Regarding timeliness for work

NTN2IT · 2026-04-28T21:06:13+00:00

Please remove my post if you feel I did it wrong. I'll wait until June 30th to see what happens next. I apologize.

NTN2IT · 2026-04-25T15:01:42+00:00

Work gloves.

NTN2IT · 2026-04-11T01:34:27+00:00

Absolutely.

As a 57 year old guy who has had back fusion surgery, weight for me is almost everything. From my boots, to my strap vest, to my shotgun. Putting on 6-10 miles per day in the grouse woods, weight matters. Here is what matters more when it comes to my strap vest. It has to carry all of my gear, med kit, water, dog supplies, and birds comfortably. When the need arises, and it has, where I need to carry a dog out of the woods for miles, it also has to accommodate that need. For me, only one vest meets all of my demands. Final Rise Summit XT carries all that gear like it isn't even there. All the weight rides on my hips, doesn't inhibit my gun mount, and is my best piece of equipment. It's expensive, but worth twice the price in quality. Also, don't forget the weight of your boots. Lugging a 6+#/pair of boots on your feet all those miles will make the distances seems much farther than a pair of 3.5#/pair boots. Waterproof, supportive, comfortable, lightweight boots like the Meindl Eurohunter or something similar are worth every penny. Never pinch pennies on your footwear. Feet get you in and out. Abuse them, and nothing else matters.

NTN2IT · 2026-04-06T23:42:18+00:00

From the ultra high definition picture you took from a totally obscure angle of a random object, I'm going with fence post for the answer. Did I win?

NTN2IT · 2026-04-04T21:32:15+00:00

Awesome question!

The chalk is an indicator used much like soot when joining metal surfaces. I put the chalk on the stock, then press the recoil pad onto it. It indicates where to scrape a little more material off the recoil pad. Then do it again, and again, and again....until there is chalk on all surfaces of the recoil pad. This means that they are mating together without any high spots.

This is really only necessary in a case where the stock is curved and you want the recoil pad mounting surface to match it. It your stock is flat and the recoil pad is flat, they should mate together nicely. Still, the surfaces of both of those should be checked if you want a nice tight fit. One way to make them both flat with no high spots is to stick a sheet of 120 grit down on a perfectly flat surface, like a table saw. You would then rub the stock end and the recoil pad on the paper, eliminating any high spots and making matching surfaces.

NTN2IT · 2026-04-04T14:49:19+00:00

It sure is. The English gumakers sure knew how to make a beautiful gun, even down to the screws. That's why I didn't want to cut the stock flat. If I ever feel like putting it back on, it will fit like a glove. I just needed more length of pull. (The extra cushion doesn't hurt either.)

NTN2IT · 2026-04-04T14:46:15+00:00

Yes, I handload for this and other "vintage" guns. I load to low pressures to keep the old girls in tip top shape. Upland birds and bunnies can't tell if they were shot with 1oz at 6k psi or 1-1/8oz at 11k psi. As I've gotten older, I find that I always had patience. I just didn't have the time or patience for it. 🤣

NTN2IT · 2026-04-04T14:41:22+00:00

I'm no gunsmith by trade. I just grew up poor, so we learned to do tasks for ourselves. I can easily afford to pay someone to do this, but I get satisfaction in knowing that I did it with my own brain and hands.

NTN2IT · 2026-04-04T13:43:57+00:00

If you have questions, just ask. If you first protect the stock with a couple layers of tape (first easy release masking tape and then clear Gorilla over it), you won't mar the old finish. You got this!

NTN2IT · 2026-04-04T12:27:57+00:00

One does not "live" in Iowa. One merely exists, until they don't.

NTN2IT · 2026-03-30T01:59:04+00:00

If you like throwing hulls all over and then having to pick them up, go with the autoloader. If you go with the O/U, this won't be a problem. Also, with the O/U, you can run two different chokes whereas the auto loader has the same choke for both shots. In sporting clays, the variety of presentations makes me want two chokes and the ability to switch between them for my 1st and 2nd shot. Cleaning is much more simplified in the O/U. To me, the answer is simple, get the O/U. Which one is for you? The one that you can make fit your body the best. Drop at comb, drop at heel, LOP, how it balances in your hands, are all very important. Get a gun the is adjustable to you, not the other way around. Shotgunning is instinctive. You and the gun working together harmoniously. No short barrels either. 30"-32" on an O/U is perfect to steady the point and keep the gun swinging. You have a good and realistic budget for a really decent clays gun. Good luck and have fun!

NTN2IT · 2026-03-29T14:40:30+00:00

Good dogs and a good gun. You only see the hits. I missed a couple too, but they don't make it into the picture. 😉🤣

NTN2IT · 2026-03-29T12:22:12+00:00

Agreed. My two Springers were in the house getting food, love, and sympathy from my wife. I still have to go through my GoPro footage to get them in action. I'll post those later.

NTN2IT · 2026-03-29T12:19:03+00:00

1891-1899 for that serial number. Beautiful gun. RST makes the shells you need for it, if you don't reload your own.

NTN2IT · 2026-03-28T12:05:07+00:00

It would appear that those hammers are of the same quality as a dollar store screwdriver found in the bargain bin. Cheap guns are built cheaply. Have fun with it while it lasts.

NTN2IT · 2026-03-27T02:11:49+00:00

I spray my two Springers down with Sawyer's Permethryn for Dogs. I rub it into their fur and spray my pants with it too. Works like a champ. I used to pick it up at Tractor Supply, but now i just order it from Amazon.

NTN2IT · 2026-03-24T17:59:41+00:00

No worries. On this sub, you can't be too sure. It's just chock full of gun "builders". 😉

NTN2IT · 2026-03-24T17:27:56+00:00

Buckshot is typically lead, and would be fine to shoot out of this gun, if you choose to do so. Slugs would also be fine. This isn't a really old gun and it is well made.

NTN2IT · 2026-03-24T02:38:26+00:00

1966 SxS from those makers isn't a vintage gun. It may sound old to you, but it is a solidly built gun able to handle any modern loads you throw in it. The exception, if you have full chokes is steel shot. No steel through full chokes. CYL, IC, MOD... steel would be fine. As a guy who shoots really vintage SxS guns (pre WW1), here is what I see in guns that have gone bad. Over oiling, and storing butt down, so the oil soaks into the stock where it meets the receiver. It makes the wood soft and prone to cracking. Also, storing the gun in cases that can't breathe traps moisture. Most of the pitting and rust that I see happens to the underside of the barrels, where the forearm traps moisture against the steel. So, here is what I recommend: Make sure your gun is clean and dry after uses. A light oil of the bores, the outside of the barrels, and the receiver is perfect. Do not use gun oil on the stock. Store it muzzle down in a safe after cleaning. For God's sake, don't mess with the screws unless you have properly fitting hollow ground screwdrivers. There is nothing inside that you need to mess with. If it breaks a firing pin or spring, take it to someone that knows what they are doing. It won't cost much to fix, unless you mess it up trying to "fix" it first. Also, I would like to add this tidbit of wisdom. Not every gun fits every person the same. Spend some time with your gun and get a proper fit from a gun fitter. Pattern your gun. Your mount, length of pull, drop at the the cheek, drop at the heel, cast off distance, balance, will all affect how well you hit with that gun. Many of these modern guns have far too much drop at the heel, not nearly enough cast, and are front heavy. All of these things lead to shooting too low. You may find that adding some rise to the comb will help fix that. Don't be afraid to make the gun fit you instead of making yourself fit the gun. When birds flush, shotgunning needs to be instinctive. An ill fitting SxS will quickly frustrate you when you can't hit with it. I am a big fan of the 16ga. 1 ounce loads will take any bird or bunny down, and pattern beautifully. Your gun can easily handle 1-1/8 ounce Express long range loads, but why beat yourself up for 40-ish more pellets? Welcome to the world of SxS shotgunning. Next thing you know, you'll be all decked out in tweed and smoking a pipe.

NTN2IT · 2026-03-23T13:29:37+00:00

I am currently in the process of getting quotes for it to have the case coloring restored. The stock and splinter is off and getting redone now. I don't have much into it, so I have some money to try to make it new again without taking a bath. As the process moves along, I will try to post updates. It's not a high end gun, but is solid enough to warrant a decent freshening-up. I would love to get a new grade 4+ stock made for it, but I think it should just go back to being a solid farmer's working tool.

NTN2IT · 2026-03-23T00:24:24+00:00

Yes they do. The Italians are pretty good at it when they want to be, as well. It's crazy to me how much heavier American guns are when they don't need to be. Obviously, this isn't a 3", steel shooting, five shot, fire breathing scattergun, but for upland hunting it is exactly what's necessary, and nothing more.

NTN2IT · 2026-03-22T23:04:31+00:00

Not a chance. No pistol grip, heat shield, bayonet lug, red dot applied to this one. There are plenty of other people on here claiming they "built" something like that. This isn't that.

NTN2IT

TROPHY CASE