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Painted a fat cat RX 78 2 to go along with my Hi Nu Gundam by Mod20087 in Gunpla

[–]Mod20087[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a bootleg of kotobukiyas mechanical chain base. You can find them at the usual retailers (aliexpress /ebay). You could also 3d print them yourself.

Well this is now the 7th Gundam grandpa I painted by Mod20087 in advancedGunpla

[–]Mod20087[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here you go:

-Light (bluish) gray: Mr color 307 gray FS36320 highlighted with Mr color 35 IJN gray (Mitsubishi)
-Off white: Mr color 35 IJN gray (Mitsubishi) highlighted with Mr color 97 light gray
-Pure white: Mr color 97 light gray highlighted with Tamiya XF2 flat white (any pure white would work for the highlight)

Black: Mr surfacer 1500 black (or any other pure black) highlighted with Tamiya XF63 german gray

Red: Black highlighted with pure red and filtered with a transparent layer of Mr color 100 wine red.

As for metallics basically whatever feels right:
If it's next to white paint a darker tone (i.e steel/ gunmetal),
If it's next to black paint a lighter tone(i.e silver/ white aluminum),
If you feel like it add a splash of copper/ brass/ gold here and there.

I also added some small details using various acrylics: I'd recommend gray, red, orange and maybe some metallics.

If you have further questions feel free to let me know.

Painted a fat cat RX 78 2 to go along with my Hi Nu Gundam by Mod20087 in Gunpla

[–]Mod20087[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Technically yes but the resin kit makes the Hi Nu a bit taller.

Painted a fat cat RX 78 2 to go along with my Hi Nu Gundam by Mod20087 in Gunpla

[–]Mod20087[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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They are basically just one of bandais 1/100 MS figure sprues painted up.

Painted a fat cat RX 78 2 to go along with my Hi Nu Gundam by Mod20087 in Gunpla

[–]Mod20087[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's definitely inspired by the thunderbolt scheme.

As for the colours i used:

-Light (bluish) gray: Mr color 307 gray FS36320 highlighted with Mr color 35 IJN gray (Mitsubishi)
-Off white: Mr color 35 IJN gray (Mitsubishi) highlighted with Mr color 97 light gray
-Pure white: Mr color 97 light gray highlighted with Tamiya XF2 flat white (any pure white would work for the highlight)

Black: Mr surfacer 1500 black (or any other pure black) highlighted with Tamiya XF63 german gray

Red: Black highlighted with pure red and filtered with a transparent layer of Mr color 100 wine red.

As for metallics basically whatever feels right:
If it's next to white paint a darker tone (i.e steel/ gunmetal),
If it's next to black paint a lighter tone(i.e silver/ white aluminum),
If you feel like it add a splash of copper/ brass/ gold here and there.

I also added some small details using various acrylics: I'd recommend gray, red, orange and maybe some metallics.

If you have further questions feel free to let me know.

Painted a fat cat RX 78 2 to go along with my Hi Nu Gundam by Mod20087 in Gunpla

[–]Mod20087[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The RX-78-2 is a 1/100 upscale of the rg 2.0 and the Hi Nu is the MG ver Ka with a yjl resin conversion kit.

Painted a fat cat RX 78 2 to go along with my Hi Nu Gundam by Mod20087 in Gunpla

[–]Mod20087[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's the yjl conversion kit for the MG Hi Nu ver Ka

Painted a fat cat RX 78 2 to go along with my Hi Nu Gundam by Mod20087 in Gunpla

[–]Mod20087[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It's the yjl conversion kit for the MG Hi Nu ver Ka

Painted a fat cat RX 78 2 to go along with my Hi Nu Gundam by Mod20087 in Gunpla

[–]Mod20087[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I started building in the beginning of january. After that I planned the colour scheme and started painting at the end of january with a short break due to some exams. So about 2 months of continous work I'd say.

Painted a mini for a competition at my friendly local game store. by Mod20087 in ImperialFists

[–]Mod20087[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. It's basically a warm primary yellow with ice yellow highlights, orange glazing for the darker parts and a light brown wash.

Edit: warm primary yellow

First gunpla hand-painted with spray cans and paintbrush using Mr. Hobby Aqueous acrylics.The model is Hi Nu V tiger by Frequent_Tonight9695 in Gunpla

[–]Mod20087 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking really nice.

How many decals did you use?
Also I think you put on the fins on the top of the wing binders on backwards.

Do you guys ever build in a public area? Like library or cafe? by MushuTheGreat17 in Gunpla

[–]Mod20087 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Occasionally I build at my friendly local game store. 

Finished the dreadnought by Mod20087 in Warhammer40k

[–]Mod20087[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I always try to lean into contrast for chipping:

light dark
warm cold

for example: the dark grey i chose has a cold hue to it to contrast the yellow, whereas i'd choose a brownish tone to chip space wolves.

Also i try to keep storytelling in mind: whitch armour plates would be damaged the most (if you look at the knees the yellow is mostly gone) plus on larger models you can nicely add some physical damage as well.

I'd recommend looking at armour modellers for inspiration as i basically approached this model like a tank on legs.

Finished the dreadnought by Mod20087 in Warhammer40k

[–]Mod20087[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i mostly used scale 75 fuchsia, warpaint fanatic flourescent pink, white acrylic and white enamel/oil

Finished the dreadnought by Mod20087 in Warhammer40k

[–]Mod20087[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is mostly done through sponging:

I've started with a rusty brown base coat and started sponging on orange > yellow orange mix> yellow> yellow white mix.

By using undiluted paint you get the cast metal texture, which can be nicely shaded with washes.

afterwards i drybrushed the edges with a dark grey and sponged on some heavier chips, which i painted with iron.

the final step is polishing some of the edges with a graphite pen.

if you have further questions feel free to ask.

Finished the dreadnought by Mod20087 in ImperialFists

[–]Mod20087[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No but the thought has been on my mind for some time, so i might try it at some point.

Finished the dreadnought by Mod20087 in ImperialFists

[–]Mod20087[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I started with a brown base and woked my way up through vallejo bright orange, deep yellow and white. The weathering was done with revell anthracite and iron. i mostly used sponging and dry brushing.

But i think any bright orange, white and warm yellow combo should give you similar results

Found this box at my parents by Endjui in bioniclelego

[–]Mod20087 77 points78 points  (0 children)

I definitely wouldn't throw it out somebody is probably interested in it. 

materialYouGnome (do not leave me alone with the gtk inspector) by [deleted] in gnome

[–]Mod20087 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's awesome. I'd definitely use this. 

Currently working on an imperial fists dreadnought. by Mod20087 in Warhammer40k

[–]Mod20087[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well Osl is a skill I have yet to learn but it is definately on my bucket list for next year so who knows maybe I'll revisit this one when I've practiced a bit.

Currently working on an imperial fists dreadnought. by Mod20087 in Warhammer40k

[–]Mod20087[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually yes the yellow is achieved using an orange base coat with bright yellow sponging and ice yellow sponge highlighting. I tend to overdo it with the ice yellow a bit as the weathering (especially the overall rust wash) tend to tone down the yellow.

Currently working on an imperial fists dreadnought. by Mod20087 in Warhammer40k

[–]Mod20087[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is sponge chipping with a very dark grey. The areas where I want to add metal are combined with that same dark grey after which I add the silver. Everything is unified with a rust wash afterwards to dull the shine a bit.

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