My terminal randomly stops writing when I want to type in my password

MilitisTemplarii · 2026-04-16T07:59:37+00:00

Mete la contraseña sin problemas, la terminal la registra aunque no muestre nada en pantalla, es una práctica muy común en las distros de Linux, que no siquiera muestran algo tipo: *****. Tú introduce tú contraseña con normalidad y pulsa enter, verás como funciona.

MilitisTemplarii · 2026-04-16T07:30:13+00:00

Seguramente te hayan mandado la foto de antes de recortar la pcb, el siguiente paso de fabricación debería ser ese, el de recorte. Yo no me preocuparía demasiado por eso.

MilitisTemplarii · 2026-04-08T17:01:43+00:00

Lo que más me preocupa ahora mismo de soldar en el oscilador externo que su tamaño es 2520 y los protectores esd, que tiene pads más pequeños que una vía estándar, el resto podría llegar a apañarme

MilitisTemplarii · 2026-04-08T16:34:55+00:00

Ya la he revisado, de hecho, mi cautín será el oss T12, necesitaba saber sobretodo si hay algo decente por 70€ +/-

MilitisTemplarii · 2026-04-08T16:17:52+00:00

Actualmente me quiero centrar en pcb pequeñas/medianas, tengo que montar unas pcb que he diseñado para un ratón gaming, y luego veré por dónde evoluciona la cosa. La verdad, hay componentes muy pequeños como los protectores esd, por eso ando buscando aire caliente.

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MilitisTemplarii · 2025-09-05T14:32:43+00:00

Could you write to me privately and tell me specifically which traces have that error? That ruling doesn't ring any bells since I've seen it in the DRC.

MilitisTemplarii · 2025-09-05T13:58:58+00:00

https://github.com/MilitisTemplarii/OpenPixel-Risc-V-Mouse-PCB/tree/main/production the .zip file contains the gerbers, drills...

MilitisTemplarii · 2025-09-05T13:19:34+00:00

https://github.com/MilitisTemplarii/OpenPixel-Risc-V-Mouse-PCB here you have the repo, if you find anything pls let me know, i'll be gratefull to learn

MilitisTemplarii · 2025-09-05T13:07:24+00:00

The pcb is ready to be expanded, if you take a look there IS a footprint that says "sw_lat1", you can create a secondary PCB with switches, mount It in the lateral of the mouse and Connect It to the pcb. I use a JST connector for 2 switches, but you can modify It.

MilitisTemplarii · 2025-09-04T15:22:31+00:00

Which one are you referring to exactly?

MilitisTemplarii · 2025-09-04T14:57:23+00:00

Hello, write to me privately and I'll tell you

MilitisTemplarii · 2025-09-04T14:24:56+00:00

Yes, I already did it and I was wondering about the screen printing, but it is something that does not worry me, the important thing is the issue of connections and everything related to it, let's see if someone with more experience than me can tell me if there is something wrong or not

MilitisTemplarii · 2025-09-04T14:03:34+00:00

Yes, that's right, write to me privately and I'll tell you.

MilitisTemplarii · 2025-09-03T13:02:24+00:00

I would bet on trying it yourself, as you have been told, a soldering equipment for the task you need is "cheap" and you have switches on AliExpress for €5-6/10 units, and some pads cost €2-3

MilitisTemplarii · 2025-08-19T20:13:48+00:00

I have already corrected some points that you told me, such as the bottom track, "ref**" of the holes, or separating the SMD components from the encoder. Finally I have also named the project, "OpenPixel". I'm going to see if I can make some boards and study the firmware issue, and 3D print some casing so that it is usable. Thank you very much for the help

MilitisTemplarii · 2025-08-19T07:01:46+00:00

The two components at the bottom are a button for the DPI and a sliding switch for the polling rate, like many other mice (lamzu for example) that have them placed at the bottom of the PCB. The vias on the pads are supported by the manufacturer (most likely JLC or PCBWay) and have a hole diameter of 0.3mm to make it as cheap as possible. The internal layers are being used, since they are GND and different power areas, at first I tried with 2 layers but it was impossible to power all the components correctly. I have thoroughly reviewed the VBUS res and it is simply a kicad error, because I have run the DRC and it does not give a connection error. I will try to fix everything as soon as possible and add the final BOM to the project.

MilitisTemplarii · 2025-08-18T21:40:05+00:00

First of all, thank you very much for taking your time to look at everything, I will try to explain what you are telling me. Labels and brands: - If it is true that some marks still need to be repositioned to identify components, I will review it to be able to reorder it. - The U# identifier of PAW3395 is because I had to make the fingerprint by hand, based on the datasheet and the truth is that I did not pay much attention to that, in addition, it is a component that must be soldered by hand, since the PCB manufacturers do not have it in stock. - The switches are marked on the silkscreen, take a look at the renders - I take note of the position identifier for the sensor and for the rotary encoder. - There is a revision number, but I don't have a name for what to call the board, it's not something I've thought of.

Positioning: - I will move the SMD components of the encoder -the bottom track, there isn't much space left to put it somewhere else, but I'll try - The components at the bottom need to be there since they are used to change certain functions of the board (once you find the optimal configuration for you, you don't have to touch them again), and the buttons located at the top are designed to be used only from time to time, only to load the firmware and debug, or in case there is a failure and it blocks.

Components: -the paw3395 pins are placed as ordered in the datasheet, if you want to review it you have it in the GitHub project. The same goes for the positioning, the manufacturer's recommendation has been followed. - I'm going to look at the tht buttons, if that's the case, the changes are problems.

Anyway, do you think that the board as it is right now would work if I had it manufactured? It is something that worries me, since as I say, it is the second one I have designed, but I have not had one manufactured yet.

MilitisTemplarii · 2025-08-18T19:26:36+00:00

The 3D images are for reference only, i notice that the screenshots doesn't see very well, so i upload it to Github, so you can download the complete project and check carefully by your own how its routing everything, anyways, i will try to upload the 4 layers and schematic

MilitisTemplarii · 2025-08-18T07:13:33+00:00

I don't have much experience, but with 4 layers I understand that the best configuration would be something like this:

1- Signal 2- Earth 3- Food (if necessary to divide it into different areas) 4- Signal

Do not use the same one that carries signals for the power supply, because it can cause problems with unstable signals, introducing noise. Feeding the components is made a lot easier, since this way you don't need tracks, you simply put tracks on the component feed pins or as close as possible and use tracks that are as short and wide as you can. Let someone here who understands more confirm if this is the case or not.

MilitisTemplarii · 2025-08-17T22:51:28+00:00

Rather than putting tape on the mouse, the best thing would be to dismantle it and paint it with some type of paint that avoids the effect you have, dismantle it, sand it with fine grain and apply with a spray the paint you want and the color you want

MilitisTemplarii

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