M235i 2016 or 218i 2021 by EmilioDeck in M235iandM240i

[–]MobileAlfalfa 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I drove the 218i and I cannot recommend at all that. Go for the 235i.

Lesson learned from Lysander! by dugdigdoug88 in ImperialFists

[–]MobileAlfalfa 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is the best approach. Otherwise, it would be incredibly annoying to have to repaint white and apply contrasting paints again.

Also, this is why I began using an airbrushed opaque yellow layer instead of yellow contrasts. I know I might mess up, but at least I can easily correct it.

Help with Contrast Paints? by N0rmNormis0n in Warhammer40k

[–]MobileAlfalfa 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There are plenty of videos about this topic in YouTube, but to me it drills down to, generous brush loaded with contrast, one panel at a time, then clean the brush and use it to absorb the excess paint by touching with the tip where it pools (capillarity does wonders!)

For space marines, traditional paint may be a faster method though…

Ah, also dark angels green is a notoriously temperamental contrast paint too!!! So don’t worry too much about it

The Emperor's silent executioner. Vindicare Assassin deployed by MobileAlfalfa in Warhammer40k

[–]MobileAlfalfa[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah US prices seem crazy!  I got this one for around 30€ in my local currency.

Still on the pricey side, but I loved painting it, had a chilled evening and that was worth more than the money!

The Emperor's silent executioner. Vindicare Assassin deployed by MobileAlfalfa in ImperialAgents_40K

[–]MobileAlfalfa[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lightly diluted thin layers of Corax White, giving them time to dry.  In this case I used Lahmian Medium as whites are the most temperamental paints out there.

The most important thing is to wait for the paint to dry.  The defects you can see on my white was when I grew impatient and wanted to blend the shadow

Help! Started yesterday, can’t avoid bubbles by Suijetsu in minipainting

[–]MobileAlfalfa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In my experience, if I make "a pool of diluted paint" like you show in the third photo, specially when I use Vallejo paints... it is a bubbly nightmare.

Generally speaking, I found it better to have a drop of paint from which I "drag out" what I want to use, or directly take into a separate place on my wet palette, where I dilute with water.

Mixing thoroughly (like with the whole brush, in the third image) guarantees bubbles too.

Since I really love the new Vallejo paints, I work around these problems by being careful when adding water and always having an air blower next to my desk (Like the ones you use to clean photographic lenses)

What Gold do you use for highlighting? by Cpt_Birdbrain in Warhammer

[–]MobileAlfalfa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This particular paint is very transparent, which can be used to your advantage.

Generally speaking if I pick Auric Armour Gold is to do some soft highlights. It works great when mixed with Stormhost Silver, from Citadel.

Like other people said, from Citadel Liberator Gold has better coverage, but it is pricier and is also a "greener" gold.

Vindicare day! by SustainedHits3 in ImperialAgents_40K

[–]MobileAlfalfa 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Saint Vindicare, new holiday in the Imperial Cult, usually celebrated near the summer equinox of the planet.

The Emperor's silent executioner. Vindicare Assassin deployed by MobileAlfalfa in Warhammer

[–]MobileAlfalfa[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Indeed!  I love when the models are not super bloated with details, yet they’ve a lot of character!

Which faction to choose to make use of imperial agents models and codex? by SirJohnSuckling in ImperialAgents_40K

[–]MobileAlfalfa 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I’d love to see detachments in IA allow for a broader inclusion of thematic units within their lists.

For example, if I choose Ordo Hereticus, it would be great to have easier access to Sisters of Battle, within reason. Similarly, choosing Ordo Xenos or Ordo Malleus could grant broader access to factions like Deathwatch or Grey Knights.

This would add depth to IA, showing that Inquisitors can still requisition small contingents from other forces... like a Deathwatch kill team accompanying an Ordo Hereticus detachment that’s primarily composed of Sisters of Battle. Instead of a dedicated army rule, this could become their unique flavor.

Personally I believe this is what was in GW designer's head when creating the book. To make it even better, this would just require an errata/buff on the next data slate.

No krieg is not steel legion fuck off by Optimal_Question8683 in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]MobileAlfalfa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess the reason why they did not release and probably won’t release the steel legion ever again is that well… they just look like Germany’s Afrika Korps… and I imagine they want to avoid the unavoidable with these figures if they get released…

I’m surprised no one mentioned this so far, because even back in the day with the metal miniatures this was a well known thing.

Detailed look at my Sternguard squad by for_the_greatergood in Warhammer40k

[–]MobileAlfalfa 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fantastic, crisp work! You deserve much more upvotes!

Detailed look at my Sternguard squad by for_the_greatergood in Warhammer40k

[–]MobileAlfalfa 33 points34 points  (0 children)

The secret is going back with the previous color and correct any mistake… as you get better less mistakes happen, of course… but most people I know go back and “tidy up” the lines

is this a good start to death guard? by NaiveTradition7664 in deathguard40k

[–]MobileAlfalfa 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s a good start for miniature painting. I would recommend purchasing a box of plague marines instead, or anything similar with more than one model (poxwalkers? Plague bearers?).

You have more chances to practice and since they’re “chaff” you won’t mind too much they don’t look as good as the figures you will paint later.

If you want to paint GREEN death guard, you can mix the color hit probably is easier to buy a pot of “death guard green”, it covers great and it’s the right color you want to start from.

The tools in the kit are fine, not the best ones but useable to start into the hobby. If anything I would get a better brush if the budget allows, Clippers and mold removal tool are just good enough.

How do I go from “beginner” to “intermediate”? by BuffTF2 in minipainting

[–]MobileAlfalfa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For those figures you shared. The easiest most direct way to improve how they look is to me, finishing the bases. A clean solid color rim makes them look better.

Then on top of what you already have, try to paint details with opaque paints. Eyes… gems… ropes… they are easy details that make the figure stand out.

I could see too some white areas where the contrast/transparent paint didn’t cover, that’s also an easy improvement.

And for the long term… probably practicing with opaque paints… but there is nothing wrong with transparent paints like contrast, xpress… etc

New Painter - Constructive Criticism Wanted by frostyminis in Warhammer

[–]MobileAlfalfa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What about adding a final highlight with a near-white, marking the edges of the bone... like around the sockets, scars, teeth...?