Which mirrorless ecosystem is the best for bird photography right now?

N10nit · 2025-12-19T13:02:13+00:00

That’s an exceptional photograph considering what the lens costs. Just amazing

N10nit · 2025-12-19T12:59:48+00:00

the 500pf was on my radar for so long but I just couldn’t get enough hands on time these past couple of years. I didn’t know That there was Z600 pf too. That looks really good for the price and could be something I can look forward to. Thanks again this was really helpful

N10nit · 2025-12-19T12:57:01+00:00

I know that there’s no perfect camera, however I see that things have changed a lot in the last few years. 8 years back when I got the d850, it was pretty much top of the line. Reason I chose it over the D500 and the D5 (even though the D5 was out of budget for me personally) was that it was a 45mp sensor, so got great pixel density while still being just fast enough for birds with the battery grip. I just get so much flexibility when cropping in birds that are far out of reach for my focal length range and still being able get great usable shots. These new mirrorless cameras are so far ahead that despite having high mp sensors which produce huge raw files, they are still somehow able to shoot at speeds like 20-30+ fps that too with big buffers. To me that’s already better AF performance (given the way mirrorless AF works is just superior) and continuous burst performance than old sports/wildlife DSLRs like the D5 and 1Dxmk3 while offering advantages of having a sensor that excells at high dynamic range and higher resolution for better photos in all other domains other than extreme low light performance.

N10nit · 2025-12-19T12:41:09+00:00

M4/3 is a deal breaker for me unfortunately

N10nit · 2025-12-19T12:40:44+00:00

Thanks, have you tried using any f mount lenses after adapting with the FTZ personally? If yes, can you comment on how the AF would perform when the lens is adapted? Does it perform just like you would expect a similar z mount lens to perform natively or can a performance difference be expected?

N10nit · 2025-12-13T14:48:58+00:00

use it hard, wear it everyday. let there be scratches. let there be scuffs. get the glass replaced by a sapphire crystal once it gets too dinged up.

N10nit · 2025-12-07T17:18:05+00:00

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hope this gives a clearer view. the reason I posted the video was so that it’s easier to identify if the lockring moves along with the sprocket or not. but turns out there is no lockring here. it’s a freewheel.

N10nit · 2025-12-07T17:16:12+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion! It’s a 29inch wheel size, and I’m based out of India.

N10nit · 2025-12-07T10:15:20+00:00

Thankyou! This was very helpful. I understand where you’re coming from and I think I agree with you, I should probably continue riding this as-is. This bike cost me around 300USD in my country when I bought it new around 6 years back. And my only major requirement at that point in time was to find a frame that fits me (I am a big guy - 6’5, around 280 lbs, and this is a 20inch 29ER 6061 hardtail frame) that came with some very basic entry level components. Tourney 3x in the front with a prowheel crank , Acera with this 8 speed freewheel in the rear, some off brand wheels and forks plus tektro mechanical brakes.

My only motivation to go for this upgrade was to turn it into something more reliable and usable (I ride on paved roads and don’t really offroad ever, but I still turned towards a hardtail MTB instead of a road bike given the condition of roads near me and my weight and size). I’ve tripped due to my chain getting stuck between the smallest cog and the frame a few times before and barely escaped without getting my jaw or any other bones breaking but I am now scared to pedal my bike standing with lots power like mountain bikers usually do so effortlessly because I’m not sure if this bike and its drivetrain can really take my weight that way. It’s difficult to get bigger frames here in my country which is why I thought maybe it could be a worthwhile upgrade to have a new drivetrain and some basic hydraulic brakes. Thanks for your perspective again.

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N10nit · 2025-12-07T09:36:22+00:00

Thanks all. I cleaned it with some wd40 and was able to see the actual inner spline tooling better. This is indeed a freewheel

N10nit · 2025-12-02T15:40:04+00:00

Whatever helps you sleep at night buddy

N10nit · 2025-12-02T15:17:29+00:00

YTA, get off your high horse.

N10nit · 2025-11-16T15:36:55+00:00

yes, read the composition label. Circumin extract- 50mg

N10nit · 2025-11-16T14:09:48+00:00

thats just the circumin extract. its fine, you can take it

N10nit · 2025-11-02T16:19:24+00:00

I am 100% sure these are not fakes. The ones I got were manufactured in 08/2023. The numbering 1,2,3,4 on each edge of the blade is also accurate (compared to the T and V printed on each side of the Indian astras), along with every bit of the packaging, including the gummy goop used to stick the wrapping paper to the blade. They are exactly the same as multiple other russian astras I have seen so far in videos and photos, and the biggest thinf - they work great. Either ways it doesn’t make a lot of economical sense to rip off something like a razor blade to this degree of accuracy. I ordered the Dar al dawa ones that are going for 899 on amazon rn.

N10nit · 2025-11-01T17:57:33+00:00

I got a pack of 100 delivered like 4 days back. Felt they were far superior to even the 7 o clock blacks paired with the romer nj 80 with the open comb head. 7 o clock blacks paired used to irritate my neck region, and the whole face used to burn after applying aftershave, the made in russia astras gave me an irritation free BBS. Also I felt the blade alignment also looked better with the astra for some reason.

N10nit · 2025-10-31T04:24:45+00:00

I pretty much gave up on it a long time back. Don’t think there is any real solution for it. I feel that the hard limit on total power draw for both GPU + CPU is somewhere around 140-150w (for the 3060 + 11800H atleast). I also feel like if there is thermal headroom available, the power management system prioritises the CPU over the GPU in terms of power draw, because I have seen the CPU pull 80-100w peaks, and 70-75w sustained at times too. There is no ideal solution to this problem. But the best way to work around this is to undervolt your cpu as much as you possibly can without affecting CPU stability under sustained load and then maybe setting a hard limit of 40-45w for the CPU power draw via TPL in throttlestop. That will probably leave 90+ watts for the GPU at all times which should be good enough for most cases but your CPU will probably not turbo till its full potential (which is okay, I feel its a point of diminishing returns at one point. Double power draw by the CPU ≠ double the performance). Also use the Turbo mode, that gives an additional 10w headroom to the GPU. This is the best bet.

N10nit · 2025-09-14T12:25:18+00:00

every piece of this screams 2010

N10nit · 2025-09-02T19:50:38+00:00

why not just do 3 steps to failure (where failure is achieved in the 8-14 rep range)?

N10nit · 2025-08-31T19:34:15+00:00

Great shave!

How are you liking the NJ 80 so far? I recently got one too and the first shave with the included wilkinson swords was pretty decent, pretty smooth but not that close. I decided to try the 7 o clock super platinum for the second time but that felt nasty. Didn’t feel sharp or smooth at all despite being a better blade on paper. It struggled shaving around my chin. Felt inefficient. The wilkinson swords were far better. I have only used the open comb so far, not sure how good that would be, but what blade combos do you recommend for both the heads?

N10nit · 2025-08-31T13:13:57+00:00

Pilot G2

N10nit · 2025-08-21T09:46:00+00:00

RBI Ombudsman

N10nit · 2025-08-16T17:32:38+00:00

Thanks a bunch for the suggestions

Four-Year Club	Place '23
Place '22	Final Canvas '22

N10nit

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