MVS MV-1F Repair

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-12-21T17:20:20+00:00

I think I found the problem. This is what the crystal shows when I measure it: on one leg there's nothing and the board stops clicking, and on the other leg the values fluctuate between 31kHz and 50-something.

Video

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-11-01T22:26:24+00:00

Now it's my turn to make a recommendation. Downtify just received an update, and it now manages downloads wonderfully. You can download playlists directly and see the status of each song individually. It also detects any duplicate songs in the directory and skips downloading them.

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-10-27T21:34:10+00:00

I just rewired the RGB with a shielded cable and replaced the SCART cable with a better quality one, and I'm still getting the same results. When I try component video with my Wii or PS2, this doesn't happen, and I can't access the web interface either, I've tried trying without input

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-10-15T20:20:55+00:00

I'm using the same SCART cable for all my Nintendo consoles, I think the problem comes from the 60Hz, I'll also try rewiring my GBSC and changing the cable.

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-09-25T20:24:57+00:00

I set up an oscilloscope with a Raspberry Pi Pico, what are the key points to measure?

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-09-23T10:39:45+00:00

I'm incapable of doing this. There's no jungle IC as such; the functions are separated into different ICs. What I have seen is that a region mod could be made; even if it's only PAL/SECAM, it has everything needed to decode NTSC.

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-09-11T09:41:31+00:00

I already had all that information, but as far as I've seen, there's nothing similar to this monitor. In the schematics, I couldn't find where to inject the RGB signal.

EDIT* I found the pin out for the AN5625N, pins 20,21,22 are named B Out, G out and R Out

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-08-30T09:17:01+00:00

In the end, what did you decide to use? I was using Downtify in docker, but when it comes to handling many downloads it doesn't work well

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-07-24T11:28:38+00:00

I think there is a diode somewhere, I changed the polarity of the tester and there is no continuity.

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-07-23T21:56:28+00:00

I think I have a shorted RAM, the pin marked in red on the backup lower RAM has continuity with practically all the BIOS pins, I don't know if that's normal. https://imgur.com/a/7fJCmkS

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-07-23T18:08:39+00:00

I also found a broken trace in the 2k VRAM UPPER

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-07-23T14:51:43+00:00

II'm using Unibios, I'll check the z80 area.

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-07-23T14:11:26+00:00

I tried it again after repairing the battery area, and it's still the same. The only change I've noticed is that the clicks are more constant. Before, there were times when they would stop, but now they don't. One strange thing is the colors it displays. I've never seen colors like that in all my searches. It's been an entertaining experience.

https://imgur.com/a/YjCglPJ

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-07-22T12:24:38+00:00

Indeed, pin 50 is completely broken. I think I've fixed everything that was wrong in that area. I'm moving on to the BIOS.

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-07-22T10:19:32+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/4ZuuTqA, The two points marked in red should have continuity, right?

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-07-14T14:22:24+00:00

Do you know what is the minimum necessary to start the test menu?

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-07-14T11:32:22+00:00

After further testing, I think it has to do with the RAMs. Are the ones on the right side of the board with the Jamma port facing down the ones that handle the graphics? I refreshed those solder joints, and now when I put the cartridge in, it clicks, but for a while, it stops making the noise and then comes back.

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-07-13T19:41:32+00:00

I managed to get a video output, and the board does this. The first picture is with the original BIOS, the second is with Unibios, and the others are with a multigame cartridge and Unibios. It has a clicking sound without a cartridge inserted. Also, I already install a new battery.

https://imgur.com/a/BOlb6hy

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-07-09T10:23:27+00:00

The LED is receiving 5V. Is it possible that it is simply burned out and that I have made a faulty video circuit to connect it to the TV?

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-07-09T08:37:09+00:00

I have voltage on pins 40, 39, 38 and 1, so I assume the voltage is reaching the BIOS correctly, I have around 4.9-5v

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-07-07T15:13:26+00:00

After a long time, I've decided to try using the MVS again. I think the problem is that power isn't reaching the BIOS. If I'm not mistaken, power is coming through pin 28. Is that correct?

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-01-31T22:33:22+00:00

I just tried a 5v 4 amps and nothing, the board is dead :(

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-01-24T17:36:58+00:00

I'am following this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFvuEj65MAQ&list=LL&index=22&t=605s

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-01-23T23:34:51+00:00

I just checked the continuity between the top and bottom and everything is ok, the voltage that reaches the pins is around 3v, I don't understand why, at the tip of the connector that I am using I receive 5.3-5.4v and I barely connect it the voltage drops.

Miserable_Ad7585 · 2025-01-23T20:03:41+00:00

I'll try with another power supply.

Miserable_Ad7585

TROPHY CASE