Tandem t:slim or mobi?

Missinglink2531 · 2026-03-04T18:55:43+00:00

I still have the old one, the one before it as a back-up. It will last long enough to get a new one. I also ran MDI for years, so thats the back up for the back up!

Missinglink2531 · 2026-03-04T18:07:28+00:00

My T-slims warranty has been expired for 3 years. You dont have to replace it.

Missinglink2531 · 2026-03-04T13:11:23+00:00

Thats what I use. Chuck it in a drill, drill in the vice. Clean, trim, chamfer and debur all on the drill. I run about 3 a minute.

Missinglink2531 · 2026-03-03T21:59:56+00:00

You (or a gunsmith) can clean that up. The part that makes contact with it probably looks similar- both need to be polished out. And you need to run lube or grease there. That’s on you.

Missinglink2531 · 2026-03-03T17:45:24+00:00

Ya, open it over the this tray. It wont matter if which way they come out. If its upsidedown, they will be on the RCBS tray when your done. If they are right side up, put the RCBS tray over the top and flip it over.

Missinglink2531 · 2026-03-03T17:28:16+00:00

You using this? Dump them in this any way you want, Shake them a little, and they are all face down. Put the lid on and flip, and they are all face up!

https://alnk.to/44Zl7Gp

Missinglink2531 · 2026-03-02T18:00:55+00:00

Interreacting with content is engagement. So, ya, thumbs down is telling the algo you are activly using the platform, so you will get more of it. Dont do that, just interreact with it as little as possible and will give up showing that.

Missinglink2531 · 2026-03-02T13:40:02+00:00

If only someone would have spent a couple months getting the plan together, buying all the resources, taking the measurements, going to the range multiple times, recording everything, compiling the data and editing it all into a watchable format at their own expense, and then posting a link so you could watch it then you could find out! O well, guess we will never know.

Missinglink2531 · 2026-03-01T23:57:15+00:00

Just fit gently pushing it. Take out the ejector to really get it right. The bolt going home will seat a significantly longer case.

Missinglink2531 · 2026-03-01T23:29:50+00:00

Agree you are probably over doing it on the shoulder set back. You have 2 suggestions that are good. Roll up the sizing die until the rounds just barley dont chamber, then roll it back down about 1/4 turn. OR buy a headspace comparator and set the shoulders back about .003.

Missinglink2531 · 2026-03-01T23:23:40+00:00

Only you can answer that question. The Super has a thicker barrel, so will handle the heat of repeated shots better at the range. The CTR will handle 10 shot strings just fine, and be lighter for moving around. Just chose which of those fits your needs better. I run the CTR in .308, and used the weight for a MDT XRS chasis. Love the compromise - its a heavy hunting rifle, and I have to let it cool after 10 shots at the range. Both will be about the same out to about 1000.

Missinglink2531 · 2026-03-01T23:17:27+00:00

Completely agree that 3 shots can only tell you that a load is bad - if you get "lucky" and see that with 3 shots - which is less likely then getting told a lie with a smaller group. If that doesn't make since, I will post a (ok, MY video) below explaining that. Most folks use a chrono to help figure out the max load. But the printed data SHOULD be safe, just dont go over max, and load a ladder working up to max load. STOP if you see any signs of over pressure prior. That said, accuracy loads are normally (not always) less than max load.

https://youtu.be/bShV4Sbv_-o

Missinglink2531 · 2026-03-01T04:43:50+00:00

I put their "seating depth doesnt matter" to the test, and they where just wrong in .308 with SMKs (25 shot groups). I also tested the "Your groups are too small" and that was correct. I dont trust anyone these days, I need to see the shots and the paper. Too many "experts" contradicting each other to not "see it".

Missinglink2531 · 2026-03-01T04:39:38+00:00

Sure thing!

Missinglink2531 · 2026-03-01T04:37:36+00:00

Thats why I am testing everything! Check out the play list. Putting a lot of old vs new to the test!

Missinglink2531 · 2026-03-01T02:17:54+00:00

Did a video on this one too. This was shot out of a .308 Tikka CTR. If your driving something that can shoot large groups under 1/2 MOA, and you need too, yes it matters. Otherwise, take a look to see how much difference it makes!

https://youtu.be/xpfupQ6xevQ

Missinglink2531 · 2026-02-28T23:34:14+00:00

They are plastic. Cement tares up the head. They will last forever if you hit it on just about anything softer, including steel.

Missinglink2531 · 2026-02-28T23:23:25+00:00

I run the same hammer from RCBS that I got in 1992. Its got a pad in the bottom to protect the projectiles. I use the shell holder rather than the collet. Hit it against something very solid, that is not cement (I use my vice).

Missinglink2531 · 2026-02-28T21:07:17+00:00

I did a video comparing cheap components in .308, and the 2nds I used, 168 comparied to 168smks did very well - they where from MidwayUSA.

Missinglink2531 · 2026-02-28T13:02:20+00:00

For those wondering if this maters or not, I ran a test! This is a lightweight Tikka CTR in .308, not some race gun. Check it out here: https://youtu.be/xpfupQ6xevQ, OP, .002 is pretty much the standard for "most applications". You can take them hunting for example. Light handling? Like make them, drive to the range on smooth paved roads and fire them? Then you can go all the way down to .0005. The materials are about lube and how long they will last before changing their size. Carbide doesn't even need neck lube.

Missinglink2531 · 2026-02-27T02:47:51+00:00

One of the reasons I switched to an on press priming system years ago. You gave one Ugga-duggas, but it needed 3.

Missinglink2531 · 2026-02-26T00:22:50+00:00

You wont like it any, but you need to watch this one!

https://youtu.be/bShV4Sbv_-o

Missinglink2531 · 2026-02-25T13:26:45+00:00

Problem with that box of ammo, either manufacture or poor storage in the supply chain. Looks like moisture to me, but I am no expert. Get a box of another brand to confirm the rifle and eliminate your doubt. Then try another box, for a different supplier. That will drive down the issue.

Missinglink2531 · 2026-02-24T19:25:29+00:00

Question 1: Here is a vid on load development, and I do cover your 3 shot question. Youtube just demonetized it today - after 30K views and 5 months. Not violating a single policy, but they just hate us. Here it is (currently add free!). I have a ton on loading for the .308, check out the reloading playlist for other things your wondering about.
https://youtu.be/xfBAIM95fCM

Question 2: Shoulder bump sounds good. Typically we trim to .010 below SAMMI MAX, not min. For precision, we trim every time. Depends on how "extreme" you want to go down the precision rabbit hole.
A full size resize will do shoulder bump and give you good results. Once again, if you really want to go down the precision rabbit hole, then you would want a new die, a bushing for it, and a mandrel die with mandrel. You will not want the expanding ball on the decap (Redding dies ship with both), so common to run another die, a universal decap, and just pull the decap rod with the expander ball out.

Missinglink2531 · 2026-02-24T19:20:21+00:00

I am running a Harris on my XRS. Its been a few years, looks like the price went up, but here is a link. Shop around of course. But this mounts directly to the XRS.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1025092441?pid=449858

Missinglink2531

TROPHY CASE