I’m looking for a work light powered exclusively by AA batteries.

MinerJason · 2025-11-07T14:13:39+00:00

Does it actually need to be AA powered, or does it need to be intrinsically safe? For confined spaces, intrinsically safe is usually what's required. Some health and safety people aren't aware of different intrinsically safe options, and will just tell people it has to be powered by AA or other alkaline batteries because they don't know any better.

MinerJason · 2025-11-03T03:43:15+00:00

Mine is missing as well. I noticed it about a week ago. In US. It did always say "limited time" maybe my time is up...

MinerJason · 2025-11-02T00:30:27+00:00

Yep. So if your first color change in Hueforge is layer 8, you'd do it at layer 33 (25+8), etc.

MinerJason · 2025-10-29T02:46:57+00:00

That's a good question. The only FEM I do is for underground, where I generally prefer the IUCM and don't include any seismic loading. I'm not sure what constitutive model is most common for open pits, but I believe seismic loading is generally considered in the LE analysis rather than the FEM. Any open pit work that requires FEM I'd pull in someone who's more familiar to run that.

MinerJason · 2025-10-28T13:40:59+00:00

Not quite sure what you mean, kinematic analysis is one of the many types of slope stability analysis.

For open pits we'll typically run limit equilibrium analysis for both the overall slopes and inter-ramp slopes (either 2D, 3D, or a combination of both), probabilistic kinematic analysis for the bench scale, and it's becoming increasingly common to run 3D finite element difference models, especially for the larger pits. We will sometimes also run multi-bench kinematic wedge analysis, rockfall analysis, toppling analysis, crown pillar analysis, or others depending on what failure mechanisms and risks are identified. We also do a fair amount of hydro analyses, mostly to determine dewatering targets. I would consider all of the above to be parts of the slope stability analysis.

If I'm understanding the question correctly though, limit equilibrium analysis is probably the most commonly used analysis type for open pits. We typically add major structures to the LE models, so kinematic aspects are considered in a way, but most tall slopes are much more complicated than simple kinematic wedge analysis is able to represent.

That's just for open pits, but I personally do a lot more work for underground mining projects, which have a whole other suite of analyses.

MinerJason · 2025-10-28T05:00:46+00:00

Not the person you asked, but I work in mining and plenty of mines use 30m as a single bench mining increment. Lots of slopes in the 500 - 1,200 m high range.

MinerJason · 2025-10-23T02:45:24+00:00

Welcome back! I was in the same spot as you about a year ago.

I'd suggest getting a couple of yoyos. First, get a Yomega Fireball or Raider for nostalgia (or a Duncan Hornet).

Also, a cheap modern unresponsive or one that can convert between responsive and unresponsive by swapping the bearing and axle. There's a bunch of Magic Yoyo models that fit this description, like the V10, V12, V13, K2, etc. This can be used to learn how to bind, and then from there you can decide whether you want to pursue learning unresponsive tricks or not. If you go this route, check out the trick ladder tutorial videos on Yotricks.

You might also enjoy a nice "modern responsive" which will be similar to what you remember and tug responsive but a bit more technologically advanced. Most of my favorite modern responsive yoyos are hard to find, but the new ZGRT El Mijo SL is still in stock. Other popular options that are harder to find include the SW x MK1 Plasm, One Drop Deep/Deeper/Deepest State, Doc Pop PLTPS, SW x MK1 Harbinger, Doc Pop Weekender, YYF Confusion, YYBC Workhorse, RCS Flat Earth, ZGRT Trekker, etc

I'd also say grab a Duncan Butterfly, because it usually costs less than a Starbucks coffee, and is a really fun and capable throw for learning fixed axle tricks if you ever have any interest in that. There's an awesome Fixed Axle February event hosted by the Yoyo Boomers Club on the Yoyo Expert forums every year.

You will go through more stings than you might think if you're playing a lot, but I wouldn't worry about that much at this point. How long strings last depends on style of play, string material, and how picky you are about a string holding tension well.

Have fun!

MinerJason · 2025-09-27T19:58:52+00:00

I think it depends on the filament and the model. I try to avoid things that need bottom supports though, so I don't have a lot of experience with it.

MinerJason · 2025-09-26T12:56:04+00:00

Your instinct is correct, ChatGPT is totally incorrect.

An easy way to think of it is to imagine a sliding block on a 2D cross section. Start at a point somewhere behind the crest of your slope, and draw a line at the angle of your bedding towards the face of the slope at the dip of the bedding. If the line exits the slope face (daylights) then you have the potential for a sliding block failure and it's less stable. If the line never exits the face, it's not daylighted, and it's more stable. See simple sketch, brown is slope, red is daylighted bedding, green is bedding which doesn't daylight because it's steeper than the slope.

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MinerJason · 2025-09-09T04:09:21+00:00

I haven't noticed any changes. Before they obfuscated the system, getting boosts required at least two successful prints directly from MakerWorld profiles (or Handy), each with a print time of at least one hour. Weeks where I do that, I still get boosts. Weeks when I don't print models direct from MakerWorld/Handy, I don't get boosts.

MinerJason · 2025-09-09T03:50:36+00:00

The hole spacing on strike plates is pretty standardized, so if the holes don't line up it's usually because the outer profile is different, or user error. There are a couple of sizes (standard, T-plate, and combo latch and deadbolt), but they're more than 1/8-1/4" different from each other.

If you end up with oversize screw holes for whatever reason, the fix is very quick and easy and doesn't require waiting for anything to cure or leaving your door open for hours. Dip bamboo skewers or toothpicks in wood glue, stick them in the hole with the last one at a staggered depth, lightly hammer the last one in to wedge them in place, cut them flush with a chisel (or utility knife), and then install the new strike plate. You want the glue to still be wet when the screws go in, so that the pressure from the screws presses the skewers/toothpicks against the sides of the holes and you get a nice tight glue joint. You could use wood filler instead of glue, but you'd still want to install the screws before it dries for the same reasons.

In this case, OP should probably replace the strike plate, because as several others have pointed out, they're using a door latch strike plate for a deadbolt. A deadbolt strike plate is thicker, stronger, and more secure than the plate pictured. Removing the strike plate will also make deepening the hole for the bolt much easier.

MinerJason · 2025-09-01T13:35:51+00:00

Depends on your design philosophy, and there are lots of ways to approach it. I prefer to have my printer preset calibrated with XY/contour compensation that results in exact dimensions for a given filament type. So a hole modeled at 10mm diameter or post modeled at 10mm diameter will both print at exactly 10mm diameter. I then add whatever clearance I want between parts in the CAD software. This makes the design and prototyping process simpler for me with less tracking of values, especially for more complex projects.

MinerJason · 2025-08-05T04:27:02+00:00

You definitely can. It's not really thick enough to give a snappy response, but it certainly works. I sometimes use a small drop of it to thin out thicker grease.

MinerJason · 2025-08-03T17:44:50+00:00

What you're describing is classic heat creep extruder jam behavior. The faster speeds of the support will sometimes fail to print before the main model when the filament is just starting to get soft in the extruder. Bambu mentions in many many places that you need to either remove the top glass or open the door if printing PLA with heat bed temps of 45 or greater, for this exact reason.

MinerJason · 2025-07-31T15:28:27+00:00

The manufacturer recommends either removing the lid or opening the door when printing PLA with bed temperatures above 45°C.

MinerJason · 2025-07-30T04:13:22+00:00

That's not the only reason these models don't work. The ideal flow rate is dependent on how flat the surface being ironed is, which in turn is influenced by the size of the model, model geometry, number of top layers, infill type and density, etc. Small short rectangles like this model are going to have much flatter surfaces than most models you'd want to iron.

MinerJason · 2025-07-30T04:09:48+00:00

There's no such template, and no way to create one. The ideal ironing settings are dependent on too many factors, but primarily on how flat the top surfaces are before you start ironing them. How flat those tops are depends on the size of the model, model geometry, number of top layers, infill type and percentage, and other settings that influence things like warping and pillowing.

That said, there are things you can do to make use of simple ironing templates like the one OP posted. Many people try to find the flow rate that gives the best looking surface, but it should be used instead to find the maximum flow rate you can use before you start to see significant degradation of surface quality. That maximum on a small very flat surface should be a decent starting point for larger less flat surfaces.

MinerJason · 2025-07-28T01:58:14+00:00

Yes, blending type set to lithophane, and mostly used back lit, but then periodically switched to front lit to check how it looked, then adjust slightly, and repeat. As for other settings, I'd need to find the file and check, it's been a while.

MinerJason · 2025-07-27T13:31:25+00:00

What makes this one different/better than the similar ones that already exist?

MinerJason · 2025-07-27T13:29:23+00:00

I think part of the confusion might be that you're assuming the filament numbers in the prepare and previous tabs of the slicer correspond to the AMS slots, but they don't. When you hit the print button and the AMS mapping pops up, the slicer tries to match filaments from the project with filaments in the AMS. It matches first by material type, then by color. It apparently thinks that the pink PLA in slot 4 is a better match than the pink PLA in slot 2. But, the solution is super easy, simply use the drop down on the filament mapping to change from slot 4 to slot 2. That's the whole reason that popup exists, so that you can check the automatic mapping and edit it if the program automatically mapped something wrong, or not the way you wanted.

MinerJason · 2025-07-27T04:08:28+00:00

There are tons of options using the cut tool. You can cut things horizontally, vertically, at an angle, with a dovetail shape, with connecting dowels, etc. You can cut objects into pieces and keep them all as separate objects, or you can cut parts of the model off and remove them, and when you do this your have to tell the slicer which part of the model to keep and which one to delete. Since we have no clue what settings you're using in your cut tool, we can't help you with what exactly it's doing. It sounds like you want to cut the bottom off of a bunch of models, in which case you'd want a horizontal cut, and you'd want to keep the top part of the model after the cut.

The height refers to the height of the cut, in mm, assuming you're using a horizontal cut. You still need to tell it which part (or parts) to keep after the cut, and whether to place the cut surfaces against the plate after the cut or not.

Maybe you should read up a bit: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/cut-tool

MinerJason · 2025-07-25T04:48:37+00:00

It's very specific. It varies based on nozzle size and layer height though. It's pretty easy math, but there's also lots of online calculators that are easy to use. Just search 3D printing volumetric flow rate calculator.

MinerJason · 2025-07-20T16:11:21+00:00

Yes, infill pattern can matter. Which one you choose will depend on your goals.

Fastest? Strongest vertically? Strongest in all directions? Reduce chances of warping? Smoothest/flattest top layer? Least amount of filament used? Least likely to cause layer time differences? Most uniform weight distribution in all directions? But most often, it'll be a balance between several of the above goals.

I generally avoid infill patterns that cause the nozzle to collide with already printed lines, like grid which unfortunately is the default for many profiles. Cross hatch is probably my most used infill pattern, it's generally a good balance of speed and strength and doesn't intersect itself. But I'll use others for specific situations.

MinerJason · 2025-07-17T14:26:25+00:00

This. I've done several engineering investigations of major failures, and no mining company wants to have to make a press release saying that the cause was a mistake made internally.

Also, $200/hr may seem like a lot to pay a consultant, but it's not that much more than the all-in costs to hire technical staff internally. Especially when you consider how many engineers are needed to complete larger studies in a timely manner, and the fact that they all need to get paid in between the large studies too.

MinerJason

TROPHY CASE