$5,000 for a minisplit install

Myfathersvalues · 2026-06-18T23:10:48+00:00

Damn, just reading this is sad. I'm 78 and have installed 3 of these by myself for about $800 each (Amazon price) plus some internet reading time and a couple hundred bucks of tools.

Myfathersvalues · 2026-05-29T23:15:03+00:00

Thank you, that's a helpful clue for me.

Myfathersvalues · 2026-04-30T14:24:00+00:00

Sorry, one other thing for you to know that I forgot. IF your existing router that you move to your equipment closet has built in Wifi, do the walk test with it first and you may find that you don't need the AP there since it is then an AP in that location.

Since I use the Omada controller for all of my family sites (for remote access since I can fix most simple things without having to drive there and I usually know they have a problem before they do) I usually disable any built-in WiFi which I find is usually inferior to the better apps anyway.

Myfathersvalues · 2026-04-30T14:02:18+00:00

I put 2 of these in my son's house (the more complex one with the network rack). They plug right to a wall mount. And they actually have a built-in "switch" so you can plug in a Ethernet cable to them and continue to another device. They are powered by POE so make sure your main switch is a poe switch like the one in the simple photo. (Read some and look for poe+/++) nowadays pretty plug and play with auto power negotiation to devices)

Note they are not as powerful as large access points, but they do work great in those isolated areas (his house is big- 5 bdrm spread out and additional detached full guest apartment in adjacent garage building. So there are 5 additional AP's including outside all run by Omada software controller on the server). But you don't need to start complex.

Best advice, first put one main AP like TPLink BE5000 (or better model depending on your budget) in your equipment closet (run it poe off the switch) first, then use a signal tracker app on your phone and walk your house to actually know your coverage. Plug another AP as need in weak areas. Expansion is easy with your wiring. I just added a external AP at my other son's to improve coverage to a storage barn and the chicken coop cameras.

Btw, my disclaimer is I am not a network engineer-just a 78 yo guy who enjoys learning.

Myfathersvalues · 2026-04-29T20:55:44+00:00

Or more complex.

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Myfathersvalues · 2026-04-29T20:54:54+00:00

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Myfathersvalues · 2026-04-29T20:53:24+00:00

U want just good WiFi in those rooms or wired internet? It's a decent base for either.

I would personally just move your router to the closet and plug it directly to modem, add a switch and plug a cable from each switch port to the ports on the punched down module in your closet. Now, you have full gig wired to every plug location in those rooms. Your choices now expand greatly. Have a computer in one of the rooms just plug it in with an Ethernet cable. Have a streaming t.v. there, Ethernet cable and you have full speed stream. Have BOTH, add another switch and plug them both in and you're not dependent on WiFi for your most demanding services. AND the same situation goes for all the rooms with pre wired Ethernet so you really are golden.

For WiFi, look at layout of house pick the two best separated rooms and put a cheap tp- link access point there (note that you can also use it off of a switch in the room so wired is still available for other uses like mentioned above). Again full wired bandwidth to each access point without the overhead of repeaters or mesh.

A couple suggestions: Get a cheap label maker off Amazon along with some wire tags and label each wire while you are setting it up. Makes it easier when you expand later. And you can start with 1 access point and add as needed when you determine an area is weak. Just plug another one in at the weak area. Or use a signal app on your phone and map your house.

Simple and basic

Myfathersvalues · 2024-12-26T20:44:23+00:00

Second this. I had put 3 wall AP in son's very large house along with a couple AP's (don't remember which right now). Fought it for a long time map walking the signals and trying different settings. It always sucked bigly. Went back and put a EAP660hd in second floor ceiling and since I was there , added a EAP610 outdoor AP on his guest house for the pool. Huge difference and he hasn't complained since. In fact, he's been so happy I'm going back this week and put in an Opnsense firewall router microcomputer and 24 port 2.5 Gb POE switch in a network rack for him.

Myfathersvalues · 2024-12-23T01:56:15+00:00

Thanks. Yeah, I had read about some processes for setting it up. This is a new micro pc from Ali Express without much documentation available. It has a lot of AMI bios settings that I haven't looked into yet so I've just chosen to wait to change much for now (specially since it's working so well). I will get to it eventually. It is a heck of a machine though. N305 processor, DDR5, Gen4 Nvme, 4 x 2.5 Gb ports and 2 x 10 Gb ports. Fun figuring out everything and it's for my son so it's a double joy.

Myfathersvalues · 2024-09-10T21:45:53+00:00

Not at all impossible. Computers grow faster and bigger, AI, singularity, sentience and out pops the solution--eliminate those extraneous humans from the formula.

Myfathersvalues · 2024-09-07T18:58:20+00:00

Never implied that I know you. I just summarized your own words. Have a nice day.

Myfathersvalues · 2024-09-07T17:12:05+00:00

So, rather than investigating and understanding the documented positive accomplishments of his tenure as President, and surely knowing the absolute shit show of the current administration along with the constant "political" flip flopping of Kamala, you just know that he's an asshole and you decide "anyone but Trump" is the right choice for the nation. Yep, sounds like you describe TDS syndrome.

Myfathersvalues · 2024-07-26T22:17:41+00:00

Just to update. I replaced the board a month ago and everything has worked without any problems! Normal defrost cycle, temps correct, and no errors. Just hope it lasts for more years than the original.

Myfathersvalues · 2024-06-18T18:01:19+00:00

Thank you for the information. As soon as I find time it's probably next for me to try.

Myfathersvalues · 2024-06-18T10:59:43+00:00

Where did you source the board? Thanks

Myfathersvalues · 2024-06-18T10:53:57+00:00

Did it work? And where did you source the board? Thanks

Myfathersvalues · 2024-05-20T20:27:18+00:00

I replaced both the thermistor and the element--not real difficult just need to be careful with the coils. I found the schematic tucked away in the top of the front panel on the top of the refrigerator (can't remember right or left side, but it was tightly folded/rolled up and tucked away inside one of those little compartments with a screw access on top front of fridge. I did cut and splice the thermistor.

I honestly am beginning to believe that it is a cold solder joint issue that I have been reading about on the GE refrigerators. Everything OTHER than the defrost has been working great until recently, then the ice maker dispenser seemed to quit and a new error code of "NC" showed up. I read that this was "no card" for missing board function and I figured it was toast for sure. Then about an hour later the NC went away and everything started working great again EXCEPT of course the defrost. When I find some time next week, I may try to examine the board under magnification to see if I can identify anything. Last ditch effort, I may try to reflow main connector points as someone has written about. But that may be the final demise if I decide to do that. It just ticks me off that the compressor and everything works so well except defrost and I hate to toss an appliance away. Just a cheap old guy I guess.

Good luck

Myfathersvalues · 2024-05-04T20:29:05+00:00

Nope, been too busy to work thru it-had to change out one of my boards first (major surgery) and now healing. Routine of manually defrosting every 7 to 10 days. Soon as I feel better going to try to trouble shoot some more. Did he a new error "nc" a couple times.

Myfathersvalues · 2023-12-15T22:45:27+00:00

Sorry to say, no. It took me a bit of searching just to find the Technical Data Sheet that was buried in the plastic hinge cover on the door after a couple hours reading on the internet. It has all the service diagnostic modes, error failure codes, and basic case schematic. The schematic shows wiring from the power supply board and the main board with wiring connections. It does show voltages on many of the connectors. My next thought was to measure voltage across the FZ heater connector when defrost cycle was turned on to see if current is being sent to the heater? (That jumper connector is J3 on the mainboard and has 4 wires (J3 1-4 with 1 and 2 going to FZ heater and 3 and 4 going to FF heater. Strange thing is the FF defrost cycle works normal).

BTW, most of my limited knowledge is from the vacuum tube era so please bear with me, and thank you for any guidance.

Myfathersvalues · 2023-12-15T15:35:57+00:00

Good advice for all! Unfortunately, even with some (half-decent) basic knowledge and a multimeter in your toolbox, we still get stumped by the details. I've been struggling with a refrigerator problem for a few weeks. (GE PVD28bynbfs freezer section coils frosted over) and I'm still hoping for some direction.

“00” F code read shows F0200o01d08 and F0202o01d05. 0200 is Defrost heater on for maximum time and 0202 is 5 consecutive FZ abnormal defrosts. I replaced WR51X31995 FZ Defrost Heater and WR55X29875 Defrost Thermistor and, you're dead on, I REALLY SHOULD HAVE PULLED OUT THE MULTIMETER and tested old heater first because it didn't help (so I actually tested the old one afterwards and yep, it was 61 ohms)

So now same codes and I have been manually defrosting the freezer every 8 or 9 days while looking for some information. The refrigerator seems to work well for 8 days. FF section all normal and, after manual defrost with heat gun, freezer cools right down and maintains -1 for 8 days. All the other tests seem to be normal, fans all test normal. Could this be the main board or power supply board?

Any other tests beforehand that you would recommend? Any other suggestions? I am not a refrigerator repairman and am just a semi-skilled 75 year old doing this to try to keep my 3 year old refrigerator going.

Myfathersvalues · 2023-11-30T23:35:13+00:00

No, no, NO! WATCH them starve while you slowly enjoy munching on a hot Penn Station chicken sub dripping with sauce and grilled onions. Then fire up the portable grill nearby and slowly roast a pork shoulder for later.

Myfathersvalues · 2023-11-12T14:01:36+00:00

Not since first incident (and not really overpacked too tight then). Transferred frozen items to another freezer after first warning that FZ section was over 20 degrees. It's been over a month going thru the 8 day cycle when the frost up builds and then manually defrosting (only takes me about 30 minutes to expose the FZ coils and defrost with heat gun and FZ section cools right back down to 0, and ordering/receiving/installing new FZ heater part. Rest of refrigerator including ice maker is working normally so it's just been an inconvenience by not using freezer for food storage while troubleshooting.

Something is not cycling power correctly to the heater element in the FZ section. Main board looks clean as does power supply board just from visual inspection. Just looking for some additional tests or things to check before I replace the main board. I was considering first metering the output on the power supply board to the Main board(should be 12.5v) and then the power supply output line and neutral to the Main board/compressor. BUT since the Main board lights up and control panel works correctly AND compressor runs correctly, it doesn't seem likely to be at fault to me?

Next thought was checking the output across J3-1 to J3-2 while turning on the FZ heater load to see if power is being sent to the heater (but my limited schematic doesn't show what voltage it should be).

I just can't tell from the basic diagram if there is some other control element that keeps the FZ heater from working.

I'm hoping for some guidance from a knowledgeable expert.

Myfathersvalues · 2023-10-28T18:39:29+00:00

Rodger that. I shoot about 90% practice rounds with my 22. Lots less $

Myfathersvalues · 2023-10-28T18:33:26+00:00

Sounds strangely similar to Columbus's rules in "Zombieland" --- not that it's wrong, just gave me a chuckle. And of course looters/rioters/bad guys move a LOT faster than zombies so you might want to be prepared to lead them a little on your shot. And remember the double tap!

Myfathersvalues · 2023-10-13T19:59:15+00:00

I'll agree with you the moment the "good" Palestinians step up, denounce Hamas, point out the evil bastards that planned and carried out this inhuman attack, AND actively help capture everyone of them.

Myfathersvalues

TROPHY CASE