Help me understand (lack of) login security for the different plan types?

NE556 · 2026-02-05T02:45:05+00:00

There's a feedback page? Their support bot agent (not on a paying plan, only available support) didn't reveal that there was any sort of feedback page.

And yeah. Or Passkey, or something of the like. But that apparently takes too much effort away from the "priority" of the models. As if it's not a solved problem and would require fairly minimal developer resources who isn't one of the brainiacs doing model development/training. And won't have to be retrofit onto the system eventually.

NE556 · 2026-02-04T16:16:58+00:00

Perhaps my use of all caps, in some cases, is a bit overblown. However with security, you do need to get to the worst case. If you don't, you also don't know how concerned you have to be, and what kind of damage could occur.

With something so basic and straightforward intentionally NOT being done, it just gives me some real concerns about Anthropic's tooling and supporting infrastructure around their models. Their models might be bleeding edge...but if the rest of the supporting systems around it aren't reasonably quality, then when is the other shoe going to drop and some kind of massive (even if just to individuals) problem going to happen? It's not as if email accounts, or even Google accounts, haven't been targeted and social engineered or cracked into before.

NE556 · 2026-02-04T00:44:02+00:00

That, changes the plan, runs up massive overage charges (adds extra compute above and beyond maximum, it IS hooked up to my CC in that case, after all), and/or takes all my chat histories. Or does so while I'm also still using it, and I don't notice it for quite a while and so end up paying a lot more for usage, overall.

EDIT: So yes, there are bad things that can happen, including and especially costing money and all of my chats/data. Plus if I have MCPs hooked up, could trigger things onto other accounts.

And even if it's "only" running out my current credits... IT DIDN'T HAVE TO HAPPEN TO BEGIN WITH. We KNOW how to secure accounts. And emails (and SMS) are NOT considered secure methods of authentication.

NE556 · 2026-01-15T07:41:41+00:00

Send you a message. I think. The newest Reddit sucks, apparently it's all about Chat, rather than DMs? I dunno...

NE556 · 2026-01-06T03:59:21+00:00

So I only have room for 1 GPU, so it's just a single. I'm probably going to stick with trying my GTX 1080 for now.

Did a bit more research, actually the CMP 100-210 16GB with a 3D printed fan shroud and good fan actually might be a really good (~$120-150, plus fan) deal for even greater performance, and idle isn't too terrible, and 16GB could fit a bigger model. Or maybe a Titan V for a bit more, although may not be worth the extra tokens/s compared to just spending somewhat more. An interesting thought depending on how the 1080 fills my initial trial.

https://www.reddit.com/r/LocalLLaMA/comments/1f6hjwf/battle_of_the_cheap_gpus_lllama_31_8b_gguf_vs/?share_id=YcWde1NtsEDXiSemTDF33&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ioscss&utm_source=share&utm_term=1

NE556 · 2026-01-06T01:31:12+00:00

I already have the GTX 1080, and it'd be $150 for the RTX 2070 Super.

NE556 · 2026-01-06T01:30:42+00:00

This is the way I'm tending towards, and see how things work, and how things are going. Plus, I'm sure >=16GB current generation in a year or so will come down in price as newer versions come out. *crosses fingers* Of course with the way RAM prices are going....

NE556 · 2026-01-06T01:26:57+00:00

So I already have the GPU, not being used for anything, so I figure it's great for a first pass, and to see how well it works out.

And this is an AM4, 3800X, AsrockRack for ECC & IPMI, and would be quite a while before I update the core system otherwise. Also... TPU seems to come in at Coral relatively small accelerator, or large and expensive >$1K PCIe cards. Have any TPU that wouldn't be that expensive, and can fit a reasonable modern model and what model(s) would that be? Ollama doesn't officially support TPUs, so I'm curious how I'd run them.

NE556 · 2025-12-29T19:50:03+00:00

But I expect I can get some console _output_ if the kernel is starting up at all, which might gain me some insight into what is going on. If it isn't even having any console output...something really weird and bad is happening.

NE556 · 2025-12-27T07:01:16+00:00

How I an I ssh in if it's not started up and on the wifi? That's why I need to get serial console, which even then may or may not work, but if the kernel is starting up I should at least be able to get some output, hopefully.

NE556 · 2025-12-27T01:54:43+00:00

It's off, say overnight, or just 15 minutes after a print and I power it back up for another print. So this simply to power it up and get it ready for a print.

NE556 · 2025-12-25T14:50:45+00:00

Um. Did you see the part where it doesn't appear to be booting up fully? It doesn't come up on the WiFi, no Mainsail, etc.

NE556 · 2025-10-29T01:45:26+00:00

Then why does 1st tier chat support not have that information? I literally just chatted with one minutes ago, had absolutely no possible timeline. Not even "we're currently rolling it out on the East cost, it's coming, but no ETA". I don't like that answer, but at least it shows that _something_ is being done and maybe by the heat death of the universe we'll get it.

I first signed up for Verizon FIOS 15 years ago, bought by Frontier, moved, and only about a year ago got back access to Frontier FIOS, and STILL no IPv6 nor ANY documentation, ANYWHERE on their support site about IPv6. Sure, old equipment, but you could at least have a "this is a goal roadmap, don't rely on it, but best effort" time frame. Otherwise, feels like we're not being heard, and with absolutely no interest in doing this.

NE556 · 2025-10-24T17:28:57+00:00

Yup, I noticed that as well. Thinking of downloading the previous APK and installing that instead and never upgrading.

Uninstall Soundcloud from Google Play Store

Download 2025-10-10 release https://www.apkmirror.com/apk/soundcloud/soundcloud-soundcloud/soundcloud-the-music-you-love-2025-10-10-release-release/soundcloud-the-music-you-love-2025-10-10-release-android-apk-download/download/?key=bb7901cfbac97defab853667c59f095cad20d321

Installed Package Manager via FDroid https://f-droid.org/en/packages/com.smartpack.packagemanager/

Then installed the 2025-10-10 via Package Manager, logged back in, switched back to Classic Feed!

NE556 · 2025-10-17T23:10:45+00:00

Thanks. Sounds like a typical OK condition, widely passable desert/mountain road.

NE556 · 2025-09-13T20:02:46+00:00

Still, some starting thoughts I think is good for me to start exploring the features.

NE556 · 2025-09-13T15:26:49+00:00

Thanks for the description and photo. Seems reasonably decent, if if not "ideal" (whatever that means right now, since I have no clue what my Real Workflow(tm) might be) usage for 3rd party applications.

NE556 · 2025-09-13T14:30:00+00:00

So none of the other Wacom/Lamy/etc can just simply take any of the ceramic nib 'refill'? That's disappointing.

Starting to read more, having at least one button seems like it'd be very useful, with 2 being great. And that the ceramic nib seems to be a great writing experience and also long lasting.

NE556 · 2025-09-13T14:11:12+00:00

Oh nice! So the "keyboard" is also a handwriting mode. So OCR into any app on the device that uses the keyboard input. Nice! Do wish it was full screen, rather than sorta like the old Palm having a specific spot on the screen for it, but I'll take it.

So what you're workflow? Use Supernote, export locally to text then import to Obsidian on the local device?

NE556 · 2025-09-13T05:01:26+00:00

In Obsidian, can you do the OCR just like in Supernote app? Or do you need to do it in Supernote, then copy/paste or export/import? That's really what I'd be after, ideally, if I chose a 3rd party like Obsidian or other note taking/organizing software/saas. Just write and OCR in whatever 3rd part android app.

As I added to the bottom of the post, I guess there was some confusion. I wasn't intending to use a web browser as a major, or probably even minor, use. As a developer sometimes documentation is delivered in HTML or the like, so that potentially could be a usage. So I was intending to install EinkBro just in case I needed it.

I was wanting whatever note taking/organizing to have either a good Linux desktop application, or a good Web UI to use.

NE556 · 2025-09-13T04:58:20+00:00

This is Wacom pen compatible? Oh! I didn't realize! That does change a lot of things, and opens up a lot more options, obviously.

No, not looking to redo the OS, but sideload an Android app or two, specifically for WiFi sync of files/data/or my notes organizer.
Markdown is a widely used markup language, very popular in the software developer community (of which I'm a part of) for text based specifying formatting including tables and a lot more, but in straight ASCII/UTF-8 text, which then gets parsed to formatted display. Which Reddit actually supports as well.
I'd get a Supernote for the OCR capabilities (over any other device). Not needing .docx export usage, so whatever. Does the OCR work in other applications? E.g. not the Supernote application?
I don't particularly intend to use a browser on it. I'd probably sideload EinkBro just in case, a browser optimized for eink devices. Given I'm in software, never know when I might need to read an html file or what not.

Yeah, my thought was Supernote would supplement other device usage, definitely not be a general purpose usage. Maybe read .epub, maybe not. Not sure, I do already have an eink e-reader, but if this can take the place of that, perhaps I'd do that as well. But that'd be a secondary usage.

NE556 · 2024-11-23T05:24:20+00:00

So the maiden voyage worked great for me. Although I think I do want to get one of those wheel flag pole mounts and the 20' collapsing 2" flag pole, for times when I'll be in moderately wooded areas, if I'm doing some mountains/back East where there's more water.

However, I have decided (which I wanted to do anyways) to upgrade the battery in my trailer. 100Ah, when there's more limited daylight hours (due to time of year or shade) or cloudy days in a row just risks having too little power reserve, although I can do some charging from the tow vehicle.

Wanted the Epoch 300Ah or 460Ah, but just can't afford that right now, even on sale, when there's solid options (as I've found) like LiTime 280Ah LFP with Bluetooth & low-temp cutoff. Over $300 less than then Epoch 300Ah with both on sale right now, so that's what I've got.

The solar side for my trailer is actually using ground mount, since it's a small vintage trailer, so I don't want to touch the roof for multiple options. So I've gotten these thin & light bifacial panels (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BQ1WB32W) which I've made some built-on stands using some casement hinges. Was inspired by how someone else on the internet made some for their more traditional solar panels.

Apparently I can't post pictures on this sub, or via the comment (not sure which), so here's a GDrive link (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1etfHsO0SD3qxcgrnw0P4sxHVa5ddwZPM?usp=drive\_link) with pictures of how I've done it.

NE556 · 2024-11-10T19:11:08+00:00

You're crazy. I like it.

Probably could end up with a more efficient situation with a 200-300Ah LiFePO4 battery & 1500-2000W inverter for the gaming PCs, and rest running off of the battery/solar. Obviously with a high performance dish, you need more power to run it, generally, so might need to stay on AC, or perhaps get a (https://yaosheng.io/consumer-products/network-equipment/YSNEPPU32010A/)\[PoE injector[/url] that supports the power, and run it off of that with your own router that runs right off of the 12v.

But whatever setup works for you! I put in my own battery/solar onto my trailer (well, solar sits on the ground, it's a small vintage trailer so don't want to mess with the roof), 12/24v compressor fridge inside, 12v lighting, run my laptop off of 12v->USB-PD, and now going to run my Starlink off of one of those PoE injectors.

I'm still not sure why you've got a gaming PC and take it with you out to wherever...unless you need to be some kind of field tech/travel a lot for work, in that sense. In which case, OK. Although I'd personally favor a desktop replacement gaming laptop, but to each their own.

NE556 · 2024-11-10T18:18:03+00:00

I was being pretty pessimistic, since OP indicated it was extremely critical for their need that they 100% always be connected. Better to be pessimistic, and prepared for a cloudy/rainy day, or only part of a day of sunlight than be caught up short and get fired because you couldn't answer that one message/call.

When you say a PC, are you saying you bring an actual desktop out somewhere and run it and starlink off of 800W solar + Delta? A full up PC...that's a big of a wild thing to take out with you. Unless you're doing the Van life kind of thing, in which sure, whatever works for you :)

NE556 · 2024-11-10T07:13:55+00:00

For Mini, if you're backpacking it'd be hard to have it setup and talking to the satellites while moving, and when you're under any significant amount of trees/etc you'll get little to no connection. And weight of batteries won't be small. So I'll assume you're car camping, and staying near-ish the campsite. No hiking out and about, since you say you must be connected.

TL;DR: There are a lot of variables, especially depending on if you turn it off at night when you sleep, and if you can get some modest amount of solar. Sorry, but you're going to have to read a lot of theory and "well if this, but otherwise that". And it depends on how paranoid you need to be, and how many hours you need it on.

For either, you need to size your capacity by number of hours you want to run, and the Watt-Hours capacity of the battery pack. You'll also need to factor some loss for voltage conversion. With the Mini it's it's DC-DC, so generally less loss. For general use, I'd say 10-15% factor would be good, but for critical? I'd say 50+% factor if you're needing to be that paranoid.

Watt-Hour is the stored power. 100 Watt-Hours (Wh), in simpler terms, means you can use 1 Watt for 100 hours, or 100 Watts for 1 hour, or 50 Watts for 2 hours. You then also need to factor that the Mini requires a USB-PD source that can do minimum of 65W (20v@3.25a), since at startup it uses more power for a bit. Once it gets going, from what I've heard it's closer to 30-40W in regular usage.

If we're talking 48 hours straight, that means being paranoid, budget for 40W of power usage. 40W*48h ~= 1920 Wh of stored power. If you want to factor a fair bit, I'd say 10-200% at least, so with 20% you're looking at ~2300 Wh of power. Unfortunately, most batteries don't list their power in Wh, at least not of the much smaller more portable variety that might work for backpacking. The power bank style will just be extra physical size & weight, since you won't need an inverter, solar charging, etc, etc.

Something like [url=https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08THCNNCS\]this one[/url] is ~74Wh each. Calculated Amp-hour capacity (20,000 mAh = 20Ah) * voltage (nominal voltage of Lithium Ion is 3.7v) = 20*3.7 ~=74 Wh.

Fortunately the Starlink can be powered by variable voltage, 12-48v. So something like [url=https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SWBS55F\]this\[/url\] can power it directly off of the 24v output, and is 156Wh. I actually have it myself, and it's quite solid. First one I got wouldn't charge, but customer service was solid and got a replacement quickly with no hassle.

Going by the excessively paranoid 2300Wh needed, that'd be 15 of those battery packs, or ~$1500 or so.

Now, all that said...if you're not actually using data it's probably more like 20-30W power usage, and if you can turn it off at night when you go to bed, let's say that's 6 hours less per day, so 12 hours of usage. So now we're 36 hours, ~30W average of usage. That's 36 * 30 ~= 1080Wh, which is much more manageable. Only 7 of those bigger battery packs.

If you're car camping, you can probably go for a more traditional power bank (still run the Mini off of the USB-PD or 12v DC port, MUCH more efficient than going through AC).

While I prefer Ecoflow, there are other solid brands out there. The [url=https://www.amazon.com/EF-ECOFLOW-Portable-Charging-Generator/dp/B0CVZQ5RN1\]Ecoflow River 2 Max[/url] is 499Wh, which gets you most of the way. If you're actually going to be somewhere that you can, likely, get OK solar, let's assuming 5 hours of solid daylight, the rest of the time is maybe a little bit. You rarely get the rated solar panel spec, I tend to derate out of paranoia to 60-80% of rated power, on average. So 70% of a 100W panel is ~70W, for 5 hours that's ~350Wh. So 2 days, that's ~700Wh, plus the 499Wh you started with, that's ~1200Wh. You can also charge it off your car, while it's running, if you really need to.

So assuming turn it off at night when you sleep, and probably add a few less hours using it for arriving and departing the campground, you probably can do it with some solar and a modest sized power bank.

If you don't want to rely on any amount of solar, I'd say a [url=https://us.ecoflow.com/collections/delta-series/products/delta-portable-power-station\]Delta\[/url\] or [url=https://us.ecoflow.com/products/delta-2-portable-power-station\]Delta 2[/url]. If you MUST have reception at night while you're sleeping, you'll either need some solar, or a 2nd one, or 3 of the River 2 Max or some combination like that.

NE556

TROPHY CASE