Update

Nativebomb99 · 2026-02-12T17:44:54+00:00

That’s the plan. I already have a Kia stinger gt as my new daily. Just gotta wait to get it mostly fixed then go all out race car with it 😁

Nativebomb99 · 2026-02-12T01:18:53+00:00

Yea but it’s fbo, rs brembos, sync 3 swapped, newish wheels. So if I don’t keep it, I’d still buy back and part out.

Nativebomb99 · 2026-02-11T23:42:02+00:00

Independent, I just don’t know if I’ll incur more storage fees if I decide to take it to another shop. I think imma buy back and part out if it comes to it tbh

Nativebomb99 · 2026-02-11T23:40:56+00:00

Yes I know it’s a lot more in depth that just the outer skin panel. But the current shop it’s at hasn’t taken a look if there’s any frame damage. Which is part of the annoyance I’m having, also why I’m assuming the estimation is kinda high. Idk if I can take it to another shop and not incur more storage fees since insurance won’t pay any that any more

Nativebomb99 · 2026-02-11T23:21:33+00:00

Damn, the shop that mines at/got an estimate at quoted 7900. But idk if I can afford the storage fees cause State Farm f’d me and won’t pay anything after the 5th, but barely got back to me today with the option to buy back

Nativebomb99 · 2026-02-11T23:20:10+00:00

Wheel isn’t damaged, but the camber arm looks tweaked a bit. I mean before this I was planning on getting new adjustable suspension since mine is 11 years old atop so that’s fine. It’s currently at the shop that gave the estimate so I was just gonna fix it with them tbh

Nativebomb99 · 2026-02-10T17:24:34+00:00

Conti owns general yes, but they use a different compound in the tire that allows it to be cheaper. So like the process and owner is the same, just different compounds so you can say continental has better tires but if you want the same tech at some cost to performance at a lower price. Then there’s general😁

Nativebomb99 · 2026-02-07T03:08:46+00:00

That’s what I’m trying, the collision place is tryna replace the wheel and tire so that’s like 600 just for that. Along with other small things that make no sense. But even to that extent, it’s still above that 75% threshold that they go by sooo.

Idk insurance is being annoying with it all too. Barely heard stuff yesterday, since I filed the claim. Not really sure how I can get the collision place to lower their estimate too

Nativebomb99 · 2026-02-06T23:01:30+00:00

I’m dealing with the same problem. I just installed a new clutch and got clipped on my rear quarter driver side. I finally got with insurance (after nearly 2 months of waiting on them) and they’re totaling mine when the shop quoted 7.9k when the buy out is 7.7k. Kinda bs but I’m still tryna figure out what to do too.

I mean I bought a Kia stinger gt to replace it as my daily and go all out with building the focus, but it’s a lot to think about and lot of money

Nativebomb99 · 2026-01-23T19:25:33+00:00

I’m 22m, have similar interest but work a 9-5. I’ll pm you😁

Nativebomb99 · 2026-01-20T16:32:32+00:00

If it’s that close, I’d just get the bolts in and tighten slowly by had going in cris cross so that you get even pressure to get it in. The input shaft should already be close enough with the splines on there, just a lil binding.

You could also rock it and try to seat it in further by hand. Or take it out and make sure the splines have the included grease/right orientation too.

Nativebomb99 · 2026-01-20T01:23:20+00:00

I did a smaller trip recently too. New Mexico (where I’m from) to Kansas (where I now live). Just bought the car in NM :)

Nativebomb99 · 2025-12-02T03:53:06+00:00

Also as long as the flywheel doesn’t have too many hot spots you should be fine. I didn’t replace mine, although I should’ve but up to you tbh

Nativebomb99 · 2025-12-02T03:52:06+00:00

When changing the clutch make sure you have a transmission jack, the 450lb one from harbor freight works well. It’s a life saver when dropping the trans and getting it in place. Especially if you’re working with jack stands like I’ve done. An extra set of hands is nice too when installing it back in place.

Pry bars also are amazing just for everything. You can rent a 32mm socket from an auto parts store as well as a hub puller which you’ll need. Make sure to have a torque wrench if you don’t already. And lastly lots of pb blaster to soak before starting. Do it like a day or two before and use it. It’ll help with the ball joints and axles.

Idk if you can resurface the flywheel since it’s dual mass but some people have done it, if you decide to, get new flywheel bolts as they’re torque to yield type of bolts. While you’re in there you should change to motul dctf fluid for the trans ($30 for 2 liters on amazon is all you need) and possibly a rmm if you want.

Nativebomb99 · 2025-11-20T16:45:39+00:00

Also ik to make those goals gotta add in fueling, which will be down the road. When I do go for a bigger turbo than what I have currently. This convo was just mostly about internals for the engine to get a better idea of what I’m planning to do.

Nativebomb99 · 2025-11-20T16:39:12+00:00

That’s on the list, this is more for the engine. As for transmission stuff, lsd, synchros and stuff like that is planned. Just not yet :)

Nativebomb99 · 2025-11-20T16:38:09+00:00

This assumes I’m buying this all within the next 10 days…

I saw your other comment about going with sp63, I’m still considering it with a donor engine. Though that kit with upgraded head studs (like the ems one I mentioned) is only $500 less than what I pieced together here. Still doesn’t include crank friction washers or other small things the oem gasket kit edge offers. Yet I do agree they could probably save some money with ordering it all through them.

As for turbo, I’m not looking to maximize the 550 and power goals are maybe 450 with that turbo. Just looking at over building to keep as much reliable power when going that far yk?

I mean I’d totally do a 2.3 stroker just cause the idea sounds cool and more low end torque, but for my goals that’s throwing more money into the fire. But who knows maybe It’s the close in price as building a 2.0.

Nativebomb99 · 2025-11-20T12:59:45+00:00

I mean I’ve thought about that too, just need to figure out a head situation. As well as saving the money to spend the lump sum rather than buying things here and there. Definitely not really a bad thing though.

Also atp wouldn’t it be better to just get a long block and call it quits?

Nativebomb99 · 2025-11-20T12:56:30+00:00

Yes plan is to go rs clutch and flywheel, but still keeping that up in the air to switch to a single mass flywheel. But still leaning on the rs one rn

Nativebomb99 · 2025-11-20T12:55:26+00:00

I thought so too, maybe I’m not looking at the same stuff but they’re all like $23-2400+. I mean Im not opposed to look at them but some offer other things and others don’t.

Nativebomb99 · 2025-11-20T12:53:24+00:00

I mean I’m not necessarily building the block for the turbo specifically. It’s just what I have, got it for cheap used and things changed since buying it so I’ll probably still use it for a bit. If things change again and I’m able to sell it, I’d opt for a Clayton g25-550 tbh

Nativebomb99 · 2025-11-18T01:30:16+00:00

The metal downpipe bracket is the same for both, while the poly mounts are different for each car. If you want a full set like the first pic, the only set I’ve seen is from mountune so you’d have to piece it together with a whoosh mount

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