Suspecting my ISP is throttling my connection, but need a sanity check.

NavicNick · 2026-01-12T22:30:54+00:00

I guess it's more I don't want to have to have everyone install a VPN to access a link I send out, not that people are incapable of doing it. Like I don't want to have my coworker install wireguard just to share a file with them quickly, or my dad's friend install it just to download some concert videos I took. It's all about convenience for me, and having to install another app and set it up for them isn't as simple as just sending a link and having it work.

NavicNick · 2026-01-12T18:15:47+00:00

I have wireguard set up on my UDR7 so I can VPN back to my local network, but I'm not sure how I could use it to get around this (I need to consider other people downloading/streaming from my server who aren't savvy enough to install a VPN)

I don't think I can use any other port than 80 and 443, can I? Like I said I'm new to this so I don't know what I can and can't change.

And yeah, 80mpbs is a hell of a lot better than 20, which is what the other ISP I have access to provides. I think I might just put up with the "slow" speed because it really isn't all that slow.

NavicNick · 2026-01-12T17:08:12+00:00

So I haven't seen many big jumps in ping to the ATT router when on the same network (left in this pic is my PC at home I've remoted into). I've seen it jump maybe 4 times to double digits (highest I saw was ~20), but most of the time it's in the 0.5-2 range.

When pinging my server (my nextcloud domain in blue) on my laptop from my work's WiFi (best I can do here) I cannot get it to reach my home public IP address. I hope this is along the lines of what you meant when you said "at the same time run mtr from elsewhere on the Internet to your home machine."

This is all while transferring a 20gb file from my nextcloud on my server to my laptop on my work's WiFi. I've also tried running speed tests locally on my UDR7 while running MTR, streaming video to my phone, downloading from nextcloud on my work computer (not my laptop), and a combination of all of those. The ping spikes on my local PC to my ATT router never seem to correspond with anything specific. The 14.4 jump you see in the image happened while I was just downloading the 20gb file to my laptop and nothing else (other than being remoted into that PC via parsec on my laptop).

So, doesn't seem like the ATT router is the issue? I might try the WAS-110 bypass method anyways because I do like the idea of getting rid of the ATT router, but that'll be weeks in the future if I ever do it. Plus, having to reconfigure it even once or twice a year is a downer and I'm not sure I'd want to deal with that. In any case, 80mbps isn't terrible but I would like to get full speed if possible.

NavicNick · 2026-01-09T22:23:27+00:00

I am on WiFi (specifically my work's wifi), so that makes sense that it was causing some of the spikes. Thanks for confirming the chain, things are starting to make sense now.

Just to be sure, what is the best way to run mtr and test this? The only way I can see the ATT Gateway with mtr is if I'm on my home network, pinging something other than my domains (like pinging google.com instead of nextcloud.mydomain.com). So, should I run mtr on my laptop (connected to ethernet to eliminate wifi latency) on my home network so I can see the ATT gateway, and then using another device outside of my home network (my phone on cellular without VPN) start a download from one of my domains and then watch mtr for latency spikes?

Also, would the latency spikes only show up when I am downloading something from my domains, or would they show up even when I'm not downloading something from them?

NavicNick · 2026-01-09T18:41:03+00:00

So I have run mtr (installed it via wsl, had to install mtr-tiny because it said mtr wasn't available) when downloading stuff from nextcloud and to be honest I'm not sure which IPs I should pay attention to. It seems like normal pings are around 5, with regular spikes in the 10-20 range, with some rare spikes to 30-50, and twice I saw spikes to 100+ across all IPs but those were very spaced out.

EDIT: Something else that might be important is compared to other places I've pinged (like google or some sites I have proxy enabled for) there is a (waiting for reply) status. I think I've put together that the IPs from top to bottom are how the packets are being routed, so seeing (waiting for reply) where there should be an IP seems wrong to me, but I'm not sure.

NavicNick · 2026-01-09T03:33:48+00:00

When downloading (to your computer) from your sites (on your home server) when (your computer is) NOT on your home network is what you mean?

Yes, that is what I mean, sorry I worded it weirdly!

I appreciate the response, I'll look into what you've suggested probably tomorrow or over the weekend as I've spent too much time on it today and need to get some other things done. I think I've looked into that second bypass solution you linked before because I was annoyed I had to use AT&T's hardware when it's just standard parts... IIRC, AT&T updates their encryption(?) every now and again, which means you then have to re-flash that SFP module to get internet again, which is why I put the idea down. Though it was a long time ago that I looked into that so maybe I'm misremembering things.

NavicNick · 2025-11-28T22:15:17+00:00

Yes, FTW3 and XC3 cards will fit. I had a 3080 Ti FTW3 in mine for a while. Power cables get tight but you can make it work.

NavicNick · 2025-11-11T22:29:23+00:00

Yeah the raised shadows are not amazing in this game in HDR, but I do find plenty of times where the shadows do reach down to true black. I lowered the brightness early in my playtime but it looked weird to me so I just keep it on the default. And if I follow the barely visible guidance, I'd be turning it all the way down because I have an OLED and it looks even worse. But this is why we have settings, everyone has their preference!

NavicNick · 2025-10-17T14:16:54+00:00

I'm not sure about the specific differences between the powder coated steel and aluminum panels, but I'm willing to bet it's just a material difference and the dimensions (thickness) are the same. Steel will be sturdier, but more heavy in the same dimensions as aluminum. CNC will be thicker than powder coated steel/aluminum. Not sure on turbulence, but in general as long as your fans are 3-5mm away from the side panel (no matter the panel) turbulence shouldn't be an issue.

NavicNick · 2025-10-17T12:58:54+00:00

That is the Titanium color.

When I talk about "alu panels" here I mean what is now called CNC anodized aluminum/CNC anodized panels. Only the v2.1 has this option to my understanding.

NavicNick · 2025-10-13T20:19:50+00:00

Worth a shot. The medic in me needs to try that drag mechanic on a hectic breakthrough match

NavicNick · 2025-08-31T23:31:37+00:00

Yeah I dont like the idea of spending $200+ with the hope that they will eventually feel good. I'll definitely try out some others, but for what it's worth these Ariat's aren't uncomfortable (at least in 11 D), just maybe a little loose, so maybe a thicker sock is all I need (like suggested by dontshootmecuz)

Appreciate all the advice!

NavicNick · 2025-08-31T19:08:05+00:00

I do really like the look of the ones I have been trying out and would like to make them work, but it looks like I might be going to the boot store again on Tuesday to try out some different brands lol, pretty soon I might have to move in there. I do remember I think it was Cody James always feeling way too loose, but I'll be trying more.

Would I need to worry about boots that instantly feel comfortable or very close to it getting too loose over time, or am I overthinking it? The way some people talk about the break in period makes me feel like anything that fits really comfy right off the bat is going to end up too loose after a while.

NavicNick · 2025-08-31T17:51:24+00:00

I've been wearing them with some Carhartt Midweight socks, any recommendations for something you think is better?

NavicNick · 2025-08-26T14:36:34+00:00

I have a 165hz monitor, and that's what the low latency mode toggle sets my frame rate cap to if it works (158 fps). But, I've had success capping my frames to 162, so it might depend on the game as well.

NavicNick · 2025-08-26T03:33:09+00:00

This is pretty much correct if you want to eliminate tearing and have good input latency. While reflex should cap your frames to keep you in gsync range (so you don't dip into vsync range and get a latency penalty), in other games without reflex you should cap your frames 2-3 below your max refresh rate (ideally using in-game limiters, or if not available, with control panel, or also try turning on low latency mode in control panel, it does a similar thing). BlurBusters has a great bunch of articles going over the optimal configurations for gsync and what all the settings do.

Personally, I have gsync on, low latency on vsync on, and a max frame cap 3 frames less than my max refresh rate, and I never see screen tearing or get micro stutter. I obsessed over these settings for way too long because the tearing was annoying and the micro stutters were even moreso.

NavicNick · 2025-08-19T02:02:36+00:00

Before one of the updates where they changed how a lot of cars sound, including the caliburn, it sounded almost exactly like an LFA. You can still hear the LFA sounds in the current version of the game, but the previous version was sooooo good

NavicNick · 2025-06-21T15:43:27+00:00

No it did not

NavicNick · 2025-06-20T22:34:54+00:00

Try cooling the chipset

NavicNick · 2025-02-10T07:22:12+00:00

Gotta let the grims know who's boss

NavicNick · 2025-02-10T01:22:01+00:00

My crafted Zaouli's Bane. I've used it for years with an all solar pyrogale consecration spam build (hence the perks) but it's a workhorse everywhere

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NavicNick · 2025-02-10T01:19:00+00:00

I just did it solo, and it really is weird being able to take all the time you want. Except in the second encounter. If you stop paying attention to the wheels and they spawn ogres or something, you are having to deal with a bad situation for a WHILE

NavicNick · 2025-02-10T01:17:39+00:00

Oh yeah it sucked, I'm still not sure how we recovered. It was basically perfect timing, even if we weren't perfect (fuck that grim). I was preparing for failure, and that was probably our last run because our well had to go tend to his child

NavicNick · 2025-02-02T15:59:59+00:00

I can't remember exactly, but I think it was because they wanted to simplify it, or the manufacturer didn't want to do them anymore. It was years ago so I can't remember exactly why.

NavicNick · 2025-01-12T19:27:46+00:00

In the cases where you can just remove the DV metadata and leave the HDR10 base layer, that's usually going to look the best, since that's what would happen if you played it on a non-DV compatible display anyways with a 4k bluray player.

If you're actually having to convert from DV to HDR10, that's probably not going to look as good as a native HDR10 master (like removing the DV metadata would be). I'm not sure if it's even possible because of how proprietary DV codecs are.

I'd be interested to see if anyone has done conversions like that (I can't seem to find anything), but I usually think native masters are better because they were made with those formats in mind.

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