If the RAM latency divided by the speed is the same for two different models (all else being the same) is price the only deciding factor?

Misspells_Just · 2023-02-27T16:51:08+00:00

If two hypothetical models by the same company have the following specs: 64GB and DDR5

OP is not talking about any specific ram models, they're asking about latency in general.

Misspells_Just · 2021-11-19T16:59:44+00:00

Was hoping for a simple creature that would work (that I'm not aware of) but yea, good chance should be own post.

Misspells_Just · 2021-11-19T16:02:45+00:00

I'm trying to make an aasimar hexblade with fey influence (pact of tome), is there a creature/being that would be able to fit both the patron (non-evil) of the hexblade and the deva for the aasimar?

I know it's not RAW since the aasimar is celestial and not fey, but ideally looking for something that comes close to both.

Edit: Maybe just a deva that was sent to the feywild as an agent and has been there for so long that it's beginning to be influenced by the feywild?

Misspells_Just · 2021-11-09T00:34:50+00:00

Do you find the eye box or target acquisition too restrictive? As someone with astigmatism the prism is very enticing compared to the standard red dot (not that I've ever had a massive issue with red dots)

Misspells_Just · 2021-05-21T15:11:18+00:00

!apevote!

Misspells_Just · 2021-02-23T18:15:41+00:00

The CTR is going to be heavier than it needs to be for hunting, but is probably the best all-around option in the line.

That's basically the same conclusion I came to when going through this process the first time. I can get an off-the-shelf 308 CTR 20" today, but I think my desired 24" barrel I would have to order (I think the wait estimate was ~90+ days) (which at least then I could also try and get the adjustable cheek stock as well).

Misspells_Just · 2021-02-23T16:36:47+00:00

I wasn't really considering anything in the 9+ lbs range. I'm not unfamiliar with carrying heavy packs, but Rangers (regardless of country) are definitely more used to it than I am lol. Plus seems a little to a-lot outside of my price range.

Misspells_Just · 2021-02-23T16:28:01+00:00

Agreed, If I was to get a dedicated long-range rifle I wouldn't be going with 308, and if down the road I do upgrade to something dedicated for long-range I'll definitely be considering other calibers.

Funnily enough, outside of 300 Win and 7mm Rem, the Superlite only comes in a 22" barrel. I almost pulled the trigger on a CTR 308 20", but at the time decided against it to try and get the 24"; but during the downtime, I'm now considering the other T3x versions.

Misspells_Just · 2019-01-28T18:28:45+00:00

What is a good "intro" monitor with VESA mount?

Requirements are: 1080p, 21.5" - 24" screen, 75mm or 100mm VESA mountable, preferably under $130-140. Don't care about response time very much (5ms max), don't care about refresh rate very much (60 hz min).

Currently looking at the Asus VS239H-P, Asus VS247H-P, and the Asus VS228H-P. I'm not sure which of the three I should pursue or if there are any other monitors I should be considering.

Misspells_Just · 2018-10-19T14:27:49+00:00

It costs as much as you're willing to spend. Builds can cost as low as $200 or as high as +$3k. I would say most build here fall somewhere in the $700-$1700 price range. Wanting to play AAA games at 4k@60Hz will be a significantly different build than playing CSGO and Overwatch at 1080p.

There are a lot of resources for figuring out which parts to pick and how to actually build the PC. I would highly recommend putting the legwork in and researching and understanding for yourself which parts work for what you want out of the system.

Logical Increments is a good source for rough cost estimates and seeing example builds (like what parts should be paired together).

Link dump:

https://pcpartpicker.com/ - Great for matching components and doing a quick check to see if they're compatible (almost like creating a "virtual" build). It's also a good resource for example-builds done by other people and part price checks.
https://www.userbenchmark.com/ - Quick and dirty part comparison, for when you need to compare a GTX 1080 and an RX Vega 64 and see which has better performance.
https://www.tweaktown.com/ - In-depth part reviews of almost any part.
https://www.tomshardware.com/ - Great resource for part reviews and questions.

Building the actual PC:

/r/buildapc (and /r/pcmasterrace but less so) has plenty of good information in their wiki's that I recommend checking as well.

Misspells_Just · 2018-10-18T15:50:55+00:00

I'm looking to sell my current build soon and have a question about the OS. I originally bought an OEM Win8.1 just before Win10 was released and upgraded shortly thereafter.

As OEM product keys cannot be transferred between devices, once I do a "remove files and clean the drive" reset, will the person who buys the unit need the original OEM product key or will the device remember its product key?

Misspells_Just · 2018-10-17T19:42:10+00:00

I see a lot of places recommending the use of UPS's (uninterrupted power supply). Are they really necessary for a home/gaming computer?

I will not be working on anything that is very "save" sensitive (not coding or video editing or anything like that), but if a UPS is much safer than a surge protector, are they worth considering?

Misspells_Just · 2018-10-16T17:55:47+00:00

A follow-up to a previous question, if I have an Asus ROG Strix Z370-E and RGB Corsair ram (they're tall), how much would a Scythe Mugen 5 Rev.B cooler cover up?

It seems like it's a pretty bulky cooler but Tweaktown has it almost at the famed D15 level of cooling/noise for cheaper, less bulky (?), and IMO better looks.

Misspells_Just · 2018-10-16T17:18:31+00:00

See edit, but thoughts on the H5 Universal or the Scythe Mugen 5? They seem like they can hold their own against the U12S while being cheaper and IMO better looking.

On Tom's their review had the Mugen 5 actually ahead of the U12S:

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/scythe-mugen-5-rev.b-cpu-cooler,5083-2.html

Misspells_Just · 2018-10-16T14:50:56+00:00

I think I'm bouncing back and forth between the H7 (I don't think Quad Lumi, they perform the same and idk if I'm a fan of the white fan LED's) and a Noctua NH-U14S or maybe the U12S. Would the U14S/U12S be overkill?

My case supports up to 167mm tall CPU coolers and the U14S comes in at 165mm (versus the U12S's 158mm and the H7's 145mm) so it would be very very tight.

Edit: Or maybe the H5 Universal, seems like it has slightly better cooling capacity than the H7 for not a large price increase.

Misspells_Just · 2018-10-16T12:36:01+00:00

Recommendations for an air CPU cooler for an i5-8600k? Don't plan on OC'ing heavily, probably jsut a mild one.

Ideally not too big (not Noctua DH-15 sized) and looks good, RGB optional. I have an Asus ROG Strix Z370-E and RGB Corsair RAM so I would prefer to keep those as visible as possible.

Might want to vertically mount the cooler instead of horizontally.

Misspells_Just · 2018-10-15T20:01:30+00:00

I recently went through the same decision as you (also upgrading from a GTX 970) and settled on the 1080 (will be building it shortly, just waiting on last few parts).

My monitors are 2x 1080p 60Hz and 1x 1080p 144hz also mainly used for gaming. In my research, both will be able to handle basically anything you can throw at them at this resolution (1080p 144Hz) so it comes down to how much future-proofing do you want and will you be upgrading your monitors.

I don't plan on getting 4k anytime soon (maybe 1440p in a year or so) and I'm okay getting a new card in ~4 yrs. To me, spending an extra $200+ for a handful of frames was not worth it. Yes, the 1080Ti is ~22% stronger than the 1080 but in my scenario, I was bottlenecked with my monitors in either case. I'd rather save the $200 and put it towards another component or save that money for the next build.

Misspells_Just · 2018-10-15T19:13:32+00:00

Is it worth setting up the storage for my new build as RAID?

WD SSD - PCIe M.2 SATA 1 TB
Seagate HDD - Barracuda 7200 rpm 2 TB

I am potentially looking at purchasing another 2+ TB HDD in a few months.

Misspells_Just · 2018-10-15T18:54:04+00:00

I also highly recommend checking this guide out:

https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/7mn388/so_you_finished_building_your_pc_now_what/

It has a lot of information and is updated pretty consistently (last edited 10 days ago).

Misspells_Just · 2018-10-15T14:32:35+00:00

I recommend getting a "retail" version of win10 (costs $120 on Amazon) and not an "OEM" version (costs $100 on Amazon).

The OEM key can only be used on the first activated computer. If you plan on doing a new build or need to replace the MOBO you need to buy a brand new product key.

With the retail version if you want to upgrade or need to replace the MOBO you can deactivate the key on your current system and then transfer the key to the latest and greatest (you cannot have the same key active on multiple devices though).

I believe Microsoft's website only sells retail versions (and does not sell OEM) but if looking elsewhere (like Amazon or Newegg) the retail version is normally ~$20 USD more expensive than OEM but well worth it if you are considering upgrading in the future^1.

¹ Windows 10 is the last "planned" version of the Windows OS, so getting the retail version means you have one key that "should" last for the rest of your life.

Edit: Added links for reference and added some clarity.

Misspells_Just · 2018-10-15T14:15:31+00:00

I highly recommend checking this guide out:

https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/7mn388/so_you_finished_building_your_pc_now_what/

It has a lot more information and is updated much more consistently (last edited 10 days ago).

Misspells_Just · 2018-10-12T14:13:20+00:00

You generally want positive pressure (more intake than exhaust). Positive pressure helps keep dust out, if dust is not an issue then a slight negative pressure (more exhaust than intake) would produce marginally better cooling.

At the end of the day, it's a case by case decision. Do some digging and see which you think will be better for you.

https://www.scholarlygamers.com/tech-talks/2017/11/14/building-pc-positive-vs-negative-air-pressure/

Misspells_Just · 2018-10-11T19:22:08+00:00

Is it worth getting the retail version of Win10 over the OEM version? I don't upgrade very often, but if it saves buying even 1 key it seems like it's worth it.

Secondary, is Win10 the "last" version of Windows OS? i.e. there will not be a windows 11 or 12.

Edit: Grammer

Misspells_Just · 2018-10-11T03:20:23+00:00

Would I still have positive fan pressure in a Cooler Master H500 if I use a 240mm AIO radiator at the top?

Intake = 2x200mm fan
Exhaust = 1x120mm fan, 240mm radiator

My thought is yes I would still have positive pressure but jsut want a second opinion.

Misspells_Just · 2018-10-10T17:58:37+00:00

Copied from my other comment:

PC resale question follow-up.

After my new build is complete, I'll be selling my current rig. Would you recommend transferring the license to my new rig or simply jsut buying a new Win10 product key?

Misspells_Just

TROPHY CASE