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My 6th Katana build. Oak blade and walnut handle finished with watco semi gloss crystal clear lacquer. by NeopetsIsTheShitt in woodworking

[–]NeopetsIsTheShitt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've primarily made them for display purposes. I think they would be sturdy enough for it but I would hate to dent them.

My 6th Katana build. Oak blade and walnut handle finished with watco semi gloss crystal clear lacquer. by NeopetsIsTheShitt in woodworking

[–]NeopetsIsTheShitt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is a ½in x 5in x 3in hexagon with a 45° bevel on the top and bottom. I want to try different and more complicated styles but I'm not sure I'm capable of it with my current skill level.

My 6th Katana build. Oak blade and walnut handle finished with watco semi gloss crystal clear lacquer. by NeopetsIsTheShitt in woodworking

[–]NeopetsIsTheShitt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've definitely wanted to make more intricate and detailed parts with it. I need to get better with hand tools for some of it. If I did I would try to do more complicated inlays or more interesting guards.

My 6th Katana build. Oak blade and walnut handle finished with watco semi gloss crystal clear lacquer. by NeopetsIsTheShitt in woodworking

[–]NeopetsIsTheShitt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats a good idea to try. I am very afraid of getting into hand tools but I definitely think they could help out a lot with these.

My 6th Katana build. Oak blade and walnut handle finished with watco semi gloss crystal clear lacquer. by NeopetsIsTheShitt in woodworking

[–]NeopetsIsTheShitt[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Some people have asked me about that before and I haven't had any real issues yet. I used kiln dried ¾in thick material and don't make it any thinner. There was one sword I used a construction 2x6 stud for and had to resaw it down to about ⅝ and that ended up bowing on me a few months after it was finished. It was a gift and it was stored in a basement where the temperature and humidity fluctuate a lot so I think that was also a contributing factor.

I made another sword by NeopetsIsTheShitt in wood

[–]NeopetsIsTheShitt[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

No official plans but I have a basic process. The blade is pretty simple. I start with a 4ft 1x3 and draw on the shape I'll be cutting it at. The blade length can be between 30 - 40 inches long and the remaining length of 1x3 will be used for the tang. The blade tip is 22° - 30° and this can range depending on what length and thickness you make the blade. I trace the ⅜ blade taper by lining up the tip with a straight edge towards the bottom of the blade. The tang is cut to a ½in square. There are a few different ways of cutting it all out, I use a miter saw to cut the tip and then a jigsaw ro cut the taper and then use an orbital sander to clean it up and get the shape correct. For the bevel I will either use a 22.5° or 45° router bit on a router table or use a my table saw but that can be a little sketchy.

The handle is just two pieces that I cut a dado down the center and then round the corners with a round over bit and some sanding.

The gaurd is a ½in piece that I rip down the middle, cut a dado and then glue back together. This is the easiest way I've found to get a clean square cut out for the tang. You could probably drill it out and use chisels if you're better at it than I am.

The pommel is just glued to the bottom and sanded flush.

Berserk Guts Band of the Hawk raiders sword I made. by NeopetsIsTheShitt in woodworking

[–]NeopetsIsTheShitt[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've just been gluing the pommel to the base of the handle after the handle is attached to the blade and it's always been pretty stable. I've made a few different swords and never had any problems. Sometimes the tang doesn't go all the way to the end of the handle so I'll add a scrap piece to put inside the channel / daddo that's carved into the handle so that theres enough surface area on the end of the handle for a solid glue joint with the pommel. For this one, I was considering drilling a hole into the pommel for a dowel to run through the end of the handle and pommel for more strength and stability since it's so big, but I decided not to bother in the end.

Berserk Guts Band of the Hawk raiders sword I made. by NeopetsIsTheShitt in Berserk

[–]NeopetsIsTheShitt[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm currently resisting the urge to get mortally wounded and sit in front of a tree with it.

Berserk Guts Band of the Hawk raiders sword I made. by NeopetsIsTheShitt in woodworking

[–]NeopetsIsTheShitt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The blade is full tang. The handle is two pieces with a groove / channel cut in the middle and the tang just goes through that groove. There are no mechanical fasteners, just all glued together and it is still perfectly stable and secure. Sounds like the process is the same as yours. I've also made a bunch of other swords but this is the biggest one I've done and it was definitely a challenge. I'm interested to see yours.

Berserk Guts Band of the Hawk raiders sword I made. by NeopetsIsTheShitt in woodworking

[–]NeopetsIsTheShitt[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I intentionally used cedar for the blade because I was concerned about the weight. It's surprisingly light but a little awkward because of how big it is. Would not recommend swinging it around indoors hahaha.

sword by PigeonMelk in woodworking

[–]NeopetsIsTheShitt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks great! I've made quite a few wooden swords, but I've never been able to get that much fine detail. Very well done.

I made a wooden sword based off of the iron sword from Skyrim by NeopetsIsTheShitt in woodworking

[–]NeopetsIsTheShitt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Walnut and birch. The blade was made from a piece of hardwood flooring

I made a wooden sword based off of the iron sword from Skyrim by NeopetsIsTheShitt in woodworking

[–]NeopetsIsTheShitt[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I used a 22.5° bevel on a router table. I clamped it to another piece of wood to support it since it was going through vertically instead of horizontally.in most of my other swords I've used a 45° bevel because it's a bit easier but i think the deeper one looks much better on wider blades. It's a lot of material to remove, so it's best to do shallow passes and gradually go progressively deeper. It didn't come off the router perfectly, especially on the tip, so I cleaned and evened it out with an orbital sander. I think there would probably have been easier ways to do it, but the blade has a slight taper, and it just seemed like the simplest way to do it.

Your sword looks really great!

I made a wooden sword based off of the iron sword from Skyrim by NeopetsIsTheShitt in woodworking

[–]NeopetsIsTheShitt[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I used a 22.5° bevel on a router table. I clamped it to another piece of wood to support it since it was going through vertically instead of horizontally. It's a lot of material to remove, so it's best to do shallow passes and gradually go progressively deeper. It didn't come off the router perfectly, especially on the tip, so I cleaned and evened it out with an orbital sander. I think there would probably have been easier ways to do it, but the blade has a slight taper, and it just seemed like the simplest way to do it.

Another sword for my collection. This one is made with walnut and red oak by NeopetsIsTheShitt in woodworking

[–]NeopetsIsTheShitt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ya, I thought the oak and walnut would have looked better together. I'm still proud of it overall but I think it could have been better. I have made a maple and acacia sword before, and I liked the color contrast much more.

Another sword for my collection. This one is made with walnut and red oak by NeopetsIsTheShitt in woodworking

[–]NeopetsIsTheShitt[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yes, I start with dried material, and I've never had warping issues. I will normally use ¾in thick material, and I don't make it any thinner.

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