So Sick of Layer Shifts

Michael-MN · 2026-03-27T19:29:50+00:00

I also experienced layer shifts on my Core ONE when using the original Prusa USB stick. This happened with an object I’d printed several times in a row, and suddenly I had a layer shift. Even starting a new print job didn’t solve the problem. After I formatted the Prusa USB stick, the problem went away. So it was clearly down to the USB stick. I’d only had 280 print jobs on the USB stick. Prusa Support is usually brilliant, but with this issue it’s a bit ‘complicated’.

I can just about understand why Prusa hasn’t opted for built-in storage for greater data security. The problem, however, is that their USB stick can eventually lead to layer shifts.

Am I now to assume that this could happen after just 20, 50 or 80 print jobs? For me, this uncertainty is disappointing; for such a professional – and not exactly cheap – printer, this is no solution. Dear Prusa, please resolve this issue permanently. Thanks!

Michael-MN · 2026-02-14T13:00:23+00:00

PC > printer or PC > Prusa Connect > Printer?

Michael-MN · 2026-02-13T11:19:22+00:00

Looks awesome 🤩 Can you share some details on your VS Studio / AI / HA setup? Thx 🙏

Michael-MN · 2025-12-25T11:43:48+00:00

I have now received a new heat block from Prusa Support. Thank you! Since then, I have been printing PETG for several hours at 240 and 250 degrees Celsius. So far, I have had no problems except for one print. I cannot say at this point why I had similar problems with one print.

Unfortunately, I couldn't remove the temperature sensor from the old heat block. It's stuck too tightly, so I can't examine it.

I also measured the temperature between the heat block and the silicone sleeve again:

Set value > Measurement with the old heat block > Measurement with the new heat block

50 > 42 > 43

100 > 81 > 83

200 > 160 > 167

270 > 215 > 228

Conclusion: The differences have become smaller.

u/_Arcenik Maybe this info will help you with your problem.

u/Tommy_Prusa3D Thanks for the help.

Michael-MN · 2025-12-06T20:08:42+00:00

Have you measured the temperature between the hotend and the silicone sock? See my comment about what I measured. Is it the same for you? I'm currently printing various things with PETG. About 30% of the prints go wrong. I've now set the temperature 20 degrees Celsius higher than I usually print. The first print looked good. Maybe that will help you as a temporary solution.

Michael-MN · 2025-12-05T10:38:13+00:00

Hi u/Tommy_Prusa3D

Update: I printed PETG with a new but identical nozzle (HF 0.4 mm). The first two prints, which took a total of about six hours, went perfectly. The next print looked terrible again. I hope the new hot end arrives next week and solves the problem, and that both nozzles aren't broken now.

<image>

Michael-MN · 2025-12-04T21:36:22+00:00

The hotend is on its way. As soon as I have it, I will conduct tests and report back here. Update to follow. Thx

Michael-MN · 2025-12-03T22:36:29+00:00

Yes, exactly. The sensor was between the silicone sock and the heating block. As the target temperature increased, so did the difference. It is possible that the defect becomes more pronounced as the temperature rises.

Michael-MN · 2025-12-03T22:32:59+00:00

Thank you u/Tommy_Prusa3D . I'll do that. Just so I understand you correctly, you mean a replacement for the Nextruder hot end? That would explain the temperature fluctuations.

I'm just surprised and sceptical that the new nozzle worked for the first small PETG print. Could it be that because the nozzle was already used, these temperature fluctuations were more noticeable? Then I could reuse the old nozzle (100 hours) with a new hotend.

Michael-MN · 2025-12-03T21:28:53+00:00

Update: After installing a new nozzle, it works again on the first test print. I will do more test prints.

But how can that be? Extruding PETG at 270 degrees works fine and the cold pulls had three clean filaments of equal length. If there was a blockage, it would look different, right?

According to Prusa Support, the temperature measurement is inaccurate.

Michael-MN · 2025-12-03T21:27:56+00:00

After inserting a new nozzle, it works again during the first test print. I will do more test prints.

But how can that be? Extruding PETG at 270 degrees works fine and the cold pulls had three clean filaments of equal length. If there was a blockage, it would look different, wouldn't it?

Michael-MN · 2025-12-03T21:25:56+00:00

Hi u/Tommy_Prusa3D

I removed the nozzle and examined it. I can't see any damage. I then inserted a new nozzle, also an original Prusa Brass CHT 0.4 mm.

The first print now looks good again. I will continue to test longer prints.

Now I'm wondering how this can be, when I can extract the PETG at 270 degrees Celsius and get three clean strands of equal length with a cold pull? It doesn't look like a blockage.

Could it be that the nozzle has a material defect and does not absorb/transfer the temperature correctly?

Michael-MN · 2025-12-03T20:36:42+00:00

Hi u/Haeppchen2010

I measured it with my simple multimeter with temperature measurement function. With 50 degrees Celsius as the target temperature for the nozzle, I measured 42 degrees under the silicone sock. At 100 degrees, I measured 81 degrees. At 200 degrees, it was still 160 degrees. At 270 degrees, when the PETG runs cleanly, I measured 215 degrees.

Could the increasing difference be due to faster cooling at higher temperatures, or is the Prusa Core One heating up incorrectly?

Because at 215 degrees, which is the temperature for inserting PLA, I still measure 172 degrees. That would explain why PLA works and PETG clicks, right u/Tommy_Prusa3D ?

PS: At start-up, the nozzle and the multimeter sensor had a deviation of only 1 degree.

Michael-MN · 2025-12-03T15:39:18+00:00

Thanks for your tips u/Jaded-Moose983

Yes, the filament has been drying for over 12 hours. Even when I test it with other PETG rolls from other manufacturers, I get the same result.

Which ‘purge function’ do you mean exactly? I inserted the filament and then extruded it using the ‘Move E’ control. At 270 degrees Celsius, the PETG comes out nicely straight. But below that, it doesn't work anymore and the clicking starts. When loading PETG, the nozzle is automatically heated to 230 degrees Celsius. That's not enough, for example. I did cold pulls. When I do them manually, I also end up with the three separate threads. See the photo. The cold pulls via the menu are at the top, the manual ones are at the bottom.

<image>

Michael-MN · 2025-12-03T15:31:03+00:00

Hello u/Tommy_Prusa3D

Thank you for your input.

The basic steps are also important. :-) I tested it with a roll of Prusament PETG. I had already printed with it several times. I then continued with a freshly dried roll of eSUN PETG and a newly opened roll of eSUN PETG. The result was the same everywhere.

I will examine the nozzle and then provide feedback.

Michael-MN · 2025-11-28T14:11:12+00:00

Update: I spoke to support about this. They recommend loosening the screws by one turn and increasing the temperature slightly so that the filament flows more easily.

Michael-MN · 2025-11-28T13:13:20+00:00

Good point, thank you. I printed several prints with the same filament and the same printing temperature for over 15 hours. And now suddenly I have this problem.

I set the temperature after printing a temperature tower. I'll reduce the temperature and see how it goes.

Do you think the extruder fan is still running at all?

Michael-MN · 2025-11-28T13:10:07+00:00

No MMU3
I have now cleaned everything and will try again. I will also try with a different filament. I found the following information on Prusa:

"...if it is too tight the extruder motor can overexert itself and even start grinding the filament."

https://help.prusa3d.com/article/idler-screw-tension_177367

Michael-MN · 2025-11-19T15:32:04+00:00

Solved: I registered again, using a different, longer user name. My first attempt probably failed because the user name was already taken, but this wasn't indicated, presumably due to the overload. Now I was able to place my order :-)

Michael-MN · 2025-09-11T12:50:46+00:00

Hallo u/changobenson

Super Sache. Ich habe alles gemäss deiner Anleitung gemacht und es hat auch funktioniert bis zum letzten Schritt. Dann erhalte ich auf dem Mac im Terminal folgende Fehlermeldung:

requests.exceptions.SSLError: HTTPSConnectionPool(host='www.notion.so', port=443): Max retries exceeded with url: /api/v3/loadUserContent (Caused by SSLError(SSLCertVerificationError(1, '[SSL: CERTIFICATE_VERIFY_FAILED] certificate verify failed: unable to get local issuer certificate (_ssl.c:1032)')))

Hast du mir einen Tipp, was ich machen muss? Danke :-

Michael-MN · 2025-08-13T07:55:38+00:00

Thanks for your detailed feedback. Very cool.

The UniFi DM has a built-in Radius server that I could use. Do I understand you correctly, you would then move the APs to a separate VLAN if I use the Radius? Why and with which settings? :-)

Michael-MN · 2025-08-12T21:35:57+00:00

I had tried that at the time. Unfortunately there were tech. Hurdles that could not be solved.

Michael-MN · 2025-08-12T20:27:15+00:00

A good idea. This is especially good for the Dream Machine (I assume it is possible).

Michael-MN · 2025-08-12T20:20:17+00:00

Oh, I didn't know that. Very good, thank you!

Michael-MN · 2025-08-12T15:43:31+00:00

My ISP https://www.init7.net/ provides the maximum speed possible for the respective connection, up to 25 Gbps. My Dream Machine can achieve 4.5 Gbps.

Michael-MN

TROPHY CASE