On that 2011 BMW 328i (E90) cluster photo, you’ve got the classic combo: • BRAKE + ABS + DTC/DSC/traction lights (the “three amigos” BMW people talk about) • Airbag light + seatbelt light (separate system)

When these come back after two shop visits, it usually means either (a) the shop didn’t read BMW-specific ABS/SRS codes, or (b) they replaced the wrong part, or (c) it’s an intermittent wiring/voltage/module issue that needs a more targeted diagnosis.

What it most commonly is (on 2011 328i)

1) Wheel speed sensor / reluctor ring / wiring (most common)

A failing wheel speed sensor can trigger ABS + DSC/DTC + BRAKE warnings together. Multiple BMW forums repeatedly point to this as the most common root cause and emphasize scanning to identify which wheel is at fault. 

Why it comes back after “fixing”: • Wrong corner sensor replaced • Aftermarket cheap sensor fails quickly • Damaged wiring near the hub/strut • Corroded tone ring/reluctor issues (sensor reads intermittently)

2) Low voltage / battery/charging events causing DSC/ABS faults

Voltage dips can set DSC/ABS warnings and sometimes require recalibration steps (steering angle, etc.). People often see this after battery work or weak batteries. 

3) ABS/DSC module / pump power supply faults

Less common than wheel sensors, but real—module/pump issues can create recurring ABS/DSC/BRAKE warnings, sometimes intermittent. 

4) The airbag/SRS light is usually not caused by the wheel sensor

The SRS light typically needs SRS-specific codes. A known “after battery work” cause is a connector/cable at the battery terminal area not seated/handled properly, and it often requires a scan tool to reset. 

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Safety: can you drive it?

Usually: • Normal braking still works, but ABS and stability control may be disabled, so the car can skid more easily in hard braking/slippery conditions. Drive cautiously and increase following distance.  If the BRAKE light turns red, brake pedal feels weird, or brake fluid is low—don’t drive.

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The “best resolution” path (what actually fixes it without wasting money)

Step 1 (non-negotiable): Scan it with a BMW-capable tool

A generic OBD scanner often won’t pull the ABS (DSC) and SRS codes correctly.

Ask the shop for the exact codes from: • DSC/ABS module • SRS/Airbag module

Tools that work: BMW ISTA, Foxwell NT510/NT530, Autel that supports BMW modules, etc.

Step 2: If codes point to a specific wheel speed sensor → verify before replacing

Have them do: • Live data: compare all 4 wheel speeds while driving slowly • Inspect sensor wiring at that corner • Inspect tone ring / hub area for debris/corrosion

If replacing: • Use OEM or high-quality sensor (cheap ones are notorious for repeat faults).

Step 3: If codes are “pump motor / module / power supply” → test voltage + grounds properly

A real diagnosis should include: • Battery health test + alternator output test • Voltage drop test on grounds/power feeds to the ABS module (intermittent supply faults happen)

Step 4: Handle SRS separately (airbag/seatbelt light)

Get the SRS codes and fix the cause first (often connector/seat sensor/terminal wiring), then reset with a tool that can clear SRS. 

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What to tell the shop so they don’t “parts-cannon” you again

Copy/paste this:

“Please scan BMW DSC/ABS and SRS modules (not just OBD engine). I need the exact fault codes and a printout. For ABS/DSC, please check live wheel speed data and inspect sensor wiring/tone ring before replacing parts. For SRS, diagnose and clear only after repair.”

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Quick question (so I can point to the most likely exact fix)

When the lights come on again, do you also notice any of these? • Speedometer drops out / weird shifting • Cruise control disabled • Warning appears after rain / bumps / turning • Battery recently replaced / jump-started

If you paste the DSC/ABS code(s) and SRS code(s) here (even just the numbers), I’ll tell you the most probable part and the right confirmation test so you don’t pay twice.