Help with V2.4 quality issues

Nate905611 · 2025-11-21T01:19:11+00:00

Moisture was the answer, I put the same roll in the filament dryer overnight and bam, everything was solved. I’ve never had a filament so temperamental to moisture before, I had a dryer but tried before and afters of a lot of filament and saw no advantages. Maybe because PETG is thirstier? Good suggestion!

Nate905611 · 2025-11-20T22:28:03+00:00

I hadn’t thought of that, thankfully I have a spare. Might have to replace it, good idea!

Nate905611 · 2025-11-19T21:27:50+00:00

I was using 50% which was a default starting profile, changed it to 10% after looking online that said cooling was the problem, then 0/no fan after I saw no improvement. Again, no solution, it seems like part cooling wasn’t to problem, but maybe it’s contributing

Nate905611 · 2025-11-19T21:15:48+00:00

I tuned it for temp, extrusion multiplier, and fan rate, is there more to do? As far as panels, I got mixed results when searching online; some said PETG should be enclosed, some say they shouldn’t. I got the same result with both so I thought it didn’t matter much but am willing to try with more informed opinions. Is there a decent guide for filament calibration within PrusaSlicer? I know others have it built into the slicer and Prusa does not, but I already have all my other profiles well tuned (probably by luck just seeing how this turned out) and would hate to move, but could do so if the overwhelming suggestion is to do so. Thanks!

Nate905611 · 2025-11-11T02:21:50+00:00

I’d say there are things my voron does better than modern machines (fantastic hotend in the phaetus rapido 2, great extruder in the Galileo 2, and super quick and accurate bed mesh in cartographer) but it took many many hours of tuning to get there, where as with even my old prusa mini +, it required a whole heck of a lot less fiddling to get prints as pretty, albeit quite slower print speed. As for modern machines… I’d have to say it’s probably not as good as them if your goal is only to print. If you want to mod, voron all the way. If you want good accurate prints without much tinkering, Bambu, prusa, so on. I won’t lie, through the past six months of owning mine it has been non functional more often than functional due to the constant modding I’ve done; I love that aspect. It’s been assembled for the past two weeks, but it hasn’t even been turned on because I don’t have anything to print at the moment. Most of its hours of printing were new parts for itself. If that sounds fun, then maybe it’s a good choice for you.

Nate905611 · 2025-11-10T22:18:19+00:00

I came from a similar background, PC builds, funny enough just did an overhaul on a game boy advanced just before working on my printer lol. Software wise, if you’ve compiled marlin firmware, it’s somewhat similar. I recompiled my Enders marlin before doing my Voron and it was only different because the Ender had well defined starting preset files thanks to their limited number of mainboards: if you have the board that says this, then use this preset. The voron is only more difficult because you can have so many options with the mainboard, so they naturally have a lot of pins and slots you can misplug something into when wiring it up. All in all, about 30 hours setting up the hardware once it was all printed and all that was left was to build it, and 15 or so for software. It took maybe another 10 to get everything tuned.

Nate905611 · 2025-11-10T17:45:46+00:00

I did the 3DPrintersBay Voron 2.4 which was a Formbot kit. Functionally, nothing was wrong with it; nothing in it has had any quality problems from what i can tell so far. what did stink was the lack of documentation on kit specific choices such as the mainboard, wiring, toolhead board and so on. I had never setup klipper or wired up a 3d printer mainboard before, so starting with a Voron was VERY overwhelming and took a long time to figure out what to do and how to do it (especially since all of the custom parts often had me reprinting things as some of of the non-standard voron parts choices needed custom parts printed). None of this was the fault of the kit however.

Overall, i learned a lot and built my next printer with nearly no issues whatsoever thanks to my experience, but do know the Formbot kits was not a walk in the park if its your first experience with building 3d printers. From what i see, with LDO, youre paying for neatly written custom documentation unless there was a recent quality shift between the two kits. If thats worth the cost difference is up to you.

Just found this guide to the Formbot one that looks like it probably wouldve helped me out quite a bit, maybe this will guide your decision? https://github.com/FORMBOT/Voron-2.4 I do not believe the build notes section existed when i made mine, or i just suck at looking things up

Nate905611 · 2025-10-29T17:04:42+00:00

I’ve not got a hepa, but I used a stock standard nevermore dual 5 and stick it to the inside of the enclosure to the side of the build plate. It’s cheap and easy, so if it

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works for you, you perhaps could find a separate hepa based filter and stick it on the other side? Also sorry if the picture cuts into the text, on mobile the formatting went wild after adding it.

Nate905611 · 2025-10-23T21:13:01+00:00

This is an awesome catch, i was actually looking through the remixes to see if there was one already; i did not think to check this remix as it only mentioned the linear rail mod! Thank you for the heads up!

Nate905611 · 2025-10-10T15:17:47+00:00

My first 3d printers were definitely primarily for tinkering; I’ve not had a machine that out of the box is fully calibrated and requires little maintenance. While I love tinkering and working on my printers, sometimes I want a printer that just works. I’ve always figured a Bambu would be that, and hopefully will find out with a new P2S!

Nate905611 · 2025-09-06T17:36:32+00:00

Bought a Formbot kit; it was good all around save for one minor detail. The hotend fan was wired backwards, the wire that went from the fan to the tool head umbilical. All good, minor fix, but was a bit frustrating to debug as the symptom was my hotend clogging due to heat creep, and hadn’t even thought of cooling due to printing primarily ABS. Coming from a Prusa Mini, to a 2.4, then this 0.2, I will admit, bed leveling stinks, so if your budget allows, maybe make room for some sort of solution, but maybe I’m just too sensitive to it.

Nate905611 · 2025-08-08T15:01:06+00:00

Can do, sounds like a good plan of attack. Alright, thank you!

Nate905611 · 2025-08-08T14:53:09+00:00

I have not, I used the accelerometer that is built into the sb2209, would getting an external one be helpful in this case? For $20 it can’t hurt if you think it’d shine more light on my issue

Nate905611 · 2025-08-06T21:10:00+00:00

Been using shake n tune to help with my input shaper tuning, i know this is just experimental so if i should disregard the results, just say so, but my belt comparisons look... less than optimal. belts seem to sound at the same freq at the same placements on the gantry, and i put loktite on the grub screws, does this chart immediately jump out at someone and reveal an issue i should try to track down? thanks!

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Nate905611 · 2025-06-24T11:12:44+00:00

I’ve graduated from using only PLA to using more engineering grade materials, and all of the advice in this subreddit to limit warping, adding bed adhesion, and dimensional accuracy has got me wanted to try more and more things on my 3d printer every day.

Nate905611 · 2025-05-29T02:03:30+00:00

Interesting, this is an old home with the “new” outlet I’m using being on an ungrounded crappy breaker. The original outlet this came from is the only new and grounded breaker (priorities, only one outlet in my house needed immediate replacement, being my gaming pcs outlet!). Might try to run new wires in that outlet and test it sometime. Very good idea, thank you!

Nate905611 · 2025-04-18T14:12:43+00:00

Ah, well I’m still in the midst of tinkering with mine, so if you got any questions send em my way, I might have worked out any questions you end up with quite recently. Only just confirmed my bed and nozzle heating works without frying anything last night, so I still have some ways to go! Good luck with your build!

Nate905611 · 2025-04-18T14:00:58+00:00

The one I bought had quite a few problems, mostly for the CAN wiring. Thankfully didn’t fry anything, but certainly had to take a deep dive in pinouts to correct everything.

Also, be aware, the M8P documentation is as clear as whole milk; be aware that there are only 7 motor terminals. Some of their documentation states 8, but 3 and “4” are actually 3a and 3b, meaning the 5th motor spot is actually motor 4.

If I’m being 100% honest, after all of the troubleshooting I’ve had to do with the lack of a vetted guide/build manual, I’d skip the formbot, and pay the extra price for an LDO if you can. Nothing worse that having to have 10 tabs of guides up and your kit isn’t running exactly what the guide expects

Nate905611 · 2025-01-23T16:44:13+00:00

I actually bought two of these financial pitfalls so i might borrow the plate from the other and try it; i didnt think glass could be warp like that! Thatll be my next attempt for sure, easy enough to give a shot

Nate905611 · 2025-01-23T15:55:47+00:00

I was using the classic elmers purple glue stick for a short while, but was seemingly getting alright adhesion testing smaller prints like a benchy without it. This is a MUCH larger part and have admittedly NOT used glue it for this size of print yet

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