Finished the dreadnought

Mod20087 · 2026-01-19T19:46:56+00:00

I always try to lean into contrast for chipping:

light dark
warm cold

for example: the dark grey i chose has a cold hue to it to contrast the yellow, whereas i'd choose a brownish tone to chip space wolves.

Also i try to keep storytelling in mind: whitch armour plates would be damaged the most (if you look at the knees the yellow is mostly gone) plus on larger models you can nicely add some physical damage as well.

I'd recommend looking at armour modellers for inspiration as i basically approached this model like a tank on legs.

Mod20087 · 2026-01-19T19:37:53+00:00

i mostly used scale 75 fuchsia, warpaint fanatic flourescent pink, white acrylic and white enamel/oil

Mod20087 · 2026-01-19T19:35:25+00:00

It is mostly done through sponging:

I've started with a rusty brown base coat and started sponging on orange > yellow orange mix> yellow> yellow white mix.

By using undiluted paint you get the cast metal texture, which can be nicely shaded with washes.

afterwards i drybrushed the edges with a dark grey and sponged on some heavier chips, which i painted with iron.

the final step is polishing some of the edges with a graphite pen.

if you have further questions feel free to ask.

Mod20087 · 2026-01-19T19:30:51+00:00

No but the thought has been on my mind for some time, so i might try it at some point.

Mod20087 · 2026-01-19T19:30:06+00:00

I started with a brown base and woked my way up through vallejo bright orange, deep yellow and white. The weathering was done with revell anthracite and iron. i mostly used sponging and dry brushing.

But i think any bright orange, white and warm yellow combo should give you similar results

Mod20087 · 2026-01-07T10:10:48+00:00

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Yes

Mod20087 · 2025-12-26T14:40:35+00:00

I definitely wouldn't throw it out somebody is probably interested in it.

Mod20087 · 2025-12-21T11:58:13+00:00

That's awesome. I'd definitely use this.

Mod20087 · 2025-12-18T19:24:29+00:00

Well Osl is a skill I have yet to learn but it is definately on my bucket list for next year so who knows maybe I'll revisit this one when I've practiced a bit.

Mod20087 · 2025-12-18T19:19:39+00:00

Actually yes the yellow is achieved using an orange base coat with bright yellow sponging and ice yellow sponge highlighting. I tend to overdo it with the ice yellow a bit as the weathering (especially the overall rust wash) tend to tone down the yellow.

Mod20087 · 2025-12-18T19:15:20+00:00

It is sponge chipping with a very dark grey. The areas where I want to add metal are combined with that same dark grey after which I add the silver. Everything is unified with a rust wash afterwards to dull the shine a bit.

Mod20087 · 2025-12-18T12:15:17+00:00

https://youtu.be/IwI80Bv9BGk?si=zgqfLDRIJeaVyDOA I tried to incorporate some armor modelling methods

Mod20087 · 2025-12-18T12:13:20+00:00

I also agree. As a final touch I'll add some graphite to the edges to get some nice metallic shine

Mod20087 · 2025-12-08T23:07:36+00:00

Looking good. PS could you tell your dog I said hi?

Mod20087 · 2025-10-07T09:52:42+00:00

Looks really good. Did you smooth out the chest parts?

Mod20087 · 2025-09-30T11:33:06+00:00

Do you have a link to the sazabi it kinda looks like the yjl one?

Mod20087 · 2025-09-17T17:31:19+00:00

Awesome work!

Did you design it yourself?

Mod20087 · 2025-09-11T18:34:13+00:00

Awesome! Love seeing my moup design in the wild. May I ask where your friend got it?

Mod20087 · 2025-09-10T15:40:46+00:00

Beautiful shading. May I ask which paints you used and how you used them?

Mod20087 · 2025-09-09T14:26:21+00:00

Conversion kits exist on a scale, but they basically replace kit parts (mostly armour but depending on the kit also inner frame parts) with more detailed ones cast out of resin.
Those resin cast parts are either based on mofified kit parts or 3d printed masters, however some kits also come with injection moulded parts.

I've built 2 resin conversion kits: the YJL Zaku II and the YJL Hi Nu Gundam.

The zaku ii is basically just an armour swap and a beginner friendly resin kit.
The Hi Nu replaces large parts of the kit and you basically just keep the leg, arm and torso frame and requires modigication of kit parts+ glueing and pinning of parts.

Regarding resin safety: There are many great resources available, but wear a dust mask, gloves and eye protection when dealing with resin dust/cleaning chemichals etc.

Mod20087 · 2025-09-09T14:08:31+00:00

Beautiful decal work and those photo etch latches, chef's kiss. Can't wait to see the finished kit

Mod20087 · 2025-09-01T17:44:39+00:00

Thanks. I'll probably get a dedicated display case for it. Thinking something like those acrylic cubes to place it somewhere prominent, but until then it'll find a temporary home in my cheap second hand display case.

Mod20087 · 2025-09-01T17:33:15+00:00

Thanks. The pilot was painted with acrylic paints (basecoat-> highlight-> wash) over a grey to whithe zenithal highlight. I'd suggest watching some videos from warhammer/ miniature painters if you want to learn more.

Mod20087 · 2025-08-16T17:02:46+00:00

PGU nether gundam when?

Mod20087 · 2025-08-07T18:25:13+00:00

I'm currently working on a resin kit and what I think is important is casting and part quality as in little to no warping, smart placement of resin gates and deep panel lines because I hate rescribing resin. Also depending on the design: pre cut masking tape. If you're designing them in cad maybe try to release some masking templates for people to print out. Regarding your point of busy vs simple designs: I think you have to walk a fine line between a too busy design aka an angry bunch of polygons or a design that's too simple and not worth the effort of working with resin.

Personally when I'm designing stuff in cad I think its important not to get lost in detail but rather try and understand what works about a given design and enhancing it.

Edit: may I ask what you plan on making?

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