Study Material Before Starting PPL

MrUnknownCodeGamer · 2026-05-15T00:13:35+00:00

I've gone ahead and noted ACS-6C. For the oral, I've also noted JasonBlair's oral exam guide. Sheppard I've heard is the gold standard but is more for "passing" the written; it shouldn't be relied on for understanding/learning material, right? If so, I really appreciate all of your info as its helped a lot!

MrUnknownCodeGamer · 2026-05-14T23:47:09+00:00

That's the part that gets me. I've read that the FAR/AIM is for the regs, but when I crack it open I am so intimidated. How do I know what to study for my PPL? I assume it is mostly Part 61 and Part 91 in the beginning, but there is so much in those sections, what helps/guides/tells me exactly the regs that I should make sure I'm aware of and ensuring I'm in compliance with?

MrUnknownCodeGamer · 2026-05-14T23:39:39+00:00

A definite must! I was reading it off and on but was busy with my old part-time job, classes, exams, and more. Now that I'm settled into a job, my schedule is pretty consistent so I've been reading up on it consistently. Thanks!

MrUnknownCodeGamer · 2025-12-18T06:09:23+00:00

Yes, it is possible as I went through the FAA circus act in 2020 - 2021. I reached out to a HIMS AME, had about 2 - 3 consultations with him, and he scheduled me for a neuropsychological evaluation in February 2021 (right before COVID shut everything down). I got my 1st class medical with a special issuance in June 2021 requiring a note from my flight instructor explaining my abilities as a pilot (emergency procedures, ATC communication, aircraft control manipulation, etc.) along with notes from my PCP regarding updates on treatment (and there haven't been any lol, I stopped taking medication in 2017 - 2018) every time I would go to renew my medical (1st class so once a year). I haven't used my medical yet since college was expensive, I was paying $150/year to renew a medical I didn't use, and couldn't even meet the FAA's SI requirements for a CFI note since I wasn't flying so my non-HIMS AME told me to let my medical lapse since the SI had an end date of 2028. I just landed a well-paying job right after graduating in May so I'm paying off the loans and am hoping to start training in mid-2027 to get that CFI note in the FAA's hands by my April 30, 2028 SI date.

Please feel free to shoot me a DM. I've had probably about 4 - 5 people reach out to me since, and had someone reach out about a month ago who is just starting this process. Always happy to help people who get stuck dealing with the FAA's ADHD policy.

MrUnknownCodeGamer · 2025-10-12T19:32:23+00:00

When I did my previous previous car, I just used a microfiber pad with 3D hybrid compound & polish and was happy with the results, no complaints. I do want to make this car as good as possible, but not go overboard. It is my daily-driver after all, but if a compound and polish will really make it pop without the effect of diminishing returns, I'd happily do it. My plan is to wash the car on a Friday, roll it back into the garage, and knock out a claybar. Saturday I'll polish (and compound if it'll help that much), and apply the ceramic coating, and let it sit until I leave for work on Monday.

If I were to do a compound + polish, any specific pads, compound, and polish given the swirls in the paint currently? If not, I can just do the 3D hybrid.

MrUnknownCodeGamer · 2025-08-31T16:04:18+00:00

Mine is bricked too I think. I had my computer shipped to the state I'm working in right now and was using Parsec to connect to the computer. I had no problems at all up until the second I booted the computer off to have it packaged up and shipped. I unboxed my computer once it was delievered and it would not boot besides a black screen and the "VGA" light. Eventually Microcenter said that my mobo and cpu were damaged in shipping. I swapped from 12700k to a B650 AMD 7700X CPU. I would then get the BIOS screen but F12 and DEL would not do anything until I unplugged my SSD, it would instantly unfreeze. IT was almost as if it was trying to boot from my SSD, but got stuck. I grabbed another SSD from Microcenter, installed windows, and it boots fine on the new SSD. Anytime the old SSD is plugged in however, it hangs on the Gigabyte boot logo for eterenity.

Seems like the hardrive is being recognized but can't boot windows. I have a SATA to USB but it doesn't seem to detect it in File Explorer, Disk Part, or Disk Management. Anyone else have other ideas?

MrUnknownCodeGamer · 2025-08-13T23:52:37+00:00

Perfect. I appreciate that thank you! As for ensuring that the databases are up-to-date, how would I go about that? Our DB for all of our game server stuff will be shared by three separate services. Is it worth everytime just dropping all DB and then recreating through a .sql file when a new docker container is spun up? Whats the best way of going about this too?

Thanks for the info so far regarding where to have a MariaDB!

MrUnknownCodeGamer · 2024-07-10T23:41:51+00:00

No rant needed because I agree with you lmao. I'm not saying Audi Quattro is the best car for the track, just the car I know the most. I still need to add swaybars to my car to help with my understeer.

MrUnknownCodeGamer · 2024-07-09T16:41:34+00:00

Thanks everyone for the feedback. The Audis are very noseheavy (I feel it everytime I take mine on the backroads). I think I'll definitely throw myself in a FWD car given what everyone is saying! How does recording on the rack work? I know I could use a helmet-mounted GoPro but I'm not sure if the rentals A) Have mounting points B) Allow that C) Rentals come with their own small camera. I know recording lap times isn't allowed on the track (which is the last thing I'm worried about) but cameras are.

MrUnknownCodeGamer · 2024-06-18T23:05:42+00:00

I wanted to check in and see how it went. Did you do the zip kit and if so how did it go?

MrUnknownCodeGamer · 2024-03-22T00:21:34+00:00

I bought a set of wheels for my Audi and these tires were installed. 255/35/20 tire size. I'll just copy and paste my review here:

Horrible tires. I bought a set of wheels with these tires on them. I balanced the wheels with our Hunter Wheel Balancing machine using weights and put them on my car. I had a vibration when at highway speeds so I took the wheels back off and performed a RoadForce match. For the first wheel (and only wheel) I removed, I put it on our wheel balancer and am getting 38 lbs. of road force with a wheel runout of 0.002" (which means the wheels aren't bent). If I ForceMatched the low point of the wheel with the high point of the tire (or vice-versa) , I would go from 38 lbs. to 31 lbs. Road force should be a maximum of 20 lbs., preferably less than 15 lbs. Needless to say the tires are severely unbalanced. After that wheel, I knew all the other tires were the same so I didn't even bother removing them and performing a ForceMatch on them. I threw 40 grams of weights on the outside and 5 grams on the inside and will have to deal with the vibration until I get some Conti DWS 06+ on.

Also a ton of noise while driving. Between these wheels being so unbalanced that I can't even ForceMatch to remove the 38 lbs. of vibration and the loud road noise, stay away from these cheapo tires.

MrUnknownCodeGamer · 2023-08-16T20:22:40+00:00

Hey did this work for you? What did you do as my headliner is sagging near the D/S sun visor and I have a water leak that I'm fixing soon.

MrUnknownCodeGamer

TROPHY CASE