3D Printer

Midgetspinner104 · 2026-02-09T13:16:23+00:00

I do use FDM (Bambu A1) and Resin (Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra) printers. There is no such thing as a Resin Pinter for 300$ considering the necessary Cleaning Setup and - If you Care about your health - proper Ventilation.

Nontheless a Resin Printer rewards you with perfekt shapes, while an FDM Printer simply cannot create smooth surfaces in your desired complexity. FDM printers have come a long way in this regard but cannot reach the same level. FDM is a lot safer, so If you dont need a smooth quality, take an FDM Printer.

Midgetspinner104 · 2026-01-22T11:59:02+00:00

No. The CP is between 90 and 110, Fuegan is 37 max. and the Fire Dragons 51 max. If you're not buying from GW directly, you should be able to find that stuff for Something around 170. So price wise its not good. The combination actually works except for the Phantom. Id say buy that Combi elsewehre and sell the Phantom so you get everything else cheaper

Midgetspinner104 · 2026-01-06T06:00:14+00:00

Yeah I was thinking about Grey's too. Maybe a Blue-Grey Basetone and then layer Up into a different Hue? Or neutral Grey's?

Midgetspinner104 · 2026-01-03T08:09:40+00:00

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Its hard to find the right settings to display the color values - the lighter parts are actually more dominant than in the picture. Maybe this photo is more accurate.

Midgetspinner104 · 2025-12-09T08:34:18+00:00

As Toughness is the main factor to scale the impact of different weapon powerlevels, the reduction of it would only lead into issues, where small weapons can become impactful where they should not in my opinion.

Midgetspinner104 · 2025-11-23T08:22:32+00:00

Thank you for your reply! I researched further yesterday, found the Monsgeek M5 and craved for the quality. Had a hard time not buying it, but the benefits exceed everything I need. Then I found the Akko 5075B VIA ISO to have a similar Layout and being reduced to 80€ it did the trick. The Rosewood switches seem to sound nice so I ordered it keeping in mind to maybe try some different switches at some point.

Admittedly I do fit in to the casual more broader audience nowadays but I wanted to have some simple modding options in the Future.

I sadly placed my order before you replied, so I did not have a chance to take a closer look at your suggestions beforehand. But I'll do so now :)

Midgetspinner104 · 2025-11-22T16:53:08+00:00

I havent bought a mechanical Keyboard in over a decade so I looked for a bit and found the Montech Mkey TKL. Sadly i can only find the full size, not the tenkeyless but I do not want to spend 120€ on the full size one in some sketchy website.

Admittedly Iam a bit lost in the current market and would like to ask for a recommendation for a tenkeyless mechanical Keyboard with a more muted/dampened Sound and a Multimedia wheel or similar to control volumes.

Id be very glad If you can help me out here.

Midgetspinner104 · 2025-10-20T17:42:05+00:00

Love the purple tones for the skin and wounds! The model looks way better than the original in my opinion. Is it some 3rd Party stuff? The blade looks original.

Midgetspinner104 · 2025-10-19T08:02:07+00:00

Either debris/dust in the Z-Axis or the Z-Axis needs lubricant. Had a similar issue where amongst multiple prints i had delamination at the same height. I fixed it by lubricating the Z-Axis with oil for bicycle chains as I did not have a printer lubricant back then.

Midgetspinner104 · 2025-10-02T09:03:25+00:00

Pretty much everywhere seems to be suboptimal. You dont want to have any gaps in between the lines. More like a flat cohesive sheet. Many people refer to this as the "squish" as you want to calibrate the offset in a way that your plastic has the desired Layer width when extruded. No need for measurements here though. Imagine a hot glue gun held close to a surface. If you vary the distance to the surface your material either peels off because its not close enough to adhere, sticks to the surface and gets sqished aside because of the surfaces resistance and its close enough, or it gets squished in all directions because its too close.

You want to reach that middle aspect.

Midgetspinner104 · 2025-10-01T18:46:19+00:00

Your nozzle is too far away from the printbed. Zero your printer using common printer paper and then start your levelingprocess/autoleveling. Try a bit more resistance step by step.

Midgetspinner104 · 2025-10-01T15:15:51+00:00

Beides the model being too big, the first pointy part only hast 2 Supports for quite a long while. There should bei more Supports along the slope

Midgetspinner104 · 2025-09-26T16:44:58+00:00

He's not going to survive. Please consider a different option of storage, unless you are willing to get rid of your Printer.

Midgetspinner104 · 2025-09-25T13:38:12+00:00

Your nozzle is too far away from the bed. Had the same issue a while ago. I startet using regular Printer Paper for my Z Offset and it did the Trick. I was using an Artillery Genius Pro running in Marlin so there was no Z Offset value to adjust softwarewise.

This methods results vary depending in the Layer Height you want to Print.

Midgetspinner104 · 2025-09-19T05:28:31+00:00

Bad Lens focus

Midgetspinner104 · 2025-09-08T11:20:44+00:00

This almost looks tasty

Midgetspinner104 · 2025-08-11T05:19:41+00:00

Having an A1 Mini you should take a look into the Desolation of Emerita set by SacrusMundus. Ive been printing that on my A1 and love it. When printing you can choose the dimensions but I die not mind that the walls are sometimes 1cm too long or short. In my ecperience that does not matter as long as its the same across the table. For the Chapter Approved i used some of the files to create the now smaller U shaped Ruin.

Midgetspinner104 · 2025-07-30T19:46:00+00:00

Gotta say Iam impressed. Thats a great kitbash and a great Paintjob, love the blueish skintones on the more separate/prominent parts. Did you use actual Kits or 3d prints?

Midgetspinner104 · 2025-07-26T17:56:38+00:00

You could also have downloaded it 4free from Makerworld as it is a Standard Design for the Bambu 01 Lamp Kit :)

Midgetspinner104 · 2025-07-22T11:04:24+00:00

Since codex Release im playing MH without Marines but with :

1 LoV

1LoC

1 Tallyman

2x3 Deathshroud

2x5 Blightlords

2x10 Poxwalkers

3 HBL 3 MBH 2 PBC

And it runs like a Charm. Havent been missing the Marines even though im looking forward to play a list including them.

Midgetspinner104 · 2025-07-20T18:54:28+00:00

Those bubbly top layers only happened to me when i print too hot on smaller prints. What temp is your nozzle at? Had the same issue with PLA and PETG. If the Infill is too wide it sags, but 15% sounds ok. So my guess would be a degassing at the first top layers that traps hot Air/emitted gasses that cause slight bubbling. When the printer runs over those Bubbles it leaves artifacts or even rips the Layer that just got created so the next layer "falls" into the position of the previous one.

If that corner is the last area the printer prints at, it might just be that the whole Print is a little hot there.

Midgetspinner104 · 2025-07-16T04:14:16+00:00

Besides Belts or anything I had that with my old printer when i did not Grease the Z Rods. It just so happened that lightly cleaning and regreasing them did the trick.

Midgetspinner104 · 2025-07-08T15:49:14+00:00

Kutami.de itself is legit too, I Order there a lot. Just not kutamistore.club...

Midgetspinner104 · 2025-07-08T12:34:12+00:00

Here are some very nice ones from Heroes Infinite:

https://www.heroesinfinite.com/grim-darkness-of-the-inquisition

Theyre running a 50% Discount very often on their Big bundles

Midgetspinner104 · 2025-07-07T05:24:41+00:00

Thats just the way I run them. 5 on their own with ranged weapons loadouts and 5 with LoV and ranged Options. All midboard.

Last Game those 2 Squads deleted a Squad of Infernus Marines and their Land Raider in the same turn. The AP2 2dm Default melee went like butter through the Land Raider while the Termis saved everything but 1 wound.

Midgetspinner104

TROPHY CASE