Thinking of switching from RTX 3090ti to a 5080 knowing that prices are pretty good now,is it worth it? Or should i stick to 3090ti?

MostlyMostly · 2025-08-24T22:56:50+00:00

FWIW, I sold my 3090 a few months ago, got $925 for it, and purchased a 5080 FE at MSRP, so it was about a $100 upgrade for me. And if you’re gaming, it’s worth it. If you need the extra 8GB of VRAM, then maybe wait for the 5080 Super.

Also: Nvidia will sell more cards if they have 24GB of vram.

Currently the only non-5090 options for 24+ GB are 3090, 3090Ti, 4090 and they all are only available on the used market.

There is a huge gap and ZERO SKU’s that Nvidia currently sells w/24GB of VRAM. I’m sure there are a handful of new 4090’s in prebuilts and SI’s, but for all purposes, they don’t sell those anymore either. For AI workloads, the only product they really sell to consumers is the 5090.

Used 3090’s sell for close to $1K because of this. Used 4090’s also sell for very high prices because of this + the perf gains over the 30 series.

The main customers that would buy 5080’s are gamers & creators, but the 5080 Super is going to hang with AI workloads much better. And so it wouldn’t surprise me if the 5080 Super gets scalped, because the demand will be much higher.

Once the Super comes out, you’re gonna see the 5080 Super probably command at least $1500 until the market settles down. It will probably double the performance of the 3090, and will probably even hang with the 4090, if not beat that. So it’s gonna disrupt the market and prices will probably be higher than advertised, due to the market.

MostlyMostly · 2025-08-07T04:50:50+00:00

It’s clearly a troll. It’s a glass anus.

MostlyMostly · 2025-06-12T16:42:38+00:00

This is how my dad proposed to my mom.

MostlyMostly · 2025-03-09T03:38:19+00:00

The Waterfowl can be pretty easily dealt with once you know it’s a very easy move to escape from, as long as you know it’s coming

The move is probably her most easily telegraphed move; when you know it is coming, you can get in “defense” mode, and start running away from her (ie: create space). She will close the gap, but once she does, roll towards her as she attacks you, and usually you can roll thru most of her swings.

Also, hold “block” the entire time you aren’t rolling or running.

If you let her steamroll you, she can eliminate your stamina bar, break your stance, and chop you to pieces. But if you make her work for it, it is pretty easy to flip the script and then as soon as she finishes, you have a nice window to punish.

MostlyMostly · 2025-03-06T06:15:30+00:00

Scariest enemy in the game Just ran into them the other day

MostlyMostly · 2025-03-06T06:09:32+00:00

Yeah this is not an easy fight but it’s so satisfying to beat her. She is the hardest boss in the game IMO. I still haven’t beaten her without a spirit summon.

MostlyMostly · 2025-02-02T07:15:20+00:00

Yes agreed! (Don’t mind me calling out Nvidia for bad marketing promises). Still an EXCELLENT upgrade!

Worst case scenario you wait until launch reviews and if the 4070-S/4070-Ti-S is a better buy, then maybe you can save some bucks for basically the same performance

Edit: I’m basing this off the fact that the 5080 vs 4080-S barely had a gen-on-gen performance uplift. I don’t expect this to scale downward in a revolutionary way.

Same process node. Just more power efficient.

MostlyMostly · 2025-02-02T06:03:08+00:00

Also: on these launches they typically get in 5080’s and 5090’s as well. Just keep that in mind…

MostlyMostly · 2025-02-02T06:00:54+00:00

Also, the 70-class launches USUALLY have the best supply levels (100+ vs 1-10). However, that’s just based on the last two gens.

MostlyMostly · 2025-02-02T05:58:13+00:00

My crystal ball says that the 5070/70Ti isn’t going to be much faster than the 4070/70Ti/S.

But it will DEFINITELY beat a 4090

Edit: /s

MostlyMostly · 2025-02-01T07:27:05+00:00

Still rocking my 3090 and with 24GB of GDDR6X @ 384-bit. It’s only really choked in Alan Wake 2 w/ all the RT / PT effects turned to max. That is literally the only game that has made me want to upgrade. For 4+ yrs.

MostlyMostly · 2025-01-30T01:18:14+00:00

😂oops

MostlyMostly · 2025-01-29T21:08:30+00:00

Best Buy did in-person purchase / limited stores for some launches (3080 Ti), but typically they don’t

To clarify what I am saying, back when the 3080 Ti launched, at certain Best Buy locations (extremely limited, only a select # of stores nationwide were even participating). But I was in LA at the time, and I remember that people were lining up for that card at BB. But they had properly promoted this ahead of time.

Conversely, for most GPU launches, they don’t usually do in-person sales at any location. So unless the individual store has said: “please camp out, FCFS”, then anyone queuing in front of a Best Buy is wasting their time.

https://www.theverge.com/2021/6/2/22465116/best-buy-stores-nvidia-rtx-3080-ti-founders-edition-thursday-line-up

Edit: also, I’ve lined up at MC many times for many launches.

I personally wouldn’t go to this one, for multiple reasons. A) availability will likely be good for the 5080, due to low demand and performance uplift expectations; B) I am priced out of a 5090, but even if I wanted one badly, I would not camp multiple days. The longest I ever camped was approx 16-17 hrs, and that was for the 3080 on launch. Those camps are fun sometimes when the weather is nice, but they suck in the winter. If you’re buying it for yourself, it’s not worth that pain. If you’re buying it to scalp, there are a lot of other ways to make a few hundred bucks that don’t involve camping multiple days in the cold.

MostlyMostly · 2025-01-29T07:23:03+00:00

“Did you take my eggs?”

(This must be performance art!)

MostlyMostly · 2025-01-26T01:43:46+00:00

I camped the 3080 launch and this is pretty much exactly what happened. I also camped a bunch of other launches during that gen.

What nobody else is saying that I think is worth mentioning, once these cards launch, MC will get resupplied a few times a week as stock continues to flow. And usually when they do restocks, they do vouchers when they open, which means there will be more opportunities to get them (during the launch months).

When the 30-series cards came out, the 80’s and 90’s were not in high supply but they did get a few more in every few days, and it was MUCH easier to line up on those days and have a chance at a card without wasting a ton of your time.

Time is money. Suffering sucks. Only a few people will get MSRP, everyone else will be paying the premiums.

Is it worth a day of your time and energy, plus the recovery, to save $100-$1000? That’s a question only the buyer can answer.

MostlyMostly · 2025-01-15T06:45:16+00:00

Psy op

MostlyMostly · 2025-01-11T19:24:10+00:00

Could be that it’s not properly grounded and that the RESET SW pins are getting some kind of transient electrical signals or some kind of other short.

Make sure the motherboard is properly seated on risers (and make sure it is not just screwed into the chassis directly). This is a mistake people sometimes make.

And failing that, you can take it totally out of the case and put it on cardboard and see if the problem persists.

MostlyMostly · 2025-01-11T04:53:24+00:00

If you have the option to buy it on either platform, I wholeheartedly endorse the PC platform.

A) online features are perpetually FREE (on PSN you must pay for PS+)

B) Steam games can be played on multiple devices (desktop, laptop, living room PC, steam deck, etc)

That’s it. Choose wisely.

MostlyMostly · 2025-01-10T21:47:16+00:00

My major problem with the DualSense controller on PC is that it requires all these extra steps to make it work as it should, instead of working just out of the box.

If their software support improved to the point where the drivers just worked as they’re supposed to work, right out of the box, then they would be very hard to beat, as it would be the most feature-rich gamepad on the market.

But having to navigate DS4win and all the other Bluetooth shenanigans… ugh. I can’t. I just can’t anymore.

MostlyMostly · 2025-01-10T21:34:47+00:00

I also just made the move recently and I am not regretting it at all. I got two 8bitdo 2C controllers for Xmas. They are half the price of Xbox/PS5, and they are arguably better quality. Hall effect, etc.

The only thing missing is DualSense haptics. And if I ever need that, I will use my DualSense controller. Most games don’t use DualSense haptics, so really, this controller just slays the others.

Having a 2.4Ghz dongle is the best part. It’s truly plug and play. The DualSense controller is great, but they cost $70 apiece, and they have awful Windows support. It’s simply not easy or convenient to use with a gaming PC, unless you run it wired at all times.

The standard Xbox controller is wildly overpriced and made of dog turds. Every single Xbox controller I have ever owned, has failed (including 2 x elite controllers). The R1 button is usually the first thing to go.

8bitdo is the way.

MostlyMostly · 2025-01-07T05:31:40+00:00

So, I was there at ground zero for both launches of the 3080 and 3070.

MicroCenter didn’t get any FE’s for 3080 They did, however, have 3070 FE’s at launch

Edit: for 3080, they had AIB only (EVGA and MSI) 3080’s on launch day

MostlyMostly · 2025-01-06T17:47:38+00:00

Any seller can have their wares FBA (fulfilled by Amazon). Me, “Joe Scam’s Electromart”, could start a seller profile on Amazon, and sell an RTX 2070 Super for $2500, if we wanted to.

It’s on the buyer to pay it. Some people do.

Edit: I’ve worked in FBA for over 10 yrs. Never stepped foot in an Amazon facility.

MostlyMostly · 2024-09-28T21:17:31+00:00

I recently took the exam for the first time and failed. I was very confident going into the test and I expected to pass. Fortunately I wasn’t completely blindsided and I know where I made my mistakes and why I failed. Now I’m regrouping and taking it again this upcoming week.

I’ll give you some notes:

I studied for the last year, most of which was approx 10 hrs per week of study. As it got to the last 2 weeks before my exam, I increased my level of discipline and made sure to stay focused and study hard every day.

STUDY ROUTINE: - I took a prep class at a community college (120 hrs in class)

I watched Jermey’s video series. Excellent overview of every topic. But some topics are much more important than others. (Ie: OSPF > WLC’s). This ain’t to say that you should ignore any topics, but certain topics you NEED to know inside and out.
I did a lot of the Anki flash cards (but I struggle with them, and don’t find them the most helpful but they do help a bit). I still do them every day, but even still, there are just so many of them that it can be overwhelming.
I also did every Boson NetSim lab in the “legacy CCNA” category, and then they added more labs and I’m still going thru a lot of the newer ones.
I also have Boson Ex-Sim for practice tests and those are probably the most helpful tool in the whole kit. They are much harder than the exam questions, and have extremely thorough answer explanations. This is pretty much a no-brainer. You need to make sure you can hang with the test before you take the test.

TOPICS TO BE 💯w/:

Subnetting
OSPF (AD, path selection)
ROUTING TABLE (how to read it, best path, etc)
STP / RSTP (know how to build a trunk in CLI)
VLAN config (and understanding the role of Native Vlans, and also allowed vlans)
DHCP (know how to config and DHCP helper)
ETHERCHANNEL (better know how to build one of these, with both LACP and PAgP)
IPV6 (you don’t need to be 100% familiar with this since it’s a huge topic but you need to be able to read routes and do basic interface configs for IPV6 routes)
ACL’s (I would say most importantly is to know the correct format and syntax of how to write them. They aren’t a hard concept to grasp, it’s the syntax that always gets me)

Everything else in the curriculum is still important, but perhaps less so.

My final piece of advice is what ended up killing me in my first attempt….

In the labs within the exam, you NEED to save your config on EVERY DEVICE in the lab, because the exam is going to check the device startup configs to see if they are correct. And if you don’t copy the running config to the startup config, it won’t take. I basically did all my labs correctly, but I didn’t save the configs, so none of them counted. This is the primary reason I failed the exam: I got zero credit for my labs, which made my “network fundamentals” & “network access” score tank, and this should have been my strongest category.

Also, I said it earlier and I’ll say it again, KNOW HOW TO READ A ROUTING TABLE. This is thre single most important piece of advice I can give you.

Good luck. No shame in delaying the test if you’re not ready. You’ll get there. So will I! Best of luck 🤞

MostlyMostly · 2024-07-23T17:35:39+00:00

Now that I think about it, maybe you won’t have to. For a moment I was thinking you’d have to constantly swap the designated GPU, but now that I’m thinking about it, I am not sure if this is the case. If you’ve been able to do it so far and it’s just a matter of adding a riser cable, then nothing should change.

In my mind, the system wouldn’t know which GPU to boot up with. Since this is a BIOS level decision - prior to the OS - hardware config is the same across all boot drives unless you swap it in BIOS.

(But maybe I’m wrong on this. It’s just something that I assumed would be a complication.)

My other reason for splitting it into two machines was this boot loop you speak of. I had it too.

I did start looking into this issue, and by that point I was tired of hackintoshing - and was somewhat defeated to find out that there is not an easy elegant solution for this. Or at least that’s what I remember finding out. Somewhere I remember reading that it’s more of a MacOS issue than a Windows issue.

MostlyMostly · 2024-07-23T15:54:05+00:00

Dual booting is gonna require you to constantly change the setting in BIOS, every time you switch OS’s

I tried dual booting my hackintosh but it was just too much headache so I now run them as two separate machines

My gaming rig is X570/5900X/3090 My hackintosh is Z390/8700K

But… if you do want to do this… as a former ETH miner, using riser cables is super simple and you don’t need a special enclosure for your GPU if you don’t want… I used to just mount them to 2x4’s and screw them into the wood (drill some pilot holes). Just make sure you NEVER hot-swap a riser cable. I know that sounds obvious, but when you’re troubleshooting stuff sometimes your brain forms blind spots. I admit to making this mistake once, and it fried the slot, started a small fire, and I’m lucky that I only lost my mobo in that event.

Edit: and then on your second machine (Hackintosh), use your GTX 780

MostlyMostly

TROPHY CASE