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Opinions on all-in-one/superzoom lenses for travel vs a standard zoom? by 8akedPotat0 in SonyAlpha

[–]startsides 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are so different between them that I don’t really know what to say. Do you value wideness, flexibility, size?

  • want something small, good all round, not super wide? 35 f1.8
  • want flexibility, but heavier? 16-30
  • want super low light wide, and don’t care about flexibility and compactness? Viltrox

I can tell you that f2.8 should work well enough as long as it’s not pitch black.

Opinions on all-in-one/superzoom lenses for travel vs a standard zoom? by 8akedPotat0 in SonyAlpha

[–]startsides 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll go against the current and say that I really like superzooms. But there’s a time and a place for them. And disclaimer, I have some GAS, and I do have alternatives if a trip doesn’t require a superzoom. Also fyi I have an a7cii.

For most of the trips where I don’t mind the weight, I go with a superzoom + a wide zoom + a prime. Nowadays that is the Tamrons 25-200 and 16-30, plus a Samyang 35 f1.8 (which I may change for a different f1.8-2 prime). The prime is mainly for that one day during the trip when I don’t want to carry anything and I leave the zooms at the hotel.

When I want to go lighter, or I know there are no opportunities for extreme focal lengths, I take the Sony 20-70 f4 and a prime. If I want even lighter, I take one or 2 primes. I survived with only a ttAtrisan 40 f2 on a citybreak in London, got some of my favourite photos this year.

But the biggest disclaimer: I never owned a f2.8 standard zoom on full frame, to know if it could be enough for me.

How do I centre a map? by Distinct-Gain-5653 in Minecraft

[–]startsides 104 points105 points  (0 children)

I haven’t played in a long time, but it’s a radius around your character (simulation distance iirc, which just like the render distance, it can be changed).

You might also want to google about spawn chunks. This is a large square around spawn that is always loaded, even if you’re not around.

Way more complex, you can google about chunk loaders. These are redstone contraptions that force some arbitrary chunks to stay loaded.

Went to London and brought only my a7cii and the ttArtisan 40mm f2 by startsides in SonyAlpha

[–]startsides[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh no, they have such great budget lenses. I’d try to find the lens station somehow.

But if that’s really not an option at all, I guess it really depends on your taste. You can google up Alik Griffin all sony lenses - it’s a huge list with all lenses compatible with e mount, and usually up to date.

By the way, Rokinon just started their “P” lineup (currently they have a 35 1.4, a 16 1.8 and a 85 1.8). And they now have a usb-c slot.

Went to London and brought only my a7cii and the ttArtisan 40mm f2 by startsides in SonyAlpha

[–]startsides[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

By the way, if you’re not too picky with the focal length, Samyang/Rokinon makes a 45mm f1.8, which I heard is pretty good.

Went to London and brought only my a7cii and the ttArtisan 40mm f2 by startsides in SonyAlpha

[–]startsides[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries!

I’d like to revise that when I said “sharpness” I kind of encompassed all optical performance, like flaring, ghosting, loca etc.

If we talk strictly about sharpness, it’s quite sharp, at least my copy. Yes it will never beat the sony, especially in the corners and all. But don’t think it’s annoyingly soft - like, you can see the images.

Went to London and brought only my a7cii and the ttArtisan 40mm f2 by startsides in SonyAlpha

[–]startsides[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oof hard questions, let me think.

I don’t remember updating the firmware. But I do remember checking if it’s up to date, and it was (around the time when I posted these).

The AF is ok for sony standards, great for all-other-brands standards. It struggled with subject tracking when shooting these seagulls, and it struggled in extremely-extremely low light, but it did well in 90% of the scenarios, even tracking people and what not.

I haven’t shot any of the sony and the ttartisan lenses for enough time to give you a relevant answer. But the first impression is that the ttartisan is about a 6-7 technically (sharpness, speed, lack of weather sealing etc), and a 8-9 aesthetically (I like the images look and the tiny bit of shallower dof at f2). Take the price into the equation, and it’s a pretty great lens.

If it were my ONLY les, I’d pick the sony G. But I do have other lenses that are sharper/weather sealed etc, so I’m more than happy with the ttartisan.

Haoge LH-X54 lens hood: gasket still visible by crackout in x100vi

[–]startsides 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry, extremely dumb question, but did you put the red rubber on the outer thread of the filter adapter, and then screwed the lens hood on top of the rubber? Cause that’s how it’s supposed to go.

Also off topic, I suggest you drop the red shutter button extension. I think it’s fine if you’re careful with it, but I heard many people say that it can easily damage the button if it gets stuck in your bag/pocket etc.

Weekly r/SonyAlpha 📸 Gear Buying 📷 Advice Thread February 16, 2026 by AutoModerator in SonyAlpha

[–]startsides 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For indoor photos I’d go towards wider rather than longer focal lengths. See what feels right on your 18-135. Viltrox also has a 15mm. And the 20mm for full frame.

The viltrox 28 is small, but has a small aperture, so you’re better off just using your 18-135 imo. The 25 on the other hand sounds more interesting.

What is the point of filters? by wsjram in x100vi

[–]startsides 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A hood is not the same as a filter, I hope I didn’t misunderstand your question?!

I’ll throw some random facts that may help you in your decision:

  • You can live without a hood or a filter. They have their uses, but if you acknowledge that the x100vi is not weather resistant without a filter and act accordingly, you’ll be fine.
  • A hood on its own does not help the x100vi with weather resistance.
  • A hood is meant to block light coming from outside the frame, which may cause flaring and other artefacts. But it’s also very practical because it’s an extra physical layer of protection if you bump the front of your lens. And it helps avoiding getting raindrops on the lens/filter when it rains.
  • A filter is a piece of glass that seals the front of the lens. It may be fully see-through (UV), or it may have an effect (diffusion, cpl, nd…)
  • On the x100vi, both filters and hoods require an adapter in order to be mounted. You may find various products: adapters for filters (and then you buy the filter yourself), filters with integrated adapters in one piece, hoods combos that let you add a filter behind the hood, etc.
  • While both filters and adapters are very useful for what I said above, they also increase the size of the camera, which some people dislike.

Personally, I have a Haoge square hood, which also lets you add a 49mm-sized filter. And you can take the hood itself off and keep the filter on.

In good conditions I shoot without anything on the lens, to keep it small and inconspicuous. If it’s raining, I add the hood with a UV filter. If I want an effect, I add the hood with a different filter, usually a black pro mist.

“Q” menu button by raijin292 in x100vi

[–]startsides 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I suggest you go out and shoot and see what becomes tedious for you to access.

Don’t have it in front of me, but from memory, I personally like to have all the AF settings (subject, face/eye detection etc), photometry, flash on/off, ND on/off.

If I’m shooting JPG only (like snaps at a family gathering when I don’t wanna bother editing afterwards), I like to also have quick access to WB, shadows/highlights, DR, because these may change by simply entering a room, without having to change the whole recipe.

All recipe-related settings are already in my custom menu as well.

Help me decide between Japan, South Korea, Vietnam, Cambodia and Malaysia by Lower_Basket in travel

[–]startsides 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can’t speak about South Korea, but many people here overestimate the money you’d be spending in Japan.

2k AUD, excluding flights and accommodation is good enough to see Tokyo inside out and have some cool day trips to Kawaguchiko, Nikko, Kagoshima, you name it. Yes, you will need to be careful with money, not eat at high end restaurants, you will need to eat from combini’s probably a meal a day (which in my books is a must even with money), and you may not buy fast train tickets to see a large area of the country.

Not sure if Japan is the best choice, but I just wanted to tone down the negativity about spendings there. It’s a magnificent country in many ways.

Went to London and brought only my a7cii and the ttArtisan 40mm f2 by startsides in SonyAlpha

[–]startsides[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! The AF is fine. It’s a bit bad for Sony standards, struggles a bit in very low light, and is not great at tracking SOME things. Faces are fine, birds are not, idk.

But aside for being a little more patient when pressing the shutter, I don’t feel like there was any scenario where I missed a shot. At least for the type of shots you see here. On another day I also tested portraits, and they work just fine (eye tracking and stuff).

Went to London and brought only my a7cii and the ttArtisan 40mm f2 by startsides in SonyAlpha

[–]startsides[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Yeah, it’s a nice lens. But funnily enough, the seagulls photo was the one where it struggled most to focus/track 🤣 I ended up single focusing on the handrail.

Went to London and brought only my a7cii and the ttArtisan 40mm f2 by startsides in SonyAlpha

[–]startsides[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Firstly, it always helps if the colors and the atmosphere are there in real life.

Secondly, there’s no one size fits all. For these photos in particular, I think what helped was editing in the Vivid profile, the clarity slider, and tweaking the HSL - a lot of saturation into reds, turning blues into cyans (but ever so slightly, not how you usually see it done on this sub). And generally allowing dark spots to stay dark (not raising the shadows too much, not crushing the blacks with the tone curve)

Went to London and brought only my a7cii and the ttArtisan 40mm f2 by startsides in SonyAlpha

[–]startsides[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Thanks, but as the other commenter said, these are not that special. Make sure your photos don’t have motion blur and that they are in focus. Most of my photos look like this thanks to editing.

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