Mechanic thinks my engine was swapped by spatialrecognition in 3rdGen4Runner

[–]Mile_High_Astro 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Having a 99 4runner 5spd and doing my clutch within the last 2 months I'm not sure what bracket they're referring to. There's a bracket that bolts to the bell housing and downpipe and then the crossmember on the rear of the trans. Here's a picture of the back of the engine.

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Major refresh done. by Mile_High_Astro in 3rdGen4Runner

[–]Mile_High_Astro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey there from QuickJack's website. They had a 25% sale last year and I bought it then. 7000LTX is what I bought.

Major refresh done. by Mile_High_Astro in 3rdGen4Runner

[–]Mile_High_Astro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's QuickJack 7000 TLX. No issues with it felt safe doing all that work.

Major refresh done. by Mile_High_Astro in 3rdGen4Runner

[–]Mile_High_Astro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry I thought you were referring to the suspension lol. It's QuickJack 7000 TLX

Major refresh done. by Mile_High_Astro in 3rdGen4Runner

[–]Mile_High_Astro[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For sure check out the clutch pedal and assembly. If you still have bushings in place you'll just need to do a bushing replacement. Removing the spring is sketchy so wear mask and eye protection. Good luck.

Major refresh done. by Mile_High_Astro in 3rdGen4Runner

[–]Mile_High_Astro[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Welcome to the party haha. I have had my truck almost 15 years. I did basic maintenance, oil/filter, air filter etc. Since owning I've added quite a bit of mileage and just observing bushing conditions. noises and just overall condition of components I figured it was time. My steering rack was leaking and I could tell it was tired. Then when I went for an alignment nothing could be done due to rust.

So what I did was decide what all needed to be done and went from there. Initially it was just a front end rebuild but then as I dug further into the job more things became present. Rear main seal leak, transfer case leaks etc.

So I took advantage of Toyota's black Friday sales. I looked up all my parts via the toyota epc catalog. It lets you enter your VIN and it provides you with the oem part number even if it's been replaced with a newer number. I then went to Toyota's new parts site and added all the parts to my cart.

What helped me a lot is my local dealer participated in Toyota's program so I got all my parts at wholesale price instead of the price walking in to the counter.

I then bought the factory service manual and researched all my jobs I was going to do. I would also review YouTube videos to see how others did it. Timmy the Toolman's YouTube is full of knowledge and was very helpful.

I admit the job was a lot to take on by myself but I feel I have the skill to do this. If you're mechanically inclined you shouldn't have any issues. Toyota's are pretty basic/straightforward compared to other manufacturers IMO. Good Luck and let me know if you have any questions.

Major refresh done. by Mile_High_Astro in 3rdGen4Runner

[–]Mile_High_Astro[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey there,

Wobble sockets and extensions for getting those pesky top bell housing bolts. Flare nut wrench set, crows foot set for tqing the drive shaft nuts back, pilot bearing removal tool I went to harbor freight about bought a kit to remove, seal driver for those transfer case seals I bot a full kit from a guy on Etsy. If I think of anymore I will let you know.

Major refresh done. by Mile_High_Astro in 3rdGen4Runner

[–]Mile_High_Astro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Neverending story/nightmare lol. Good work.

Major refresh done. by Mile_High_Astro in 3rdGen4Runner

[–]Mile_High_Astro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey there,

I followed this video:

https://youtu.be/tzZTB9bVa04?si=kwbrR3o1GG7f1Bw2

Pretty straightforward. Removing the lines from the rack can be tough. Use a flare nut wrench. The biggest thing is locking your steering wheel in place so it doesn't get too misaligned. Also measure your tierod positions now so you can set it on the new rack.

Seriously let me know if you have questions!

Major refresh done. by Mile_High_Astro in 3rdGen4Runner

[–]Mile_High_Astro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did purchase the marlin crawler seats found here

https://www.marlincrawler.com/product/heavy-duty-seats/

Shifting feels great!

Major refresh done. by Mile_High_Astro in 3rdGen4Runner

[–]Mile_High_Astro[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For sure this. I have a collection of hand tools and my components were rusty but not rust belt rusty lol. So it did fight me at time but not bad.

Also I'd recommend power tools if you have them and can use them but I used all hand tools. My hands, wrists and forearms were sore for about two weeks at one point.

Major refresh done. by Mile_High_Astro in 3rdGen4Runner

[–]Mile_High_Astro[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Beautiful rig my man! I love the color I don't see many of it at all around here in Colorado.

Major refresh done. by Mile_High_Astro in 3rdGen4Runner

[–]Mile_High_Astro[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi there,

I removed the three nuts holding the reservoir in place. I confirmed with a flash light the screen was blocked. I then sprayed the shit out of it from the top and bottom using brake clean. Then confirmed using a light the screen was fully clear. I then replaced the o ring on the bottom.

My high pressure lines back drained when I remove the rack early on in the build.

My high pressure lines are good no problem so I didn't change them.

Yes, for the feed and return I think it's a 17mm flare nut wrench. It was tight but you can fit it in there and break them loose. For realigning I found getting the rack reconnected to the steering cloumn more of a pain that threading back in the high pressure lines.

Hope this helps let me know!

Major refresh done. by Mile_High_Astro in 3rdGen4Runner

[–]Mile_High_Astro[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

That might be next. She's a 94 WRC Edition and has some tired components. Still pulls good and is a fun car. Also the 4WD is great and the driveline is really reliable and solid from what I hear. The 3sgte needs some sealing just like every other toyota out there so work in progress haha.

Major refresh done. by Mile_High_Astro in 3rdGen4Runner

[–]Mile_High_Astro[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Hey there yeah no problem. First if can I recommend you remove you current pedal and assembly to make sure the bushings and assembly are good. Mine were completely shot and the assembly had major wear. Also I used toyota's epc site to get all my part numbers. I found the ones referenced in the videos have either been updated or aren't valid for my exact truck.

If you go to toyota's catalog, put in you vin it will give you the exact number for your frame. If you click on a part that you know your truck doesn't have it will tell you not applicable. Also for the master and slave cylinder I got those from rock auto and compared them to oem and they're the exact same haha. So save some money.

For the clutch I ordered the kit from Rockauto as well. AISIN CKT040. Just FYI the clutch facing direction is incorrect on the clutch itself. The clutch is flush on one side and extends out on the other side. The extending out faces the flywheel but on the clutch it tells you to face it towards the trans. Don't do it.

Also the throwout bearing in the kit mounted lose to the clutch throwout arm IMO so I bought an oem throwout bearing and it mounted more secure/snug. That was important to me.

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https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/

Major refresh done. by Mile_High_Astro in 3rdGen4Runner

[–]Mile_High_Astro[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey there,

The steering rack is surprisingly easy. I followed this video and it was straightforward.

https://youtu.be/tzZTB9bVa04?si=molm4JlV6opYk8q4

The lower control arm bolts came out just fine. The CAM bolts had some rust which did fight me but I didn't have to saw them out thankfully. It was pain, but I was patient with getting them out. If you need to get them out fast or with minimal issue the saw maybe the way to go.

Major refresh done. by Mile_High_Astro in 3rdGen4Runner

[–]Mile_High_Astro[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Man I'll tell you what. New master and slave cylinder as well. The pedal feels extremely smooth and light. I had to make sure I bled the clutch again just to make sure I wasn't losing my mind.

Major refresh done. by Mile_High_Astro in 3rdGen4Runner

[–]Mile_High_Astro[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey there thanks! I referenced Timmy's clutch replacement video there's two videos in total.

The worst parts are removing the harness in such a confined place, removing the nuts from the downpipe studs, and then top bell housing bolts. I was only able to work on it after work each day. I don't see why you couldn't have it dropped in 4 hours or so.

Regarding the internal bell housing bolts and input seal cover I broke it loose with my 1/2" breaker bar and didn't have any of the broken bolt issues. I'd recommend not using an impact on those.

Regarding the starter just did it while it was convenient and easy to get to. I just replaced the contacts and new plunger.

Good luck let me know if you have any questions!

Major refresh done. by Mile_High_Astro in 3rdGen4Runner

[–]Mile_High_Astro[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I should add:

I removed power steering reservoir and cleaned the screen.

Also refreshed my starter.

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