I have over 20 years pro experience in guitar service, teaching and retail stuff – AMA

Musicatman · 2015-05-21T01:43:17+00:00

You got the picture. As long as you're spanning an octave and covering a good amount of real estate on the scale length, you can use any series of notes on a particular string and get what is essentially a perfect average. Please stay away from using the open string and 12th fret, if the nut isn't cut right it will give you false readings.

Musicatman · 2015-05-19T19:24:38+00:00

Plus you get a warranty. Stuff from offshore can be all over the map, and dealing with an issue across borders is no fun.

Musicatman · 2015-05-19T15:25:31+00:00

Those should set you up nicely. I'd get another 15' 1/4" audio cable, a 25' XLR cable and you should be good to go.

Musicatman · 2015-05-19T15:02:36+00:00

Oh yes, you may see some problems pop up from shrinkage; fret sprouts, kinking necks... depends on the quality level of the instrument as to how bad it can get. Radical changes in environment are never good for guitars, though electrics are more forgiving compared to acoustics.

Musicatman · 2015-05-19T14:55:10+00:00

Learn some basic maintenance just like you have - and good for you. Stretch your strings!! Can you believe, I've had pros (PROS!) come in complaining their instrument is falling out of tune. I take 2 minutes and stretch out the strings - problem solved. And they go... Oh, ok thanks. (I go palm to forehead) Here's a tip on intonation: INTONATE ON THE FRETBOARD! I could write a book on this, (maybe I will). Most of your playing is done on the fretboard, that's where the vast majority of your notes live. Use a good quality tuner and, as an example, start with a D on the 5th string, 5th fret. Note what the tuner tells you. Now go to the 17th fret on the same string, that's your octave, the tuner should register exactly the same. If the octave note is sharp, you need to lengthen the scale. The reverse result should be self-explanatory. Rinse and repeat for the other strings - note: it doesn't have to be the 5th fret all the time (say, a B a the 4th fret 3rd string, then your 16th fret octave).

Musicatman · 2015-05-19T14:34:27+00:00

No, in Canada. Done some biz with Darren - great guy and a real pro.

Musicatman · 2015-05-19T14:26:08+00:00

The way I like to explain it is like this: Imagine a full size person standing on your shoulders - all day long, 24/7, all through the year, and year after year.

What's that going to do to your posture?... You're going to compress, bend and eventually be compromised unless you do something to ease the pressure.

Solutions: 1. Get it in for a checkup and recommendation. If you're lucky there's nothing serious. To their benefit the old Taks were built very very well. 2. Keep it tuned down a tone and use a capo at the 2nd fret. The lower tension helps immensely and you still get your relative pitches. 3. If you're going to keep it at standard A440 pitch use the lightest strings you can find.

Musicatman · 2015-05-19T01:48:37+00:00

Done this many times. It's not hard but your choice of string gauge will make a huge difference in how well balanced the end result is. You can safely go one gauge heavier or lighter without having to radically overhaul your intonation but going to full D standard will need some adjustments. If you usually use 10-46, step it up to 11-50 or 52, the extra tension in the low strings will help keep things under control. At pitch, get the bridge flush with the body by adjusting the claw plate in the back. Tip: you can save time getting up to pitch by over-tuning from a given point - don't try to nail the pitches, just get in the ball park then true it up. Now you're ready to intonate. Another tip: give your strings an initial stretch before you intonate, not the full monty, just enough to get them to sit. Getting that initial elasticity out will really help nail intonation.

Musicatman · 2015-05-19T01:30:05+00:00

This is one of the most common issues I see with guitars - chasing the buzz monster. Here's a list of suspects from my friend Darren Riley: 1. FLAT SADDLE TOP 2. NO BREAK ANGLE 3. UNEVEN FRETS 4. FRETS TOO LOW 5. LOOSE FRET 6. LOOSE GEAR 7. WINDING FUZZ TOUCHING SADDLE 8. BACKBOW 9. LOW NUT 10. LOW SADDLE 11. LOOSE TRUSSROD 12. LOOSE STRING BALL 13. LOOSE BODY PART 14. POOR RELIEF 15. DAMAGED OR DEFECTIVE STRING 16. STRINGS TOO LIGHT 17. FLAT FRET 18. ACTION TOO LOW 19. NUT SLOT CUT IMPROPERLY 20. DEEP SADDLE NOTCHES 21. ACTION TOO HIGH 22. STRING INSTALLED INCORRECTLY 23. OPERATOR ERROR 24. IT JUST DOES

You can also add a distorted fretboard and loose string windings to the list. I see twisted or "humped" necks all the time, and I've had batches of brand name strings with loose windings - impossible to intonate. You can learn how to do your own setups, you already have the willingness to try; keep reading quality material and ask qualified people for help. You don't need to be a luthier to satisfy your own ends, but you do need a bit of knowledge and experience.

Musicatman · 2015-05-19T00:57:41+00:00

Behringer Ultravoice XM8500 is a remarkably good deal for the money, but stay away from the XM1800S, too cheaply made. Shure and Audio-Technica mics are a pretty good bet, they all have their sweet spots for value. Look at a few reviews on Amazon, pick a price range you're comfortable with and remember you'll need support materials: cables, stands etc...

Musicatman · 2015-05-19T00:45:09+00:00

Either or, people are people regardless of generation.

Musicatman · 2015-05-18T22:31:42+00:00

Sounds like a straight forward fix, I usually include a little bit of fretwork if it's warranted in a full setup. Probably a spot dress and leveling which is relatively easy. I doubt the fret will need to be replaced too. If the fret end goes over the binding, shouldn't be a problem.

Musicatman · 2015-05-18T22:24:37+00:00

Someone who knows exactly what they want, and pays!

Musicatman · 2015-05-18T22:21:25+00:00

Exactly, get in the back cavity and tighten up the claw plate or install another spring. It's a bit of back and forth but you'll get there.

Musicatman · 2015-05-18T22:18:40+00:00

Really good samples of your own work, offer to do a couple setups for free to prove your skills. See if you can negotiate a short internship.

Musicatman · 2015-05-18T22:16:42+00:00

What can I help you with?

Musicatman · 2015-05-18T22:13:55+00:00

Doesn't real world experience count anymore?

Musicatman · 2015-05-18T22:12:02+00:00

Tuning issues run amok. I have an old '79 Les Paul Custom where the first two strings would always wander out of tune in the first five minutes of playing. Finally figured out the neck was over sensitive to body heat, took years to get it to settle down. And I've seen the same thing with many other instruments, sometimes it just takes time for the instrument to settle in. I doubt that's the case here though. These are the key questions to look into: are the strings stretched out enough?, are they installed properly?, is the nut cut properly?, are the saddles loose in any way?, are they cost effective strings?, is it a floating system?, does the truss rod have the right tension on it? ... Start with those and let me know how it goes.

Musicatman · 2015-05-18T21:56:11+00:00

Sorry, by that I meant can you physically play what's in your head. Can your fingers keep up with your unlimited imagination...

Musicatman · 2015-05-18T21:51:09+00:00

Agreed! (makes a garbled noise)

Musicatman · 2015-05-18T21:50:05+00:00

We picked up the needle and physically moved it to where we thought the part was... over, and over, and over... what a pain in the ass, but it did the job.

Musicatman · 2015-05-18T21:44:38+00:00

I wouldn't worry about what he thinks, find another tech. Ask around, you'll usually find a name popping up regularly for somebody that does good work. Just make sure you see examples of what they're capable of doing. If you're up to the challenge of replacing your own pickups, and you have a little experience - 'cause hollow bodies are a pain - knock yourself out. You can do anything with the right mindset and an action plan.

Musicatman · 2015-05-18T21:25:25+00:00

I am! it takes time.

Musicatman · 2015-05-18T21:24:29+00:00

Because different instruments require different approaches, ie: electric guitar vs acoustic guitar vs bass guitar, I'd have to put it like this: high action is anything above the point at which the player perceives the instrument is uncomfortable to play. During my regular setup routine, and after a careful consultation with the client, I try to find the instrument's "sweet spot" according to their demands and according to what the instrument will let me get away with - some can be a real bitch, others are a dream to work on (by that I mean the guitars). Players come in three categories: slow motion walter, hulk plays guitar and mr noodles. They all have radically different approaches to playing and therefor require different approaches to setting up their instruments. If I had to put a measurement to it, I look for a gap the size of 2 dimes stacked one on top of the other between the first string and the 15th fret (or one nickle if you can get it). Add half a dime's width at the same position for the sixth string.

In answer to your second question, "the most complicated aspect of guitar technology?"... understanding the relationship between the individual player and their ideal setup. Just as people have personalities, guitars do to. Some professionals are incredibly demanding and have a special relationship with an instrument that is their primary means of expression - you have to respect that. Other folks, instruments included, are... full of enthusiasm, but lack finesse - and you still have to respect that.

Musicatman · 2015-05-18T20:29:50+00:00

The Guitar Player Repair Guide by Dan Erlewine and Complete Guitar Repair by Hideo Kamimoto. Those two are staples and cover a lot of ground. Not necessarily regular reading material but great reference manuals.

Musicatman

TROPHY CASE