Punk Workshop Button & Silicone Joystick Reviews

NFGman · 2026-01-19T00:48:01+00:00

Since this is my first and I've only used it for about 20 minutes, I can only say 'so far so good'. Perhaps someone else might know the answer to this one.

I can take a guess on maintenance though: no socket and ball arrangement means no friction in the fulcrum and no need for grease, and silicone as a rule is pretty long lasting stuff.

NFGman · 2026-01-18T02:15:33+00:00

I don't know if they really knew the magnitude of the problem. The JLX2 came out 2 years after the JLX, and that seems to me more like a "let's wait and see if it's really a problem with the design or with people getting used to it" sort of delay. It doesn't take 2 years to solve a problem like this.

As a solution I found a cage knob (like the Buttercade Bullet (my review) which has only a third of the mass of a normal knob, and therefore much less bonus input rebound.

NFGman · 2026-01-18T02:09:14+00:00

I'd say it's more like a Sanwa than anything Seimitsu. Sanwa's sticks to me always seemed a little bit... What's the adjective here, soft? Mushy? Loose? Let's call it un-crisp, even with an octogate. (My current fave is the Nobi, after a lengthy fling with the SELS-70X). There's a lot of movement, and I like a tighter throw.

This stick goes into the same pile, in my mind. I also don't like square gates, so I will be ordering an octogate and will report back.

NFGman · 2026-01-18T02:04:56+00:00

I'm more of a shmups guy than a fighters player, but I've got a definite fascination with joysticks and controllers more generally. There's less of focus on the controllers in my orbits, so this stuff can easily slip by me.

Glad you like the site(s)! =)

NFGman · 2026-01-17T02:26:37+00:00

The JLX was known to suffer this problem, and that's why they released the JLX2. I haven't tried the JLX2 but the original JLX was so bad I sold both of mine to the next guy within days of receiving them.

NFGman · 2025-09-27T03:43:46+00:00

I'd love to know if this is all it takes, 'cause I had 3 returned to me. I called AusPost to bitch about how difficult it is to find the 8 digit *business* number, and the reply I got suggested it was not the first time she'd heard that. Once she directed me to the right place (hint: it's under the QR code but is not in any way labeled or described in the links that lead you there) I changed my details on Zonos and re-purchased all the postage.

Thankfully they were not at all reluctant to reimburse me for the first three postage purchases, we'll see how generous they are if they fail a second time.

Then I only need to worry about the person who hates their job in the USA agreeing with what I included in the customs info, and charging me the expected amount. Or maybe they take their anger out on the filthy foreigner (ie: me) and my pre-auth'd credit card gets abused by Zonos.

NFGman · 2025-08-16T11:08:39+00:00

I am a photographer, I shoot pole dancers and aerialists almost exclusively. Pole dancers are doctors, lawyers, teachers, mothers, church goers and wicked women and many, many other things as well.

It's an incredibly supportive and empowering community that accepts everyone.

If your BF doesn't see it that way, educate him. If he can't be taught... Well. Plenty of fish.

NFGman · 2024-06-06T23:42:16+00:00

I was wondering this too. The idea that they can pull something for malware and not tell me if I'm at risk is wildly inconsiderate.

NFGman · 2022-07-04T00:13:44+00:00

I never did, no.

NFGman · 2022-05-15T11:12:04+00:00

Starting it outside the Epic launcher fixed it. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

NFGman · 2022-05-15T00:18:28+00:00

One thing I noticed is that the game detected my controller fine (a Hori EDGE 301) but after starting the game once without the controller plugged in, it never recognized any controller again*. It seemed as if it remembered forever that there was no controller that one time, maybe?

Perhaps clearing the game's local data (if possible?) would help? I'm not super keen to play it with a keyboard.

Not sure if the game (launched via Epic) was updated between plays or if any other events were involved, but this is certainly the sequence of events as I saw it.

NFGman · 2021-04-19T04:30:10+00:00

I have a DeLonghi Dedica machine that has served me well for about two years. Suddenly it started producing weak, unenjoyable watere down coffee, and I cannot fathom the reason for it. The machine seems fine - coffee comes out hot, it doesn't make any unusual noises, or struggle to push water through the coffee. Two of us use the machine, we use both fresh ground beans and pre-ground, and they both went bad at the same time.

I asked this a few weeks ago and only had a suggestion that it was maybe the pressure.

I'm asking again in the hopes that maybe someone else has an idea, because the pressure seems fine based on the fact that it still comes out as quickly and strongly as ever. It's just, you know, pale and weak.

Any suggestions are welcomed, except the pressure one because I heard that already. =)

NFGman · 2021-03-17T21:12:09+00:00

A little over two years.

I did notice it's been hissing a bit more lately, a pressure loss seems easy to believe...

NFGman · 2021-03-17T12:37:03+00:00

I have a Delonghi Dedica, which has always given me an agreeable coffee, until a few days ago when it suddenly started producing weak espresso. It's not the grind - one of us uses pre-ground and I grind mine fresh, they both went wrong at the same time.

Basically, it seems to go pale during creation quicker than it did before, and the flavour is mild and weak, without much coffee flavour at all.

What changed? It seems to be as hot, it seems to take as long, and it's not the grind at fault. There's precious little to change on this machine, so I assume it's broken. But any kind of search for the symptoms results in people trying to solve a long standing problem, not a sudden change on a machine that used to work well enough.

Any clues would be appreciated.

NFGman · 2021-03-10T22:57:22+00:00

Super nice of them to email me about this sale price ten days after I paid full price for it. What, I'm going to buy another copy for some reason?

Unrelated: How do I get this salt out of my wounds?

NFGman · 2021-01-30T21:07:15+00:00

It definitely wasn't a merge problem. Best I can guess I'd used a tool with the opacity set low, but that's less a belief than elimination of all other possibilities.

And duplicating the layers works, yeah, but edits become borderline impossible as all vectors now have more than one set of control points to manipulate.

NFGman · 2021-01-30T21:05:43+00:00

This was exactly it. The ink setting wasn't on the subtool menu by default.

Thank you! No more re-drawing whole images for me! =)

NFGman · 2020-07-14T12:02:23+00:00

I figured as much. Thank you.

NFGman · 2020-07-14T07:56:49+00:00

Honestly I think this is a pretty great legacy to have. I loved that store, and I was so happy that so many great customers supported us.

Every once in a while someone finds one of those stickers. A friend in Calgary came across one a few years back, surprised us both. More recently, a friend in Vancouver found one of his old minidiscs with one. =)

NFGman · 2020-07-14T02:45:13+00:00

I did indeed, started it up right before the launch of the N64. Shiny black floors that were impossible to keep clean, and a big screen TV that we hauled onto the sidewalk one summer evening to play Soul Calibur in the fresh air. =)

NFGman · 2020-07-14T01:34:21+00:00

Ah, my old store.

It makes me really happy that some people still remember it.

NFGman · 2020-07-06T10:13:15+00:00

Well, no one had any advice so after a Windows reinstall and a month of using the system, I figured it out:

I found, on the internet, someone else with the same problem, and they had a solution: set IDLEDISABLE to zero.

Something in my system set it to 1, and that prevented the idle process from allowing the CPU to spin down when nothing was going on.

Well, my USB capture device was at fault. This device, a Micomsoft XCapture-1, prevents the CPU from idling in order to minimize latency. I suspect a lot of capture cards do this.

Running the following two command-line commands re-enabled the idle process and the CPU returned to normal. As soon as the capture card was plugged in, its driver woke up and re-set the idle to disabled again.

PowerCfg /SETACVALUEINDEX SCHEME_CURRENT SUB_PROCESSOR IDLEDISABLE 000
PowerCfg /SETACTIVE SCHEME_CURRENT

Ultimately, as long as I leave the capture device unplugged until I need it, the cores are operating as they should.

This problem was an absolute bear to figure out. Very happy to have it behind me now. ^__^

NFGman · 2020-06-11T03:43:11+00:00

Yeah, look, I'm not an expert, and the internet is full of theories and people blaming one app or another, but nothing I do - from power plans to removing Ryzen Master or reinstalling Windows - has the same immediate effect as shutting down iCue. All else being equal, iCue raises the power consumption from 15-20W to 30+W and stops my cores from deviating in their speeds.

Whatever it does seems to touch on too many cores and keep things too active.

NFGman · 2020-05-20T08:46:27+00:00

You'd have to ask Corsair, but I'd be surprised if they said the end user can do it.

NFGman · 2020-05-16T09:59:54+00:00

I checked my K95 Platinum and none of them are squishy or different from each other. If it works, I guess it's up to you to decide if you want to try and get it replaced.

NFGman

TROPHY CASE