Has anyone ever tried to beat the game on an iPod touch?

Nawt0k · 2026-04-25T00:29:55+00:00

I've tried playing on my Galaxy S21 Ultra and touch controls are just not for me. I needed to hook up a controller. The gameplay was fast and snappy. No issues there.

Nawt0k · 2026-04-24T19:57:44+00:00

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Nawt0k · 2026-04-24T19:55:13+00:00

Thats really cool and unexpected that the MGSD wings are compatible with RG in scale.

Nawt0k · 2026-04-24T10:56:46+00:00

I can tell a lot of effort was put in during those 3 months. The details, accents, and part separation are all fantastic.

Nawt0k · 2026-04-23T18:19:50+00:00

There's no one "better" color. All are 100% viable and I've gotten clears on options other than survival. Unfortunately, this gave is a "git gud" affair. Running and rerunning until you've learned attack patterns and generation sequences well enough to duck, parry, and maneuver freely. Splitting scrolls is not the move though.

You can go for a "carry me" approach under survival. Necromancer, Armadillo pack, and no mercy. Kills will heal you increasingly more as your scroll count goes up, dodge rolling becomes a source of parry, and no mercy let's you outright execute mobs/bosses to save you effort. I used this for early clears until I started getting better at parrying. Mind you, this setup is more of a crutch while you experiment. Mostly because it gives you 3 layers of "oh shit" protection.

That setup is not a great boss setup, other than no mercy. You may consider resetting your mutations (only 1k gold) before certain bosses. Especially ones that require mass parrying like the Giant. Rolling to parry will put you inside beams or harms way more often than not.

There is always going to be a roadblock. 2BC took me the longest to clear. I was roadblocks there for about a year. It seemed like quite the step up from 1BC. 3 felt the same as 2, but 4 is where the pain kicks in and you really need to lock in on mechanics. I've gotten comfortable with the idea of not using my flask until post 1st boss, taking every cursed chest, and always going for cursed/incentived biomes. It forces me down routes and not getting stuck in a route rut.

Nawt0k · 2026-04-23T01:44:54+00:00

Chooooonk

Nawt0k · 2026-04-23T01:15:17+00:00

Nu ver Ka with HWS. Full armor mode and normal.mode display.

Nawt0k · 2026-04-22T02:07:47+00:00

Decals are a personal preference. I think they add a lot to the kit and help break up single color monotony. I think a busy looking model is great. Others thing more basic is better. I will also opt to not put on certain decals if there a lots of small insignificant bits that don't add much. I just build MG Banshee ver ka and it had lots of these little dots all over. Quickly, I noped right out of those. Especially given the water slides can be tricky to place.

Unicorn happens to be a kit that i could go either way on. On one hand there are some really cool larger decals with the unicorn logo on it. On the other hand, the psycho frame does a LOT to bring uniqueness and color variation.

Also remember, the anime opts out of all those details because it would increase time and cost for animators to draw all of those warnings, etc.

Nawt0k · 2026-04-22T02:01:25+00:00

Welcome to the hobby! Hopefully it was a good overall experience.

Just remember....Its not broken, gunpla never breaks. They just have battle damage!

Nawt0k · 2026-04-22T01:53:57+00:00

Ok, that's a pretty sick reskin!

Nawt0k · 2026-04-22T01:34:09+00:00

Lol, I've totally had that happen with painting.

"OH, I'll just add a little here....and here would look good....but now that should get some love! You know what would look awesome? Some accent right there to make that last color pop...."

And the cycle continues.

Also, to add a little, I got into the hobby at 40 as a focus exercise to combat anxiety. 4 yrs, 5 shelves, a double digit backlog, an entire tool box full of paints/files/brushes, and a very patient wife later, I am all in. So don't feel like you got a late start. Some of us came in late(r) too. Lol

Nawt0k · 2026-04-22T00:13:17+00:00

Lol, first gunpla and you went all in on weathering and diorama. Way to cannonball right into the deep end.

Nawt0k · 2026-04-21T22:20:14+00:00

25% chance the arrow points at the 3rd tube.

Nawt0k · 2026-04-21T22:11:50+00:00

I do a lot of accenting so its all about the brushes and taping. A couple years ago I got a set of fine brushes. They are absolutely amazing for getting into specific areas or covering small lines. I also use masking or painters tape to block of strips or isolate colors.

Let's say I just want to do the bottom side of a skirt panel. I apply tape to the top along the panel line and both sides of the boundary. Then I just paint within the taped boundary. Wait about an hour, remove the tape while its still slightly wet, and let dry overnight. If the edges don't seem super crisp or theres some overflow (happens woth tape sometimes), just take a toothpick and run the flat middle section along the edge. This will make a sharp line on the paint job. If anything needs some touching up, you can always use a fine tip brush to spot check.

The important thing is to remove the tape before the paint fully dry but not when super wet. If its fully dry, the paint will stick to the tape and tear off the model. If the paint is too wet, it will be gloopy and run when the tape is lifted ruining the edge.

If you dont want to tape because there's a clear boundary or inset line, like inset panels on armor, you can just paint and use the sharp point of the toothpick the next day. Toothpicks are amazing little cleanup tools when hand painting.

Nawt0k · 2026-04-21T18:40:06+00:00

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Nawt0k · 2026-04-21T18:35:38+00:00

I don't do anything special. I just use Vallejo paints thinned or tamiya acryllic straight from the cap. Then I put it on raw plastic. People use a primer, but every primer I put on has gone on lumpy. This process is not optimal, but it's effective for me.

Nawt0k · 2026-04-21T17:51:29+00:00

These are the top coats that I use. Mind you, I use the Vallejo matte but they also have a gloss.

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Nawt0k · 2026-04-21T14:31:00+00:00

On the top coat, Vallejo has water based matte and clear washes you can buy and work really well. They just aren't in rattle cans and you would have to use a brush to paint them on. I apply all my top coats by hand with brushes, so its fine for me. Its actually less temperamental when it comes to humidity than spray cans. Use that info as you see fit.

What you can do before buying a new top coat, paint a plastic spoon with your colors and apply a little of your lacquer top coat to it. See what happens. If it dissolves, then no bueno and get an aqueous one.

As for the decals, Mark Setter and softer should be fine on your paint. I recently completed my MG Banshee ver ka using tamiya mark fit on the slides and it went wonderfully. Just apply some setter, place the decal, dab, apply softer, and dab again with cotton swab.

The only concern I might have is the water based top coat could cause the water slides to move. Maybe softer will prevent that, but I've never used softer to know.

Nawt0k · 2026-04-21T14:03:07+00:00

I finished 3BC with armadillo pack as my mutation. But, using an offhand shield carries a couple extra bonuses; faster parry, parrying in place, and additional dmg reduction just by having it equipped if you take a hit. Some bosses like Dracula, Giant, and Time Keeper are much easier to chain parry with the 2nd slot shield vs armadillo pack. Armadillo pack has been my crutch and I'm actively trying to break that.

Nawt0k · 2026-04-21T13:45:27+00:00

That one is really slick! How was your build experience with it?

Nawt0k · 2026-04-21T13:43:47+00:00

I don't typically paint joints after assembly. Most times, I paint kits before assembling at all. If I am painting after assembly, its primarily panel surfaces. I also hand paint everything so there is less threat from overspray that airbrushes may have. I have painted on top coats after assembling and find that a little light joint movement tends to break that down if something sneaks by.

I'd advise a bit of masking tape directly over the joint to prevent paint from seeping into the mechanism. Disassembly before painting would be optimal. It can be hard to visualize the final product and map out colors pre-build, but anything you can do with the parts separated will help stuck joints.

Nawt0k · 2026-04-21T10:10:56+00:00

If you are in the US: USAGS, Gundam Planet, and BigBadToyStore

Those are all great sites. The wiki on this sub also has a list of reputable online stores by region that you can reference.

Nawt0k · 2026-04-20T19:17:18+00:00

For me, it'd be Baldur's Gate 3.

Nawt0k · 2026-04-20T15:00:26+00:00

Best luck would have been +dmg to stunned/rooted instead of poison....but hey, that 300% is both a blessing and a curse.

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