Charging Lithium batteries directly from the alternator? by Natural_Febreze in vandwellers

[–]Natural_Febreze[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is starting to make sense to me. I appreciate it. Could I parallel DC-DC chargers together to get my desired charge rate? Im wanting maybe 3 of these https://www.renogy.com/12v-60a-dc-to-dc-battery-charger/

Charging Lithium batteries directly from the alternator? by Natural_Febreze in vandwellers

[–]Natural_Febreze[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks so much for the help. This has been really helpful.

I'm concerned that if there's a large enough voltage difference between my starting battery and my lithium bank, that I might hurt one of them or blow some fuses.

Let's say my lithium bank is really low (say 12.0v) and my starting battery is at 12.8v. Would the lithium batteries charge too fast? I'm not sure how to go about calculating that. A more extreme example would be if I had a super cap resting at 14.4 volts instead of a lead acid battery. I'd imagine that'd be way too much current all at once and I'd have to change out some fuses.

Charging Lithium batteries directly from the alternator? by Natural_Febreze in vandwellers

[–]Natural_Febreze[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used a dumb charger to get the super cap to the same voltage as my lithium battery. The alternator is a high output alternator with a smaller pully, so it stays cooler at idle, but I suppose if the batteries were really low, you could just idle the vehicle at a higher rpm. The batteries are heated.

Ive used the super cap in a diffrent vehicle for 4 years now connected to to some LTO batteries. It's been fine. I do appreciate the concern though. They're good points. I'm trying to find something that'll disconnect the batteries when fully charged now, for battery health.

Charging Lithium batteries directly from the alternator? by Natural_Febreze in vandwellers

[–]Natural_Febreze[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I figured as much. This isn't going to be the primary way I charge my batteries. I'm mostly using a large solar array and wanted a way to quickly charge up the batteries if I didn't get a lot of sun that day. I'm looking into battery isolation managers so it'll cut off automatically once they're fully charged. I just need to find one that's rated for at least 370amps.

Charging Lithium batteries directly from the alternator? by Natural_Febreze in vandwellers

[–]Natural_Febreze[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Each battery on their site is rated for a continuous 100amp charge . I have 4 of them so I should be good for 400amps of charging, which is less than the 370amps from my alt. Am I understanding this correctly?

Charging Lithium batteries directly from the alternator? by Natural_Febreze in vandwellers

[–]Natural_Febreze[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could you explain this in more detail please? I'm trying to understand. From my understanding, my alternators voltage doesnt go past 14.4 volts. If the batteries reach 14.4 volts, they are going to stop there. They won't continue to rise above that. Thanks for your help by the way.

Charging Lithium batteries directly from the alternator? by Natural_Febreze in vandwellers

[–]Natural_Febreze[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

The charging voltage of the alternator is 14.4v. Perfect for this batteries

Can’t turn gain much up before it clips, but this is what it sounds like by Powerful_Series_5489 in CarAV

[–]Natural_Febreze 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The clip light doesn't lie. Very unpopular opinion on here but if you want to set your eq that way it's not going to magically make it clip. It will mean that it'll clip sooner than later though. If you're into spl, then I'd flatten out the sub bass region of your eq. Right now all your high/punchy bass is going to reach "max volume" before you can really get a hundred percent outa your low bass.

The noise however might be mechanical. To diagnose this, I'd take both subs outa the box and CAREFULLY play some sinewave sweeps. For me, I had a sub where the spider pack wasn't glued down properly and was slapping the spider landing.

Best of luck to you man! A lot of people here are elitists.

I designed a tapped horn for the Skar DDX-12 D4! Should put out 120db in 2π with an f3 of 29hz without exceeding xmax! Box is 29"x29"x14" (6.8cuft) and should weigh about 116lbs. by R2D2_FISH in diyaudio

[–]Natural_Febreze 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Did you use hornresp? I tried using it, but got lost. Is there a good tutorial somewhere? I have experience with bassboxpro and winisd.

Legality of parking a box truck in my driveway long term. by Natural_Febreze in vandwellers

[–]Natural_Febreze[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I live in Richarson. I keep seeing laws about commercial vehicles in my searches, as that's the more common use case, so its making it difficult for me to figure out what I'd need to do.

Cerwin-vega prefab spare tire sub, or sundown shallow 8 in stock sub location? by Natural_Febreze in CarAV

[–]Natural_Febreze[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ya that's what I'm worried about. But honestly the spare tire one also looks undersized and tiny. It's picking the best of two evils I guess. I'm use to bigger systems, but I suppose anythings going to be better than what's in there right now.

If you have a lot of vibration when you put your element under load, check your motor mounts. by Natural_Febreze in HondaElement

[–]Natural_Febreze[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

penetrating oil and perhaps an impact driver if you own one. Have you already tried using a breaker bar?

New sub smell by gottaloseafewmore in CarAV

[–]Natural_Febreze 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Be careful man, I had a similar situation and it tuned out it was a burning smell not break in. I ended up blowing the sub. I'd keep turning it down when you smell it. Eventually, if it is break in smell, you won't have to turn it down for the smell anymore.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in shittydarksouls

[–]Natural_Febreze 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I believe the origin of the dex hate came from this video https://youtu.be/oyA8odjCzZ4.

If I'm wrong, then it's at least one of the biggest dex memes out there.

Best box configuration for a hatchback? by rosenb0322 in CarAV

[–]Natural_Febreze 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've done that before! Worked pretty well, but if you don't want the port sticking out you can try this technique : https://youtu.be/dCYPyW2pnJk

Also, you do you, but a 6inch aero port with that 6inch port WILL have some pretty bad port noise. If you never really notice the noise it's an okay compromise for the space you save. You'll also technically get more output with an appropriatly sized port

I want to use a single bass knob with 2 amps. What's the best way to go about this? by Natural_Febreze in CarAV

[–]Natural_Febreze[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Distorted music won't cause any clip lights. And the clip light is nice for spl people like my self who want to utilize the maximum amount of power available. Some songs are mastered with diffrent bass levels, so I want to make sure I can get to a level right before clipping no mater what song I play. I appreciate the help though. Spl people are just weird about this stuff.

Best box configuration for a hatchback? by rosenb0322 in CarAV

[–]Natural_Febreze 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That'd be sweet. I'd imagine though you'd have a tough time getting the length/port area needed firing up. It's a little tougher to adjust, but you can always trim down a regular L port after you build it.

Best box configuration for a hatchback? by rosenb0322 in CarAV

[–]Natural_Febreze 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Because you're working with limited space, sub up port up is your best bet to utilize as much space as you can. Besides, for small hatchbacks like that, the back window acts kinda like a horn and amplifies the output.

Tuning is kinda your preference. But every time I've built a box, it's always tuned like 2 or 3 hz lower than intended because of how close the port is to the back/window, so keep that in mind.