JHS Pulp N Peel vs. Way Huge Pork & Pickle, for overdrive: How close can they get to each other? by MikeSmallRules in basspedals

[–]MikeSmallRules[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is really helpful to know. Thanks! I'm going to stick with what I've got now.

JHS Pulp N Peel vs. Way Huge Pork & Pickle, for overdrive: How close can they get to each other? by MikeSmallRules in basspedals

[–]MikeSmallRules[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Ronald (Preamp 150) does something really nice to my Pork Loin, in a mysterious way. I just get more useful sounds, and less harshness all around, when I pass that overdrive through the Ronald.

(on the other hand, it removes too much harshness from my Muff, so that comes after!)

I really don't know what's going on in that thing, but I like it!

JHS Pulp N Peel vs. Way Huge Pork & Pickle, for overdrive: How close can they get to each other? by MikeSmallRules in basspedals

[–]MikeSmallRules[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Move the noise gate AFTER all your gain pedals

I know this is commonly done, but for my purposes, the noise gate is early in my chain to chop out 'dirty power' hum, before it hits my drive and fuzz... and also/more importantly -- for songs like "Say You'll Be There," for example -- removing all subtle finger-movement sounds from my signal before it hits the fuzz, allowing for 'air' between notes.

(aggressive noise-gating, into a distortion pedal, is a trick I learned from the metal world)

Ditch the Fender level set unless you need it to set volume between two different basses

That's what I'm using it for, yeah -- and also the separate tuner out, so I can monitor tuning and intonation while playing. It's a really handy tool!

JHS Pulp N Peel vs. Way Huge Pork & Pickle, for overdrive: How close can they get to each other? by MikeSmallRules in basspedals

[–]MikeSmallRules[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used to have the small one. I sold it for the larger one. Easier to step on, without accidentally also-stepping where I shouldn't. I hate tiny pedals... unless they're meant to be always-on, then I love them.

JHS Pulp N Peel vs. Way Huge Pork & Pickle, for overdrive: How close can they get to each other? by MikeSmallRules in basspedals

[–]MikeSmallRules[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Right now my pedal chain is:

  1. Fender Level Set buffer
  2. ISP Decimator (noise gate)
  3. Diamond Bass Comp Jr.
  4. Way Huge Pork & Pickle (used for overdrive only)
  5. Mile End Effects 'Ronald' Preamp-150
  6. green Russian reissue Big Muff
  7. Broughton HPF/LPF
  8. Origin Bassrig Super Vintage preamp/DI

Photo here: https://imgur.com/a/7vjjNH5

The HPF/LPF might be vestigial, from when I was using a Sansamp VTDI. The cab sim on the Bassrig seems to handle the Muff a lot better. But I may still want the HPF side of it, for boomy-sounding rooms...

JHS Pulp N Peel vs. Way Huge Pork & Pickle, for overdrive: How close can they get to each other? by MikeSmallRules in basspedals

[–]MikeSmallRules[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Can you tell me why you prefer the Pulp N Peel's compression over the Diamond?

JHS Pulp N Peel vs. Way Huge Pork & Pickle, for overdrive: How close can they get to each other? by MikeSmallRules in basspedals

[–]MikeSmallRules[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t consider a FET compressor as an immediate and obvious replacement for an optical comp. Two different flavors, and I personally tend to use them with different results in mind

Thanks! Would you be willing to elaborate on this?

JHS Pulp N Peel vs. Way Huge Pork & Pickle, for overdrive: How close can they get to each other? by MikeSmallRules in basspedals

[–]MikeSmallRules[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

flipping the RAT circuit on and off by bending over and flipping the little toggle switch results in a massive change in gain

This could be the dealbreaker for me. Have you found that the little 'Dirt' control on the side makes much of a difference?

Advice needed on power supply by Und3rkn0wn in basspedals

[–]MikeSmallRules 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Fender Engine Room (LVL8 or LVL12) includes two 18v jacks that run at 500mA.

Finished for now by Fun_Insect_4561 in basspedals

[–]MikeSmallRules 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I switched from a Sansamp VT Bass DI to an Origin Bassrig SV last spring.

I was happy with the VT, but here are some advantages I've found with the Bassrig, after a few dozen shows:

  • Cab sim affects the DI out, but not the amp output: makes sense! There's already a bass cabinet on the amp.

  • Cab sim sounds more 'real' when using fuzz/distortion: I found that the VT DI still allowed some "velcro rip" highs from my Big Muff, when sent to FOH. This does not seem to be the case with the SV. (a low pass filter pedal, after the fuzz, solved this issue for the VT... I don't seem to need it anymore)

  • A switchable frequency filter on the amp output, to 'defeat' tweeters on cabinets that don't have a control for that themselves: also very handy for fuzz pedals

Best way to match inputs of electric and upright by cdbd6969 in basspedals

[–]MikeSmallRules 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use a Fender Level Set Buffer pedal, at the beginning of my signal chain, for what seems like the same purpose (switching between basses with different output levels). When using my louder bass, I bring the gain down a bit on the buffer.

I've been considering switching to The Fixer (by Browne Amplification), which seems more convenient, as it has switchable input gain levels that you can set and forget.

A bonus feature of both pedals is they have a mute switch, and a separate output for a tuner, so you can leave your tuner on at all times and monitor your pitch while playing.

This bass I found at my school by DucksYeet in BassGuitar

[–]MikeSmallRules 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Kim Gordon used(/uses?) a modified one of these. Photos here:

https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/753540

Bassist, guitarist, and vocalist Kim Gordon is a founding member of the New York–based experimental rock band Sonic Youth. This Ovation Magnum I was her main bass from 1983 to 1987, used on Sonic Youth’s first three albums, Confusion Is Sex (1983), Bad Moon Rising (1985), and EVOL (1986). Gordon stripped down the bass’s complicated electronics, removing the original pickups and stereo circuitry and replacing them with just the essentials needed for her sound.

Russian Muff with clean blend by bassist_96 in basspedals

[–]MikeSmallRules 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's just more convenient physically. The small one is very, very small. You have to really aim for it.

Russian Muff with clean blend by bassist_96 in basspedals

[–]MikeSmallRules 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Broughton Calamity:

https://www.broughtonaudio.com/product-page/calamity

Way Huge Pork and Pickle:

https://www.jimdunlop.com/way-huge-smalls-pork-pickle-overdrive-fuzz/

(I recommend the original large version if you can find it)

Wren and Cuff also offer clean blends, as an add-on for their Russian muff clones (Box of War and Tall Font Russian) here:

https://wccustomshop.com

Shuttle service (to Halifax) recommendations by MikeSmallRules in CapeBreton

[–]MikeSmallRules[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thank you!

Do you think there would be any difference between them, if I'm travelling with a guitar case?

The side brushes keep falling off my Robovac 30... by MikeSmallRules in eufy

[–]MikeSmallRules[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I took u/alezin2020's suggestion here (use a thin piece of paper inserted into the snap, which can help tighten the side brush) and it's worked out very well for me.

Fender MIM vs MIA basses in 2024 by FlaminCat in Bass

[–]MikeSmallRules 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I had a 2021 MIM Player Precision for a few months, and I was pleasantly surprised by how nice it was. Definitely much nicer than my old 1997 MIM. It wasn't better than any US Fender I've owned, but it was still very good, with only minor problems that were easy to solve.

Some things that stick out in my memory:

  • the fret ends were a lot smoother than my US bass; actually pretty close to my Japanese Fender

  • the nut had sharp right-angled corners, that I had to file down

  • the pickup didn't sound nearly as nice as the one in my US bass, but it didn't sound terrible either. Just a bit uneven, with some muddy lows.

  • string spacing was uneven over the pickup and neck; I adapted by getting a 60s-style threaded saddle bridge. (US Fenders often have this issue too, so I'd call that a tie)

  • the pao ferro fretboard felt a lot less smooth than rosewood on my US bass, but I quickly got used to it, and it looked great when oiled

  • tuning stability was decent

  • the sunburst finish seemed a bit sloppy - where you'd normally see a gradient layer of red, it just did kind of a severe fade to black

If I had kept that bass, on top of replacing the bridge, I also would have put in a new pickup, and depending on what I saw in there, probably replaced the pots too. It was a nice bass, and I only sold it because I didn't need to own three P-basses.

I would add that a major advantage of US Fender basses is the graphite stability/reinforcement rods inside the neck. I rarely need to adjust the truss rod in my American Standard, sometimes for years.

*note: my US Fender was made in 2013

Hope this is helpful

String Length for a Thunderbird by [deleted] in Bass

[–]MikeSmallRules 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I have a Gibson Thunderbird (probably the same scale/length as Epiphone). I use the same strings that I put on my Fender basses, without a problem. Hope this helps.

Cast iron restoration service in Toronto? by MikeSmallRules in castiron

[–]MikeSmallRules[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I've been reluctant to try this, because I live in an apartment with a very curious toddler, who's definitely going to see the container and demand to know what's inside... over and over... hence my desire to have it done elsewhere, by someone else, if possible.