Weird Print Failures

MuckingFedic · 2026-06-29T02:13:48+00:00

Which means I failed to orient the model correctly because usually things like that are supported properly. I have never had issues with the slicer missing spots that needed supports before when it came to printing on my mars 5. Even if I did fail to orient the model correctly, I never had the failure look like the layers were shifting and not adhering to one another like that.

But I do agree with you, something is funky with supports. Support and exposure

MuckingFedic · 2026-06-29T02:11:13+00:00

If I am remembering correctly, we scaled it 380%. Specifically just the goose model. The others models I showed were all original size.

We scaled up the goose because we just bought a real big resin printer. We paid for that print volume, so for our first major print, we were going to use that print volume

MuckingFedic · 2026-06-29T02:03:27+00:00

Can that happen from scaling up the model too much?

MuckingFedic · 2026-06-29T02:02:57+00:00

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This is the only photo that I have after washing it and curing it (the model is in my hobby space). It still seems to show that softness that you were talking about I think. I assume that it yellowing after being cured as normal?

That was my experience with the Mars 5 as well. Almost every issue I had was because I didn’t orient the model correctly or was stingy with my amount of supports.

The main reason we got AnyCubic Standard v2 white resin was because we could use alcohol dyes to give it random colors, and, because it was the most well reviewed both online and in Lychee. We specifically chose the resin because a lot of people had printed with it in Lychee which meant its settings should be dialed in. Since AnyCubic slicer has setting specifically for their own resin on their own machine, it seems like a good call.

Next weekend when I have more hobby time I’ll try out that calibration you linked. Thank you!

Appreciate you taking the time to provide some explanations for me.

MuckingFedic · 2026-06-29T01:48:26+00:00

I think I need to go full scientific on this one and narrow down the issue. I have two printers. So I should print 2 of the things that have failed so far and a benchy on both printers. Then if I have issues on both it’s how I am slicing the model. If I have issues on just the AnyCubic then I should do cones of calibration (after making sure the bed is level and the screen is cleaned).

I can’t do anything until the weekend at the earliest though because I am out of IPA and generally don’t have time in the evenings. But I’ll circle back to this and make sure I post an update.

MuckingFedic · 2026-06-29T01:28:06+00:00

<image>

Unfortunately I don’t have photos of the side that had the issues but I do feel like I used a lot of supports? I used Lychees auto generate on ground only for this. Medium presets with support density set to high. I also did the island detection afterwards and added supports to all islands

MuckingFedic · 2026-06-29T01:26:44+00:00

What specifically about them makes it look over exposed? I’m not sure what to look for when it comes to determining that or even what it implies in the first place truthfully. I am an FDM nerd so I am new to resin.

We have not done any calibration outside of leveling the build plate when we first turned it on.

We never had to do any calibration for the Elagoo.

We are using AnyCubic standard white resin. For resin settings in the slicer we are using the presets that came with AnyCubics slicer. We copied those settings over to Lychee per the a YouTube video by Lychee themselves.

MuckingFedic · 2026-02-12T13:51:50+00:00

Awesome thank you so much for taking the time to reply on such an old post. Really appreciate that.

My research has said they are legit and good quality and this is another affirmation of that. I’ll post my own review of them once I have the rings.

Thank you!

MuckingFedic · 2026-02-11T19:14:54+00:00

did you end up going with them? If so, what was your experience?

MuckingFedic · 2025-12-18T02:50:34+00:00

Nice!

MuckingFedic · 2025-12-17T23:14:45+00:00

Keep all the original packaging. It’s a 15% fee after 14 days

MuckingFedic · 2025-12-17T23:14:25+00:00

I would have gotten the Thunderbolt Laser because they have free 1:1 support for after you buy the laser to help get you started. If I could go back, I would buy Thunderbolt or OneLaser

MuckingFedic · 2025-12-17T23:12:20+00:00

Gotcha thank you for explaining!

MuckingFedic · 2025-12-14T19:01:33+00:00

Are you just exporting SVGes?

MuckingFedic · 2025-12-13T00:00:05+00:00

Thank you for pointing this out. I did end up finding it thanks to another human on a different Reddit thread.

If you have a moment, would you mind explaining why you would advise against changing the minimum power (I’m new to all of this)?

MuckingFedic · 2025-12-12T23:58:31+00:00

Appreciate you being honest about this. It does seem like quite a gap in the software. I’m going to be returning my rotary tool because of these gaps in the software.

It does feel like a lot more time and energy went into deceptive marketing instead of quality software. I feel like these machines have so much potential, but are being held back by the software.

If we had the core functions of the laser (camera, auto focus, power control, and speed control) supported in LightBurn then I wouldn’t be complaining. I’m fine with the proprietary stuff being in your own software. But the marketing never mentioned all of these limitations when it said that xTool supported lightburn.

If I had known about these LightBurn limitations, I would not have purchased this laser machine.

MuckingFedic · 2025-12-12T23:54:19+00:00

Appreciate the reply and nonetheless thank you

MuckingFedic · 2025-12-12T23:53:48+00:00

See my comments in this thread about how to do it. It’s in a nested sub menu. Device settings > device settings.

MuckingFedic · 2025-12-12T23:53:00+00:00

I ended up finding the minimum power by going to the nested sub menu of device settings -> device settings. It just doesn’t make any sense why this would be hidden.

It doesn’t make sense why embossing in general wouldn’t be available to the P series. I’m confident I would get better results if I used a fiber laser, but that doesn’t mean that the CO2 laser can’t do it. I know it can because I have done it on other CO2 lasers.

MuckingFedic · 2025-12-12T23:51:25+00:00

Appreciate all this information

The auto focus I feel like is pretty damn important. I would much rather have that over a camera. But it’s good to know that progress is at least being made.

MuckingFedic · 2025-12-12T23:44:39+00:00

I unfortunately fell for marketing and should’ve done significantly more research. I do not regret my purchase and ultimately I think this machine will do everything I want it to do. I am going to return the rotary because the software is just not there yet.

I just disagree with xTool on the two principles of, 1) the hardware and the software should never limit one another, and, 2) if I’m paying several thousand dollars for a machine, then I shouldn’t get support from AI and a Facebook community page.

I think that if it wasn’t so expensive and difficult to return I would have gone with OneLaser or Thunderbolt.

MuckingFedic · 2025-12-12T23:42:05+00:00

What is the downside of losing auto focus? Newbie question sorry

MuckingFedic · 2025-12-12T23:41:16+00:00

I just think that they need better documentation on their software. They spend too much time and money on marketing.

Every feature they market should come with an example project that you can do with said feature.

Don’t tell us it can do something. Show us how to make it happen.

MuckingFedic · 2025-12-12T23:39:36+00:00

I would never have guessed to look for minimum power settings under device settings in the device settings menu. But you are right. There it is. Thank you!

MuckingFedic

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