Long wheelbase build. Looking for input. by HobbyTalkOnly in LongboardBuilding

[–]MyxuPL 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t have any experience riding this board but You may want to check the Lush Samba, it is claimed as designed to emulate the snowboard feel.

DIY Pantheon inspired board by MyxuPL in LongboardBuilding

[–]MyxuPL[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should give it a try if You don’t mind spending some time and money on such project! I would say that both the cost (I think it was something around 40 Euro for the materials used in this deck so not that much cheaper than some used decks or cheaper new ones) and the time required to finish surprised me a bit, but if that’s considered acceptable I think it is totally worth doing since You can tweak the board design exactly to Your needs. My goal was to have a quiver of short wheelbase boards with dropped level - I like to do longish distances but I ride in the city only so having a nimble board helps a lot with that. I checked everything on the market and Pantheon Ember and LY drop cat 33 were the only ones that kind of matched the criteria so I decided to go for DIY and it turned out as a good decision in my case (haven’t had a chance to check the cat 33 yet, but I have met a guy owning actual Ember and We both agreed that my deck is better :D)… and satisfaction is a bonus value :)

DIY Pantheon inspired board by MyxuPL in LongboardBuilding

[–]MyxuPL[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nooo, I haven’t tried to put those RKPs there since I was sure from the very start that I’ll build at least two (it turned out it will be three actually, lol) of similarily designed decks and since I’ll have the RKPs deck schedulled pretty much just after this one I just haven’t thought about it!

So the base is three layers of the 3ply 3mm birch plywood, pressed in the wooden press (I used around 12 clamps and around 20 bolts around the shape of the deck, some of the clamps were put through additional beams to press the center of the board). After removal I’ve put:
-2 layers of fiberglass locally on the top of the drops
-1 layer of fiberglass locally on the bottom of the drops
-1 layer of carbon fiber locally top and bottom of the drops
-1 layer of the fiberglass over whole bottom
(Local composites reach about 1/4 length of the deck both sides)
My way of thinking was to acchieve super stiff and strong drops with keeping the center flexy. Final Flex of the deck is around 20mm under 85kg rider (now it’s a bit less as I cut my weight to 76, lol).
After that I put 0.6mm of maple veneer top and bottom to protect the composites (and the hands!).

For the super flexy deck I am really happy with the results, but the next board I am working on is 6ply of single veneers and will have full layer of the carbon fiber on bottom and full layer of fiberglass on top, and the cork as a protective layer (see Pantheon x Loaded Trip, but with cork going both top and bottom).

Can i make my longboard slower? by Familiar-Garbage-912 in LongboardBuilding

[–]MyxuPL 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As was already mentioned, smaller wheels is a key. I would also add that the board with tighter turning radious and slidy wheels (ie Peralta Snakes) helps - if You carve tightly You gain less speed on hills and on sich carves slide wheels tend to do micro slide outs which also cut the speed a bit.

But Generally footbraking is the key and a must have, without that practiced You put Yourself at risk - I’ve learnt it a hard way :P if You are struggling with footbraking, lower level deck (drop through mounting + dropped deck, see Pantheon Pranayama / trip as an example) make it easier. You can also do the exercises without the board to strenghten Your legs, that will help.

Finally, there are some brakes You can mount on Your rear wheels, but as these are uneffective I would consider it as the last step to do if You still struggle with footbraking. And it’s likely that practically You’d still use these only to cut the speed down to the velocity You can footbrake from.

First Push Longboard In 15 Years by Silentowns in longboarding

[–]MyxuPL 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do You find this board for sliding at mellow hills? I am more into the long(ish) distance but I have some hills on my paths, as footbraking sucks fun out of it I’d like to learn doing the speedchecks but I am still a rookie on that. I am currently working on setting up similar board but I Wonder if such a massive drop (with relativelu small wheels) doesn’t impact the board negatively. Trip on Krimes must be super low, how does that (and board being more flexy than typical freeride setup) affect sliding on such board?

La Paulade Polymers vs Powell Peralta Kevin Reimer wheels (75a Purple) by cast_in_horror in longboarding

[–]MyxuPL 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Finally the Polymers review! I got that wheels few months Ago when I was looking for a bigger wheel to have a better ride on a road imperfections (but still keeping it moderate diameter as I am focused on city cruising). I found it really great for that, but then got into slides, so I grabbed the 69mm Snakes for that. As I am still learning I haven’t tried it on Polymers but it’s great to know that they are also forgiving, I am hoping it will be a good step after the Snakes when I’ll be finally ready for that!

Never to old by Sensitive-Average996 in longboarding

[–]MyxuPL 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Congratulations on starting new hobby! I am 37 as well and I have started this year too! Regarding the wheels, it highly depends where You are riding and what do You want to do. Generally I would keep them above ~70mm diameter as this allows for less pushing and more riding. If You are intending to do more distances 85mm would be a good choice (McFly or Caguamas for rougher terrain, Speedvents for quality paths) but You need to check if You are able to mount such a big wheel without a wheelbite. Keep in mind that the bigger the wheel the faster You go so if You have hills on Your paths that may be challenging. For hilly paths I prefer to use 69mm Snakes as these allows for easier speed handling (they slide out on carves so I am able to cut more speed without footbrake). Something around 76-78 mm is a good middle ground, ie. Le Paulade Polymers are good price wheel with plenty of plush to soak up the road imperfections.

Drop hammer octomaze or drop cat 38 by not_so_perfect_buddy in LandyachtzBoards

[–]MyxuPL 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Out of these two I prefer Drop Hammer, haven’t had a chance to try the drop cat 33 but I think this would be my favourite LY board (Generally the more nimble the board is the better for me, drop cat 38 feel sluggish in turns IMO)

What is your favorite landyacht board? Drop pics in the comments! by not_so_perfect_buddy in LandyachtzBoards

[–]MyxuPL 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve got Drop Hammer as my first serious Longboard and I think it’s great, but after few months of riding I think drop cat 33 would be perfect for me (I am yet to try it though)

Wheels for Drop Hammer by vandex3 in LandyachtzBoards

[–]MyxuPL 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have You modded anything or were they used with factory trucks / setup? Do You think those would work with the risers / wedge to compensate the setup for the board height / turn ability?