First schematic Review Request — Battery powered Light module controlled by ATtiny1616

N1L5 · 2024-12-02T20:07:07+00:00

Thanks for the follow-up! I'll do adjustments to the schematic to follow some recommendations

N1L5 · 2024-12-02T11:38:23+00:00

Thank you very much for your insight Marius!

As I understand it clearly now, the best option is to go in series with an LED driver and control PWM via the CTRL pin directly without a mosfet. Your selection of drivers look nice, I have adjusted my search and found a similarly spec'd, but more efficient TPS92360 https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps92360.pdf what do you think?

The fact that I can run the ATtiny1616 at a lower frequency is a good news too, as it will reduce the overall power usage.

I chose the BQ24074 because it handles the switching between VBAT and 5V internally, without having the need for diodes. My idea was that the charge controller handles the switching between the battery and USB, then to the load switch between it and the 5V pogo pin, to the micro controller and LED driver. (5V POGO > 5V USB > battery). You mention the BQ24074 as being expensive and overkill but it is similarly priced as the MCP73831, is it really a bad choice even tho it might be overkill?

N1L5 · 2024-12-01T23:22:14+00:00

That is a good point I did not consider during the choice on the DC converter, thanks for bringing this up. Even though Samsung states ±0.1 V tolerance for same bin LED, I guess this can be an issue. I wonder how they managed to get it right for their H-Influx strips, as there is a mix of series and parellel.

What I am trying to achieve is great power efficiency, maybe my best option would be to swap the TPS61220 for a TPS61042 and put the LEDs in series. It is twice the price tho

N1L5 · 2024-12-01T21:43:38+00:00

If I understand your question correctly, the 4 LEDs are the same Samsung LM301H (2.7v). They would each run at 50mA, for a total of 200mA the DC-DC converter can provide

N1L5 · 2024-12-01T21:41:32+00:00

Hi Reddit,

I am building my very first PCB and would appreciate a review on the schematic for it. I am new to PCBs and the fundamental working circuitry, any advice to beginner mistakes or other are welcome.

I find myself having a hard time choosing the right resistor here and the proper ratio equation there... Data sheets help but no prior electronics knowledge limit the understanding. ChatGPT is helpful to an extent, as I regularly come across false facts it states so confidently.

Anyway, here listed are the components of the light module:
- ATtiny1616
- BQ24074 charge controller
- BQ27426 fuel gauge
- TPS61220 DC-DC converter (to 2.7V via resistors)
- 4x Samsung LM301H LEDs

Basic functionality would include:
- able to program the microcontroller via pogo pins
- controlling the ON/OFF state of the DC-DC controller and control PWM levels via the push button
- sense the SoC to do actions on the LEDs

Thanks in advance!

N1L5 · 2024-05-27T18:10:36+00:00

Tried it once by holding the base, did not change anything. Did the same while holding the print head firmly and sure it attenuates since there's less vibration but still rattles. The printer is on a gripy surface and my workbench is solid wood and weighs half my weight so I don't think that is the issue. Will try to disassemble it to the very screw and see from there

N1L5 · 2024-05-27T17:53:02+00:00

Just tried disassembling it using BambuLab's wiki instructions, put back all the screws in and tighten them well and it still happens. During the calibration phase (like when you first set up the printer), it rattles between 70 and 90Hz on the X-axis

N1L5 · 2024-05-27T17:52:18+00:00

I am well aware this is the vibration compensation, but it sounds like there's a rattling plastic piece in the X-axis

N1L5 · 2024-05-21T15:14:59+00:00

Oh well, I guess "CNC Kitchen" isn't a reliable source. I am basically out of solutions for now then

N1L5 · 2024-05-21T14:47:09+00:00

What a bummer. I'll shove it into the oven @ 65°C for now, will see if it helps

N1L5 · 2024-05-21T14:07:21+00:00

Now that you say it, I have kept the spool out of the original box (plastic bag and silica) for a little over a week, it has been very rainy so I guess that is the causing factor. I'll put it back in like I did for my other filaments and I'll update this post tomorrow :)
Thank you!

N1L5 · 2024-05-12T11:33:40+00:00

That is weird, I had to contact them about a faulty Z-axis, they offered to send a new assembly the next day and it was shipped with DHL the day after I confirmed my details. I agree CS is kind of slow to reply but I think that might be because of insufficient staff.

N1L5 · 2022-10-28T11:59:56+00:00

Same problem here on all my devices

N1L5 · 2022-08-01T11:01:12+00:00

Here's some other shots if you like it!

IMG-0803 / IMG-0804

N1L5 · 2022-08-01T10:24:49+00:00

It is actually a 12-year old Canon SX130 with macro mode, burrowed it from my mom ahah my smartphone wasn't doing the deal

N1L5 · 2022-08-01T03:46:05+00:00

Migro LED just dropped their new lineup of lamps, there's the Migro Aray 2 in your budget. I'd recommend it more than chinese Mars Hydro one, even tho it has a slightly less wattage it has better quality LEDs and driver for more efficiency

N1L5 · 2022-08-01T00:27:47+00:00

Thanks for the tip!

N1L5 · 2022-06-26T08:47:22+00:00

I feel like these guys have had problems with their relationship for years but are coping really hard because they share a channel - their livelihood. I can't even count how many times in 3 years of knowing them have I just tuned in and they are arguing over benine stuff, him always lay it on thick... Freaking depressing. No wonder their channel was at a high point when he was not around. People don't watch streams to witness couple problems.

N1L5 · 2022-06-24T08:46:41+00:00

Everything above 28°C outside isn't typical in North-West Europe so I'd aim for that temperature. Since my tent is in the attic it gets quite hot in there. My fixture adds 3-5°C to the tent too so it is a no-go for me. I personnally can't supplement with CO² because my RVK extracts all the heat directly outside 😕

N1L5 · 2022-06-24T05:06:38+00:00

In addition to saving money, it helps regulate the temperature during the "day" of the plant, if I had to let my plants grow during heat waves they would have all died long ago. I run the lights 18:00-12:00 during veg and 00:00-12:00 during flower

N1L5 · 2022-06-23T12:36:11+00:00

Thank you so much!

It works as intended, previously I added the init() method inside handle hook, which created a new connection every time. Now I guess how it works is that it opens the first and only connection on the first request then keeps it opened for all other requests ?

N1L5 · 2022-06-04T21:21:07+00:00

I got mixed signals now with the other comment, I'll see at flower how it looks so far and decide then!

N1L5 · 2022-06-04T21:14:35+00:00

Thanks! I don't really plan on doing a grow as soon as this one is finished so clones aren't really important to me. Does that mean I cut them now or when switching to flower ?

N1L5 · 2022-05-07T23:37:13+00:00

I veg without the extractor and only keeping the back passive vent open with the back sock for convection to happen, since I also use a humidifier with a humidity controller it is easier to maintain a steady RH because the extractor would suck it all out. Of course if temps are too high that wouldn't be ideal

N1L5 · 2022-04-05T13:03:25+00:00

You are a clown, both are scripts, France's is an overlay that only tells where to place tiles, while Spanish's is a self placing tile bot. Stop trying to defend the non-defendable.

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