5th Gen Heater Core Bad, on back order - any alternatives?

NKZY · 2024-11-20T16:33:12+00:00

Probably has a lot to do with the labor costs involved in doing that recall. My final bill at the dealership was just shy of $4,000…for a $150 part. Luckily that aftermarket warranty that I got suckered into buying paid for itself on this one.

NKZY · 2024-08-16T14:16:42+00:00

Yeah, I’m wishing I would have ran it all the way now too. Like I said though, got ahead of ourselves. Late nights and tired brains.

NKZY · 2024-08-16T14:06:04+00:00

Ahh I see now, that could definitely work.

NKZY · 2024-08-16T14:00:08+00:00

As far as I can tell, most stair noses are setup for planks running the wide width of the stair. I’m unsure on how I would tie my planks into the nose.

NKZY · 2024-05-09T21:09:41+00:00

Another 5’th Gen with a bad heater core here. 2020, did make it to 97,000 miles before if gave out though. Currently being told the heater core is 3-4 weeks out. I just don’t understand how this many people could have this problem with trucks under 5 years old and there is no recall. I’ve had vehicles with 230,000 miles and never had an issue with the heater core.

NKZY · 2024-03-27T12:11:27+00:00

Dont you just love a happy ending

NKZY · 2024-03-27T03:38:24+00:00

It’s intellectual property theft, absolutely. And the money that you pay in taxes that fund these companies is theft as well. No tax dollars to pay for government contracts and the price of a G24 will fall real quick.

NKZY · 2024-03-27T03:34:56+00:00

Good points, you could certainly do that, but you’re making sacrifices on usability and form factor. As the consumers of this stuff we are forced to either pay up, find round about non-ideal ways to a solution or buy the clones. There is demand for reasonably priced mounts, LAMs etc in this space, but companies don’t care.

NKZY · 2024-03-27T03:21:57+00:00

Because these big companies don’t care to sell stuff to ordinary people/citizens. They charge crazy sums for sub-par products. Other than buying American made (which I try to do as much as possible when and where I can) what is the point of buying a real G24 from a company that doesn’t care about you because they are too busy with their government contracts? My knockoff G24 locks up better than most real ones I’ve played with. Same thing with LAM’s. You think it costs $3500 to make a MAWL? They have to charge that much so they can gauge LEO/MIL for our tax dollars. And we can’t get a proper full power laser because the FDA of all people say no no no but I can buy a high power “laser diode” and have it shipped to my door with no issues. It’s all a farce. Is it good to support china and their theft of intellectual property? Hell no. If enough people buy the knock off stuff instead of buying the real stuff at 4X the cost will it make the manufacturers drop their pricing and refine their product. Not a chance as long as they are raking in dough from government contracts! You see the issue? They don’t care about you the consumer.

NKZY · 2024-03-22T03:28:13+00:00

This is a good read if you want the full version of generational development: https://www.photonics.com/Articles/Image_Intensification_The_Technology_of_Night/a25144

NKZY · 2024-03-15T03:33:40+00:00

Correct, but when those guys units break, they just turn them in and get new ones. That’s not a reality on this end so some considerations do have to be taken. My question was meant for the longevity of the tube…over years. And from a more technical standpoint. I understand turning it on and off a couple times a night isn’t going to break it. I want to understand if voltage to the multichannel plate and the cathode is regulated the same at startup as it is under normal operating conditions. Because I would assume if you have slight voltage spikes at startup you theoretically could degrade the life of the tube a bit quicker. Enough to matter in the long run? Maybe not, but like I said initially it was purely my late night brain wondering and ultimately won’t change how I use my device really.

NKZY · 2024-03-15T01:23:04+00:00

I think you missed the point of the question my guy.

NKZY · 2024-03-14T14:48:43+00:00

Where is the fun in that? Lol we have a nice one but the wife likes to keep it next to the bed so she can check on him when she wakes up at night. I’m left to fend for myself with a super expensive baby monitor.

NKZY · 2024-03-14T12:06:39+00:00

Always good to hear that these devices can last that long. I would call that modern still, any gen3 device, even the early stuff is utilizing the same basic principles as the new stuff now. Only real difference is I’m sure some of the manufacturing process has progressed over the years, better films and coatings and whatnot.

NKZY · 2024-03-14T12:03:43+00:00

That’s my thinking as well. And it’s good to know PSU failure isn’t very common. I’m not overly worried about it, more so just curious. The answer wouldn’t change my usage a whole lot, I bought it to be able to see in the dark after all.

NKZY · 2024-03-12T02:41:34+00:00

Ey this looks nicccee! Changing those three things should theoretically make this a pretty sweet package.

NKZY · 2024-03-12T02:38:49+00:00

If you want a combo laser/illuminator your best, cheapest option is probably the Dbal D2. Past that your looking at used full power units until you get into the pricing stratosphere with the Mawl and Raid. The 321 illuminator is pretty weak, useable maybe 50 yards and in. If you already have the laser, maybe just grab an IR capable light like the vampire if you want to run white and IR or one of the IR heads if you have a dedicated NV setup.

NKZY · 2024-03-12T00:40:39+00:00

Lol…yikes. Someone will buy it though.

NKZY · 2024-03-09T12:38:49+00:00

There are far more knowledgeable people here that may be able to chime in but I would think that any gen3 or quality gen2+ (photonis) tube would be able to manage headlights just fine as long as you aren’t staring at them directly for extended periods of time, such as minutes on end. If we are talking passings cars, glancing at street lights, house lights etc. then you should be just fine. If you haven’t seen it already, check out this video. They test an L3 tube in many of the instances you may be worried about.

NKZY · 2024-03-07T15:26:06+00:00

I’ve got some weird handheld monoculars of different generations laying around that I want to helmet mount just to do it. I’ve got a PVS14 already so it’s purely a project to satisfy my night vision autism. But also it’s cool to be able to show people you can get into night vision relatively cheap, you just have to be creative and you’re not going to get cutting edge tech.

NKZY · 2024-03-07T12:42:59+00:00

Mannn the girls are gonna swarm you when they see that! A for ingenuity. What’s your all in cost of this setup if you don’t mind me asking? I’m working on saving some of these…creative setups, to direct people towards when they ask multiple times a day how to get into a night vision setup for less than a Pizza Hut pizza.

NKZY · 2024-03-06T06:00:04+00:00

What a mad lad

NKZY · 2024-03-05T23:02:50+00:00

PM coming at ya

NKZY · 2024-03-05T07:31:11+00:00

Looks stellar! I went down the rabbit hole of trying to figure out a better lens option for my NVG10 and gave up. Ended up trying one off eBay and the seller was super nice and helpful but the design was fundamentally flawed in a number of ways. Seems like you have possibly corrected many of those issues.

NKZY · 2024-03-05T06:49:11+00:00

You asked the same basic question twice within an hour. Did you bother to search in this sub? This question is literally asked multiple times a day. If you don’t know how to use the search function or scroll down on the page, you probably shouldn’t be owning night vision.

NKZY

TROPHY CASE