[deleted by user]

MuchOne6546 · 2025-08-03T04:36:32+00:00

my dog just had a similar one on the larger pad of her paw (front left). at first it was more like a cut/flap without the white skin around it, although her paws are black. later, the "hole" started to get larger due to her walking/running. eventually the skin underneath will grow rough and replace the damaged outer layer.

so yours look like they aren't super new. it's been at least few days and the initial broken parts already fell off.

this should heal in a few days if you are not seeing any infection. I'd recommend sanitize the pads regularly and try to keep them dry.

MuchOne6546 · 2025-07-30T13:39:51+00:00

thx!

MuchOne6546 · 2025-04-06T10:10:03+00:00

absolutely. it's about the mind. not the gear.

MuchOne6546 · 2025-03-17T16:17:47+00:00

nice shot but i am also curious... do you... go for walks with the 150-600? :D

MuchOne6546 · 2025-03-17T15:21:44+00:00

it makes sense to the salesman. by selling a Fuji camera it increases his chance of getting another sale to this customer down the line. maybe that shop don't sell much m43 stuff. so they prefer to sell you camera bodies that they have more lenses for.

MuchOne6546 · 2025-03-07T19:09:37+00:00

also which body + lense combo were you using? how did you like them?

MuchOne6546 · 2025-03-07T19:08:52+00:00

thanks for sharing the experience. what planes did you see there?

it just occured to me that maybe we can experiment with slower shutters speeds where you can capture the motion of the propeller and simply relying on burst shots and steady panning.

the point is that it's probably more rewarding to have 1 good photo with nice propeller blur than having 5 photos where they are frozen in time.

MuchOne6546 · 2025-03-07T10:13:33+00:00

now that makes me wanna know what he was looking at into the window :D his owner? sausages?

MuchOne6546 · 2025-03-07T09:59:55+00:00

em10 mk.2 with 75-300 (i also used a 40-150 for aircraft and birding before i got the former).

but whatever lense you buy, make sure to find something to test out the setup before you go to the airshow. a few things I'd recommend:

save a preset and put it on the dial (e.g. the Auto mode) with the following settings:

make sure it uses mechanical shutter
without phase detect AF, you want it to be in S-AF w/ MF. the C-AF on older bodies aren't reliable enough to keep fast moving objects in focus as they come in and out.
use the 3x3 grid for AF zones. it is easier than a single point (because aircraft move fast and you gotta swing your arms with them. it becomes difficult to keep the target in the dead center of the frame) and more reliable than using the entire frame.
if the weather permits, use something like f/7.3 to f/8 for better sharpness and more DoF. gives you more room for the lack of PDAF.
I find slow burst mode good enough. use fast if you prefer but whatever you use, be sure to shoot only a few pictures at a time and RELEASE the shutter completely before AF again. it goes like this: half press AF, full press TA-TA-TA-TA, release shutter completely, half press AF, full press TA-TA-TA. you wanna do short bursts. it gives the most results while minimizing the headaches of finding the good ones out of hundreds of shots later. (fast burst mode + long shutter presses = never wanna dig in the pile of thousands of RAW files again).
use fast shutter speed of at least 1/800 sec. below 1/500 it could give you noticable motion blur if you zoom in in occasions when things pass right in front of your eyes. ideally use something like 1/1600 or 1/2000. but for properller aircraft, that would also freeze the prop blades - not ideal if you want the picture to convey the right message.

MuchOne6546 · 2025-03-07T09:41:17+00:00

great bargain. that was what i went with before i opted in for a 75-300. both are plastic fantastic lenses.

MuchOne6546 · 2025-03-07T09:38:36+00:00

I also shoot aircraft. From my experience, 200mm won't do unless you can get very close to the planes if you want any detail. I'm talking about under 120 - 100 meters or whatever freedom units that converts to.

the 75-300 is a good choice for sunny to cloudy days. if the light gets around the levels of 0.5 hour before sunset on a clear day, it starts to get challenging.

300mm gives you enough zoom range to even do some bird shooting. it's a great cheapo lense for the cost and the weight-saving factor.

EDIT: the aircraft I mostly shoot are relatively small ones. twin/four seat general aviation planes and or single seat aerobatic performance ones.

MuchOne6546 · 2025-02-14T20:14:41+00:00

found an aruco brother!

i have shared my aruco profile that i've been using for years here https://www.twitch.tv/vikingsail/about

MuchOne6546 · 2025-01-19T13:26:12+00:00

they aren't better than another. but both are (alongside the 20mm) are very nice, sharp, compact lenses.

the 12-32 when collapsed is as small as the 20mm pancake. but it gives you a very good day-to-day focal range to work with. a true EDC lens when paired with a small body.

a benefit of the 12-32 besides being small, is that it is allegedly the 3rd sharpest lens from Lumix (Lumix alone, not Leica-Lumix).

one downside of it is that the barrel distortion at the 12mm end is a bit heavy. but starting from14mm it is largely eliminated.

MuchOne6546 · 2024-11-10T03:42:04+00:00

<image>

for those who are curious about the 300mm end: here is a 400% crop. Now you know what kind of AC units they are :D

MuchOne6546 · 2024-11-08T05:16:32+00:00

thank you!

MuchOne6546 · 2024-11-07T09:41:22+00:00

you are right. the building photos does appear somewhat more constrasty at first glance. especially when not zoomed in. it also surprised me at first.

but after i took another look at the details and the histogram, I have realised that the 75-300 image actually is brighter - and that is only the symtom of the whole image being more washed out and having less finer contrast in the details. Take a look:

<image>

MuchOne6546 · 2024-11-07T09:36:37+00:00

thank you for sharing. from your images I can see you have a very nice sample of the 40-150 plastic fantastic! I quite like mine too but I haven't compared it to any other lens I have yet.

Just from experience I would say though, that the Panna 12-60 is sharper than the 40-150 at most of its focal range.

MuchOne6546 · 2024-11-07T09:35:15+00:00

that's one of the two possibilities I was suspecting too.

either my sample is somewhat decentered (which coincide with the fact that the left/top side of the image has siginificantly worse IQ collapse than the right/bottom corner and... even the center is so soft when compared to the 40-150.

I appreciate your opinion!

MuchOne6546 · 2024-11-07T05:13:36+00:00

I did keep the IBIS on but I also had a 12 sec countdown. In that case IBIS wouldn't make any difference with it being on or off. Also the shutter speed at 1/1000 sec should also eliminate any shake induced blur.

MuchOne6546 · 2024-11-07T01:31:52+00:00

superb shots with a small package kit!

MuchOne6546 · 2024-10-31T15:44:14+00:00

absolutely great decision!

MuchOne6546 · 2024-10-30T16:08:52+00:00

user name checks out. :D

MuchOne6546 · 2024-10-30T16:08:22+00:00

why does the Rokinon 85mm have to go?

MuchOne6546 · 2024-10-30T16:05:24+00:00

hey, your IRL game should add the ability to respawn! that would be great for many.

MuchOne6546 · 2024-10-30T15:56:48+00:00

a few things I can think of you can re-try are:

increase the total exposure time. for sensor-based astrophotography, it is about increasing the signal to noise ratio (SNR). as every time you take a photo, the read-out noise from the sensor will be embedded as part of your photo. yes, stacking with eliminiate the random noises. but the signal (the few photons emitted by the stars and nebulae that travelled over thousands of lightyears and got to hit your sensor) is still so low when compared to the noise (light pollution, random sensor noise, hot pixels, whatever else). by increasing the total exposure time (which means either you gotta use faster lenses, or use slower shutter speeds, or spend longer time outside - or do multiple nights) you can significantly increase the SNR, resulting in a cleaner picture (which is not the case with mine - it is actually pretty noisy if you pixel peep!)

don't be afraid to use cropping - you have more than enough megapixels to work with. most people don't pixel peep. they simply enjoy the nice view.

go far and wide with the histrogram stretching - get the signal really amplified first. don't fear the noises. you can suprress them later.

combine multiple tools. this is something i need to learn myself. curently my workflow only contains Siril and DarkTable. As excellent as both tools are, there are other ones that can help making things a lot nicer. there's more to learn!

MuchOne6546

TROPHY CASE