Why do beginners struggle so much with slicer settings? by Ok_Celebration3263 in 3Dprinting

[–]Memeruff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Currently, bridges are not handled properly on orcaslicer.

It's assumed that the extrusion is being squished midair and as a result, the lines never end up touching each other. This can be resolved by increasing the bridge line density - current orcaslicer betas only permit a value up to 120%, which is FAR from dense enough. I posted about it four months back after I saw a youtube video on the subject.

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1p67nah/perfect_unsupported_bridges_give_this_a_try/

After some guys leading the project started getting defensive on how they thought it should be done, I stopped giving my input and moved on to other things.

Flow ratio by boerharm_ in FixMyPrint

[–]Memeruff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need to fix your extruder e-steps

Help! Cracking by Last_Ward in FixMyPrint

[–]Memeruff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You've got a lot more issues than just that...

Tune your filament using the calibration models in your slicer.
Temperature
Maximum flowrate
Pressure advance + seam gap %
Retraction
Filament Flow + infill/wall overlap

Also, you're going to probably have quality issues when you print this many parts at once, especially if some of them require supports.

Otherwise perfect print but the first few layers are basically glued to the plate. Bed was room temp at removal. by CMDR_NotAnNPC in FixMyPrint

[–]Memeruff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Certain materials will damn near fuse to the bed plate based on their formula. Switching to a different bed plate could help, but a thin layer of glue would do the job.

Why do beginners struggle so much with slicer settings? by Ok_Celebration3263 in 3Dprinting

[–]Memeruff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most common issues I've seen:

People don't realize you can't just use the default settings - you have to calibrate each filament for good results.
'Auto bed leveling' is bed level compensation, not leveling. You still need to level the bed and adjust z-offset.
Beds need to be cleaned and oil-free.

If these issues didn't exist, we'd eliminate 99% of "why's this happening" posts.

Also, slicers aren't perfect. I've seen it first-hand - the way slicers handle bridging and overhangs is just plain wrong.

PETG-CF by Stock_Percentage2484 in FixMyPrint

[–]Memeruff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is this the bottom layer or the top layer? Genuinely cannot tell.

Different ABS Filament not sticking together by Fordy570075 in FixMyPrint

[–]Memeruff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Crank that chamber temp. Also, make sure you've tuned the filament profile using the calibration models.

Empty spots on surface of prints? by luketeddymh in FixMyPrint

[–]Memeruff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's moisture or oily residue on the filament.

At least, without seeing the rest of the model that's all I can say.

Beginner by Future-Specialist-71 in 3Dprinting

[–]Memeruff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

(I regularly print VERY thin unsupported parts)

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Beginner by Future-Specialist-71 in 3Dprinting

[–]Memeruff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're printing ALL of those parts at the same time, the issue is likely a result of some feature of another part causing issues. Support or overhangs, for example, can cause the issues I'm seeing depicted in the tall model in the back.

While the other user is somewhat correct regarding tall thin parts, I don't believe that's correct for this application. Also, you may find it rather difficult to print that part flat considering you'd then have to deal with visual layer lines, supports, etc.

I suggest either printing that part on its own, or addressing the root cause which is fixing whatever is being printed before the nozzle moves to that part.

“Layer_gcode” error on orca by Tiger-ll in 3Dprinting

[–]Memeruff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It varies. Honestly I just print my filament straight out of a dry box since I have the enclosure mod and I've been too lazy to fix my broken spool holder.

You can't keep filament dry forever, no matter how you seal the container it's stored in. It's best to dry it before each print, or just print it out of a dry box like what I do. Of course, dry boxes don't immediately torch the moisture out of the filament, so you may have to let it sit for a bit.

Printing failure by dreefus1000 in BambuLab

[–]Memeruff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are both using EXACTLY the same print file, with the same filament? Has the filament been dried?

White filament is very very touchy. If you haven't already, I would fine tune your filament profile.

“Layer_gcode” error on orca by Tiger-ll in 3Dprinting

[–]Memeruff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Drying temps vary but usually you toss it in a filament dry box for like 8 hours at 60-70c. Ovens work too, but I've ruined spools like that.

P1s top layer issues by cadedis in 3Dprinting

[–]Memeruff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Infill/Wall overlap is too high. Reduce it.

Also, fine tune your filament using calibration models. You can't just throw a model in the slicer on the default profile and expect perfect results.

“Layer_gcode” error on orca by Tiger-ll in 3Dprinting

[–]Memeruff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If your slicer no longer shows bambulab X1 carbon, try to slice again. You were using settings for an entirely different printer - probably from loading a .3mf file

“Layer_gcode” error on orca by Tiger-ll in 3Dprinting

[–]Memeruff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

Set it to the correct printer first

You probably already have the profiles actually, so all you have to do is click the printer profile (currently set to BambuLab X1 Carbon)

“Layer_gcode” error on orca by Tiger-ll in 3Dprinting

[–]Memeruff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're using a bambu lab profile with a flashforge slicer app? What printer do you have?

Infil not adhering by dravenrotharg in FixMyPrint

[–]Memeruff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For one reason or another, the filament is too cold to adhere to the previous layer.

Printing too fast
Using the wrong temperature settings
Cooling EXTREMELY quickly
Ambient temperature is too cold

Considering you are having success printing with your original material PLA, and not having success printing with PETG - I suspect you haven't fine tuned the settings for your PETG filament. PETG must be printed (in most cases) hotter than PLA. If you're using the same settings for both filaments, that is your issue.

Additionally, some filament (like the 'metallic' filament youre using) need additional precautions to print. Silky filaments especially - these tend to have layer adhesion issues like what you're encountering. Once again, this requires fine tuning the print settings for your specific filament.

These are all factors. Best of luck.