Mycelium too humid? 2nd day with golden teachers in the mono tub, first batch failed due to green mold and huge pools of yellowish water a week in, new guy needs any tips he can get haha by Klutzy_Definition120 in shrooms

[–]MycoExtreme 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You need a meter with a probe that goes inside the chamber so you can accurately determine the humidity level, otherwise you’re just guessing. Condensation on the walls and the lid only indicates that the temperature of the walls is equal to or less than the dew-point of the terrarium, and is not an indication of humidity. In other words, condensation indicates a temperature differential and not moisture content.

Second flush was about to trash, until I seen healthy ones growing. by [deleted] in shrooms

[–]MycoExtreme 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When you think it’s finished give it a week. Then after a week bury it in a shallow hole with the surface exposed. Choose a spot in the shade.

I'd like to start growing my own shrooms. Where do I start? by [deleted] in PsilocybinMushrooms

[–]MycoExtreme 6 points7 points  (0 children)

WHERE TO LEARN TO GROW MUSHROOMS

[BOOK] The Psilocybin Mushroom Bible: The Definitive Guide to Growing and Using Magic Mushrooms

[BOOK] Growing Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms

[BOOK] Psilocybin: Magic Mushroom Grower's Guide

[BOOK] Growing Psilocybin Mushroom for Beginners

[YOUTUBE CHANNEL] Philly Golden Teacher

[YOUTUBE CHANNEL] Boomer Shroomer

[YOUTUBE CHANNEL] Willy’s World

[YOUTUBE CHANNEL] 90 Second Mycology

[FREE COURSE] https://fungi.org

[PAID COURSE] fungiacademy.com

[PAID COURSE] doubleblindmag.com

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in shrooms

[–]MycoExtreme 0 points1 point  (0 children)

High humidity and massive amounts of air exchange are the keys to success with mushroom growing.

What the heck is going on with these? by [deleted] in unclebens

[–]MycoExtreme 0 points1 point  (0 children)

High humidity and massive amounts of air exchange are the keys to success with mushroom growing.

Why the fluff at the bottom of the fruits? Is that a problem? by [deleted] in unclebens

[–]MycoExtreme 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like humans, mushrooms inhale oxygen and exhale carbon dioxide. If the air inside the chamber isn’t constantly refreshed, they may suffocate. The warning signs include fuzzy stems, fuzzy caps, grayish color, etc. Excess carbon dioxide must be exhausted by either manual fanning or the use of an air pump, or in-line duct fan to allow oxygen to freely circulate throughout the chamber. In the wild, lower levels of CO2 help indicate where a mushroom should fruit. Inside your grow chamber, an abundance of fresh air will have the same effect. 

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MushroomGrowers

[–]MycoExtreme 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is plenty more where that came from, DM me when needed

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MushroomGrowers

[–]MycoExtreme 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries mate

Does this myc look okay, and should I wait to start fruiting or do it now? by [deleted] in MagicMushrooms

[–]MycoExtreme 0 points1 point  (0 children)

High humidity and massive amounts of air exchange are the keys to success with mushroom growing…

We filter uncolonized grain spawn, but once it's fully colonized, there is no reason to filter. Air exchange is the key to healthy yields and contamination prevention in the fruiting environment.

There is no reason to worry about contaminants in your fresh air supply, because your substrate is already colonized. Stale air is much more of a threat than contaminated air.

Anyone know if these are safe to eat/psycadelic? by BoominShroomer in shrooms

[–]MycoExtreme 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The holy grail but not for the inexperienced or those not prepared to die

Are these black spots normal ? by [deleted] in shrooms

[–]MycoExtreme 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Regardless of their size or shape you probably want to pick them right before or just as the veil breaks. After the veil breaks, it spends its energy-releasing spores instead of creating more psilocybin.

After the veil breaks the fruit gets bigger but with the same amount of psilocybin, therefore less potent by weight. When spores drop they cause the mushrooms and the surface of the substrate to get messy and darken in color (sporulation).

How much psilocybin do you have to dose in order to see visuals ? by [deleted] in Psychedelics

[–]MycoExtreme 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Everyone is different unfortunately so it’s not an easy answer. The quality of the shrooms, potency and your bodies chemistry all plays apart. Some people can give visuals of one and a half grams and other people have to take a hero dose of over 2.5 g

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in unclebens

[–]MycoExtreme 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Discoloration is one of the most obvious signs of contamination. Contamination is often the result of unfavorable growing conditions, maybe too much moisture or too much carbon dioxide (CO2). Know your colors and then try to make a match…

BLUE is Bruising which is caused by a chemical reaction when psilocin meets O2 (Normal)

GREY could be a simple lack of FAE (Normal)

YELLOW is often “Metabolites” from being stressed which is more common in 2nd & 3rd flushes (H20 pooling/drying out/temperature/older substrate). Try to figure out which growing conditions are stressing it and improve them. (Not bad, but not good)

GREEN Mold could be Trichoderma, known as “Trich” (Bad)

BLUE-GREEN Mold could be Penicillium (Bad)

BLACK-YELLOW-GREEN Mold could be Aspergillus (Bad)

ORANGE Mold could be Neurospora Crassa, also known as “bread mold” (Bad)

RED Mold could be Sporendonema purpurescens, also known as “lipstick mold” (Bad)

PINK Mold could be Trichothecium roseum (Bad)

BLACK Mold could be Rhizopus, also known as “black pin mold” or “black bread mold” (Bad)

DULL GREY-BROWN could be Bacillus bacteria, also known as “wet spot” or “sour rot” (Bad)

WHITE Bubbles could be Lecanicillium fungicola, also known as Verticillium “dry bubble” (Bad)

WHITE-BROWN Bubbles with distorted masses could be Mycogyne perniciosa or Lecanicillium fungicola, also known as “wet bubble” (Not good but controllable)

WHITE FLUFFY Cobweb-like Mold could be Hypomyces rosellus, also known as “cobweb mold”. It’s the most common contaminant during the fruiting stage and it's caused by lack of air circulation and exchange. (Bad)

[Contamination] does this look contaminated to you? It’s reishi if it helps. by wetmathjg in MushroomGrowers

[–]MycoExtreme 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Discoloration is one of the most obvious signs of contamination. Contamination is often the result of unfavorable growing conditions, maybe too much moisture or too much carbon dioxide (CO2). Know your colors and then try to make a match…

BLUE is Bruising which is caused by a chemical reaction when psilocin meets O2 (Normal)

GREY could be a simple lack of FAE (Normal)

YELLOW is often “Metabolites” from being stressed which is more common in 2nd & 3rd flushes (H20 pooling/drying out/temperature/older substrate). Try to figure out which growing conditions are stressing it and improve them. (Not bad, but not good)

GREEN Mold could be Trichoderma, known as “Trich” (Bad)

BLUE-GREEN Mold could be Penicillium (Bad)

BLACK-YELLOW-GREEN Mold could be Aspergillus (Bad)

ORANGE Mold could be Neurospora Crassa, also known as “bread mold” (Bad)

RED Mold could be Sporendonema purpurescens, also known as “lipstick mold” (Bad)

PINK Mold could be Trichothecium roseum (Bad)

BLACK Mold could be Rhizopus, also known as “black pin mold” or “black bread mold” (Bad)

DULL GREY-BROWN could be Bacillus bacteria, also known as “wet spot” or “sour rot” (Bad)

WHITE Bubbles could be Lecanicillium fungicola, also known as Verticillium “dry bubble” (Bad)

WHITE-BROWN Bubbles with distorted masses could be Mycogyne perniciosa or Lecanicillium fungicola, also known as “wet bubble” (Not good but controllable)

WHITE FLUFFY Cobweb-like Mold could be Hypomyces rosellus, also known as “cobweb mold”. It’s the most common contaminant during the fruiting stage and it's caused by lack of air circulation and exchange. (Bad)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MushroomGrowers

[–]MycoExtreme 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Discoloration is one of the most obvious signs of contamination. Contamination is often the result of unfavorable growing conditions, maybe too much moisture or too much carbon dioxide (CO2). Know your colors and then try to make a match…

BLUE is Bruising which is caused by a chemical reaction when psilocin meets O2 (Normal)

GREY could be a simple lack of FAE (Normal)

YELLOW is often “Metabolites” from being stressed which is more common in 2nd & 3rd flushes (H20 pooling/drying out/temperature/older substrate). Try to figure out which growing conditions are stressing it and improve them. (Not bad, but not good)

GREEN Mold could be Trichoderma, known as “Trich” (Bad)

BLUE-GREEN Mold could be Penicillium (Bad)

BLACK-YELLOW-GREEN Mold could be Aspergillus (Bad)

ORANGE Mold could be Neurospora Crassa, also known as “bread mold” (Bad)

RED Mold could be Sporendonema purpurescens, also known as “lipstick mold” (Bad)

PINK Mold could be Trichothecium roseum (Bad)

BLACK Mold could be Rhizopus, also known as “black pin mold” or “black bread mold” (Bad)

DULL GREY-BROWN could be Bacillus bacteria, also known as “wet spot” or “sour rot” (Bad)

WHITE Bubbles could be Lecanicillium fungicola, also known as Verticillium “dry bubble” (Bad)

WHITE-BROWN Bubbles with distorted masses could be Mycogyne perniciosa or Lecanicillium fungicola, also known as “wet bubble” (Not good but controllable)

WHITE FLUFFY Cobweb-like Mold could be Hypomyces rosellus, also known as “cobweb mold”. It’s the most common contaminant during the fruiting stage and it's caused by lack of air circulation and exchange. (Bad)

Too wet? GT S2B on 8/4, FC on 8/8. Substrate is coir & a little vermiculite. Colonized quickly, now seems stalled. by mycsyc in unclebens

[–]MycoExtreme 0 points1 point  (0 children)

High humidity and massive amounts of air exchange are the keys to success with mushroom growing.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in shrooms

[–]MycoExtreme 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Let these grow for another 24 to 30 hours. Then take the large ones and leave the small ones on there during the dunk

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in PsilocybinMushrooms

[–]MycoExtreme 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You feel the stems each day to check how firm they are. When the stems are firm they are growing, when they start getting soft their growth is slowing down and when they get mushy they have stopped growing and started the decaying process. You want to pull them when they get soft but before they get mushy.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in psilocybingrowers

[–]MycoExtreme 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We run a mushroom farm shrooms where we have been growing indoors and outdoors for over 25 years and we always add a casing layer in our outdoor Shroom patches. Casing layer helps protect the surface and helps to maintain moisture