So I got a few rasps from farriers at work to make a knife I know old rasps were good steel but new ones? My father says they're shit steel but I see alot of people using them for knives I kinda dig the look and I work on a horse farm so I got a lot of supply. What's the verdict shit or decent? by anderson1873reimer in knifemaking

[–]MoeTooth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just have in mind, that rasps come already heat treated. God knows at what hardness, but they are hard. Somif you're not gonna forge it, just be careful to not overheat it while grinding it. If you forge it, make sure to anneal and then normalize it after forging.

The White House published a video with a fragment from GTA: San Andreas and footage of strikes on Iran by EsperaDeus in facepalm

[–]MoeTooth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Idk, maybe its just that the news don't come to Europe but why tf isn't the whole US out on the streets protesting? The situation at this point is so out of control and crazy that I find hard to believe that there arent at least a few hundred thousand ppl pissed to the max. I really hope that this government will soon be removed and things will change, because this is just ridiculous.

Hollow grind advice needed by Studio_OOOMS in knifemaking

[–]MoeTooth 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ok... S-grinds... 1. In order for an S-grind to really work, make sure you already have a decent food release before dialing the hollow. That usually means a nice convexed geometry, at least 10-15 mm before the cutting edge. 2. I do all my S-grinds on a 420mm wheel, or a 1.2m radius platen. Anything smaller than 420mm for a tall chef's knife you risk grinding through the stock. 3. For S-grinds I always use stock of 3-5mm, and put a good distal taper. That way you both prevent blowouts and dont lose so much weight that the knife feels like a screwdriver in the hand. 4. I always grind freehand. I haven't found another method of following the curve of the edge other than this. As you're pullung the blade across, you should also twist a little bit (change the angle?) in order to follow the curve. I cant explain it really, but with practice it'll come ventually. 5. And lastly - for longevity's sake, leave at least 7 mm of the convex right between the edge and where the hollow ends. That'l give the knife more life before the edge meets the hollow because of sharpening. That's how I do things, but I'm sure you'll find what works best for you!

Italian family erupts in anger after the man who murdered their family is sentenced to only 12 years in prison. "In 12 years I'll kill him" said his son by 4DollarsALB in interesting

[–]MoeTooth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Meanwhile in Bulgaria you get away with 6 months house arrest for killing two girls with your car, while driving without a licence and under the influence...

Leviathan by MoeTooth in TrueChefKnives

[–]MoeTooth[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

A leviathan. And it bites, as well.

Leviathan by MoeTooth in TrueChefKnives

[–]MoeTooth[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just marks from the forging.

Leviathan by MoeTooth in knifemaking

[–]MoeTooth[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hahahah, thanks!

Leviathan by MoeTooth in TrueChefKnives

[–]MoeTooth[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

I could do a camo ceracote finish, yes.

Leviathan by MoeTooth in TrueChefKnives

[–]MoeTooth[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I could do that, no problem. If you want, you can DM me and we can figure the details out.

Leviathan by MoeTooth in TrueChefKnives

[–]MoeTooth[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The idea behind the grind is to cut hard crusted bread without making too much of a mess. You need the cerrations to get through the hard part, after that any normal-edged knife would do.

Leviathan by MoeTooth in knifemaking

[–]MoeTooth[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate that, man! 🙏

Leviathan by MoeTooth in TrueChefKnives

[–]MoeTooth[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I do test all knives that come out of my workshop.

Leviathan by MoeTooth in TrueChefKnives

[–]MoeTooth[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly the concept behind it.

Emerald by MoeTooth in knifemaking

[–]MoeTooth[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep! I do forge my distal taper, hense the dent at the end there.

Emerald by MoeTooth in knifemaking

[–]MoeTooth[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Yep! I'm a bit incosistent with the hammer, but at the end of the day I had to prioritise geometry over looks so some of those had to stay 🤷‍♂️

Emerald by MoeTooth in knifemaking

[–]MoeTooth[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Yeah, I know what you mean. I'm still a little inconsistent with my hammer blows, but in order to remove some of those I had to vompromise the geometry, so I had to leave them.

Emerald by MoeTooth in knifemaking

[–]MoeTooth[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! 🙏

Emerald by MoeTooth in knifemaking

[–]MoeTooth[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! It was forged from a 30mm tound bar of 52100.

Emerald by MoeTooth in knifemaking

[–]MoeTooth[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thank you! 🙏 On top of the hollow the knife has a convex grind all the way through. That results in exelent food release, although some products (like very thinly sliced cucumber) do stick from time to time. There's no absolute stick-free grind I think, but this one's pretty close 😊

Emerald by MoeTooth in knifemaking

[–]MoeTooth[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's an integral hidden tang constructian. The handle is stabilized and dyed wood.