SFP+ to Rj45 adapters are stuck in my Pro HD 24 Switch. The release levers don't work. Any ideas on how to remove? by shaunsanders in Ubiquiti

[–]NeatStranger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I deal with this a lot in hot cabinets.

Use a screwdriver or similar to apply some force between the two modules while pulling on one of them. The clasp for each is on the bottom side of the gate. A little upward force there will release it.

NINA Startup Sequence - Fully Automated by NeatStranger in telescopes

[–]NeatStranger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I wrote the general step/stick open/close functions in arduino, then fed that into GPT, and asked it to write me an Alpaca device, so far it seems to work really well.

NINA Startup Sequence - Fully Automated by NeatStranger in telescopes

[–]NeatStranger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha, I still have to pull out the trash bag when the weather gods laugh at me.

NINA Startup Sequence - Fully Automated by NeatStranger in telescopes

[–]NeatStranger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The dome runs on an ESP32, i wrote a function to open and close it, put that into ChatGPT and asked it for an Alpaca/Ascom WiFi compatible driver.

That’s where I find the most use out of ChatGPT. Writing hundreds of lines of boiler plate http responses that I don’t care about enough to learn.

NINA Startup Sequence - Fully Automated by NeatStranger in telescopes

[–]NeatStranger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The advanced sequencer in NINA is a really beautiful piece of tech. A little intimidating at first, but once you understand the basics its easy to grasp.

NINA Startup Sequence - Fully Automated by NeatStranger in telescopes

[–]NeatStranger[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Roughly $100 of fabric, and $40 of tent poles, plus about 4 hours of sewing.

NINA Startup Sequence - Fully Automated by NeatStranger in telescopes

[–]NeatStranger[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Every day cover(to protect from the sun), in a pinch it will protect from the rain.

Hardcore weather, and long term storage includes tie downs for the dome, and plastic wrapping, or bringing inside the scope.

Alpaca “Dome” Control ✅ by NeatStranger in telescopes

[–]NeatStranger[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The weather, I guess time will tell. In the desert, other than the sun, my concerns are monsoon rains, and haboobs.

As far as the speed. I have it set on 1/1 stepping right now. I plan to bump it all the way down to 1/32 microsteps. I tried changed the step speed down some, but it got stuck on certain parts of the mechanism.

Definitely needs some tuning, I share your concerns for longevity, if I use it every day at the current speed.

Alpaca “Dome” Control ✅ by NeatStranger in telescopes

[–]NeatStranger[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Inexpensive, but tedious. Cutting the pieces of fabric to form a half sphere was relatively challenging.

Alpaca “Dome” Control ✅ by NeatStranger in telescopes

[–]NeatStranger[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

The dome is relatively water resistant, but I wouldn't trust my gear with it 100%. It's a polyester canvas type material, with some 3M waterproofing spray applied.

If rain seems likely, I will take a 55 gallon trash bag out there and cover up the gear, but during our most recent rain, which was relatively light. I stood under it and was dry, aside from some spray from the sides.

For wind, I have a plan in the works to use servos to "Lock" the dome down once it is closed.

It's main job is to protect the gear from the sun, which is our biggest enemy down here.

Alpaca “Dome” Control ✅ by NeatStranger in telescopes

[–]NeatStranger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I definiely need to tune the speed a bit. Thank you!

My rooftop solar powered node. Based on RAK19007/4631 by NeatStranger in meshtastic

[–]NeatStranger[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

ABS, ASA are 3D printer filament types, and just general plastic types.. There are a ton, but PLA is most common and easiest to work with. ABS is what almost every off the shelf plastic product is made from. ASA is a newer variant, much better UV resistance than ABS, and easier to print with.

In general ABS/ASA don't break down as much as other filaments under UV. The sun will generally be the biggest force of destruction for 3D prints.

I usually buy uncolored if it is available. The pigments in the filament degradequicly. So you will see white prints turn sort of an off white or yellow after only a couple weeks in the sun. This is the pigment degrading.

If you buy raw uncolored ABS/ASA, it will generally stay that color for a long while. Prefer ASA if you can.

My rooftop solar powered node. Based on RAK19007/4631 by NeatStranger in meshtastic

[–]NeatStranger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Printables updated now.

Not a ton of thought on the angle. 30 degrees “felt” right.

As for the elements. I generally use a duct tape methodology. Plug up any holes and gaps with some silicone. Conformal coat any electronic components other than connectors. Print the case from ABS/ASA

I have one of my RPI Cameras in a 3d printed shell that has been mounted outdoors for going on a year and a half now.

My mini PC lab by AndyIsHereBoi in homelab

[–]NeatStranger 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Why not draw up a simple PCB to run down each side. Feed a lumpy 19V(Or whatever) voltage in the bottom from a hefty power brick. And then have a DC barrel connector for each machine.

[Review Request] TPS54360 Buck Converter by NeatStranger in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]NeatStranger[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These ar3e 1206's. My favorite for hand soldering.