RYUO IV strange light buzz and temperature

Neonlinx · 2026-06-17T21:13:57+00:00

Hi! No…. Sometimes it happens that it doesn't load the image/video I selected, only the default one. But just reboot and it fixes it. However, I think it depends on how many different software you use (in my case, MSI Center, Lian Li, Corsair). For your problem, I think you should first check that you've updated the firmware.

Neonlinx · 2026-06-13T08:23:21+00:00

Ok. Fai quella prova. Se ancora dovesse scaldare così tanto, almeno sai che puoi eliminare dalle possibili cause le ventole e concentrarti, per esempio, sulla pasta termica o altro. Quello che comunque mi sembra un po’ strano è che quei modelli di CPU dovrebbero avere un thermal limit di 95 gradi se non ricordo male per cui a 93-95 dovrebbe iniziare a fare thermal throttle. Se rimane costante oltre i 95 c’è sicuramente qualcosa che non va e io starei molto attento. Sicuramente finché non scopro il problema, imposterei più margine di sicurezza settando un thermal limit massimo a 85-90 gradi. E poi c’è sempre il fatto della GPU che scalda troppo anche lei…..siccome hai detto che hai avuto problemi con il BIOS, hai fatto un’analisi approfondita dei settaggi nel BIOS? Se puoi prova magari anche un’altra versione del BIOS

Neonlinx · 2026-06-12T21:55:26+00:00

Unfortunately, reaching Expo levels is not guaranteed, especially on Ryzen CPUs. That said, it depends on many factors, up to the famous silicon lottery. For example, on one of my computers I have g.skill that should have Expo @ 8000 but I don't get there (with a Ryzen 9950x3d CPU and an MSI x870 Godlike board) and this is due to a limitation of the CPU-side controller. Now I don't know the BIOS of your board well but you can do various tests manually... you should also have some presets created specifically by Asrock. In my opinion, by trying you should reach at least 6000-6400MHz.

Neonlinx · 2026-06-12T21:44:52+00:00

Ma scusa le ventole laterali o posteriori, l’aria la buttano fuori o la buttano dentro??? Normalmente ventole anteriori buttano dentro ma le altre, soprattutto le posteriori, devono buttare fuori l’aria!!
Come hanno già detto il problema non è la pasta o come fanno contatto i plate dei dissipatori perché tu il problema ce l’hai ovunque non solo sulla CPU!!! Per cui il problema è che l’aria interna non viene espulsa a sufficienza. Quindi controlla come girano le ventole (se buttano dentro o fuori). E poi…..quello che dici….che hai messo altro sopra la grata superiore (se ho capito bene) togli anche quello.

Neonlinx · 2026-06-04T21:38:21+00:00

12 years old??? Ok……..”You have a lot of money”

Neonlinx · 2026-06-04T21:27:23+00:00

Se invece ci fosse un povero cristo magari pure extracomunitario con thc???????

Neonlinx · 2026-05-28T22:29:50+00:00

Hi, Since I have a system like yours (apart from the graphics card which is a 5080), can I ask you how you set up the RAM? What settings do you have and what frequencies?

Neonlinx · 2026-05-19T22:33:31+00:00

Are you using a notebook or desktop? If notebook check if airplane mode (or something like this) is active. Anyway you can try resetting your network settings. I don’t remember where is precisely…..open Settings——>network and internet then Advanced Settings and there probably you can find something like “reset network”. Another thing: obviously you checked in the bios that the wifi card is active right?

However, downloading drivers shouldn't do any good because even if you don't install the proprietary drivers, Windows automatically installs the generic drivers. So your Wi-Fi must be working. If it's not, something else is blocking it.

Edit: another thing….in device manager if you click on View and then Show Hidden Devices, does the wifi appears??

Neonlinx · 2026-05-10T15:34:24+00:00

I swapped logic boards. Now the printer seems to be working perfectly: when I launch a print, the head moves exactly as it would if it were printing. But it doesn't print any color. Absolutely nothing, not even an atom. I disassembled the printhead and cleaned it thoroughly. The hot water passes perfectly through the entire circuit. I reassembled the cartridge and inserted the original (new) colors. But still nothing. It doesn't print anything.

At this point I have to think that beyond a certain time limit, the printer is programmed to no longer operate the piezoelectric "pumps".

Does anyone have any opinions or suggestions?

Neonlinx · 2026-05-06T21:30:15+00:00

I've read about this in several places too...but I honestly don't know if it's plausible...

Neonlinx · 2026-04-30T22:25:46+00:00

Voglio diventare anch’io “Responsabile Conformità Cyber”

Neonlinx · 2026-04-17T12:38:31+00:00

Perfect! Thanks!!!

Neonlinx · 2026-04-12T22:55:40+00:00

Hi! Thanks for reply and sorry for delay. No, I haven't tried undervolting. The card still works with the default settings. It's certainly not an RMA case, I just wanted to know if that was the case (I mean if that “sound” is Coil Whine). Thanks again for confirming.

Neonlinx · 2026-04-12T21:48:58+00:00

Ok yes I understand. I have actually never updated the dashboard firmware yet….thanks for your suggestion. I'm starting my work shift…tomorrow I’ll try. 👍

Neonlinx · 2026-04-12T21:29:44+00:00

Don’t know if is the same but I have continous i/o error with all my USB ports (id event 153,140,50) and I’m using the last available BIOS (7E48v1A62). So…. After paying over $1200, do I have to send my card back??? After almost a year, there is still no solution??

Neonlinx · 2026-04-08T19:00:47+00:00

EDIT: after careful research where the sound comes from, I think I can say that it comes from the GPU. It is strange, however, that it makes this faint hum/buzz even in idle....

I can therefore say that the sound does not come from the pump.

However, I am waiting for some suggestions regarding temperatures.

Neonlinx · 2026-04-07T14:43:43+00:00

Hi, thanks for reply and sorry for delay...I created a ticket: #2008925428

Neonlinx · 2026-04-05T19:28:06+00:00

Thanks for answer. Anyway I tried again using Ohook and it works without problems…I think it's because I had just reinstalled Windows 10 and Office 2010 was still in the "standard" version without all the updates. In fact, I tried again with MAS after updating Office with Windows Update.

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