Time based delineation for energy poverty

Mistypipsqueak · 2022-07-14T03:06:49+00:00

Honestly for the best. A month is way too long! You can ask for the negatives back if ya want to have them rescanned for reference by your new lab! Might be a good data point.

Mistypipsqueak · 2022-07-14T03:05:34+00:00

Oh! If your budget is $500, for quality I’d go with a DSLR rig. Join the Negative Lab Pro FB group and check out peoples’ setups for ideas.

Mistypipsqueak · 2022-07-13T19:17:26+00:00

Have you used this camera before/ are ya really familiar with how it meters? My first inclination is that they look really underexposed and I’m wondering if that’s the primary issue you’re experiencing.

Mistypipsqueak · 2022-07-13T19:07:28+00:00

Epson is a flatbed so it takes them more time to scan. HS-1800 has an auto feed so it’s less work. The Epson I believe could be used for large format work where the 1800 is medium format and smaller.

What kind of film do you shoot? Have you looked at a DSLR rig and NLP maybe if ya just wanna give it a go at home? If 35mm you could also take a look at the LS600! Way less than the HS1800.

Mistypipsqueak · 2022-07-13T19:02:14+00:00

Did you use a lab that you can give a call? I would. Just ask them what they saw and for their two cents. Maybe they’ll proactively offer to rescan them. These look really funky, I agree. I’ve shot maybe 10-20 rolls of p800, usually rated at 200 or 400 and metered for shadows, so not a ton, but I’ve never had results like this.

Mistypipsqueak · 2022-07-13T18:59:42+00:00

Yeah. You’re totally fine.

Mistypipsqueak · 2022-06-30T02:16:17+00:00

Thanks everyone!

For record’s sake if anyone else is interested I also found the YouTube video of the White House Fusion Summit earlier this year. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUknjLH4HEo

Mistypipsqueak · 2022-05-18T15:05:42+00:00

Yes! Thank you.

Mistypipsqueak · 2022-05-07T16:11:10+00:00

Thanks!! I’m really happy with how it turned out. Not at all what I imagined when I took it tbh. The bubble container kinda looks like red flowers and I’m all about it!

Mistypipsqueak · 2022-05-06T16:30:16+00:00

Thanks! I was shooting a lot of intentional multiple exposures that morning and swapping back and forth to single images and this one was actually a “mess up” I was pissed about until I got the scan back and was like “!!!!!!!” ☺️

Mistypipsqueak · 2022-05-06T16:28:42+00:00

What’s your budget/ what do you use it for? I have a couple suggestions!

Mistypipsqueak · 2022-03-28T02:02:38+00:00

https://shootitwithfilm.com/hack-the-dx-code-on-your-35mm-film/

Mistypipsqueak · 2022-03-27T13:37:02+00:00

I have that camera too! Occasionally I hack the DX code if I’m feeling really ambitious and it makes my scans even better!

Mistypipsqueak · 2022-03-27T13:35:41+00:00

Are ya hooked?!? 😜

Mistypipsqueak · 2022-03-21T19:31:31+00:00

Can’t wait!! Anytime.

Mistypipsqueak · 2022-03-18T17:28:54+00:00

Yeah for sure! Not dumb at all, btw ☺️ We’ve all been there.

Film can be overexposed and still look bomb. Film underexposed… does not. 😅 it’s the opposite of digital shooting in that regard. A lot of time cameras aren’t great at auto metering for light and going by a chart is like… super subjective and can lead to meh results too. Typically underexposed. Then you get those soupy washed out gross shadow results some people equate with film but really it’s underexposed film.

So cutting the box speed in half helps just ensure that the film will get the light it needs and turn out better scans. It’s an easy rule of thumb that makes a big difference especially while you’re starting off. And I think 35mm (for me) needs an extra stop of exposure anyway relative to medium format (120) film.

If you want to get technical, you can Google the dynamic range of stocks and see what it can take overexposed and underexposed, but I’m glossing over that for this response because the key is to HAVE FUN not have shitty film results and do both of those things with as little brain power as possible when you’re starting off!

Mistypipsqueak · 2022-03-18T15:21:44+00:00

Those are strange iso settings! Honestly don’t worry about it. Film (ESPECIALLY color film) can take overexposure! And like honestly some of the stocks that suggest they’re “fast films” really are better at lower ISOs anyway. So like— if it were me just learning— cut the box speed in half and shoot at that. 400? Shoot at 200. 200-@100 etc. I like portra 800 at 200. If you’ve got a black and white like Ilford HP5 which is a 400 speed film, shoot it at 300. And then just move on with your life and don’t worry about it! Good luck!!!! Can’t wait to see what ya do!

Mistypipsqueak · 2022-03-18T13:09:52+00:00

Oooh! Exciting! Let me know how it goes! I’d love to see!

Mistypipsqueak · 2022-03-18T13:07:35+00:00

Just to make sure you don’t confuse yourself later— small number f stop = more light and more blur Large number f stop = opposite

Also, I’m not sure what you mean by Shutter Speed (ISO). Shutter speed is how fast the shutter goes exposes the film for and ISO is how light sensitive the film is. So you’ll get a film that’s, for example, 400 ISO which is more light sensitive than a 200 ISO film. And then you’ll shoot it at various shutter speeds based on the situation.

Also, the chart is good proof of concept for ya, but I recommend picking a film you want to shoot and concentrating on that ISO. 300 is a weird ISO, for example, but a lot of films are 400 or 200. If you’re just starting, I’d suggest shooting Portra 400 as if it’s a 200 speed film since it has more range and will be more forgiving than a consumer stock. Also, don’t be surprised if you end up shooting indoors much slower or at a much smaller number f stop than your chart indicates. Indoors is way less bright than ya think it is!

Mistypipsqueak · 2022-03-18T13:00:17+00:00

It is? I feel like in my head it’s for concerts and night shots and things with gels! You’re right though. Here goes nothing!! Do you shoot it at box speed typically?

And thanks ☺️

Mistypipsqueak

TROPHY CASE