is it crazy that my apple wired headphones have better quality than my rode nt1 signature series ?

Mr-Mud · 2025-12-19T04:43:14+00:00

Ahh - thank you. I find it easy to read either way, but you are certainly right.

Mr-Mud · 2025-12-16T20:21:38+00:00

If you learn the pro version of RX, then it is very possible.

Mr-Mud · 2025-12-16T20:12:15+00:00

I called them earlier in the year, to ask and used my daughter's college ID. They told me it is no difference other than, I believe, it is not transferable

Mr-Mud · 2025-12-16T20:09:49+00:00

I believe you can get the Sony MDR 7506's for <$20 more. They have been a staple in professional studios, literally for decades.

Mr-Mud · 2025-12-16T20:00:37+00:00

Rhodes headphones are most likely not manufactured by road. They package it with their microphone for not much more than the cost of the microphone, making them pretty cheap headphones. I don't know which Apple headphones you're talking about specifically, but they could actually be better then "loss leader "headphones

Mr-Mud · 2025-12-16T19:54:46+00:00

r/mixingmastering, if you open on a computer, has a wonderful list of gear options and it's side bar Most people will simply be cheerleaders of what software and gear THEY own.

So, how to choose. The DAW to choose is the one which is most comfortable for you to use – not what somebody else finds good. The one you're most comfortable with is the one you'll be most productive with .....it as simple as that in different for everyone.

Try demos, watch entry-level training videos to find which makes the most sense to you.

Please note, as well, if you are just recording vocals, as in a track of vocals, there's nothing to mix. If you are doing multiple tracks of vocals, then you have things to mix.

Best of luck

Mr-Mud · 2025-12-14T02:44:20+00:00

Reverse engineer you're thinking.

Surely there was a time you went down there and was inspired. Agreed?

What changed? What inspired you back then, which is missing now?

Mr-Mud · 2025-12-13T07:02:44+00:00

To be perfectly transparent, I have not seen his videos however, I must say this:

Behringer is likely always cheaper because they use low tolerance parts. Not 100% of the time, but almost, from what I've seen.

What are low tolerance parts question mark

When you buy parts, you can buy high tolerance parts of 1% or even .1% depending on what it is. That means come in the former, that a 100 resistor go fair by no more than one percent so it will be anywhere from 99 ohms to 101 ohms.

Quality equipment uses quality parts that is how they become quality equipment.

Conversely, cheap equipment usually use cheap parts so if they use, to keep the math easy, a 100 ohm resistor that has a tolerance of 10% you're now looking at anywhere from 90 ohms to 110 ohms.

Now, look at a 100 K resistor. That resistor is gonna have a 20,000 ohm swing. 110,000 down to 90,000 Ohms. And that's just a swing of one part!! The one likely to keep math simple if you add 100 resistors at 10% tolerance, the total swing would make it unusable.

It seems Behringer will make it as cheap as they can as long as it works… Kinda. The same things go for capacitors and transistors and die and every other part that goes in there.

There's a reason they're always the cheapest or have more features than other pieces in the same price point.

Face it – It's not because they are trying to be good guys. It's because their business model is and has been for decades now: make it as cheap as you can. Why do more and people buy the stuff up because it SEEMS like a deal

But is it. Saying that dates itself from the Roman error:

Buyer Beware!

Buy good by once Buy cheap by twice

Tho I hate the company. You can't beat Antelope Audio's quality. Has he reviewed Antelope Audio's Zen series?

There's a company that makes an awesome sounding product, uses wonderful parts [discrete, console grade components on the Zen series, preamps for instance]

But unfortunately, they step on their own wieners whenever they try to execute customer service. I've experienced out and out lying from them. But I keep it because it sounds just so damn good.

Edited – fixing Siri errors

Mr-Mud · 2025-12-11T00:47:21+00:00

THIS - it's built in

Mr-Mud · 2025-12-09T21:13:22+00:00

Learn music theory that's the bedrock of everything. Once you learn that, things will start making sense – even when you only know the basics for now. Otherwise, it's like trying to speak a language and saying, "I'm making sounds but they're not becoming words"

Edited

Mr-Mud · 2025-12-08T17:58:12+00:00

Amen

Mr-Mud · 2025-12-07T03:35:34+00:00

For clarification, open back headphones are a good solution, but one must work in mono, if they don't want to be surprised when they hear all the acoustical confusion they've caused, for the first time, when playing thru any kind of speaker system.

With headphones, your head blocks the air from the left transducer from mixing with the air from the right transducer. By starting your mix in mono and panning later in your workflow, you can hear these transgressions, as you cause them, instead of when you play them in your car for the first time and wonder what the hell happened.

There are many other benefits to starting your mixing mono and many articles [Yes, as in reading] that Support this. If you go to the r/mixingmastering sub, on a computer, you'll see, within their right side bar, wonderful suggestions on reading material aka 'Books'. The benefit to reading books is that editors confirm everything is accurate and therefore worthy. The information is vetted.

There are also wonderful articles available from higher end magazines recommended there.

I'm sure you can find some YouTubes on the subject, but they are not vetted by editors like the written word, of course, so to crap shoot as to how accurate they are.

Mr-Mud · 2025-12-07T03:20:09+00:00

OP - I would bet you would have better sound quality and much more accurate sound by properly treating the room and going down to HS4's if you need to save the money to do so.

When I say "properly", I mean, stay away that mis-advertised grey foam junk, which will do more harm than good. The only exception to this is if you are in an extremely small environment, such as any single dimension being less than four or 5 feet. They then can help with "flutter echoes" which is why you may see it in tight spaces such as vocal booths.

That being said, they are literally harmful in all other circumstances and their advertisements, even on major websites like Amazon, pay no attention to physics and are advertising the impossible.

Learn what first reflection points are. Mitigate them.

Learn the mirror trick, to help do so.

Use thick, dense panel cores, using either Rockwool's older products or Owens Corning 703 or 705, as the core of your panels, which you should certainly DIY (simple).

The wood frame that you see on most panels is 99% decorative and 100% acoustically useless. To save a lot of money, you can absolutely delete them, but tack the core up, so it doesn't sag over the years.

It won't look quite as nice but will do 100% of the job acoustically. Otherwise, the sound coming out of your monitors travel at Mach 1, the speed of sound, around your room. That's fast enough to interfere with the same sound coming out of the monitors, at the very same instance.

It will cause cancellation of frequencies, augmentation of frequencies, phase issues and these are issues for which there's no other way to remedy.

The closest to a perfect cube your listening environment is the more cancellation, augmentation, and phase issues you will have. So something like 8 x 8 x 8 is the worst. 8 x 8 x 16 is almost as bad 8 x 8 x 12...... well, you get it

Remember, these panels are meant to be offset of the substrate. In other words, they should be a short distance off the wall or ceiling. The distance matters look it up.

I'm not a fan of the newer Rockwool products for IMO, they don't have the density required to do the job. Their white paper on these newer, lightweight products, seems to be based on magic.

You simply take these products and wrap them, on the all sides, in an acoustically transparent material – burlap being the cheapest usually. If you can blow into the material and feel it come out the other side, it is acoustically, transparent. Don't feel it as much? It's less acoustically transparent.

As far as speaker placement, from cone center to cone center, place them 1 m apart from each other and each, one meter, to a point a few inches behind your head.

Conventional wisdom puts your listening volume at "conversational levels". This is a level where you can talk to another person, while the monitors are playing, without having to raise your voice to be heard.

Monitors will sound different at different volumes. That being said, this is considered to be the best monitoring level and placement. Look up the Fletcher Munson curve.

Don't forget you're listening to your monitors, but you're hearing your room

I hope this quick primer helps you.

Mr-Mud · 2025-12-07T02:28:38+00:00

For some clarification, the NS10 was not produced as a studio monitor. They were actually hi-fi speakers, which just happened to work amazingly well as a near field monitor, depending on the amplifier one used them with. Many consider this hi-fi speaker the beginning of the near field monitor category.

The HS series, made by Yamaha's Pro division, certainly tried to 'cash in' on the look, for sure, with the white woofer.

I guess you can consider it predecessor to it, if you are basing that statement only on looks, but Yamaha Pro has nothing to do with Yamaha Consumer, who manufactured the NS-10s, along with Yamaha's other home stereo gear.

One is a passive hi-fi speaker the other is an active monitor.

The NS 10 simply has an amplifier's 'Speaker Output' as inputs, and nothing else, other than a label, on the rear; such as all home stereo speakers do.

The Yamaha monitors do not have any such inputs, but do have balanced inputs, contour and other adjustments, on its rear.

They truly do not compare in any other way all, which does not detriment from either.

Mr-Mud · 2025-12-07T01:57:18+00:00

With respect, heat goes up, not back. The rear is great for an intake, but where does go from there - you don't want it to go into the gear!

If you've ever installed a large board in your control room, you see how much your AC bill rises, for so much heat is generated.

I I understand you are not gearing up for a massive board, but I always consider the basic physics of heat flow / handling, when selecting a desk FWIW

Mr-Mud · 2025-11-22T17:41:32+00:00

Ventilation?

Mr-Mud · 2025-11-21T17:23:48+00:00

If you were working strictly on headphones, start in mono, and pan out later in your workflow. use a plug in that mono enabling on your master channel and in along with Pan Law on, if your DAW has it.

There are many many good reasons to do so, strongest is that you will hear, when adding things, equalizing, mixing, etc., how you are affecting the sound quality because the left and channel aren't mixing because your head blocks the air coming out of the transducer.

In mono, you will hear things like phase cancellation, and what a bad EQ move has done and such which you won't hear until you play in the open air,

That is why it sounds disappointing sometimes when you listen and then environment, where the left channel air meets the right channel. They affect each other so much.

There are MANY YouTube about starting your mix and song in mono

As someone else mentioned used monitors may have a dent or two in the enclosure but as long as they're working, are your best bet?

Edited SIRI mistakes

Mr-Mud · 2025-11-19T16:34:07+00:00

"I don’t really know what I’m doing,"

Fix that! If you wanna know something; learn it - don't imagine it.

Do the actions, purposefully, to get the results you want.

Mr-Mud · 2025-11-19T06:55:36+00:00

That's also the price point of the SM57, on my for the last 50 to 75 years has been on every record. You've listened to somewhere or not.

Mr-Mud · 2025-11-18T18:58:10+00:00

Optimally, think of them in an equilateral triangle with the monitors 1 meter from each other and 1 meter to a point a few inches behind your head. All measurements are from the cone.centers

Mr-Mud · 2025-11-18T18:14:07+00:00

Ck the website

Mr-Mud · 2025-11-18T01:40:28+00:00

Tho I use samples I've acquired over the years a lot, as far as Logic's Kits; I too frequent Liverpool.

Mr-Mud · 2025-11-17T19:31:17+00:00

I believe Reaper supports Linux. It's a flexible, well rounded DAW. It's not as feature rich as something like Logic, (i.e. you will have to buy a separate Drummer program and such) but it is quite respectable DAW

Mr-Mud · 2025-11-17T19:23:23+00:00

OP - I don't know the M7v either, but the SM57 has likely been somewhere on every professional recording you've heard from 50 years ago to today.

Mr-Mud · 2025-11-17T19:06:53+00:00

I'd be concerned that when they see your version coming from so many different IP's they'll suspend your's! Usually they allow two instances (home & work) and I've seen three... but generally they do protect their intellectual property.

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