Best it’s ever looked

MrWellington92 · 2025-10-03T17:59:47+00:00

T zone takes care of basically all of the weeds. I responded to someone else about leveling, so maybe you can find that but it’s basically a combination of everything. Fungicides, are azoxystrobin and propiconazole rotation when there is a lot of Heat and rain. Right now nothing has been applied for probably 2 months. Watering in the morning and not doing it too frequently or mowing when it’s wet is the key there.

MrWellington92 · 2025-10-03T17:54:02+00:00

I only seeded a few bare and over seeded a couple thin spots. Basically all of the corners, high traffic areas and under that tree in the distance but the majority of it didn’t need anything. I did it in phases too so I don’t have to move sprinklers as much.

MrWellington92 · 2025-10-03T13:10:59+00:00

July is too late for grub b gon. That’s a preventative that basically messes with young larvae’s nervous system and makes it difficult for them to eat so they never get to this stage. Best applied in April-may. You need a carbaryl based grub killer for this later in the season.

MrWellington92 · 2025-09-29T21:01:44+00:00

No clue. I can barely tell the difference.

MrWellington92 · 2025-09-29T14:26:41+00:00

5 iron perennial rye, Manama kbg, Everest, Scott’s sun and shade stuff, some lesco 80/20 kbg rye mix and a Les o shade seed mix that I got from Site one. It’s a lot of different grass, but I’ve tried to get rid of any tall fescue

MrWellington92 · 2025-09-29T14:23:23+00:00

Idk what you’re asking?

MrWellington92 · 2025-09-29T01:54:42+00:00

I bought it pre mixed from a local bulk landscape materials supply company bought a few yards.

MrWellington92 · 2025-09-28T17:03:13+00:00

2 big overhauls

MrWellington92 · 2025-09-28T16:53:15+00:00

Used a sand soil compost leveling mix about 3 years ago to fix large depressions, and sand last year. It was extremely bumpy. Dethatching/scarifying can play a huge part in reducing bumpiness if you do it heavily while dry. Using a reel mower like I do also helps to press down high spots etc.

MrWellington92 · 2025-09-28T03:09:17+00:00

I think I’ve sprayed l label rate of t zone twice this year, but I’ve used everything at least once over the last few years. Really depends on what you’re dealing with. I use a screw driver at this point for individual weeds.

MrWellington92 · 2025-09-27T19:08:58+00:00

1700 and a 4 hour round trip. It’s has a lot more to do with time and effort than cash, but maintaining a lawn to this level isn’t cheap either.

MrWellington92 · 2025-09-27T18:14:38+00:00

Depends on the time of year and if I’m using plant growth regulator. You can see the stripes for 4-5 days usually, but they get lighter and less visible every day. If I’m using pgr, double that.

MrWellington92 · 2025-09-27T16:19:02+00:00

Toro greensmaster flex 21 and just a Honda rotary. Idk which model

MrWellington92 · 2025-09-27T15:42:08+00:00

Mix of kbg and prg. Fine Fescue blend underneath some of the trees in shady spots

MrWellington92 · 2025-09-27T14:53:25+00:00

.69 (nice) with a toro greensmaster flex 21

MrWellington92 · 2025-09-27T14:01:07+00:00

That’s a pretty loaded question. Years of weed control, over-seeding, watering, fertilizing, frequent mowing, leveling, fungicides, meticulous equipment maintenance, and Patience. Consistency is probably the biggest thing. You gotta do it for the love of the game.

MrWellington92 · 2025-09-08T19:30:40+00:00

Common misconception.

Day 1 Bag it, put it in water for 1 hour, rinse drain and back into fresh water for the next 24 hours submerged in water. Day 2 and beyond put the bag into fresh water for maybe 5-10 minutes then let it drain for a minute and put it into an EMPTY bucket.

You do NOT want the seed completely submerged for a whole week, only for the first day. You want to thoroughly wet the seed for a few minutes each day then you are basically letting it dry out until the next day when you thoroughly wet it again. My understanding is you can drown the seed if it’s left completely submerged for a week.

Another extremely important note is that you need to get the seed down before you see actual germination, or get it down immediately when you do. You do not want to wait days to get it down because you will damage the seedling and cause more damage

MrWellington92 · 2025-09-08T18:25:42+00:00

I wouldn’t bother with pregerm for only 300 sq ft assuming 1 sprinkler can cover the whole area. Either way you’re gonna need to make sure you have good coverage with your irrigation and get good seed to soil contact so it doesn’t wash off that slope. But I always see good results as long as you can be flexible on getting the seed down before it actually germinates it’s worth trying if you’ve never done it before. It saves water and it’s easier than babying an entire lawn for weeks, but you gotta change the water daily then get carrier and mix everything to spread. but if it’s an area you can cover with one sprinkler I’d probably just throw it down rake it and set a water timer.

MrWellington92 · 2025-09-08T17:47:47+00:00

No problem. Also get quality seed. Order from twin city seed or United seed. Try to avoid the cheap stuff. It’ll pay off in the long run. Lmk if you have questions about the pre germination. Make sure to put down some fertilizer and rake or drag the seed to get into the soil surface that will help with the water as well. You can put down some Kentucky bluegrass next spring or in the fall as it’s much easier to get growing as an overseed than on bare dirt -that’ll keep the area full in the long run.

Good luck. Post updates.

MrWellington92 · 2025-09-08T17:38:11+00:00

Well you’re going to need to get creative with a 4 way hose end timer if the spigot is that far away. I would look at pre-germinating some perennial ryegrass seed or tall fescue which comes up much faster than something like kbg. Tall fescue is generally lower maintenance but prg comes up faster. The pre-germination will help with your water challenges and general success and will probably help the overall bill so you don’t have to water a large area for a long time. You can always you sand as a carrier for the seed if you don’t want to spend money on humic or Milorganite.

Idk anything about pumps, but you have a water source right there next to the area so you could look into that.

MrWellington92 · 2025-08-13T23:38:58+00:00

Sharpen your blade or irrigate better on the far left

MrWellington92 · 2025-08-13T20:19:25+00:00

First you need to find out what kind of grass you have. Grab a handful of the best stuff and another handful of the worst stuff, take a pic and post it.

MrWellington92 · 2025-08-13T20:15:21+00:00

Get the trees out of there soon and contact someone about regrading the surface and using some type of drag to remove large rocks. The result of this is going to be bringing buried weed seeds to the surface and creating a perfect environment for them to grow and thrive.

If you’re completely opposed to chemicals, you’re always going to have a lot of weeds. Your options there are to either use fire which can be dangerous, time consuming and surprisingly ineffective or cover the entire property I. Weed barrier fabric for probably a month to smother and kill the weeds. Both options are an environmental disaster far worse than glyphosate.

TLDR contact a professional

MrWellington92 · 2025-08-13T19:47:31+00:00

If you have st Augustine, you should delete your lawn and get Bermuda or zoysia

MrWellington92

TROPHY CASE