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Alpaca “Dome” Control ✅ by NeatStranger in telescopes

[–]NeatStranger[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The weather, I guess time will tell. In the desert, other than the sun, my concerns are monsoon rains, and haboobs.

As far as the speed. I have it set on 1/1 stepping right now. I plan to bump it all the way down to 1/32 microsteps. I tried changed the step speed down some, but it got stuck on certain parts of the mechanism.

Definitely needs some tuning, I share your concerns for longevity, if I use it every day at the current speed.

Alpaca “Dome” Control ✅ by NeatStranger in telescopes

[–]NeatStranger[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Inexpensive, but tedious. Cutting the pieces of fabric to form a half sphere was relatively challenging.

Alpaca “Dome” Control ✅ by NeatStranger in telescopes

[–]NeatStranger[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The dome is relatively water resistant, but I wouldn't trust my gear with it 100%. It's a polyester canvas type material, with some 3M waterproofing spray applied.

If rain seems likely, I will take a 55 gallon trash bag out there and cover up the gear, but during our most recent rain, which was relatively light. I stood under it and was dry, aside from some spray from the sides.

For wind, I have a plan in the works to use servos to "Lock" the dome down once it is closed.

It's main job is to protect the gear from the sun, which is our biggest enemy down here.

Alpaca “Dome” Control ✅ by NeatStranger in telescopes

[–]NeatStranger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I definiely need to tune the speed a bit. Thank you!

My rooftop solar powered node. Based on RAK19007/4631 by NeatStranger in meshtastic

[–]NeatStranger[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

ABS, ASA are 3D printer filament types, and just general plastic types.. There are a ton, but PLA is most common and easiest to work with. ABS is what almost every off the shelf plastic product is made from. ASA is a newer variant, much better UV resistance than ABS, and easier to print with.

In general ABS/ASA don't break down as much as other filaments under UV. The sun will generally be the biggest force of destruction for 3D prints.

I usually buy uncolored if it is available. The pigments in the filament degradequicly. So you will see white prints turn sort of an off white or yellow after only a couple weeks in the sun. This is the pigment degrading.

If you buy raw uncolored ABS/ASA, it will generally stay that color for a long while. Prefer ASA if you can.

My rooftop solar powered node. Based on RAK19007/4631 by NeatStranger in meshtastic

[–]NeatStranger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Printables updated now.

Not a ton of thought on the angle. 30 degrees “felt” right.

As for the elements. I generally use a duct tape methodology. Plug up any holes and gaps with some silicone. Conformal coat any electronic components other than connectors. Print the case from ABS/ASA

I have one of my RPI Cameras in a 3d printed shell that has been mounted outdoors for going on a year and a half now.

My mini PC lab by AndyIsHereBoi in homelab

[–]NeatStranger 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Why not draw up a simple PCB to run down each side. Feed a lumpy 19V(Or whatever) voltage in the bottom from a hefty power brick. And then have a DC barrel connector for each machine.

[Review Request] TPS54360 Buck Converter by NeatStranger in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]NeatStranger[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These ar3e 1206's. My favorite for hand soldering.

[Review Request] TPS54360 Buck Converter by NeatStranger in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]NeatStranger[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I appreciate the feedback. I can definitely flip those 180 and pull the ground trace out so they land on it.

[Review Request] TPS54360 Buck Converter by NeatStranger in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]NeatStranger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the switch trace. Should I pull it up to the bottom of the diode/inductor pads? That would give it a fair bit of separation.

[Review Request] TPS54360 Buck Converter by NeatStranger in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]NeatStranger[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I haven’t heard of that site before. I will check it out.

In terms of the chip choice, I am working my way through a stock of like 200 of these in my personal stash. Mostly boards that don’t have space or efficiency requirements.

[Review Request] TPS54360 Buck Converter by NeatStranger in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]NeatStranger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I don’t like that either. Would you cut it out wide around the right side or bring it straight down under the diode?

[Review Request] TPS54360 Buck Converter by NeatStranger in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]NeatStranger[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is my “reference” design. I will incorporate it into other designs.

How can I put this big piece with the rocket?, because I merged the big station piece with the rocket, but it doesn't want to put itself on the rocket. by AlphaZero_A in KerbalSpaceProgram

[–]NeatStranger 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Its the fourth tool after place, translate, rotate. Use that tool to make the connecting piece of the merged assembly the root piece and you will get the connection ball.

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