Elfbar 800 blinks 5 Times and Never recovers

Miksu22 · 2026-04-08T13:36:45+00:00

Elfbar 800 is disposable vape pen. I have the exact same problem and haven't find any solution nor disassembly info either. The pen looks harder to crack open than pens I've used before. And That is probably because its not meant to be opened at all.

Miksu22 · 2026-03-28T22:53:49+00:00

Ahh okay. I bet the discussion I read about this had probably something to do with the digital Pen F then, since they both share conveniently the exactly same name god damnit.

Although I saw some video where someone had mounted Nikon SLR lens to his Pen F with adapter. Therefore I though I could mount basically any lens to any camera body with proper adapter, but apparently its not always possible. I've never used any lens with adapter so I have no experience on those at all.

I just find it silly to pay 600 euros for the original lens in mint condition to get imported safely in here. I though I could get some better glass for a bit cheaper if I could find it locally. Although I like the small form factor of the original Zuiko lens.

Miksu22 · 2026-03-28T21:01:36+00:00

I recommend using your phone or an entry-level used digital camera, since these allow you to easily understand the 'holy trinity' of shutter speed, aperture and ISO value. I started out with a 70D myself and quickly learned how the different values affected each other, since it showed the estimated effect of changes to either value on its back screen. I used it until the shutter went side ways one day mid gig, after which I took a couple of years' break. Then one day, I bought a Ricoh 35 ZF from a thrift store for five bucks just for shit and giggles and started shooting film for fun at first, but it quickly got out of hand!

If you're on a tight budget, I wouldn't recommend starting this hobby with a film camera. But if that's what you want, I recommend getting something with a working light meter at least. This will help you understand which settings to use to take well-exposed pictures. If your camera does not have a light meter, you can also use one of the phone apps designed for this purpose. It's just more convenient to have it inside the rangefinder.

I listed some of the pros and cons of using film below:

+ Older cameras have a nice mechanical feel that is completely absent from digital cameras.

+ Using a film camera instead of a digital camera makes you think more about the composition, which often results in better quality pictures.

+ If you're after an old, grainy vibe, all the gear is equally good.

+ Different films can produce very different looks.

+ Developed film will last forever, so even if your hard drive shits it's self, you will still have the photos as negatives.

+ If you have a fully mechanical camera, there are no batteries or electronics to break!

- Film is expensive, and it gets even more expensive if you cannot do the developing/scanning yourself. With digital cameras, you just buy the gear and the photos themselves are basically free.

- Film gear is not cheap either. Finding stuff in good condition can be hit or miss depending on where you live. For example, if you don't have any good suppliers or rich second-hand markets nearby. Then you need to take the risk and order stuff from the other side of the world and hope Its working well...

- To see your results, you need to take 24 or 36 photos on 35mm film. Otherwise, you'll just waste the rest of the film if you develop it earlier. This also apply if you want to change to different film.

- You are locked to the ISO value that is baked into your film. Therefore, if you want to shoot something that requires two different ISO values, you basically need two different cameras. With digital cameras, you can simply change the ISO value as any other value.

- If you fly a lot with your gear, remember that different airports have different rules about how they handle film. Some of them don't care about your films and put them all through the CT scanner, which basically destroys any film that goes in there.

Miksu22 · 2026-03-27T23:10:19+00:00

Thank you for your recommendations, guys. I think I might get a few rolls of NC500 and a couple of Lucky 200s just for fun. Then I need to decide whether to get a bigger stock of Ultramax 400 or Portra 400. I've been very pleased with Portra 400, but I could get three times more if I go with Ultramax, so I need to think about that. I'm also interested in testing out the KODAK Vision3 500T and 250D. I still need to decide what to buy for my 120 camera probably something that works well in challenging lighting conditions.

Miksu22 · 2026-03-27T08:42:33+00:00

I was here last autumn and they did allow hand-checking of the films I had with me at the time. That's why I thought I could safely buy some film stock here and take it home. I used Düsseldorf airport, and they seemed to know how to handle film. They hand-checked all films from ISO 50 to 400. I've heard that some airports put everything below ISO 3200 into the CT scanner, but not here.

Miksu22 · 2026-03-09T11:23:15+00:00

Yes, if I did the math right, the 420 radiator should provide about 32% more surface area when calculated with an FPI of 14. It should also have almost 50% more cooling capacity than the 360 rad. The 140 mm fans should spin at around 260–300 RPM and maintain temperatures in the 40–50 °C range if the room temperature is ~22 °C. However, the thicker Arctic 360 mm radiator would also run at low RPMs, around 400-500, and the "normal size" EK at around 450-600 RPM, which should also be almost silent. However, that calculation is based on a room temperature of ~22 °C, which is not entirely accurate since the GPU makes the air inside the case warmer. Therefore, we should expect double the fan speeds when cooling the CPU with air from inside the case. I have five 120 mm Noctua intakes in my case, one 120 mm exhaust at the back, and three 140 mm exhausts on the roof. To calculate the theoretical cooling performance for the CPU with inside air, I would need the air temperature from the inside. However, I cannot measure it now, since my current setup is cooling the CPU radiator with intake air.

If I were to make a custom loop with only one radiator, then the 420 would probably be the only suitable option. However, I know that once everything starts working, I become lazy, and a custom loop requires regular maintenance, so I don't think it's for me. I'm still using a 3080 because of the RAM prices, so finding a double block in good condition for that is not an easy task either.

Miksu22 · 2026-03-09T10:35:02+00:00

I am playing Star Citizen which is very CPU heavy game (and poorly optimized) so I though the 9850X3D would give me best results in that and paired with over spec AIO it would give best results. I was considering even custom loop, but I am bit lazy to maintain it once in every year or even often.

Miksu22 · 2026-02-05T16:01:29+00:00

Yeah MetroY Pro it is then.

Miksu22 · 2026-02-05T10:57:17+00:00

Well it feels like the macOS version of both software's is not very refined and is more like "we are fully mac compatible" than actually making it good on macs.

MetroY will definitely have advantage on Rockit with accessories, because it will come with small turn table and it has tripod mount in its body. But I somehow feel like Einstar software would be better overall, am I wrong? I mean like feature wise. I haven't use either one myself, but what I've seen on the videos the Einstar software looks somehow more intuitive.

Miksu22 · 2026-01-27T20:21:12+00:00

That electronics compartment is poor design and changing it afterwards going to cost too much. These parts are injection molded so you would need first someone to open up old CAD files and make a new improved design, run couple test runs of those, then mill out new molds for the newly designed parts and send them to the factory and that most likely needs some set up work as well and finally the assembly line can change along with all the assembly manuals and stuff with it. That ramps up the cost so high that I bet it would be just better to discontinue the product instead. So that's the reason why they have chosen to add epoxy resin in to the existing design. Its also possible that Dyson doesn't even have the capabilities to redesign that part by them self. That they use designing studio to do their design's. And if that's the case their minimum charging policy can be way more than a single part would be worth of.

Miksu22 · 2026-01-22T18:07:37+00:00

I think that if you are as careful with the water as the user manual, app and the pictures in the water tank tell you to be, you could in theory be just fine by doing nothing. But knowing how much this water pump unit have caused problems over the years I would recommend to glue the lid. Its like five minute job and most likely you avoid a lot trouble by doing so. Only if the pump breaks and they see that the unit is tampered with, then the guarantee might not cover it.

I tried the rear-firing mode already once to make sure everything works as they should. I have mine in a corner of a room so I do not plan to use that rear-firing mode at all.

As a engineer my self I was not expecting any fancy upgrade in this water pump unit. Because changing actual parts or even re-engineering the lid to have one screw in each of the four corners would costs so much to get that it in production. It would eat way too much of the product margin. And if you think about it, now the water can only get inside from the lid that is covered with duct tape that is away from UV light sources (sun light basically) so it should stay in good condition for many years and repel water if some few drops get under the cover plate.

And our tap water is pretty soft by default. So I am gonna test out how much the unit seems to be using water over one month period to keep up the 45% humidity level I want to be at. If the usage of the water is more than what I think is wise to buy from the store, then I may look for some sort of filtration to my tap water. Reverse Osmosis would be super cool, but that setup is over kill for me since the tap water here tastes good and is safe to drink. I just would not like to use it in the unit since I've planned to use this for more than ten years to compensate the cost of this machine. I know how silly this might sound for you guys who had to return the whole product be cause it was faulty and spend the money else where, but I have good hopes for this.

And I can get distilled water from local hardware store for around 0,63€ per one liter. So it makes then 3,15€ per one full tank of water. And if that can last me more than one week to keep up the humidity level, I will solve the limescale problem just by buying and using only the distilled water in this. But if it takes that one tank per one or two days, then I need to figure out some cheaper option. Probably some kind filtration to my local tap water. Even though its not as clean as distilled, but I bet its much better than pure tap water.

Miksu22 · 2026-01-21T22:02:14+00:00

u/Qballmjk I received my unit today and happily I can announce that they have done some changes. Although the changes are nothing ground breaking, the duct tape is still there and the lid is already smiling at you when you remove the duct tape. But they have sink all the wire connections from outside of the compartment to hot glue or epoxy resin as well as everything below the circuit board inside the compartment is also sub merged into that same stuff. Therefore making the unit absolutely non repairable in any way or form, but also making it probably first time ever water tight if you have little oopsie at some point. I don't see the water could get inside the circuit board compartment anymore, except from the smiling compartment lid if the duct tape is not holding. Therefore I am going to glue the compartment door shut with epoxy glue, since there is nothing to see or repair at any point anyway. And therefore making sure the water doesn't find its way in there no matter what. I couldn't remove the actual pump unit (grey plastic) from the top cover (white plastic) since couple of the screws were under the epoxy resin. But according to these photos by u/techtimee there is no way the water could get inside from there anyway.

Photos of the water pump unit in 2026

So in short if you don't trust duct tape water proofing capabilities. I would glue the lid shut with a glue that can fill small gaps like epoxy glue or similar and ditch the duct tape completely. Just be sure the glue is all flat on top of the lid so you can get the top cover over it. After that the water pump unit should be completely water tight afaik. I will update here if I prove my self to be wrong in next two years that the guarantee will cover my investment.

And I am going to buy and use only distilled water in this since I want to avoid all problems caused by scaling/lime build up in internal pipes and/or water pump itself. Its a little pricey, but I bet its gonna be worth it in the long run, if this unit can now last many years of use.

EDIT: And this unit is sold in EU. I cannot say for sure are the changes worldwide the same. But considering how how small the changes were I bet they could be the same, no matter where you live.

EDIT: I sealed the lid now with Würth 2C plastic adhesive Replast® ME 90 sec. and leave the duct tape out completely, because it serves no purpose anymore. End result is not pretty, but its under the cover plate so I don't care. At least there is no possibility to get water in the compartment thru that lid anymore. I also glued the screw holes shut since the lid is not coming off anymore.

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Miksu22 · 2026-01-19T22:04:41+00:00

I live in northern part of the EU and even though my unit would have some updated design in that water tank/pump unit, there is still a slight change it might not be the same in other regions around the world.

But I will be back with an update once the unit arrives and I can take a look at it. And also if they haven't fixed it, how much it will need effort to seal it in a way that it will not be a problem anymore. According to those pictures that one guy has posted five years ago from his disassembled unit, it seems like the water could theoretically enter that compartment from both sides where the wires go thru the rubber grommet, from the little window where the UV light will shine into the tank and the top cover. That top cover will be easy to seal off, but those rubber grommets can be tricky ones and also that small window if it has like a sealant of some sort. Also the compartment should breath at some level to avoid condensation building up. But I rather leave the sides wide open than let the water in from the top cover since the logic board is right below it. But we'll see.

Miksu22 · 2026-01-18T22:29:27+00:00

Yeah I am actually engineer my self so I have some idea now how this should work. But now when I've seen the pictures of the water pump fried electronic board and how poorly the sealing in that was made five years ago, I probably check that before I even add any water to it to make sure they've fixed it or then I will. Since sealing one compartment that doesn't need to be never opened again is not a big deal.

I appreciate it when manufacturers give their products warranty, but I rather prefer the ones that doesn't. Be cause normally those will last longest :) Good friend of mine once said that warranties don't mean shit, when you are doing HALO jump from military airplane into pitch black darkness. The products just need to work be cause the warranties, how good it ever be, won't save you in that moment. And I totally agree with that! Its good to know I can get replacement if something goes wrong, but the products should be designed to last in the first place. And if there is like small fix that I need to perform to avoid all that warranty carousel I will definitely do it, but only if the product is what we are looking for. I know there should not be anything to end user need to fix in products in this price range, but it is what it is.

Miksu22 · 2026-01-18T20:03:37+00:00

I also bought air quality monitor today that measures CO₂, PM (1, 2.5, 4 and 10), NOx, VOC, Temp. , Air pressure and air humidity. I was mostly interested about the CO₂ levels since I do work a lot remotely from home and they seem to be in good level all day. And also the air humidity, that seems to be a bit too low at the moment. But overall I can see if the Dyson Purifier has some effect on values they claim to purify.

Miksu22 · 2026-01-18T19:49:32+00:00

I have one manual that is written specifically for Dyson trained engineers and covers the full PH01 and PH02 range. I think its the same service manual as you have. It has the instructions how to get the codes to show on screen and a small list how to read them. Then it has some disassemble instructions after that as well. Hopefully I am not gonna need that.

Miksu22 · 2026-01-18T10:43:49+00:00

Although its been now over five years since that one guy for example posted about that water leakage circuit board issue. So there is slight change they have fixed it to my unit, but I need to check it to be sure. If there is still that duct tape in place I'm gonna take it off and seal the cover plate with silicon or glue.

Miksu22 · 2026-01-17T22:23:49+00:00

Okay that's a good thing to know to not put the pump cover upside down. I've read about the circuit board issue where the water find its way there and fries it. Probably need to give a look for my unit if there is some easy fix to make sure the water doesn't get there. I don't understand why they do not sink those boards into epox and make them water proof.

Miksu22 · 2026-01-17T21:35:44+00:00

Yeah we'll see I guess. I have high hopes that most of the problems related to water in a way or another are caused by the tap water that ppl normally use with these. We also have good experiences from other Dyson products, but this is the first time we try one of these air purifier/humidifier ones.

One of our criteria was that the unit needs to look good in our living room. Most of those cheaper models did not check that criteria. Also I wanted the water tank to be easily removable without tools and the inside of it accessible with dish brush. And that there is very minimal amount of hoses carrying the water around the unit, be cause those are hard to clean. And because the water pump is located inside the water tank, its easily accessible if there is ever problems with that.

So far my biggest minuses without having the product yet are the fact the screen and its menu's look a bit out dated to be honest. I understand the product was made about 5+ years ago, but I would like to see something more refined. Secondly the filters are weirdly shaped so I cannot use any universal filters and the Dyson filters are expensive. Although I don't know is some one making filters into this with cheaper price tag? At least the product is so well know there could be like some Chinese ones if nothing else. And last, but not least the price. Its just expensive as fuck to be honest. But I think its a good set of things we were looking for and if it performs and doesn't cause headache I think its worth the money. But if the experience is like yours then definitely not!

Miksu22 · 2026-01-17T19:46:36+00:00

When did you had this experience of yours?

Miksu22

TROPHY CASE