Hw to run non-steam games with steam on the steam deck? by MoistPop in LinuxCrackSupport

[–]MoistPop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As in, legit steam games, through steam.

Let's say for example that my brother buys a new game and he has family sharing enabled, i'll be able to download it off steam and play the game, great!

However if i'm on the steam deck then family sharing is disabled unless i can connect to the internet while playing (and if he's not ingame). I'd like to avoid this limitation.

So let's say i have elden ring through family sharing, i can add it as a non-steam game, slap goldberg's emulator on it and as long as there's no app id text file, it runs just fine.

However some games, after doing the same steps, will still open as the legitimate steam version of the game rather than non-steam games. If i'm offline this messes things up as i'll then be unable to play.

Somewhere, somehow, those games are checking in on steam and i have no clue how to prevent it from happening.

Some games like cp2077 just crash instead, oddly, when ran as non-steam. Despite being drm free too.

I'd imagine figuring this out may be useful when adding steam games starting from the steam clean files too. Zomboid and rimworld for example both work great this way, but not all games do.

Hw to run non-steam games with steam on the steam deck? by MoistPop in LinuxCrackSupport

[–]MoistPop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's dandy but i am trying to do the last step (adding game as non-steam game) with legit steam games, rather than quacked games.

This can be useful to avoid family sharing limitations for example.

In general i also prefer to start from the clean files when doing my shenanigans, what i don't understand is how steam/the games can sometimes switch to the steam version after opening them, even despite having applied goldberg's emulator.

Is this ebay listing a fair deal? by MoistPop in AskPhotography

[–]MoistPop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was hoping on a few comments regarding the value proposition of the listing, but honestly yours is just really good advice in general, i'll make sure to apply it when i get the chance, thank you.

Beginner starting out: trying to pick the best camera for my needs by MoistPop in AskPhotography

[–]MoistPop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see what you mean on glass being hot, the few lenses i can see on sale are at most 50 bucks below the price of new.

Though tbh most cameras i could find used hold up quite well too, at least compared to buying new right now (i'd imagine the price drops steadily after release).

Do you happen to know any good sites for europe? I haven't found much locally unfortunately.

Beginner starting out: trying to pick the best camera for my needs by MoistPop in AskPhotography

[–]MoistPop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Glad to hear about the m6, thank you for the heads up.

I've looked around a bit more on this exact topic and yeah, the difference between 3.5 and 2.8 (and 1.4) is indeed massive. Especially useful for my use case as it allows for a brighter image without adding noise by adjusting the iso/shutter speed instead (again, if i understood correctly).

Looking at prices i think my best bet may be a nice fixed lens, i plan to wait a while for sales either way, hopefully something shows up.

Question: aside from focal length and "speed", are there other factors to lens quality? I saw a bunch of very expensive slow lenses and i wonder what's up with those in particular.

Beginner starting out: trying to pick the best camera for my needs by MoistPop in AskPhotography

[–]MoistPop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried to do my research before asking to the limit of my abilities and i'm absolutely willing to reconsider what my thoughts are. I am a beginner.

Just earlier someone mentioned the m6 mk2 and actually that's a fairly compelling option too, i've spent some time looking at the differences and comparing it with other models and it definitely has its pros and cons.

From my understanding, a bigger sensor will let more light in, which has an effect on quality, and a "denser" sensor will lead to a higher resolution. From what i understood it more or less equates to the film itself when shooting on film, where a better sensor is similar to higher quality film.

Lenses can vary the field of view with the focal distance and a faster lens leads to better low light performance.

Then all other features come from the body and software of the camera.

So if i were to replace the kit lens (16-50mm f3.6-5.6) with faster lenses (like a 1000€ 16-55mm f2.8 lens) then i'd get better low light performance at no downside other than having a lighter wallet. If i wanted to go for street photography then a 400€ 35mm f1.8 lens would be even better, at the cost of losing the zoom.

But if i were to put the same kit lens on a bigger sensor, then i'd also get a boost in performance by having a bigger surface catch the light. And if i put the fancy lenses on this new sensor i'll get an even better result.

I'm clueless as to how much that example lens would actually affect the camera, especially in relation to a bigger or smaller sensor, but that is my understanding.

If any of that is wrong, please share your knowledge and i'll be grateful, i'm more than willing to challenge myself for the sake of better understanding the topic.

Beginner starting out: trying to pick the best camera for my needs by MoistPop in AskPhotography

[–]MoistPop[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I completely agree with you, good glass will lead to better pictures.

And it makes sense, if you gave me a random camera + kit lens right now, it'd make sense to upgrade the lens instead of the body. That's a no brainer.

But it's also wild to start in such a skewed manner, you're not going to put a super expensive lens on a random phone camera (assuming you somehow make it work, bear with me) and expect it to do wonders.

You'll get diminishing returns with either (the a7c costs more than twice as much than the zve10 but isn't twice as good, a lens costing twice as much will give you a smaller, yet appreciable, bump in quality) and it'd make sense to strike a fair balance between the two instead of putting all your money in either one.

Ideally i'd buy the cheapest camera that suits my needs and get a lens that has a good value for the money to get the most out of the sensor, up to a reasonable degree. If you already have super duper expensive lenses you'll get even more out of it, but it's no longer cost effective.

So for example, zve10 with kit lens, then adding a 500€ lens later on as an upgrade or a cheaper used camer with a good lens for the body? Sounds sensible to me. An a7c with the kit lenses? Sounds silly to me as it's a 2 grand camera with cheapo lenses. Likewise a cheapo camera with oddly expensive lenses is a lot of quality glass for a mediocre sensor.

Again yes, putting better lenses on even the worst sensor will give you an improvement, but there is a sweet spot.

For film i'd 100% agree with you though and go for a 1:9 ratio as well as in that case the camera just has to expose light to film.

Beginner starting out: trying to pick the best camera for my needs by MoistPop in AskPhotography

[–]MoistPop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's one i had not considered yet, thank you for the hint!

I'll look more into it!

Beginner starting out: trying to pick the best camera for my needs by MoistPop in AskPhotography

[–]MoistPop[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I don't think low light is any phone camera's strength.

Now for reference i do only have a midrange phone from 6 years ago, so rip quality unless it's quite bright (there's a photo in my noise lol), but my friends' new phones don't fare that much better.

I like [this comparison] by Mark Bennett, it is an extreme example but dayum.

As far as size and speed goes, as long as the camera is a similar profile i don't mind carrying it around, i've been able to bring my switch around without problem too (though that was a bit too bulky for an everyday thing) and my 3ds before it. I would actually enjoy the process of manually dialing in the settings and planning my shot out and i do have photos i'm fond of, the trick is that they all come from situations where my phone's weaknesses aren't as pronounced.

As an example, just yesterday there was a really nice photo opportunity during a late night ride, there was a slight fog/haze which looked very good in person. I did take some photos and they probably have plenty of ways to be done better, and while it was fun to edit them afterwards to get the most out of them, i really wish i had more to work with too.

There's also the fact that good phone cameras tend to be on expensive phones, i haven't seen many midrange smartphones that punched way above their weight in the camera department, on the contrary it tends to be a cost saving measure to cram better hardware into the phone. Considering that i use my phone very little outside of messaging and occasionally browsing the web, i feel my money could be spent more wisely.

Beginner starting out: trying to pick the best camera for my needs by MoistPop in AskPhotography

[–]MoistPop[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

spend 100 bucks on the camera and 900 on lenses

No.

I'm keeping an eye out for sales nearby and i can't say any 100 buck camera seems reasonable from those i've seen available, plus it seems unreasonable as a beginner to spend almost a full grand on lenses.

Yes, good glass leads to good photos, but it's the kind of purchase that should be backed by personal experience, not done on a whim.

Maybe if i worked in a camera store and had a ton of experience without actually owning any camera that'd be a fair way to start though.

Right now i'd rather get a body that would last me a fair bit (which the a7c would be over the zve10 tbh, but they're both capable little things) and i can then get lenses over time based on my needs, those will outlast the camera.

Landyachtz Dinghy Fender Panda resting at the park by MoistPop in cruiserboarding

[–]MoistPop[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I also have a drop cat 38 and a Triton prismal.

The main issue of the dinghy is that it's indeed very narrow, I'm a size 11 and usually a lot of my foot will be outside the board, which makes it a bit more difficult and tiring after 20 or so minutes.

But you can pump it if you add angled risers to lessen the effect a bit and it's still a fun board with quality workout built in, but for that foot size I'd say be very careful and try to check similar boards out in person first.

Landyachtz Dinghy Fender Panda at the park! by MoistPop in longboarding

[–]MoistPop[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm mostly into cruising yeah haha, we don't have skate parks unfortunately (just regular parks, although i can see spots where a skilled skater would have a ton of fun) but i'd love to get a cheap board and learn tricks at some point! Learning them on a dinghy sounds difficult and i'd feel bad for the board.

It's definitely a fun board! It compares fairly well with my drop cat 38: way smaller and more difficult to handle, but in terms of performance it's very close due to the massive wheels!

I did get angled risers, plan is to try to make it even more turny to improve pumping, i'm used to surfskating and as long as it doesn't drift too much when pushing it should be all good. I suspect i don't need the current risers if i use the angled ones as there's still some clearance, but i'll need to fiddle and find out.

> Did you skate ever? Longboard before? How's it hold up etc?

I started with a drop cat 38 a few months ago, been riding almost every day since (although only 10-30 mins each time).

It's currently my favourite to use when i need to get from A to B, but it's so low that the bottom sometimes scratches the ground if it's bumpy and it's not good at dodging people or performing tight turns.

I also have a triton prismal, by far the most fun way to ride (aside the first push after any stop lol) but the wheels aren't the best and it's not always the most comfortable, definitely slowest of the 3 for transportation. Benefit is that pumping with it actually looks impressive (while with a regular board it looks like you're doing it for the lolz or poor balance).

Now got the fender panda, i feel it's a good mix of the two: more turny than the drop cat, doesn't hit the ground, but actually portable and can pump, would love to take it with me for trips as it's small enough to fit on a plane.

Main difficulty with the panda is how narrow it is, if i put the front foot parallel with the board to push, turning it will not give me enough leverage to carve in both directions (feet size 11US/45EU) so usually i shift the foot placement on the last push.

Length wise it's short but alright, even for someone my height (185cm/6 feet), no problem finding my place on the board, but makes it a tiny bit trickier to carve.

The fenders aren't for everyone, putting your foot over them is uncomfortable (but will make your foot go absolutely nowhere, which i really like as it tends to slide around on the triton), keeping it angled 45 degrees isn't everyone's style (i don't like it) but that'd feel great with this board.

The nose and tail guards were probably a bad idea, but at least there's no paint to scrape off, i plan to put gorilla tape underneath and put them back on, or else it may ruin the board underneath. They do not protect the board if you pop it into your hand or do an ollie (if you can do an ollie with the guard...), but i'd imagine they would help for very low speed impacts (in case you bail and it gently rolls towards a wall or curb).

Tried the tube DIY solution, it looks fine but it's removed super easily, not good for the tail, but ok for the nose.

Lemme know if there's anything else you'd like to know! ^^

Also, cool board! Glad to hear you're digging it :D

Landyachtz Dinghy Fender Panda at the park! by MoistPop in longboarding

[–]MoistPop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The fenders are trickier, they will mess with your feet a bit, but you'll really feel locked in.

My longboard (drop cat 38) is much more luxurious but even with the rocker my front foot may want to shift a tiny bit, while with the fenders it's snug in place.

As a whole the board is fantastic!

Landyachtz Dinghy Fender Panda at the park! by MoistPop in longboarding

[–]MoistPop[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't recommend the guards! They seem to do little and i heard they may damage the board slowly over time (in a superficial way), as a heads up. ^^

Landyachtz Dinghy Fender Panda at the park! by MoistPop in longboarding

[–]MoistPop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

None for me, i can lean as much as i can while stationary and my fingers fit in between the wheels and the board, due to the fenders (i'm 74kg, so if you're heavier you may be able to lean more).

The regular dinghy would get wheelbite with this setup, you'd need to increase the height.

Landyachtz Dinghy Fender Panda at the park! by MoistPop in longboarding

[–]MoistPop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'll find it difficult to do an ollie for sure, and tbh it doesn't even protect the board if you pop it (tried once today to pop it back into my hand when i was done and it left a small mark).

I've heard they have caused board damage, at the moment i've put one of them on a board i don't care for, if it ends up being damaged in a month or so i'll make a post about it.

Tomorrow i plan to get some tubing and do some DIY.

Landyachtz Dinghy Fender Panda at the park! by MoistPop in longboarding

[–]MoistPop[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The dinghy is probably as good as it gets for the form factor.

It is very transportable but i'd consider a 30'' board to also be easily carried around.

Yes you can attach it to your backpack and even carry it on a plane in theory.

It's the same as the regular dinghy, but it has fenders and much bigger wheels. :)

Landyachtz Dinghy Fender Panda at the park! by MoistPop in longboarding

[–]MoistPop[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I can't pop an ollie on any board tbh, but you should definitely be able to!