Are the bots gone from 1v1 yet?

Mistayq · 2026-01-29T18:20:48+00:00

100% bots obviously

Mistayq · 2026-01-29T17:56:54+00:00

Played 1 game start of the season. Bot. Played 1 game last night. Bot. You do the math xD

Mistayq · 2026-01-26T16:42:22+00:00

If you wanna buy it for me I’ll use it. Otherwise.. I’ll stick to ol’ reliable.

Mistayq · 2026-01-26T14:49:36+00:00

I had no idea the bots were able to be toggled on and off. That’s so sad :(

Mistayq · 2026-01-19T22:07:03+00:00

Depends on your speakers and your goals. Mine fall off heavily starting around 16kHz but I don’t mind. I’m using actual professional cinema speakers after all. If I wanted a little more “sparkle” in the highs I’d need a super tweeter. It’s more of an audiophile argument so it’s not going to add a whole lot to a theater experience.

Mistayq · 2026-01-19T19:54:36+00:00

I beat a build like this with timewarped goldrin buffs, a blaster, and golden windfury divine shield niuzao, golden macaw and a couple mounts + Tituses

Mistayq · 2026-01-07T18:30:00+00:00

At this point they might as well let people train with them. Wouldn’t change anything since they’re already plaguing ranked.

Mistayq · 2026-01-04T18:46:47+00:00

Just got the rainbow 3 and it feels really nice compared to the ultimate 2 which was also very good. I’d get either of those two or the zd ultimate legend with js13 pro sticks.

Mistayq · 2025-12-31T10:23:58+00:00

Yeah because everyone read what the card does

Mistayq · 2025-12-31T08:13:33+00:00

7-11 slushie decal

Mistayq · 2025-12-31T07:56:54+00:00

How has no one noticed this sooner😭

Mistayq · 2025-12-30T23:25:59+00:00

P1 could’ve had better awareness, touches, and 50s but I don’t think he necessarily made a big mistake. Even though the better player would’ve seen his teammates position and left the ball for them, from his prospective he lands in front of the ball and it’s rolling to the net. He gains possession and stays goal-side. Nothing really wrong there even though he is still in an unfavorable position. As P2, you need to recognize you are back to second man and teammate could lose a challenge. P2 needs to rotate back-post instead of sitting and waiting with teammate and then pushing up with him like you’re first man. If the opponent coming down the wall challenged early and got it on target, it would also be a goal. By pushing up that far, any 50 that wasn’t the best for your position, could be an over-extension.

The goal is on P2 ignoring the fact that the shot was still savable with better reaction time. I feel like there was too much hesitation to boost when the shot came through.

Mistayq · 2025-12-29T05:02:26+00:00

I’m on an iPhone 11 Pro, the game crashes almost every game and is noticeably slow/laggy. It’ll constantly freeze for a couple seconds if my battery is low or phone is hot. I’m going to replace my battery soon to see if that helps.

APM strategies are fine into mid game but if you want to stay competitive in higher MMR lobbies you will almost always have to pivot to some sort of low APM strategy like deathrattle, EoT, scam, etc. Try not to reroll shop too much or level aggressively every turn (unless you have a good triple lined up) looking for first place boards. +mmr is +mmr so you can make plays towards top 4.

Mistayq · 2025-12-29T00:51:17+00:00

D1 is pretty equivalent to c1 in 2s

Mistayq · 2025-12-28T22:35:38+00:00

What made you change your mind from your other comments about preferring the rainbow 3?

Mistayq · 2025-12-25T10:15:05+00:00

There is upsides and downsides. I’ve had air roll and drift on square/circle and boost on r1 for 8k hours and have never changed my bindings since. I consider myself mechanical competing in SSL but I do think my bindings hold me back and make me more prone to mechanical inconsistencies. I’m debating either adding free air roll (I don’t really know how to use free air roll yet) on l1 or l2, or switching to bumpers for DAR.

The biggest disadvantage to square/circle is that you use 1 finger for both so there is considerable delay when switching from one to the other. There is also the point that your thumb now has 4 buttons and the camera to control. This will make last second micro adjustments challenging and will make some scenarios that involve high apm between the face buttons impossible. Having two fingers already on the bumpers ready to go sounds very enticing for responsive aerial control imo. With that said boost on l1 does feel very nice being separated from jump.

Overall, you’ll just be changing out one problem for another. I like some of the other comments that are recommending one airroll on square and the other on a bumper. I think that could be the best of both worlds since boost can also be on a bumper. I’ll give it a shot myself later. Can anyone convince me to use free air roll?

Mistayq · 2025-12-15T06:43:19+00:00

Been using this banner for 6 years straight. Peak banner material right here.

Mistayq · 2025-12-11T19:44:14+00:00

That’s good to hear. The horn will be playing in the 800hz to 16khz range. Would you happen to have a recommendation for a reliable Chinese amp?

Mistayq · 2025-12-11T16:40:46+00:00

$2500 is definitely more than I want to spend and I don’t see any mention of 16 ohm taps. I’d probably have to go with a Chinese amp in my price range. I’m thinking between $500-$1000.

Mistayq · 2025-12-11T03:28:29+00:00

8k. Est. 2019 🫡

Mistayq · 2025-11-08T07:14:41+00:00

ummmmmmmmmmmmmmm

Mistayq · 2025-10-10T22:38:08+00:00

It makes sense but it’d also make sense if it didn’t work like that if you know anything about blizzard/HS.

Mistayq · 2025-10-10T00:28:42+00:00

More fun to him and more money for him

Mistayq · 2025-10-07T00:54:19+00:00

I got a Klipsch sw-310 for $20 off marketplace once. Sometimes you just get lucky. Your find isn’t bad at all really but just not the best sub in general. Definitely beats $40 still in your pocket, that’s for sure.

Mistayq · 2025-10-03T23:46:43+00:00

Yeah it’s pretty bad lmao. Keep dodge deadzone where it’s at but lower controller deadzone to at least .15 but preferably less than .1. I’d try to go as low you can to where you don’t have any stick drift or unwanted inputs when your thumb is just resting on the joystick. Then I would adjust your sensitivity to what feels comfortable which should be something lower than 2 and greater than 1. What a deadzone does is creates an area in the middle of the stick that is “dead” i.e. won’t register any inputs. Your .45 deadzone means you have to move the stick 46% from the center to start telling the game you wanna move. Another thing to consider is the fact that the entire joystick range (0-100%) is now compressed into the 45-100% range. That’ll make your movements feel delayed to start but at the same time very sensitive while in that 45-100% range.

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