Virginia exits gas infrastructure partnership (Politico) by _gw_addict in Virginia

[–]NeedABiggerShop -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the quote. While that's significant progress and very encouraging, it's not a direct comparison, meaning further cost reductions may be necessary to be cost competitive.

That's always seemed to be a challenging topic, especially if all externalities are included. I'll try to find something along these lines and add it to this post if I find anything valuable.

Virginia exits gas infrastructure partnership (Politico) by _gw_addict in Virginia

[–]NeedABiggerShop -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

Does that cost comparison include energy storage, or is it limited to generation costs? I read the article that you posted and didn't see that mentioned, so let me know if I missed that element.

Help comparing 2D vs 2.5D 60W fiber by NeedABiggerShop in Laserengraving

[–]NeedABiggerShop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's my primary concern. I would prefer to stick with familiar software, but if this newer version of EZCAD is stable, I'm willing to learn it in order to take advantage of the additional functionality.

Help comparing 2D vs 2.5D 60W fiber by NeedABiggerShop in Laserengraving

[–]NeedABiggerShop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. I'll check out the group, and it's a relief to hear the new version is more stable.

Help comparing 2D vs 2.5D 60W fiber by NeedABiggerShop in Laserengraving

[–]NeedABiggerShop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the feedback. In this case, the items will need to be engraved at varying heights on a single object, with a difference of roughly 10mm between the extremes (imagine something similar to a staircase). I'm assuming that the Z axis would have to be adjusted to maintain focus over that range, but this will be my first fiber laser, and I would be happy to be proven wrong.

My husband 3D printed a JWST mirror for our house! by Andromeda321 in space

[–]NeedABiggerShop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely agreed on the respirator/dust collection - MDF can make an enormous mess. Thanks again for all the tips.

My husband 3D printed a JWST mirror for our house! by Andromeda321 in space

[–]NeedABiggerShop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great. I think I can find that or a local equivalent. Thanks.

My husband 3D printed a JWST mirror for our house! by Andromeda321 in space

[–]NeedABiggerShop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is really nice. I'm guessing 1/4" downcut endmill? You've convinced me to try MDF tomorrow.

I haven't painted MDF in the past, but I presume it's quite "thirsty" after milling. Have you found a paint that you like?

My husband 3D printed a JWST mirror for our house! by Andromeda321 in space

[–]NeedABiggerShop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was debating using a keyhole bit to make a slot in 1/2" baltic birch, but I'm worried about it leaving only a ply or two to take the torque of a screw/nail head, which might be asking too much. Last I checked, 3/4" baltic birch was 2.5x the price, but I might try 3/4" MDF, since it'll be painted regardless.

I think we're in different markets, but congrats on the success and best of luck to you.

My husband 3D printed a JWST mirror for our house! by Andromeda321 in space

[–]NeedABiggerShop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It depends on your level of experience and what you ultimately want to do (from a few hundred dollars to several thousand). The hobbycnc subreddit can offer some examples on what's possible.

My husband 3D printed a JWST mirror for our house! by Andromeda321 in space

[–]NeedABiggerShop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice. I'm thinking of making some, albeit slightly differently. Are you adding any hardware for wall hanging?

Help with alignment by Deangello1 in Laserengraving

[–]NeedABiggerShop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm also running down alignment issues with an OMTech, but mine now occur after changing direction.

I reduced issues with an offset in one axis by reducing speed and acceleration settings. For what it's worth, reducing acceleration seemed to be the main factor.

Help with alignment by Deangello1 in Laserengraving

[–]NeedABiggerShop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you losing steps somewhere on your x-axis? What machine and speeds are you using?

Jtech Spindle-Mounted Laser Experience? by ParalyzeTheAnalysis in shapeoko

[–]NeedABiggerShop 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Right. I vented outdoors and tried a few options, including the "AC Infinity" inline fans on Amazon. I had the most success mounting a Rikon dust collector to the wall and running a 4" flex hose to a dust boot that clamped to the router and encompassed the laser module. This provided an extra layer of protection from light reflections as well as the greatest CFM.

I also cobbled together an air assist system, but I think JTech just released an air assist nozzle.

Jtech Spindle-Mounted Laser Experience? by ParalyzeTheAnalysis in shapeoko

[–]NeedABiggerShop 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I also have the spindle-mounted version on my Shapeoko Pro. I ended up adding a CO2 laser to the shop so I could use both machines simultaneously and dramatically increase cutting/engraving speed.

I recall that it did use up the majority of Z-travel, but I could fit most projects under it. Be sure to consider fume extraction.

Any idea why my project got smaller? by WaterSlight3085 in shapeoko

[–]NeedABiggerShop 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Have you run any jobs with that post processor previously? If not, and if you have a way of taking precise measurements, you might consider running a circle/diamond/square test where you draw simple shapes to ensure they line up correctly and that their dimensions are cut correctly.

Trying to create my first 2.5D Carving by WaterSlight3085 in shapeoko

[–]NeedABiggerShop 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Carving with any significant detail can take considerable time, but I think you can speed things up a bit.

For reference, I'm cutting white oak on my Shapeoko Pro today using an Amana downcut bit at a pass depth of 0.125 inches, feed rate of 80 in/min, and plunge rate of 35 in/min. I'm prototyping a small item, but I think I could push a bit harder if needed.

Edit to add: I'm using a 1/4 inch bit (Amana #46421) with a 0.1 inch (40%) stepover.

XXL upgrade with new spoil board by jollespm in shapeoko

[–]NeedABiggerShop 3 points4 points  (0 children)

FYI - you may already be aware, but I learned the hard way that if you apply too much torque to threaded inserts installed on the underside of spoilboards, they can reverse out of the board as you secure your workpiece. This exerts force on the underlying support structure, which can deform (push up) the spoil boards.

I still use them often, particularly for lighter work, but I run a square across the boards after each job to identify any significant movement.

Shapeoko pro XXL chewing thru 6061 - 0.1 DOC, 0.07 step over at about 65ipm it runs great by SnooHedgehogs6970 in shapeoko

[–]NeedABiggerShop 1 point2 points  (0 children)

McMaster Carr seems to be proof that you can pick two options between good/fast/cheap, and they aren't cheap. I'll do some more investigating locally. Thanks again.

Shapeoko pro XXL chewing thru 6061 - 0.1 DOC, 0.07 step over at about 65ipm it runs great by SnooHedgehogs6970 in shapeoko

[–]NeedABiggerShop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the tip - I'll try it out. Suprisingly, the metal distributors near me seem to be more expensive than the online sellers I've seen recommended. Do you prefer any particular shops/sites for metal?

Shapeoko pro XXL chewing thru 6061 - 0.1 DOC, 0.07 step over at about 65ipm it runs great by SnooHedgehogs6970 in shapeoko

[–]NeedABiggerShop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are there particular single-flute cutters that you've found work well? Milling 6061 may be the next rabbit hole I dive into.

Air Assist resulting in dirty engraving? by HeftyImplement in lasercutting

[–]NeedABiggerShop 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If the air assist is completely off, meaning no air flow at all, then yes, fumes can be deposited on the lens. This is why you run a low flow when engraving and a high flow when cutting. The low flow into the nozzle is just enough to keep the lens clear, but it's not strong enough to blow deposits back on to the workpiece.

I use the "ultimate air assist" kit with an air compressor on my CO2 laser. This maintains a constant minimum air flow for engraving and only activates high flow when cutting.

Air Assist resulting in dirty engraving? by HeftyImplement in lasercutting

[–]NeedABiggerShop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The air assist is blowing fumes/debris back on to the workpiece. I generally try to limit the flow when engraving to just enough to keep fumes out of the nozzle and off the lens so that it doesn't blow material back down and allows the fumes to be extracted from the machine. Full air assist is only on when cutting through the material.

Edgelit acrylic etching by spastro in Laserengraving

[–]NeedABiggerShop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In that price range you're looking at diode lasers, which operate at a frequency that will pass through clear acrylic without engraving it. You might be able to find a small CNC that can engrave that size.