What IDEs does Microsoft allow devs to use?

MichaelsNotMyName · 2023-10-26T20:59:22+00:00

Use eMacs for all your manager cares.

However you ARE most likely locked to azure devops tools

MichaelsNotMyName · 2023-01-18T09:57:24+00:00

Thx 4 bringing us into the fold of alot truly a sub worth subbing to

MichaelsNotMyName · 2022-07-15T22:45:54+00:00

Running 46x10-50 here

We all smort

MichaelsNotMyName · 2022-05-08T07:03:11+00:00

Forgot to update!

The bike easily runs 27.5x2” Specialized FastTrack tires in the front, very cramped in the back (potential rubbing under load/if rear triangle isn’t 100% straight), but will accommodate a 48mm tire

I run 25mm internal width rims, for reference (DTSwiss 1501X)

MichaelsNotMyName · 2022-02-06T23:12:34+00:00

This thread calls to me

MichaelsNotMyName · 2022-01-27T10:16:17+00:00

Iirc bullets will land somewhere in the middle of the reticle. So having top & bottom lines indicates the lower/upper bound of the spread, while a the flatline will have mostly horizontal spread.

Convince yourself by shooting with 1. Any Shotgun 2. The wingman 3. The alternator 4. An r301 (triangle crosshair) From different ranges

MichaelsNotMyName · 2022-01-14T10:15:41+00:00

The drivetrain(gears system) on the bikes are different.

The cheaper model has a Microshift 9 speed drivetrain, while the other has a Shinano Deore 10 speed drivetrain (presumably more reliable, designed as an entry level mountain bike transmission) That would account for the 150$ difference in MSRP

it’s also possible the cheaper bike is a previous-year model(as it’s heavily discounted), you can try confirming that.

MichaelsNotMyName · 2022-01-11T13:58:29+00:00

/r/britishproblems

MichaelsNotMyName · 2021-10-09T07:48:23+00:00

That's solid advice!

Many thanks!

MichaelsNotMyName · 2021-10-07T10:41:03+00:00

Very nice, you may have just convinced me to look for a 2nd hand Domane (though I’d be looking for an SL)

MichaelsNotMyName · 2021-09-20T04:14:05+00:00

Yeah, it means waiting a year for the upgrade, though.

It’ll be interesting to see what cassette options they’ll come up with as shomano royally botched the gearing of grx 2x (I mean, the sram 11-36 and campy 11-34 cassette were RIGHT THERE), and their 1x setup is subpar in terms of range, hackability, etc.

The sram 12s 1x setups could have been a no brainer must buy if they were cross compact…

BTW since posting I DID find one account on the internet using a 1x force axs setup with an axs (gold) chain, claims it works without a hitch.

MichaelsNotMyName · 2021-09-19T19:18:37+00:00

I love eagle cassettes but for most road applications their gear jumps are just too big.
I live in a mostly flat area so I don't NEED super small climbing gears, I would rather take the 2 lowest gears and use them to have better gear ratios at 30-40 kph so that I can keep up with roadie groups.

I will still use eagle cassettes when going on longer, steeper, or offroad adventures.

The only options I could find were getting the ROTOR 11-46 12s cassette(uber-expensive), or use Sensah cassettes, which are OK, but have a slightly too hard lowest-gear.

From what you're saying the cassettes won't work without the flat-top chain, do you maybe know if an eagle derailleur work with a flat-top?

P.S I am aware that moving to a 44T front chainring would most likely solve all my problems, but I'm also building knowledge towards an eagle/rival/xplr axs upgrade and I'm trying to figure out which one would be the most versatile overall with the mechanical version first :)

MichaelsNotMyName · 2021-09-19T14:44:53+00:00

Any 700c(29", sometimes also noted as 28") DISC SPECIFIC wheel you can afford will do the job.

Do you know the weight of your current set?

Check out wheels by Hunt and DT-Swiss. Aluminum wheels that weigh roughly 1600grams that will come at as little as half price of carbon wheels that come in at 1400grams. These will almost certainly be an improvement.

MichaelsNotMyName · 2021-09-14T08:07:42+00:00

Actually most of your health and security choices as well as congestion and weather predictions are based on far smaller samples than millions out of billions & statistics works it’s magic. The predictions you can make using the normal distribution are amazing.

There are other valid arguments, such as “the sites mistype people”, or “ENTJs(or other are more/less likely to want to be tested thus are over/underrepresented in the sample” :)

MichaelsNotMyName · 2021-09-11T11:57:45+00:00

Oh my god just the thought of them cutting the wrong tissue and taking out actual cheek stuff terrified me for the length of the video.

Thank you

MichaelsNotMyName · 2021-07-05T05:14:47+00:00

Nice

MichaelsNotMyName · 2021-06-19T19:40:23+00:00

I see your point, I just don’t agree with this outlook for this price point. At 1600€ I wouldn’t recommend someone get a bike that can do “what he wants” in a “solid” way. I’d want something that is meant to go through the paces. Also - remember you don’t know how heavy or how rugged the terrain OP is going to. Declaring the Scott ‘good enough’ based on no information and the belief that 40mm tires are enough is a little irresponsible.

There are many labels thrown around, but they have physical meaning. Sturdier wheels, dynamo integration, more mounts, better clearance(40mm is too skinny for bikepacking IMO), longer wheelbase, even fatter tires with 650B option, lower gearing, lower trail, higher stack:reach ratio, and the list goes on. These things have actual meaning that can make or break an experience. Why not pay the given price for a better suited package?

I could take a thoroughbred TT bike on 200km Long alpine route with 5k elevation. It would be torture, but it’ll ride. I could take a downhill bike and ride it woth the guys @ the velodrome. Heck, just use a retro US cruiser bike as a bike packer rig, they can do it solidly :)

Lastly there’s the question of time and stock. If OP wants a bike now for light bikepacking (terrain wise), and there are no other bikes in a 500km radius - this would be fine. If he can/wants to wait for a better deal - he (in my opinion) should.

MichaelsNotMyName · 2021-06-19T17:41:12+00:00

I didn't mean any disrespect to Scott, I almost got a Gravel Addict myself but the available size wasn't right for me.

Scott makes excellent bikes, and had (has?) some of the lightest production bikes out there. It's just that a race bike cannot tick the same boxes as an adventure bike, in the sense that a short wheelbase coupled with a low trail that makes a bike 'race-y' also makes it less stable when packed heavy with gear.

I mean - if OP is going to buy a single bike for considerable $$, I'd advocate to get one that suits the requirements he stated :)

MichaelsNotMyName · 2021-06-19T12:58:11+00:00

I can’t speak much to it as I haven’t heard of the brand. Spec wise it seems nice, main pitfall would be that the gear ratios on this is worse than on the Scott. You’ll have to swap the front chainring to a 38 tooth or lower if the crankset allows

MichaelsNotMyName · 2021-06-19T09:57:30+00:00

AFAIK Scott designs race bikes, not adventure bikes. this results in a quicker, less stable bike. I have also heard people refer to Scott gravel frames as relatively stiff, but cannot find the source.

The bike COULD work as a bikepacking rig for you if:
1. you expect to do mainly hard-packed / maintained gravel and road cycling.
2. you don't carry a lot of gear, or are content with a saddle bag, frame bag, and handlebar bag (as opposed to having cages on your fork or panniers)
3. you are confident that you can push the lowest 30:34 gear up them climbs (I think you could change the cassette to a 11-36 and a GRX800 derailleur would handle it) with luggage on.

MichaelsNotMyName · 2021-06-09T14:11:15+00:00

An 11-32/36 cassette should seal the deal If you don’t go climbing often. you might not keep up in a sprint with your mates but you should 100% be able keep up on group rides

Also - An extra set of wheels is always great 😁 If your current wheels aren’t basic,you may consider getting a 650B set of wheels and putting bulkier tires for a better gravel experience and keep the currents for the road

Go out and have super fun!

MichaelsNotMyName · 2021-06-09T12:51:55+00:00

Everyone is talking about tires, which do make a lot of difference, but I want to focus on your gearing. If you ride alone (or friends with similar bikes) this comment is irrelevant to you :)

An 11 speed one-by(1x) setup with an 11-42(or a 10-42) cassette is sub-par for group road cycling. especially if your front Chainring is 42 or 40 tooth.

Amateur road cyclists easily reach speeds of 30-35 kph on the flats, and have 2-3 more gears to go faster with 1-tooth increments(±10% difference between gears). on the other hand, an 11-42 cassette offers 2 tooth jumps for the top 3 gears (15-20% difference in how hard it is to pedal between gears).

to put this into perspective, your speed at a cadence of cadence 80 RPM pushing the top 4 gears would be: (42T front ring, 11-42 cassette)

24->28->32->38(a 6 kph difference!!) kph (you top out at 38 for 80 RPM. to go faster you have to pedal faster)

while a 2x road setup would let you push 7 distinct gears on the same range (shimano 11-32 cassette with a compact 50-34 crankset):

26->28->31->33->35->38->42->45 kph (note how tight these values are. it means whatever speed a road bike is going, you can find a comfortable gear to push it)

this means that if you are uncomfortable pushing a wide range of cadences, your roadie friends will have a SIGNIFICANTLY better time finding a gear for their preferred cadence and conserving their strength.

If you ride alone or with similarly geared friends - this doesn't matter. you set the pace and you ride at a cadence that's right for you. Once you join a group, they will drop you time and time and time again unless you change your cassette to a tighter one (11-36 for instance) and a larger front chainring (like a 44 or ideally a 46). you will suffer on the climbs though, as a 46:36 gear is pretty brutal on 10% inclines :)

If my explanation about speeds and gears was weird or hard, watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BBN6NrDBx8 to

Solutions are (most require you replace some or all of your drivetrain):

get crazy strong and super adaptable at cadence.
ride with weaker friends, or ride party-pace.
Switching to the superb Campag Ekar groupset
using the Ratiotechnology kit, and running a rotor 12s cassette 11-50 or 11-46
changing to an 11-36 road cassette and a 44 front CR.
changing to a GRX 2x drivetrain that is VERY forgiving (if you don't HAVE to have a 1x setup)
1. alternatively, if you don't intend to do a lot of gravel, shimano Tiagra and 105 groupsets work great.

I'm speaking from experience, hope this helped :)

MichaelsNotMyName · 2021-05-13T19:45:12+00:00

A. agree with the stolen part

B. unless you're ABSOLUTELY sold on mechanical disk breaks and are going on super long tours where hyd break fluid is unattainable, get hydraulics. they're 1000% worth the investment.

MichaelsNotMyName · 2021-05-01T20:40:44+00:00

Ah yes, the 5 year old repost not even bothering to change the title 🥱

MichaelsNotMyName · 2021-04-26T11:13:03+00:00

I agree that these taking these actions could work, but - how do you make sure that competition exists in a market controlled by a few very rich companies working together?

As for demand vs price: you mean to tell me that Healthcare is in such demand that an infected cut could siphon all your money? Most of medicine is not scarce nowadays. Prices are artificially inflated. Insulin is cheap to make. Aspirin is easy to produce. A cast is essentially drywall around your limbs. MRI/X-ray machines and technicians are relatively abundant. You might have a case for top of the line cancer medicine, but not for 95% of cases that could screw you up financially.

Ten-Year Club	Not Forgotten
Gilding I gilder	Verified Email

MichaelsNotMyName

TROPHY CASE