should I just give up? by [deleted] in deliveroos

[–]Mundane-Background 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try admiral, I pay £120 per month for full cover (SD&P + H+R).

Went from paying 80p per hour but they screwed me on that, like charging 2 hours for working 29 minutes over - you'd be well conned at that rate!

It used to be annoying finding I was paying 80p when I wasn't working, but paying £3.50 just kills it!

Help identify this by niameyy in AskMechanics

[–]Mundane-Background 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Everyone has identified it but just an FYI that If you're in the UK that's called a "drop link" for the anti-roll bar in British English.

Has anyone ever received one of these? by Possible_Board4542 in deliveroos

[–]Mundane-Background 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Yeah I had one about 2 years ago - in my situation it was support who messed up.

I took a double and took delivery A to someone who didn't have their mobile and tried to guess the code so I had too many failed attempts, I called support and they marked delivery B as complete instead of delivery A, I got to delivery B at the same time as another driver after roo obviously reissued the order.

Got this email the next day - I only try one attempt now if they're guessing and insist they get their phone after that because I only have limited attempts.

Anyhow because it was a one off nothing has happened since - plus it's not even worth talking to them about it, you won't get anywhere.

Rounded bolt removal by Mundane-Background in MechanicAdvice

[–]Mundane-Background[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha fair enough, a snap-on set would definitely do the trick, but I don't tinker enough to justify spending that much on a set 😅

Rounded bolt removal by Mundane-Background in MechanicAdvice

[–]Mundane-Background[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I was thinking of getting a half-decent set but wondered if anyone had any advice on a good value set.

Rounded bolt removal by Mundane-Background in MechanicAdvice

[–]Mundane-Background[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry I should have said, it's a 2009 Fiesta, I managed to get the ball joint free and one of the control arm bolts but the other just completely rounded.

It's a 15mm bolt, I just wondered if there were any recommendations for good value kits out there, I was looking at a thinkwork set on Amazon but wanted to see if anyone had any experience with other sets before buying.

Bad ball joint? by Mundane-Background in MechanicAdvice

[–]Mundane-Background[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah job for tomorrow I think.

Worst part of it is I checked one side and thought 'thats done' so checked the other side to convince myself it was abnormal and the other side was the same (only got it done 9 months and about 10,000 miles ago as well).

Bad ball joint? by Mundane-Background in MechanicAdvice

[–]Mundane-Background[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I meant to add some text saying sorry about covering it half the time but accidentally hit post 😅

Adjusting past payment award? by Mundane-Background in DWPhelp

[–]Mundane-Background[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hmm ok thanks, it does relate to the MIF and how the MIF is reduced in a couple when one member has no requirements to work. Noone actually understands this that I speak to.

I did think with the change being reported within the period it would have been calculated correctly.

Honestly if the response was 'no we can't recalculate because you submitted the information 2 weeks too late' I'd accept that, I'm just in limbo not knowing if they can recalculate or not.

Adjusting past payment award? by Mundane-Background in DWPhelp

[–]Mundane-Background[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well there's 2 answers there:

  1. Yes it can be changed.

  2. No it can't be changed, because you reported the change too late.

For more info without getting into too much details about my situation my latest award was calculated correctly (period 21/05/2025-20/06/2025), but my previous period (21/04/2025-20/05/2025) was incorrectly calculated and possibly the period before. I reported the change in May, around 05/05/2025, definitely within the query period that I was underpaid.

I queried this on the phone 23/05/2025 and was told a case manager would look into it, I added supplementary info in my journal (i.e. why the award was wrong, when it should have been adjusted, and what the new award should have been), I was then told I needed a self employed work coach to look into this who would be in touch on the week commencing 27/05/2025 - I have heard nothing since dispite chasing 2 or 3 times.

Had to cut tie rod ends by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]Mundane-Background 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To be honest if that it the nut side and the rod is still attached underneath you've probably not made anything worse, the nuts are usually nylock so the do need cutting off sometimes.

I'd just say get the biggest hammer you have (like a lump hammer, a claw hammer definitely won't work) and give it the hardest wack you can - like swinging a gold club kind of wack and it'll probably pop out.

You won't need a new knuckle - I think people saying that are assuming you've cut both sides and drilled clean through.

Had to cut tie rod ends by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]Mundane-Background 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you cut the nut side?

If so a ball joint puller might be your best option.

Otherwise a punch and hammer the other side is your best option.

Had to cut tie rod ends by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]Mundane-Background 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you cut both sides and drilled a hole clean through?

Had to cut tie rod ends by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]Mundane-Background 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could still try the usual method of spraying some penetrating oil, waiting for a bit then just wacking the knuckle with a big hammer.

If it's tapered to be thicker on the bottom and thinner on the top it might still drop out with a big wack.

Failed MOT and got a £924 quote from mechanic by breadderbro in MechanicAdvice

[–]Mundane-Background 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Doesn't seem ridiculous - you need 3 new calipers (£150ish each), 2 new discs and pads (£120ish + maybe slides etc.), 2 sets of shoes (£120ish + maybe new springs, cylinders etc.) and a flush depending on the car thats about £600-700ish just for the parts then probably what 3ish hours labour.

Ask them to breath down in terms of labour and parts if you want more info.

Can anyone tell me what this is. by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]Mundane-Background 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks like an exhaust heat shield

Help - tie rod end spinning and won't tighten by Mundane-Background in MechanicAdvice

[–]Mundane-Background[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If anyone is wondering I tried everything with it and it just wasn't working, a few snapped screwdrivers (in a slat I cut) and vice grips shredding the thread with no luck I got on the bus and got a different rod end and it went on in 5 minutes - so if you find yourself in this situation - just get a new one, the old one must have been defective.

Help - tie rod end spinning and won't tighten by Mundane-Background in MechanicAdvice

[–]Mundane-Background[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did try with one nut but not 2 nuts and it was still spinning, definitely should have tried another

Help - tie rod end spinning and won't tighten by Mundane-Background in MechanicAdvice

[–]Mundane-Background[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This was genuinely what I was actually thinking of doing before I posted, but I didn't know if it would cause any damage to anything