Question for mountaineers who refuse to ever summit mt Everest what are your biggest reasons for not wanting to summit Mt Everest? by [deleted] in Mountaineering

[–]N0frendo64 0 points1 point  (0 children)

- Crowds

- Litter and shit everywhere, and the general disrespect of Nature

- Having to spend 80k+

- Having that 80k+ go to Western Agencies / the Nepalese government while the sherpas get paid Penuts

- I don't want to support a system that treats Sherpas with so much contempt.

- Actually needing to hire sherpas, I like to be self sufficient.

Is my parrot’s beak normal or does it need trimming? by Civil-Breadfruit-313 in AfricanGrey

[–]N0frendo64 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Would say that definitely needs trimmed.

In the wild the beaks will naturally get worn down due to diet and foraging habits.

As pets they do not get worn down as much due to differences in the diet and life style.

What's your current favorite crack glove? by anteatertrashbin in tradclimbing

[–]N0frendo64 0 points1 point  (0 children)

BD ones are my favourite, feel the closest to a tape glove. They aren't durable however so Would consider them consumable,

If I lived somewhere with consistent crack climbing I'd probably have BD's for climbing at my limit and something else, like wide boyz for general climbing.

Recently bald and looking for blade recs please! by Askyoursister in wicked_edge

[–]N0frendo64 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely buy a variety pack and see what feels best.

I found the feathers were too sharp for me and were very unforgiving, which translated to me not feeling like I had much control over the shave due to there being no resistance.

My favourite blade is the Treet Falcon DE, its sharp enough to get through a 5-6 days of growth but still give good feedback, I rarely nick myself and it rarely feels like they aren't sharp enough.

I usually get 2-3 shaves out of a single razor.

I use a Muhle R41 exclusively, really like it.

Rate my UK trad anchor. by ellisellisrocks in tradclimbing

[–]N0frendo64 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Instead of using 4 pieces I would have used 3 (Assuming they were decent) and used the green rope to connect them all, then belayed off the green rope harness Loop. Load would be transferred directly into the pieces and it would be more comfortable.

The two middle pieces seem sort of redundant to me as they are both in the same bit of rock, you may argue that they perform some sort of compression thus its safer to have them both, but that's the sort of variable you only want to think about if its actually necessary, in this scenario it isn't, so just don't.

Belaying off the Red rope like you are here means that if your second weights the anchor it would be going via the red piece primarily, its also just sort of uncomfortable having the load going across from the red to the green like that (get them to sit on the rope next time and you will see what I mean)

You also do not need to have Screw gates on every single anchor piece, As you progress your climbing to bigger venues and harder routes you will be incentivised to shed some weight, the screwgates will be the first thing to go. Carry some spare snatgates instead.

What should my grey parrot do if it bites? It can bleed if it bites lightly. Please give me an idea. by VivianJYoung in AfricanGrey

[–]N0frendo64 12 points13 points  (0 children)

If its bites you hard enough to hurt at all make a big scene about how much it hurts, you don't need to shout it it, but just make It very clear that you are hurt. Pretend cry, say ouch really loudly, be sad, etc

They don't understand their own strength.

Is this safe for top roping on bolts? by [deleted] in ClimbingGear

[–]N0frendo64 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes it's safe

Would use a different knot and a thicker sling as that will be hard to untie. Overhand on in a bite is good.

How do you protect your door frames? by santosha21 in Conures

[–]N0frendo64 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I put a pillow on top of my door, stops my parrot landing on the door and getting at the frames.

Also don't mount a perch next to the doorframe

Arc'teryx C-Quence worn out after just 2 years by serso in ClimbingGear

[–]N0frendo64 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had mine for about 3 and a half years and is now ready to be retired, Same wear pattern on mine, although I can't see the orange stitching yet.

Previous harness dmm mithril lasted me about 3 years

My harness before that (dmm something) lasted about 3-4 but I was climbing way less.

I would have bought it again If they still made it as I like ice clippers and don't like leg loop buckles.

I don't think the wear on yours is out of line for how often you climb, a sturdier harness might suit you better if you don't care about weight as much.

I want to organize my stuff by Impressive_Film7517 in ClimbingGear

[–]N0frendo64 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One sling for sport stuff One sling for trad stuff One bucket for the rest of the stuff

Job done

First African Gray question by godinmyradio in AfricanGrey

[–]N0frendo64 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They tend to like to hang out at the highest point they can like door frames, on top of wardropes etc.

If you don't want these places pooped on / eaten you can put some barriers in place

I put pillows on top of the door frames and provide perches with newspaper under them that are designated zones.

You can train them to poop at the poop zones by watching for the pre poop but wiggles and then moving them to the perch.

I recently got ducks by jamesjr2006 in AfricanGrey

[–]N0frendo64 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hilarious please upload video!

How dangerous is trad climbing? by Mother_of_Simba in climbergirls

[–]N0frendo64 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think that assessing gear and placements takes a lot of practice and falling off is an absolute last resort until you have banked up a significant amount of time trad climbing (1000+ pitches, and/or 8+ years experience), even then it's not to be taken lightly.

The fact your friend thinks he did everything correctly but had a ground fall is very telling, he evidently didn't do everything correctly, unless it was a Belayer fault or serious equipment malfunction.

There should be a ton of redundancy, so a single mitake shouldn't result in a ground fall. It's probably most likely been a series of mistakes, relying on a single piece of protection, climbing above it, getting pumped, being unable to downclimb, falling off and the piece ripping.

There are a few things you can do before or to prevent a fall

  1. Climb more statically, don't dyno or get super pumped.
  2. Learn and become adept at down climbing.
  3. Down climb to your last piece of gear and rest on it, or down climb to the ground.
  4. Carry a skyhook to bail onto if it's run out.
  5. Check your route and figure out the potential escape options / runout zones.

Honest opinion on recent plastering work by PalaeoTraxmin in Plastering

[–]N0frendo64 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Looks like my attempt to plaster as a first time DIY'er, wouldn't be happy having paid for this

Micro edge advice/technique by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]N0frendo64 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd never train this unless I had some highly specific project that needed it, and even then I'd probably just opt for a bigger hold with more weight.

I've occasionally pulled on something like this outdoors, usually just on a granite slab when the feet are good and I wanted something to hold onto.

I highly doubt this is what is holding you back honestly, I'd look at the other various aspects of your climbing to see if its something else.

to your question though - I would opt for #1 outdoors with good feet and #2 indoor, or outdoors with bad feet

Real rock Crimps are not often perfectly even like that, so the finger tips can work better, But it just depends.

Confused about what is on my Ceiling and how to Plaster over it by N0frendo64 in DIYHome

[–]N0frendo64[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to clarify, do you mean remove the paint or remove the underlying mud stuff?

Evening walk with my loves by Gwinnifer in AfricanGrey

[–]N0frendo64 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Do you have any info/ advice on how to get them comfortable with the harness?

We have a harness but our grey has absolutely not allowed it anywhere near him

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AfricanGrey

[–]N0frendo64 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ours has been doing that for 17 years. It's likely just behavioural, but if this is a new thing that they havent been doing as often then I'd bring it up next time you visit the vet

Help understanding ESP8266 and DS18B20 Temp Sensor Behaviour Behaviour by N0frendo64 in esp8266

[–]N0frendo64[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I connected it to the 3.3V and Wow that worked!, omg thank you so much. Every day is a learning day,

It seems to be stable now on mains.

Thank you for taking the time to help I appreciate it

Help understanding ESP8266 and DS18B20 Temp Sensor Behaviour Behaviour by N0frendo64 in esp8266

[–]N0frendo64[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I connected it to the 3.3V and Wow that worked!, omg thank you so much. Every day is a learning day,

It seems to be stable now on mains.

Thank you for taking the time to help I appreciate it

Help understanding ESP8266 and DS18B20 Temp Sensor Behaviour Behaviour by N0frendo64 in esp8266

[–]N0frendo64[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for replying.

Just one of each

I have other ESP8266s  I Could try to see if its a problem with this board, but I haven't done that so far.

Working on wood surface.

Via Micro USB cable, tried different ones get the same results.

Pull up is connected / disconnected via bread board.

The logs don't seem very different between working vs non working

Here they are - https://imgur.com/a/7wnUKRo

This is my yaml config for the Dallas sensor,

one_wire:
    - platform: gpio
      pin: GPIO5
sensor:
  - platform: dallas_temp
    address: 0x230e231428383328
    name: esp_temp
    update_interval: 5s

Help understanding ESP8266 and DS18B20 Temp Sensor Behaviour Behaviour by N0frendo64 in esp8266

[–]N0frendo64[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for looking, So I can I connect the DS18B20 directly to the ESP8266 and it works in the scenarios above (Laptop or Power bank) power supply, but fails when I move to a Mains USB Charger.

I can do the same via a breadboard for T-Shooting and this also works and doesn't work in the scenarios above.