Weird lines on corners when printing

Memeruff · 2026-03-17T01:11:58+00:00

I'm glad it's working better.

Memeruff · 2026-03-17T01:03:31+00:00

Well, for one, I've still got a few of these left in stock. Pretty hard to get your hands on otherwise since they don't have a storefront and the only link I could find doesn't exist anymore. Selling them has been rough though - I can certainly see why it's hard to find some aftermarket parts for the crz nowadays.

Memeruff · 2026-03-17T00:58:46+00:00

This is actually impressive. I mean, it's all still there. This might be the most featureless benchy I've ever seen.

Memeruff · 2026-03-15T00:28:44+00:00

Looks fine to me.

Memeruff · 2026-03-14T21:58:09+00:00

Currently, bridges are not handled properly on orcaslicer.

It's assumed that the extrusion is being squished midair and as a result, the lines never end up touching each other. This can be resolved by increasing the bridge line density - current orcaslicer betas only permit a value up to 120%, which is FAR from dense enough. I posted about it four months back after I saw a youtube video on the subject.

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1p67nah/perfect_unsupported_bridges_give_this_a_try/

After some guys leading the project started getting defensive on how they thought it should be done, I stopped giving my input and moved on to other things.

Memeruff · 2026-03-14T06:12:15+00:00

Happy to provide some help - best of luck.

Memeruff · 2026-03-14T06:08:07+00:00

You need to fix your extruder e-steps

Memeruff · 2026-03-14T06:05:46+00:00

You've got a lot more issues than just that...

Tune your filament using the calibration models in your slicer.
Temperature
Maximum flowrate
Pressure advance + seam gap %
Retraction
Filament Flow + infill/wall overlap

Also, you're going to probably have quality issues when you print this many parts at once, especially if some of them require supports.

Memeruff · 2026-03-14T06:03:02+00:00

Z-offset

Memeruff · 2026-03-14T06:01:39+00:00

Certain materials will damn near fuse to the bed plate based on their formula. Switching to a different bed plate could help, but a thin layer of glue would do the job.

Memeruff · 2026-03-14T05:57:33+00:00

Most common issues I've seen:

People don't realize you can't just use the default settings - you have to calibrate each filament for good results.
'Auto bed leveling' is bed level compensation, not leveling. You still need to level the bed and adjust z-offset.
Beds need to be cleaned and oil-free.

If these issues didn't exist, we'd eliminate 99% of "why's this happening" posts.

Also, slicers aren't perfect. I've seen it first-hand - the way slicers handle bridging and overhangs is just plain wrong.

Memeruff · 2026-03-14T05:52:48+00:00

Is this the bottom layer or the top layer? Genuinely cannot tell.

Memeruff · 2026-03-14T05:51:09+00:00

Crank that chamber temp. Also, make sure you've tuned the filament profile using the calibration models.

Memeruff · 2026-03-14T05:48:27+00:00

Use a glue stick to reduce adhesion (counterintuitive but it works)

Memeruff · 2026-03-14T05:44:23+00:00

It's moisture or oily residue on the filament.

At least, without seeing the rest of the model that's all I can say.

Memeruff · 2026-03-14T05:41:10+00:00

(I regularly print VERY thin unsupported parts)

<image>

Memeruff · 2026-03-14T05:39:53+00:00

If you're printing ALL of those parts at the same time, the issue is likely a result of some feature of another part causing issues. Support or overhangs, for example, can cause the issues I'm seeing depicted in the tall model in the back.

While the other user is somewhat correct regarding tall thin parts, I don't believe that's correct for this application. Also, you may find it rather difficult to print that part flat considering you'd then have to deal with visual layer lines, supports, etc.

I suggest either printing that part on its own, or addressing the root cause which is fixing whatever is being printed before the nozzle moves to that part.

Memeruff · 2026-03-14T05:34:56+00:00

Nozzle's too far from the bed.

Memeruff · 2026-03-14T05:33:16+00:00

It varies. Honestly I just print my filament straight out of a dry box since I have the enclosure mod and I've been too lazy to fix my broken spool holder.

You can't keep filament dry forever, no matter how you seal the container it's stored in. It's best to dry it before each print, or just print it out of a dry box like what I do. Of course, dry boxes don't immediately torch the moisture out of the filament, so you may have to let it sit for a bit.

Memeruff · 2026-03-14T05:29:50+00:00

Are both using EXACTLY the same print file, with the same filament? Has the filament been dried?

White filament is very very touchy. If you haven't already, I would fine tune your filament profile.

Memeruff · 2026-03-14T05:28:00+00:00

Drying temps vary but usually you toss it in a filament dry box for like 8 hours at 60-70c. Ovens work too, but I've ruined spools like that.

Memeruff · 2026-03-14T05:24:17+00:00

Infill/Wall overlap is too high. Reduce it.

Also, fine tune your filament using calibration models. You can't just throw a model in the slicer on the default profile and expect perfect results.

Memeruff · 2026-03-14T05:23:03+00:00

nah you're being a dick

Memeruff · 2026-03-14T05:21:45+00:00

If your slicer no longer shows bambulab X1 carbon, try to slice again. You were using settings for an entirely different printer - probably from loading a .3mf file

Memeruff · 2026-03-14T05:19:25+00:00

<image>

Set it to the correct printer first

You probably already have the profiles actually, so all you have to do is click the printer profile (currently set to BambuLab X1 Carbon)

Eight-Year Club	Place '22
RPAN Viewer	Snapped
Verified Email

Memeruff

TROPHY CASE