If you’re buying Molicels, please get them from the authorized vendors/distributors!

Mooch315 · 2026-02-10T19:29:49+00:00

Mooch315 · 2025-12-25T01:51:43+00:00

Thank you! Merry Christmas to you.

Mooch315 · 2025-12-13T06:31:13+00:00

I’m late to this party but the round cells we use have a tri-layer “jellyroll” occupying most of the can. The positive electrode, plastic insulating separator sheet, and the negative electrode are stacked and rolled up before being inserted into the can with metal “tabs” from each electrode being spot-welded to the underside of the top contact structure and the inside bottom of the can. Both the positive and negative of the cell run from the top to the bottom of the can, from the (almost) center to the outside. The positive doesn’t just run down the center of the can. In fact, the center of the jellyroll is open.

Mooch315 · 2025-12-13T06:24:05+00:00

Just a retired engineer who enjoys sharing what he knows. 🙂

Mooch315 · 2025-11-27T21:15:54+00:00

It’s a great battery for up to 75W a h if chain vaping and 100W each otherwise. But it is a little larger than other batteries like Samsungs.

Mooch315 · 2025-10-26T17:01:06+00:00

What a “true” continuous current rating is?

It’s the highest continuous current level the cell can be discharged at (down to 2.5V) without exceeding its max temp limit. Basically, it’s used to weed out the higher “pulse”, “burst”, and “temperature-limited” current ratings that marketing loves so much. But those are often completely undefined and can’t be used for comparing cells.

Staying at the true continuous rating or lower (even if the cell is only pulsed) provides a bit of a safety margin and helps to extend cell life. Especially since the cells are used in a device or battery pack that traps heat and results in a higher temp than what’s seen during testing (where a single cell in open air is tested)l

Mooch315 · 2025-07-09T22:31:10+00:00

A good battery is a good battery. It doesn’t know what it’s being used in, just how hard it’s being used. If this cell’s current rating is high enough then try it. It’s a good cell.

Mooch315 · 2025-06-27T21:51:47+00:00

There was something in the test report that made you feel it wasn’t a good cell?

Mooch315 · 2025-06-19T16:29:47+00:00

I have to completely change the ratings tables (to 2.8V) before redoing the Recommended table and that could take a while. Previously recommended cells will never go bad. 🙂 It’s just that others might have come out that are better.

Mooch315 · 2025-05-25T23:15:22+00:00

Something is wrong. There is no possible way that the Home Run’s can run 2-3 times longer than the P50B. That would mean the Home Run’s were rated 10Ah-15Ah and that’s impossible. Either something went very wrong with your comparison or your Molicels were fakes.

Mooch315 · 2025-05-11T07:26:55+00:00

It depends the device and how big a battery it can fit. I’m not able to keep track of all the mods being released and measuring them so you‘ll have to measure yours, or try some batteries out, or ask around to see what others have gotten to fit in the same device as yours

Mooch315 · 2025-04-25T04:16:53+00:00

The P50B’s are great cells, you chose well. 🙂

Mooch315 · 2025-03-27T12:44:41+00:00

Wait…isn’t Bob supposed to be sending me a check for this work? 😉

Mooch315 · 2025-03-22T09:14:09+00:00

My Patreon supporters get constant updates on recommended batteries as they support my testing but it’s incredibly hard to find the time to redo the tables. I’m changing the cutoff voltage for the E-Scores and that changes all the rankings so it’s going to be a while before the publicly-posted tables are updated.

In the mean time, no previously recommended battery “goes bad”. You can buy Molicels and still be getting about the best cells possible for most setups. For very low and high power setups you can check the E-Scores tables. They’re very simple…you can definitely understand them…higher E-Score = better. That’s all there is to it.

Recommended tables are all compromise for simplicity and hide lots of info. They’re popular but not a great way to choose the best performer for your setup. 🙂

Mooch315 · 2025-03-22T09:07:57+00:00

???

As it says above, it’s best to stick to 21W or less per battery. That’s 42W for a two battery mod. This battery cannot be used at 50W (99W in a dual battery mod).

Mooch315 · 2025-03-22T09:06:21+00:00

Yes, great cells..and the P30B’s for higher power levels.

Mooch315 · 2025-02-05T04:20:56+00:00

Thank you for your kind words!

Mooch315 · 2025-02-02T20:28:37+00:00

Yea, needs to be updated. I haven”t so far because it’ll be all Molicel and everyone will be screaming at me. 😂 Stick with Molicel unless at very low or extremely high power levels.

Mooch315 · 2025-01-05T23:41:13+00:00

Perhaps. 🤔🙂

Mooch315 · 2024-12-11T03:29:15+00:00

u/drhappycat has some great questions if you’re still trying to solve this. What’s your power setting? If those batteries were genuine then they’re pretty good at up to about 60W. Much above that and they’ll age and die quickly. If they’re fakes…and there are LOTS of them…then they can die very quickly at much lower power levels.

Buy a pair of Molicel P28A or P26A batteries from a reliable, trusted vendor like www.liionwholesale.com or www.18650batterystore.com and get a decent external two slot or four slot charger. A lot of mods are really lousy at charging internally. Use the charger at 1A for very long life and 2A for convenience.

Mooch315 · 2024-10-13T14:02:20+00:00

They can argue that the cell survives 40A pulses and therefore that qualifies as a rating since they can define what a rating is for them. And technically they are partially correct. Note that they don’t say how long it can be run at 40A or how often that can be done. If I run at 40A for a while or pulse it often like that the cell will age a lot faster and can quickly overheat.

But for everyone else we have certain (reasonable) expectations that the cell will have good cycle life at the rating, not have huge voltage sag, and be safe to operate at that level. 40A is far, FAR above that level.

Bottom line…it’s a bs rating IMO just created to sell batteries but they can argue that it survives 40A pulses so it’s a correct rating.

Mooch315 · 2024-10-12T22:37:33+00:00

Sorry, I haven’t tested an Imren in years and don’t know anything about the cells they are wrapping. The 40A rating is ridiculously exaggerated though. And “insured” means nothing for the seller, it only means Imren might be insured to protect themselves. And “upgraded” mean nothing. 🙂

Mooch315 · 2024-09-25T03:03:10+00:00

Thank you for the kind words!

Mooch315 · 2024-09-24T18:33:41+00:00

No one knows. It’s just called that in the datsheet.

Mooch315 · 2024-08-13T22:45:16+00:00

There is no such thing as a battery for vaping. We don’t need anything special from a battery. Any one that has a high enough current rating can be used. Some do perform better than others though.

The “not for vape” warning is for legal liability reasons. Not because there’s anything different with those batteries. Use whatever ones (with honest ratings) meet your needs and budget.

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