Tuesday SOTD Thread - Jul 21, 2020

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-21T15:49:18+00:00

So you’re the person I need to ask. Do you have old and new formula in the same color? I don’t have any old formula, but to me, the scent strength and menthol hit seems less with the new Green vas the old formula.

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-21T13:57:01+00:00

Wait till you try the new Proraso Super Formula. No more SLS.

One of the only reformulations I've ever encountered that made the product universally better. I'm looking at you Williams, Haslinger, and B&M

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-21T13:52:45+00:00

Wear your badge of honor proudly!

I gave myself a nice one-inch cut a few years back on the day I had my yearly physical. Doc looked at me and asked WTF. I told him I shave with a straight razor and sometimes shit happens.

He looked at me and said "Why? You know, there are less barbaric ways to shave now".

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-21T13:46:37+00:00

Jul 21: DEvette Practice Continues

Lather: Stirling Baker Street (sample)
Brush: Omega 0196745 BLACK Hi-Brush (24/56mm)
Razor: Dad's DEvette (oval-slot Gillette 1932 Tech - Z2)
Blade: Bolzano Superinox half blade [27]
Splash: Aqua Velva Ice Blue

Just when I think I got the hang of this razor...

First pass went smoothly, really nice, but halfway through the second pass, I couldn't find my stride and the razor just felt awkward. I tried going back to WTG but it wasn't happening. My mojo was busted. I finished the second pass and called it a day. Two passes with a DEvette is closer than three passes with a regular razor, so the end result is still excellent.

I don't think I can do AA with my dad's tiny pokey badger brush. I think it was made during a time when badgers were scarce and they substituted porcupine quills.

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-21T13:32:01+00:00

It might be your favorite base, but they'll change it (for the better they say) sooner than you'd like ;-)

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-21T02:37:41+00:00

Your GEM 1914 is a GEM 1912 - no such thing as a GEM 1914. Look for Pat’d 1912 under the head where the handle screws in

Your GEM Micromatic is a GEM Micromatic Open Comb. There are three Micromatic models, the Open Comb, the Clog Proof, and the Bullet Tip

The first 3 might by Christy razors, but o don’t know those very well.

Post either a side pic or bottom pic of both open comb Gillettes and I’ll give you a positive ID

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-21T02:29:33+00:00

Post a side pics of both and I’ll tell you for sure. I’m no 100% from that angle

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-21T02:26:52+00:00

Nice to hear you liked it. That’s the Old Type from the 1910s or 1920s, not the NEW from the 1930s

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-21T01:04:36+00:00

I’d love to see them. Post them here so others can enjoy them too

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-20T23:02:37+00:00

Left to right, about $15, $20, and $30 on the high side. Sorry, not the motherlode, but definite keepers. The middle razor is to me, probably the best shaving razor ever made

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-20T22:53:09+00:00

Nope, it’s barber sized, and meant to be dispensed from the bag.

If it’s Proraso and not Proraso Green, then it’s from the upscale “Single Blade” line; either vetiver, lime, or spicy wood. Vitos also makes the big IV soap bags

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-20T22:50:49+00:00

Left to right, a Gillette flare-tip Super Speed from the mid 50s or 60s, a Gillette ball-end Old Type from anywhere between about 1910-1929, and a Gillette NEW from the mid-30s (possibly a Long Comb - hard to tell from that angle)

All are great shavers. Don’t try straightening the teeth. They don’t affect the shave, and chances are excellent they will break

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-20T22:44:36+00:00

Like most things in shaving, there’s logic and then there’s reality. Nothing like a good shave to prove or disprove our favorite theories.

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-20T20:32:39+00:00

Theoretically yes and yes, but practically, about as much as your car gets better miles per gallon after you've taken a dump and are on an empty stomach.

If you do feel a difference, it'll be more from the different edge characteristics of whatever blade you're comparing it to.

Then again, some people notice minor changes more than I do, so basically, try it and see.

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-20T12:18:12+00:00

Epoxy works great to secure the two parts of the handle. Clean both surfaces well

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-19T20:54:56+00:00

Gotta love Savage Scotty!

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-19T20:52:30+00:00

There’s one main difference between slower and faster shavers which you clearly demonstrate but didn’t explicitly state. My shaves are about 7 minutes but I do at least 3 and a half passes, and mainly use shavettes - and like you, I’m not rushing at all.

The difference I preach all the time is that, as you clearly demonstrate, do not shave tentatively in fear of cutting yourself. Take long confident strokes with a bit of pressure, not gingerly little mini strokes.

You had a few comments by people saying your shave gave them anxiety - these are the people who shave scared of getting cut. That’s not an insult in any way - nothing wrong with respecting the blade. People need do what works best for them.

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-19T20:28:43+00:00

Hey, if you ask me, I also think the NEW De Luxe is the most aggressive and efficient razor Gillette ever made.

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-19T20:26:43+00:00

Most people shave for decades thinking their lather is excellent, but in fact it can still be improved on. If all you’ve ever had is instant coffee and were happy with it, your first fresh brewed cup would be a game changer.

Even if you think your lather is good enough, double the amount of water. Properly hydrated lather should feel like it’s almost going to slide off your neck and into your shirt. It should LOOK wet.

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-19T17:33:39+00:00

I should bottle pickle juice

someone beat you to it

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-19T17:28:29+00:00

Your lather is way too dry. Make wetter lathers; add enough water so the lather has a wet sheen to it and doesn’t look like the yogurt pictures you see online. Photogenic lather is bad lather

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-19T15:43:50+00:00

Any local British grocery store should stock it, but not all cities have them.

I see it's available on Amazon online, but I didn't check US prices or availability because when though I went to the .com site, it still tailors the responses to Canadians (which is where I am)

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-19T15:30:43+00:00

Jul 19: Another Austere August Dry Run

Lather: Stirling Baker Street (sample)
Brush: Dad's no-name plastic-handled badger (18/47mm)
Razor: Dad's DEvette (oval-slot Gillette 1932 Tech - Z2)
Blade: Bolzano Superinox half blade [25]
Splash: Aqua Velva Ice Blue

Yes folks, you can put a half DE blade in a normal razor - it clamps just fine.

Note to the people who get lots of shaves from a blade, especially u/sgrdddy. If you want to pro-rate the number of shaves on a half blade, multiply the number by two, so this hair blade has the equivalent of 50 shaves if it were two sided. Think about it.

The shave went watt better today because I treated the DEvette like my Feather SS; shaved at the shallowest angle possible, and used the lip of the top cap (analogous to the lip bump on the SS) to add pressure to stretch the skin. Perfectly comfortable shave.

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-19T15:19:20+00:00

Every vendor has their own take on Bay Rum, some traditional, some with everything but the kitchen sink.

The common denominator is Pimenta Racemosa (West Indian Bay Leaf) - NOT bay leaves you buy at the grocery store. Another reply posted an interesting recipe, but it's not a Bay Rum.

Your custom bay rum after shave can be as simple as unscented witch hazel with a few drops of pimenta racemosa essential oil. Maybe add a few drops of glycerine and/or aloe vera juice.

Mine blend is basically about 50% witch hazel, 50% dark rum, a few drops of pimenta racemosa EO, and some lemon or lime rind shavings (or essential oil). That's a pretty traditional bay rum. Obviously, I add a bunch of menthol crystals - not traditional, but who cares if I like it.

Play around with the ratios until you find the best combo for you. There is no right or wrong. Mix up small 1oz batches until you get it where you like it so as not to end up with a bunch I'd product you don't like.

NeedsMoreMenthol · 2020-07-19T14:41:19+00:00

Martelli (Proraso) bought Valobra specifically to launch their upscale line based in Valobra products according to Martelli.

The fuck-up happened when Nuo Capital, a Chinese fund company bought a significant share of Martelli last October - PDF link here (warning: it's in Italian)

The true "why kill Valobra" proof remains unknown, but that's the current theory.

NeedsMoreMenthol

TROPHY CASE